Routes in East of the access track

A classic introduction to the fine art of hand jamming. A good safe lead if you are new to Frog. Climb the obvious crack to the right of DF, to where the crack ends. Step right and finish easily up the chimney. DRBB.

A good safe introduction to Frog at the grade. Climb the line R of MP past a shallow cave. Tricky moves around this lead to a chimney to the ledge. Most people finish the route at the rap chain on the ledge but you can continue up in the V-groove for another 6m to the top (not as much fun).

Despite the name, this is a good route to learn the basics of crack climbing. TR access can be gained by scrambling up from the left.

Quite hard and technical. Crank up the initial corner, staying in the L of the 2 cracks. From there, a desperate few moves across and right lead to jugs and a widening crack. Easily to the top.

Up the easy corner with good gear to be found. Pause for a moment to ponder the tricky exit move, flop onto the ledge and hoot for joy!

A hardish move onto the ledge (step in from the R) gains a rest. From here blast up the unrelenting twin crack system until your arms and legs wish to explode! Gain a slight rest under a bulge, and then blissfully climb the single crack to the ledge. Take a few 3-4 camalots. Walk L through the cave/chimney to rap off as for BC.

A great warm up climb. Climb the left wall with great hands and pro in the back of the off-width to 10m. Then at roof go out and up using left wall again. Good stance on top of pillar, more good gear and another off-width section to the top of this next section. Use a tree not far back from the top of the route.

Quite good. Varied techniques are required to ascend this fine corner. Up the groove past a tree, then to an awkward constriction. Thrutch up this like a madman, or step onto the R face and skip the difficulties.

A brilliant beginner's lead. Start at the obvious corner 3m R of EP. Up this line on excellent gear to the ledge. Rap chains are found here. Alternatively, you can keep going up the twin crack system at grade 15.

Makes a good second pitch to either of the two preceeding routes. Step warily off the ledge onto the right wall with a crescent moon shaped crack (watch the factor 2 fall off the ledge). Proceed up with much joy, and even more exposure!

Brilliant. A desperate little move out of the cave sees you to a stance. Blast up this to a difficult thin section at half height. Grunt up the top to the ledge. Constantly interesting with bombproof gear all combine to make this route deservedly popular!

A nice jamming session with excellent gear, starting out with hands and finishing with easy off width onto the ledge.

A scene of several serious accidents over the past years. The second route ever climbed at the cliff.

1. An easy hand crack leads to the first of several ledges. Up the line of least resistance to a dark, tight v-groove. Up this with much grunting and difficulty. The gear in the groove is excellent, although it can be problematic to place due to the tight nature of the chimney and the positions you can get yourself into! Gear belay on top of the pillar.

2. Up the beautiful hand crack to a ledge system. Up easily to DBB.

Rap to the ground on two ropes, or stop at the Impulse anchor if required.

Absolute class! This fine sweeping corner is one of the best routes on the cliff. The climb offers magnificent bridging and laybacking, with strenuous thin hand jams and locks just to make your day! Superb protection the whole way settles the nerves... a little!

This is not a well protected route. There have been a number of accidents on it and there are better choices if you are looking for routes of this grade (Electric Lead, Electronic Flag, Devil's Wart) Up the first corner to a ledge. From here, most people step into the middle line under the R edge of a huge chock stone-like flake. Up this with increasing difficulty to rest. Alternatively, you can go up SC for a move or two and step in L. From here, blast up the chock stone filled corner, and then easily to the chains at the tree.

Classic face climbing. The thin seam takes you to a good stance at half height. Up the strenuous corner and airily onto the face. Continue shakily on (mostly) good holds. Poor gear to start and a few further moments of fiddly gear and friable rock. Easily to the top. Rap chain on the ledge.

Short but good. An interesting chimney and jamming problem featuring great protection throughout. A tricky move to exit adds spice to life!

Solid for the grade. Up the steep little corner, then take the left of the 2 grooves from the stance at 1/2 height. Be wary of filthy, loose exit.

Please take note that someone has incorrectly labelled this climb with a P (presumably for Pollux, which is the climb to the left). Great climbing and a fair introduction to the lost art of off-width climbing at the top. The hard move onto the ledge has seen more than one "head jam" attempt, although this is not a requirement of the route!

A tricky start before the first gear up the twin cracks leads to a good rest at half height. Suck in large amounts of oxygen and prepare your already tiring muscles for the onslaught above! Blast straight up the line with fantastic protection and amazing moves the whole way. Balancy moves R to the ledge and rap chains keep the adrenalin flowing! It is possible to link Impulse and Borderline 29, straight up the L of the arete at the same grade.

A classic grunt up a great line with a tree at half height. Quite strenuous and difficult in places, but excellent protection is available throughout. Head R at the top. Originally graded 15! Has been the scene of several serious falls.

A great little climb and a good introduction to sustained bridging. The obvious corner left of Tardis. A hard 1st move gets you to a stance. From there, keep going with constant surprises to the top. Excellent gear throughout.

Used to be grade 14, so it has seen more than its fair share of whimpering and battered beginner leaders. The route is excellent, and well worth a trip. Up the thin, widening crack R of GT. The crack tends to throw you off balance, but plenty of good feet help. Rest at a ledge before continuing directly up the cracks to a V-groove finish and rap anchor behind the top of the pillar.

Absolute class. Step L off the pillar from the top of LLL pitch 1. Step out onto the blank face with quiet desperation and bowel rupturing exposure! Place a high runner in LLL to prevent a factor 2 flass. Up the line and arete in spectacular positions to an easy top out. The climb is up a semi-detached flake system, so placing cams is not recommended...falling on them could be quite exciting.

Simply amazing. A tough start leads to one of the most sustained and awesome climbs imaginable. Take some microcams for the start. The climb itself is a contender for the best route on the cliff, regardless of grade.

Brilliant climbing up an amazing line. A thin and bouldery start leads to a searing corner of unsurpassed quality. Thin hand jams and finger locks lead exhaustingly to a ledge. From there, continue easily to the belay tree.

Done by Coral Bowman (US) in 1976, when it was 21, likely the first female ascent at this grade in AU.

One of the most impressive lines on the cliff. Bridge up the line until the pillar stops. Step into the crack and blast up the ever widening crack. Chock stones and large gear can protect the top body chimney adequately.

Go up the twin edged corner to a stance on the large ledge. From there, strenuous jamming up the left facing corner to another ledge. Then easily to the rap chain.

Great finger locking up a thin seam. A little tricky to protect lay backing, but well worth the trip. Quite technical and strenuous.

Bridge the pillar and crack line up to a good stance. Step R into the crack and up. Brilliant jamming. Go R up the gully to the abseil tree.

A very short twin crack corner to a ledge stance. From there, ramble up the line of best rock and least vegetation.

Brilliant, the way to go if you can climb the grade. Up the finger crack without bridging. Note: There have been several serious accidents on this route due to "perfectly placed" cams ripping out of the crack in the first 10m.

Start up Venom and step R at 3m. Bridge up a slightly overhanging corner crack system to a ledge. Crank hard off the ledge to get up the next hand crack with some difficulty, then to a rest. Easily to the top. Bolt anchor/belay. Used to be graded 15!! Climbed by Rick White and Ian Cameron by aiding the start in Jan 1971.

Disgusting leading up a crappy line to an even more grunty body chimney! Numerous holds and chock stones have fallen out of this route over the years, and the route has been reduced from one of class to that of complete infamy. Belay from MP chains.

Really good. The desperate blank V-groove once had a piton in it, although the "Ethics Police" removed it... 3 times! (It had been climbed for 15 years without need of a piton!) Despite appearances, the groove can be climbed quite safely using friction, prayer and a whole bunch of RP's and micro cams. Flop onto the ledge, whimper and gaze upwards! From here a magnificent corner featuring 3 cracks and classic climbing await you.

The main crack splitting the pillar with a right trending diagonal. The difficulties lie in the first diagonal section, and getting established in the crack. The body crack can be avoided by climbing the face to the left.

Start up SAW, step left and up onto a ledge. From here either scramble off R, or finish up the easy corner of IB. Not very good.

The best line off the ledge. A very smooth corner with some grunty finger locking the key to success. Great gear and movement make this a must do. Rap anchor.

Brilliant! A sustained and somewhat committing climb with a number of technical sequences. Start up EK and step R off the ledge to the FH. Continue up past a second FH and then run it out a long way to a piton under the right side of a tiny rooflet (can be backed up with a green Alien). From there, step left and up the obvious crack to finish.

Named "Forever Young" by Rob when he freed the line... although it had already been named Carrion Comfort by the FA party! A visionary effort by Rob Staszewski, and, for a long time, the hardest route put up by a local climber. Desperate locking and laybacks lead the way up the leaning corner. Great gear can be found, stopping to place it is the trick! Rap anchor. A test piece for any aspiring crack master!

Pretty tough little climb, but well worth it. Up the pillar to the perfect line. Blast up this to a desperate mantle onto the ledge. From there up easily.

This route is so short that it's very hard to justify uncoiling a rope and racking up. If you must, blast up the corner for about 2 moves!

The first route ever climbed at Frog! Good bridging with adequate pro despite appearances. Excellent technical chimney climbing at the top as it narrows to a body crack. It helps to keep all your gear on a sling on your L hip! The first ascent actually skipped the top chimney by going L onto the face.

Probably the toughest 20 at Frog if you can't climb off-widths! Disregard this if you have a foot-long beard and 20-year-old EB boots in your possession. Up the brilliant hand crack to the off-balance, off-width through two bulges. Big cams keep things sane. Really impressive climbing!

Grunt and bridge up the dark corner to the R of PP. From there easily to the chains above PP. The climbing is good, but a little grunty. The gear is really good, but can be awkward and strenuous to place for a novice leader.

Start at the small corner R of Sabrasucker. Bridge up this to a desperate little move onto the ledge. From here motor up one of the best and most pure cracks there is at Frog to the next ledge. It is best to get off here by stepping L through the chimney and rapping off as for Sabrasucker. If you must continue, add 20m, take off all the stars, lose all the enjoyment of the last 20m and thrash up some pretty ordinary climbing to the top.

A great variant start to LLL. Much better moves than LLL but you still wind up in the disgusting V-groove of LLL. Start around the corner 3m R of LLL. Up the line above to join LLL at the base of the groove.

Climb up Blood, Sweat and Tears until the tree. From the tree, step up and R to follow the increasingly difficult line. Excellent climbing featuring one hell of a sting in the tail!

Originally given 26 due to the direct start, however the description above outlines the variation which all (or at least most?) repeats have since utilised. Consensus has settled at 25 for this somewhat pacified version of the line.

Blast up for a few moves then traverse L to a diagonal crack. Strenuous jams that don't quite work as well as you want to provide barrels of fun! The steep hand crack above is superb!

The route up the corner directly above PP. From the ledge you tend to stay in the R crack, and then easily to the top. Semi hanging belay off large tree to R.

The crack 1m R of HDZ. Grunt up this on good gear to a stance and ledge at half height. Continue up the right face (completely unprotected), or alternatively finish up the easy corner system on top of HDZ. Star only applies for the "non-death variant".

Too many ledges, all directly below tricky moves. The climbing is long, confused and absorbing, but the number of hardish moves off ledges make this climb diabolical for someone just leading at the grade. Worth a lap if you're solid at 17.

Tough for the grade! This route at the far L end of the ledge is at you from the first move! Varied crack and face climbing leads up to a final tight V-groove at the top. The trick at the start is deep jamming!

Really good climbing that deserves to be more popular. Follow the crack system to the large ledge. From here, blast up the off-width corner, stopping to wonder how people stay attached to WK! Step R up a face crack, to anchors on ledge (60m rope needed). Multiple pieces of 5 camalot size are essential to do this route safely.

Someone once got their leg stuck in this crack and had to call the SES.

The route immediately R of Theory. Up the finger then hand crack past some wedged flakes then the final offwidth which is sufficiently featured to minimise desperation. Sustained and varied with good climbing despite the section of questionable rock.

Start up the broken rocks to a L facing corner. Up this and then step R onto the ledge. The gear is good, but a little fiddly to place.

Horrible. Looks a lot better than it is. The wide flake and crack to the left of Century.

Really good, but very short. Boulder up the shallow corner on small gear to the ledge. A few moves up the grunty corner take you to the next ledge. Carefully up loose gully to DMEG anchor or a short down climb to some rap trees.

Classic off-width thrashing up a glass smooth overhanging crack line... surprisingly unpopular really! Finish up a finger crack. It is very difficult not to step on or kick your gear out of place on the way up. Football jersey, jeans and knee pads are optional! Climbed by Ted Cais and Ian Thomas with one rest and avoiding the direct finish in July 1973.

Start up LOTF until you can step left to corner formed by the pillar to the left. Up this hoping today is not the day the pillar falls down, then series of cracks above before exiting left out of chossy alcove. Save at least 1 big cam (3 or 4 camalot) for top crack you can't see from ground.

The first half of this climb is quite difficult with a very acrobatic and strenuous crux. Above this is a pretty average crack that steps R around a rooflet. The final crappy groove can be avoided by climbing the L face.

Surprisingly good long pitch. Starts with great finger locking, then steep hands, then funky 3d work around an offwidth to a final thrutch. Take multiple 4 and 5 camalots.

Not the best climb at Frog! Climb the second crack right of Noose to a small ledge. From there go straight up with a desperate mantle to finish. Belay at the small tree.

Brilliant climbing up a very classy line. The grade is 21 if you blast up the side and skip the diabolically thin start of WAIH! From the ledge, motor up the orange-faced corner system on great locks and better pro. At the rooflet, step R around the arete and follow the obvious line to the top. Rope drag can really be an issue on this climb. Twin ropes or long slings recommended.

The first bolted route at Frog! Kim Carrigan promptly skipped the bolt on the second ascent, reclaiming the hardness of Frog from the bolt-clipping infidels! Starts at the small crack 3m L of MPFC (although most parties start from the ledge above). Off-balance moves up the thin diagonal crack to an awkward move into a sentry box to gain a rest. From here, clip the bolt, step R, and blast straight up the face to easier ground.

Bridge and jam up the initial corner (which is still a bit dirty) until it eases in the middle. Head up the chimney and exit left around the chockstones. The protection is fine if you take a 5 camalot. Rap from anchors above CIT.

A long sustained pitch up a striking line from the thin and steep start to old fashioned thrutching up the top third with good rock throughout. Quite a good route to go and beat yourself up on. Either climb down to the Whistling Kite chain or up and across to Blood, Sweat and Tears.

Originally named "Dobrilla" by ML after a friend, a typo in the guide resulted in Debrilla.

An awesome climb featuring strenuous and unique movement to gain the top. Mixed wires and bolt protection lead the way, with a desperate arete slapping technique similar to bear hugging fridges required to gain the jug. Finish at DBB rap anchor at the top of arete.

Not a beginner lead! Start at MP and veer right up the shallow seam. There are good placements to be found, but they are quite small, and a little fiddly. Continue up the face with quiet desperation and dodgy wires until the ledge comes to hand. Step L and finish up MP. The original route started up the thin seam on the R face, and was graded 22.

Some people really like this climb; I don't. Climb the shallow corner 5m R of DR2000 and then follow the line. Fiddly pro and dirty rock add to the experience. Belay either hanging from the tree (desperate but strangely cool), or get onto the ledge R of the tree and belay from there.

Total crap. Straddle and hump the arete immediately R of PP, thrash awkwardly to the ledges. Good if you never ever want to have children!

Complete crap. Overgrown, dirty and downright ugly moves up an even worse looking corner all make this one to put your best mate on!

Desperate and grunty finger locking up a glass smooth corner then continue up to anchor of Fat Mattress. It can be made considerably easier by use of the "secret" foot jamming technique. Buy Rob a beer at the pub for all the info!

The super thin finger crack to the right of DMEG. Short and pumpy, the difficulties are over within a few moves. Rap as for DMEG.

Classic arete climbing. For the original version, go up BL, step out L at the fixed hanger. Blast up the arete past 2 more hangers while your right arm gets the workout of the century! Finish up BL.

A bold lead. Thin, strenous and poorly protected moves feature throughout this route up the face just right of Century. This was graded 17 but if you go directly up the face it's easily 21. Maybe some holds have come off, it's not the best rock, and the gear is very poor. Easily toproped off the chains though.

An amazing, proud, inspirational line. The thinnest of cracks bisects this imposing face. Even the ants at Frog fall off this thin face! There was some controversy over the decidedly French style of the FFA, but no one can question the talent and skill required to ascend such an amazing line. Bolts and small wires can be found.

At the ledge, keep going straight up the scooped arete, as opposed to stepping off R to the tree. Good for a change of scene, but that's about it.

Although top roped by numerous people in the past, it took Matt's vision to actually prepare and lead this amazing route. Named after the 3 Rings for the Elven Kings in Tolkein's masterpiece "The Lord of the Rings". Up a thin line on natural gear to a very tricky step left. Move up steep, thin and unrelenting face climbing past 3 ring bolts. From there, easily up and R to the top of Theory (need big cam).

Not the original, but even better than Hard Nose. Step out L a little lower than the original to a square cut hold on the arete. Clip the carrot bolt and proceed to wobble up 4m of balancy desperation bringing amazing movement and positions to hand.

Classic climbing. Start up Yokomo, and at the ledge take a deep breath, swing out onto the arete and up to a stance and a carrot bolt. The bolt looks to be in the wrong place, but is exactly where you need it! A high runner is possible in Yokomo to stop decking out. From there, fantastic and constantly absorbing climbing leads to the top. RPs are essential at the top.

Quite challenging. A hard start to an off-width crack. From here blast up a pleasant finger crack taking a well-earned rest on a ledge. Jam up to a tree, then climb a fear-inducing face to easy finish.

Absolutely disgusting climbing up the chimney to the R of GN. Many loose boulders, crap moves and thick vegetation all make this an absolute joy on some weird and sick planet.

OK climbing up a steeper than expected line. 2 possible starts both feature poor rock and protection. Coming in from the left up past the hollow flakes and the rooflet or up the grotty corner to step in from the R on good holds. From here, up a crack system basically formed from wedged rocks. Not recommended to lead this.

Start off the pillar below WK. Grunt up the initial off-width with a shaky cam keeping things sane. A line of bolts leads the way up this route with stunning positions and insanely classy movement throughout. The top section is quite run out, and very thin.

With under 10 ascents in 21 years this is definitely a route not to be taken lightly! On one early attempt, Ian Cameron pulled off a 20m lead fall!!! Incredibly thin edging (to the point of requiring levitation abilities) up the steep face split by a micro seam. Micro cams and RPs provide adequate but spacious protection.

Complete crap with a large ledge below very poor pro. If the kamikaze in you must do this, go up the ledges left of WA, and do a layback sequence up the friable flakes to the ledge.

This route no longer exists as it fell to the bottom of the cliff. Description here for historic purposes.

A two-move wonder right off the ledge, but what a hell of a way to start the climb! Desperately thin moves to a stance, sigh of relief and gear, easily up the fist crack to finish. Should be more popular.

Good face climbing but close to MP. A strenuous start up the thin seam just right of PT leads to a good stance. Up shallow corner and arete (crux) to finish up the widening crack. On the FA Kim did it on the gear in the seam, but it's easy - and much more sane - to lean across R and place a cam in MP before the crux.

Gives you faith in the power of friction! Not a bad variant finish to LLL if you have already done 'Borderline 29' a few times! From the top of the same belay ledge/pillar, step into the smooth groove with a very thin crack in the back. Desperate friction bridging leads to a stance. Up the hand crack above to a spicy little sequence through the head wall above.

A lot scarier now that the 1st piton has fallen out. Start up EL, but step R out of the cave, and up to a stance at a bolt (Hanger is missing). Go up to the eerie piton hole (gear possible), and continue up the arete to the second piton. Finish directly up the nose.

Classy climbing unfortunately marred by a ledge at half height. Bridge desperately or layback the thin crack up the dark corner to a ledge. Rest here and then launch up the classy line above. One tricky move sees you to the top. A little weird to protect in places. But the gear is great once you figure it out.

A climb best led on twin ropes. Start up SA for 4m placing a high runner in the corner. A tricky move R around the arete brings a stance and some much awaited protection. Blast up the crack and arete. Good fun.

A revolution goes around and around, constantly smacking you in the face. Well named! A horrible moss-laden chimney at the start is a fair indication of the quality of broken rock and climbing that is to follow.

Why would you do this to yourself? Strap on a chainsaw, gloves and helmet... then thrash for glory up the line of least vegetation and mank to the top of the broken amphitheatre.

The disgusting body chimney R of FM. Destroy your body, grunting up this disgusting excuse for climbing, finish as for FM.

Climb straight up the arete immediately R of EM. One bolt shows the way. Protection can be found by stepping L and putting gear in EM (desperate). Delicate and fun climbing.

Hard to stay out of Noose! Thin climbing up the arete. Up a short crack to the ledge, the piton fell out years ago, luckily small wires provide adequate pro. Tricky moves lead to the fixed hanger. Finish direct up a small corner.

A great second pitch to GN. Starts about 10m R of the Rickety Kate pillar. Desperate moves off the ledge gain the first of 2 bolts. Delicate and technically challenging moves to the top, spacious protection!

A crappy little off-width continues up to an equally dodgy line above. Not very good.