Ascents of Black Light having Beta

What a battle! Feels good to finally do it on lead. Crazy to think how far I've come since the first time I tried those thin hands. Still feels pretty stiff for the grade and 23 would probably be more accurate

I wanted to challenge myself today and I came to the right place! What a doozy! The bouldery start is nails and I blew my onsight attempt almsost immediatley as I failed to find any good feet to move up the thin crack right off the deck. My headspace also wasn't in a place where I was ready to commit to trying that hard above small (but good) gear that close to the ground.

After that it was more of a reconnaissance mission to work out the moves and gear for next time. The thin hands section above the slab is just amazing. It's a real battle the whole way with the tight jams feeling absolutely desperate.

Getting the beta diled on a second top rope burn made everything feel alot more sane and I'm looking forward to the next lead attempt. Definitly the stiffest 22 I've tried at Frog.

One year later and still feels pretty hard! Happy to get it clean on second. Keen to lead it next time

Megaaa! What a stunning route, tricky throughout with bombproof finger locks and feet. Heaps of bomber gear, was chilling on a slab a bit before punching up the thin hands crack, absolutely stunning, was a bit slippery but just pulled and jammed harder through it. Beautiful to reach the jugs at the top. Unreal climb! #saynotocrackgloves

Had one bit of pre-placed gear to save the ankles. Happy with this after doing top rope, red point and pink point burns. Realized there were some small face features on the top crack which helped lots

bye bye lumbrical... again. i thought this looked real hard and i was right

Had a two goes at the start

Sat multiple times and pulled up to put gear in down low, felt ok for the first time on lead

hard bouldery start leads to perfect thin hands/finger crack.

Solid onsight attempt, fell on the last hard move out from the ring lock sized bit

Sunny, foot slipped, felt like a mouldy esky. A humbling lesson in when to stop climbing

Very classy climbing. First bits of gear pre placed but placed the rest

Found it much easier than Child in Time although it is the same grade. Need to try to lead next time

Came with the intention of sending in the cool morning light. Done. Still very sweaty in the crux, but I'd rehearsed this climb enough to send in pretty controlled style. As usual, finding all the possible rests for drink breaks..! So happy with my progress this year- from being scared and over protecting to sending this hard 22 after 2 seconds and 3 lead attempts.

Still hard! Found some small feet that helped and managed to climb to the top

So close now. Had my beta wrong at the start, found the right one. Restarted from the stance and finished the lead clean. Big effort but pretty solid. Ready for a send burn!

Seige in progress. Loving projecting this absorbing route! This time led all the moves with a few rests. So pumped by the top though. Gear's great, will use less next time now that I'm more comfortable. Ps, perfect climbing conditions at frog are now after 5pm. There was a cool breeze and the moon smiling down-just magical.

Foot slipped a couple of times at the start of thin jamming, then did the full section with one rest. Feels pretty hard!

Figuring out the gear. First time actually projecting trad on lead, happy with my head space. Still ended up pulling on gear but keen to come back to it one cool morning

Expected to be pulled up, ended up getting it clean without too much grumbling!

Clean through the start, but the thin corner had my number today.

Top 3 climbs ever, epic

Up in the dark after bro's big rp. Incredible line and that section of finger locks! Sublime.

Pumped off, at going through the final roof, then cheesed down the slab

What a beautiful line, hard battle in comparison to the other 22 at 🐸

Wow.

Had to work proper hard for the onsight on this one. I found this the hardest of the classic frog 22’s properly thin hands

Amazing. Had memories of a terrifying belay back when i was a new climber and thought id never touch this beauty again. Stepped up to the belay again and turns out its amazing with some stella gear. Better when in the shade.

Got the send yewww Had to really give it some for the .5 section Will be working more crack endurance this season

Got the send yewww Had to really give it some for the .5 section Will be working more crack endurance this season

Worst attempt yet couldn’t even get past the start need more rest

Still strenuous on second but still so good

Worst attempt then the onsight burn

Fell on the . 5 section again

What a tough climb to onsight Trying to dial in your gear and the moves at the start is tough

Took a fall at the start lowered off reset only to get shut down by the purple section

Will be back the finger crack is really cool

Looking like the anchors on this need to get changed that belay tree up the top is more dangerous then good a lot of loose blocks after the flooding

Trip Report (Ripped Report): Jumped on this pearler with Yimin this morning. Clean run lasted 1m before ground fall number 1 off the first layback.. managed to desperately clip a marginal microcam deciding to punch on to the first ledge. Guess who ripped the cam out and took another ground fall.. This schtickhead. Turned out the spot was perfect for a halfnut (ya weasld me ya baastrrd). Proceeded to quiver up the slab section before getting shut down by the entire thin hands crack.. aided all of it. Punched the bulge free though. Had to drop the tc pros off the top of the climb for yim cos he didnt pack his shoes.

Dogged up a few bits. Tough climb.

Learnt when the locks are not working, layback and commit!

Had done on second a bit over a year ago. Got through the start and weird slab ok, thought it was all over from there. My memory was mistaken, really had to fight through the top half!

Great climb and packs a lot in. Nice bouldery start but not too bad then continuous sweet movement with some nice grippy rock. Now for the 3hr drive home.

First at the frog grade!

Sigh, I finally managed the start and fell off the 0.5 cam section after plugging in a couple, probably a metre before bridging