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Table of contents
- 1.
Dome Wall
93 in Crag
- 1.1. Approach boulders 1 in Area
- 1.2. Bang Bang Wall 7 in Area
- 1.3. Spider Terrace 15 in Area
- 1.4. Pagan Paradise Buttress 3 in Cliff
- 1.5. Flight Deck 13 in Area
- 1.6. No Strings Attached Buttress 4 in Cliff
- 1.7. Middle Tier 11 in Area
- 1.8. Brut & Environs 8 in Area
- 1.9. Lower Dome Wall 12 in Cliff
- 1.10. Overkill Area 3 in Area
- 1.11. The King Pin 5 in Feature
- 1.12. Dan's roof 1 in Cliff
- 1.13. Reality Wall 9 in Area
- 2. Index by grade
1. Dome Wall 93 routes in Crag
- Summary:
-
Mostly Trad climbing
Lat / Long: -30.621421, 151.814296
description
Dome Wall has been Armidale’s premier climbing area for a number of years now. It offers some of New England’s best and most popular routes as well as a generous sprinkling of harder routes.
access issues
Access to Dome Wall or Persian Carpets involves driving through private property to reach the Gara Gorge. Contact must be made with the landowners prior to heading out there:
Mike Coffey (Kenwood Park): 02 6775 3766
Pete and Susanne or Jeff Moore: 02 6775 3727
It is important to let the Coffeys know you’re coming (as access is very close to their house), and ask the Moores for permission to cross their land (providing the most efficient access to Dome Wall or Persian Carpets).
Good relations with these landowners are essential for New England climbers, and all visitors in the future, to access these excellent crags, so please treat them with respect. Leave all gates as you find them, cross fences at the strongest strainer post, etc etc. Access is likely to be refused if tenants are in the Moores’ ‘holiday’ house, so please be patient or better still ask about staying there yourself.
This is a link to a file you can use in Google Earth to see a map to The Dome Wall Parking area:
http://dl.dropbox.com/u/24251869/Dome%20Wall%20Etc%20Access.kmz
approach
Like many of the cliffs in the Gara gorge it is better if you can find a local to take you there for the first time. If you haven’t been there before, your best bet is to contact the University of New England Outdoor Adventure Club: www.une.edu.au/unemc However, you should be able to find the cliff yourself with these instructions. Dome Wall is on a prominent protrusion into the gorge to the right (facing gorge) of a relatively major creek’s entry to the gorge. Grid reference 863 116 on topographic map “Armidale” sheet 9236.
Take the Dorrigo road out of Armidale for about 1km them a sign posted right turn onto the Blue Hole/Gara road. Follow this for about l0km to another right turn (just before Blue Hole road turns to gravel) onto a gravel road (signposted ‘Castledoyle Road’). The road goes through a creek crossing, veers left (the house on the hill to the right is the Moores’) and then comes to the big brick gates of Kenwood Park (Coffeys’ property). Reset the odometer here.
Turn right to follow the road (public access road) rather than going through the gates. At 0.5kms the road more or less ends – turn left through a gate (you are now on the Moores’ property) and continue in this direction, ignoring the better defined track you cross.
At 1.3kms, gate (after a short section between two fences). At 2.0kms, two gates. Take the left gate and follow the faint track. At 2.7kms you will pass a newish (ie 90’s) ‘holiday’ house – continue down track. At 3.2kms track ends – park.
Walk about half way down the gully to your left, and then head off to your right up the hill towards the gorge rim. At the top of the hill head around rightwards for a couple of hundred metres before dropping down the hill to the top of the cliff. The lookout area on top is right behind a huge pillar of rock called the dome and is an obviously well worn area. Total walking time is about 5-10 minutes.
history
The first visit to Dome Wall by climbers was in 1976, when Richard Curtis and Bob Rugo (a visitor from USA) split from an expedition to Colony wall that found itself on the wrong side of the gorge. They did the first route there that day: ‘Bunker Hill’ 16. No one was to visit the area again until Joe Friend came to town. In 1978 Joe did a few routes here with Brian Birchall and Phil Prior, the most notable being the classic ‘Face Value’ 17 and ‘Diabolique’ 20. Despite ‘Diabolique’ being one of New England’s hardest climbs, Dome Wall was just another cliff. In those days there were many cliffs awaiting first visits in the Gara Gorge, and others such as the Three Sisters which seemed to offer more potential so Dome wall had to wait another couple of years before any significant development would take place.
When interest returned to Dome Wall in 1980, of the climbers to have visited Dome Wall earlier, only Brian Birchall remained and he couldn’t remember how to get there. Some of the attempts to find it led to the discovery of Split Rock and Sweetheart’s Buttress. The latter was to occupy a lot of N.E. climbers’ time in 1980 and so it wasn’t until early 1981 that concerted efforts to rediscover Dome Wall were made again. It was a rather persistent Brian Birchall, along with Al Stephens and Mark Colyvan who eventually stumbled onto it again and proceeded to waste most of the day attempting a roof right of ‘Dogmatic Demise’ which was later to become ‘Prime Time’ 23 (this route was to occupy a lot of Colyvan’s time in the coming months). They did however manage to do ‘Aisle of Deceit’ 20 before leaving. After a few more visits by various people the potential at Dome Wall was being realised and the word spread quickly. The race was on; everyone wanted to get out to Dome Wall and get their names in the forthcoming New England guide book.
During the early months of 1981 Rob Clark, Brian Birchall, and Al Stephens in various combinations were the main activists since all three had summer holidays. Some of the many routes done during this period include ‘Working Class Heroes’ 18, ‘Rise of the Bourgeiosie’ 19, ‘Master Blaster’ 18, ‘Ambrosia’ 19, and the rediscovered ‘Brut’ 17. This was the start of Dome Wall’s domination of the Armidale climbing scene, a golden age, if you like. However, after the initial wave of routes in the 17-20 grade range were completed, the next set of obvious lines were to present more difficulty, since 20 was some what of a ceiling limit for Armidale’s climbers. During the next transitory phase attempts were made at ‘Pagan Paradise’ 21 and ‘Curtain Call’ 21 and routes such as ‘Bang Bang’ 20M0 and ’Autumnal Beauty’ 19M1 were done by Stephens. It was obvious that New England climbers would need to improve a bit before they would be able to free such routes.
After an extended climbing holiday Mark Colyvan returned to Armidale climbing a little better than when he left, but more to the point he was prepared to siege the fuck out of things if necessary (and it frequently was!). This next period of development saw routes such as ‘Bang Bang’ 21 and ‘Autumnal Beauty’ 20 freed as well as first ascents of Pagan Paradise’ 21 ‘Curtain Call’ 21 and finally ‘Prime Time’ 23 which was at the time New England’s hardest climb. Paul Bayne teamed up with Colyvan for many of these routes.
In early 1982 John Lattanzio (alias Jack the Slack) returned to the area and was determined not to miss out on the new routing spree at Dome Wall which seemed to have finished. Lattanzio, however managed quite a few new routes the best of which were the classic ‘Corridors of Power’ 16 and Labour Force’ 21, a hard finger crack at which Jack was a specialist. Since then development has slowed down but quality new routes continue to appear.
In June 1982 a Greg Pritchard conceived a slab route right of ‘Bang Bang’ was bolted and brushed by Colyvan giving ‘That’s Entertainment’ 23M1 (24 when freed a year later by Giles Bradbury) which became quite a test piece for a while and was the first route at Dome Wall to make use of bolt protection and offer slab/face climbing. Paul Bayne really hit form around this time making significant inroads in freeing ‘That’s Entertainment’ and adding ‘Running on Empty’ 23M1 which when freed a month or so later by he and Colyvan was New England’s hardest route and second 24 (only one day after the first 24 was completed at Ebor). Later that year Bayne added a couple more good routes such as ‘The Gremlin’ 21 (with Croft and Stephens) and ‘Overkill’ 19 (with Colyvan).
In 1983 a few more good routes appeared. Colyvan returned to do ‘Post Modern’ 21 in January and later that year Bayne added ‘Tipsy’ 21 and ‘Severance Pay’ 20 and Stephens did the classic ‘Jackhammer Blues’ 19.
1984 was a pretty quiet time at Dome Wall, the only significant new route being ‘Footprints on the Dashboard’ 22 by Stephens which ironically was looked at by many others and had been proclaimed impossible at reasonable grades. It became an instant classic.
In 1985 Russell Chudleigh (Chunder), John (Jack) Lattanzio and Tim Ball (Tadpole), amongst others, spent several months camped out between Dome Wall and The Pagoda at ‘Camp Pog’. Armed with the new friction boots, ‘fires’, and not afraid of a bit of bolting they managed many new routes mostly on The Pagoda and Persian Carpets. However they drifted over to Dome Wall occasionally where they did ‘Valium Vision’ 21 (Jack), and ‘First Aid for Budding Pimples’ 22 (Tadpole).
In 1986 Jack Lattanzio returned to Armidale to live and did ‘Built in Obsolescence’ 20 on lower Dome Wall and ‘Casa Nostra’ 22 left of ‘Bunker Hill’. Colyvan added ‘Crawling from the Wreckage’ 23 up the ‘Bang Bang’ wall introducing the new Petzl bolting technology to New England.
The latest little bout of new routes was in May 1987, when visits by Mark Colyvan, Paul Colyvan and Mike Law coincided to produce a few quality new routes, the best of which are ‘Backlash’ 24 (M. Colyvan), ‘Pace Fainting’ 22 (P. Colyvan) and the audacious ‘Fuck Knows’ 23 (Law) up the left arête of the Dome which is one of the hardest routes in New England.
Since then new routes have appeared rather infrequently, although those that have been done have generally been of high quality. In 1988 Mark Colyvan did ‘Down for the Count’ 23 and the following year he bolted and climbed one of the best routes in New England: ‘Sweet Dreams’ 24. In 1990 Gavin Dean and Al Stephens added the classic ‘Between the Sheets’ 23 (Dean) and ‘Under the Covers’ 21 (Stephens). Early in 1992 Stephens added ‘Stage Fright’ 21 and Colyvan added the exposed ‘Black Intention’ 22 to the right of ‘Sweet Dreams’.
I’m sure new routes will continue to appear at Dome Wall but l’ll be surprised if there is anything like the boom time of 1981- 82 again. So you can be sure that most of the best routes are contained in this guide, especially up to about grade 23.
Mark Colyvan 1/6/87, updated Feb 1992
| Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| 14 |
Aggripina
Details unknown, mentioned in 'Screamer' issue 9, 1981 FA: Clark & Brian Birchall, 1981 | 17 | ||||||
    |
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1.1. Approach boulders 1 route in Area
- Summary:
-
All Trad climbing
| Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| 1 |
While Jack Pikes
Start: On a small outcrop/bunch of boulders, above and downstream of Dome Wall. Start just left of the large roof. Up groove to roof then up left onto lodge then up crack to top. FA: Paul Bayne & Mary Roulston, 1982 | 16 | 25m | |||
1.2. Bang Bang Wall 7 routes in Area
- Summary:
-
All Trad climbing
Lat / Long: -30.621528, 151.814216
approach
This area is reached by walking down the downstream descent gully, which is on your right as you look out into the gorge from the top of the cliff.
 |
||||||||
| Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| 1 |
Billericay Dickie
‘‘I’m no thickie” Start: Below the obvious orange roof on the right side of the descent gully, as you walk down. Up to cave, bridge to surmount roof, then strenuous jamming to top. FA: Rob Clark & Brian Birchall, 1981 | 19 | 20m | |||||
| 2 |
★★★ Bang Bang
A classic. Start: Opposite ‘Billericay Dickie’ on the left side of the gully (as you walk down) are some slabs facing out into the gorge. Start at the base of the obvious crack on the left side of the slab. Originally 20 M1 with a couple of points of aid, this was progressively whittled away by Stephens, then Bayne then eventually freed’ by M. Colyvan and E. Sharp I8/6/H Up crack to where it thins down and goes diagonally rightwards, follow crack into gully and rap off chains atop of 'That’s Entertainment'. Al Stephens FFA: Mark Colyvan & Ed Sharpe, 1983 FA: Al Stephens, Ed Sharpe & Mark Colyvan, 1983 | 21 | 30m | |||||
| 3 |
★★ Crawling From the Wreckage
Interesting and well protected climbing up the ‘Bang Bang’ wall. start: About 3m right of ‘Bang Bang’. Up onto large blocks to clip the first bolt, then step right onto the slab, up and past another bolt to the crack of ‘Bang Bang’. Cross this and head straight up the wall past 2 more bolts to the top. Belay/rap chains in place. FA: Mark Colyvan, John Lattanzio & Anthony Brennan, 1986 | 23 | 30m, 4 | |||||
| 4 |
★★ Thats Entertainment
Originally had two points of aid, the first being the second bolt. The aid was almost eliminated by Paul Bayne and was eventually freed by Giles Bradbury May 1983. It is now one of New England’s it most popular hard free routes. Start: Sm right of ‘Bang Bang’ at rightward trending groove. Follow groove right, then back left past bolt runner into corner, up to second bolt and on to ledge and belay/rap chain. Note that both bolts are usually clipped with wires first these days. FA: Brian Birchall, John Lattanzio, Paul Bayne & Mark Colyvan, 1982 | 24 | 30m, 2 | |||||
| 5 |
★ Teenage Wildlife
UNKNOWN? Not in orignal guide | 15 | 25m | |||||
| 6 |
The Gates of Moria
This poor excuse for a climb should be cemented up... actually it’s probably a good route for visiting Queenslanders to do. Start: About 10m right of ‘That’s Entertainment’ below big ugly 3 chimney.
FA: Chris Dale & Paul Bayne, 1998 | 23 | 45m, 3 | |||||
| 7 |
★★ The Gremlin
A classic although is best to rap in from the top to avoid the horrid chimney leading up to it. Rap into semi-hanging belay from chain on top. Start: as for ‘The Gates of Moria’
FA: Greg Croft, Paul Bayne & Al Stephens, 1982 | 21 | 37m, 2 | |||||
1.3. Spider Terrace 15 routes in Area
- Summary:
-
Trad climbing and Rock climbing
Lat / Long: -30.621213, 151.814197
approach
This area is reached by either abseiling down from the trees on top of the cliff (by the lookout area) or scrambling around right from the bottom of ‘The Gates of Moria’ gully. Inexperienced climbers and beginners are advised to use roped protection for the step across from the gully to the short chimney, as the soil in the gully has become quite unstable at that point, and a slip would have serious consequences.
| Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| 1 | Spider terrace approach | |||||||
| 2 |
★★ Down for the Count
Start: Rap into the ledge halfway up ‘The Gates of Moria’ from the chains on top of ‘The Gremlin’ buttress. The climb starts from this ledge and goes up the right wall of the gully. Clip the bolt then an awkward move to start to pull across onto the wall. Move right and up to a second bolt then up to the small roof and around this past a third bolt, then follow the rightward trending seam up past another bolt to the arête. Easily to top. Chain belay plus a bolt down lower where the climb meets the arête. FA: Mark Colyvan & Tim (Tadpole) Ball, 1998 | 23 | 25m, 4 | |||||
Left sideThis area is reached by either abseiling down from the trees on top of the cliff (by the lookout area) or scrambling around right from the bottom of ‘The Gates of Moria’ gully. Though not technically difficult, roped protection is advised for beginners and inexperienced climbers for the sketchy step from the gully into the short chimney, as the bottom of the gully has become quite unstable. | ||||||||
| 4 |
Super Route
3m left of Working Class Heroes up vertical crack and through shrubbery. Then continue up tiny tips crack. 1982 is complete guess for FA Set: Mark Colyvan, John Lattanzio & Richard Curtis, 1982 | |||||||
| 5 |
★★★ Working Class Heroes
A Classic looking crack. Start: The obvious diagonal crack line on the left hand side of the terrace.
FFA: Al Stephens, P. Clark & Brian Birchall, 1981 | 18 | 36m, 2 | |||||
| 6 |
★★ Fellatio by Tonto
Start: from the sentry box atop of pitch one of ‘Working Class Heroes’. From the sentry box belay step left onto the wall and crack. A hard crank right, then back left overcomes the blank section. FA: Russell (Chunder) Chudliegh & Tim (Tadpole) Ball, 1985 | 23 | 12m | |||||
| 7 |
Prehistoric Sounds
A real grunt! Start: The chimney to the right of ’Working Class Heroes’. Scramble up gully to above tree and good ledge. Follow crack up left wall of chimney FA: Mark Colyvan & Paul Bayne, 1981 | 14 | 23m | |||||
| 8 |
Conditional Discharge
Start: As for ‘Prehistoric Sounds’ to ledge above tree. Follow the off-width crack on the right up through a bulge and then more easily on to top. FA: Mark Colyvan & Al Stephens, 1981 | 18 | 20m | |||||
Right sideTo the right is a sketchy step around to get to the right side of the Spider Terrace. | ||||||||
| 10 |
★★★ Post Modern
A rather attractive wall. Double ropes useful. Start: About 3m left of ‘Rise of the Bourgeoisie’. Up slab to ledge then straight up wail above past bolt, then head diagonally right over easier ground, then up to a second bolt up and slightly left past two more bolts then run it out a little straight up the slab above. Easily up exit crack. FA: Mark Colyvan & Brian Birchall, 1983 | 21 | 20m, 4 | |||||
| 11 |
★★ Rise of the Bourgeoisie
Start: On the right hand end of the terrace
FA: Rob Clark, Al Stephens & Brian Birchall, 1981 | 19 | 25m, 2 | |||||
| 12 |
Corridors of Power
Start: As for ‘Rise of the Bourgeoisie’.
FFA: John Lattanzio & Brian Birchall, 1982 | 16 | 30m, 3 | |||||
| 13 |
★★ Labour Force
Start: As for 'Rise of the Bourgeoisie'
FFA: John Lattanzio & Brian Birchall, 1982 | 21 | 25m, 3 | |||||
| 14 |
Tuggin Mutton
A hard bouldery short route. Start: From the top abseil down to the base of the chimney between the dome and the main cliff (on the left side). It is the steep slab just left of the chimney. Up slab past two bolts FA: Paul Colyvan & Mark Colyvan, 1987 | 24 | 12m, 2 | |||||
| 15 |
★★ Fuck Knows
A superb line up the left arête of the dome, giving sustained hard climbing. Start: At the base of the dome on the left side. Either Abseil in or do 'Labour Force'. Up the left aide of the arête past a bolt runner then swing around right and up past three more bolts to top with another bolt at top. Tie off trees on mainland for anchor. FA: Mikl Law, Paul Colyvan & Mark Colyvan, 1987 | 26 | 20m, 5 | |||||
| 16 |
★★★ Severence Pay
The arête between 'Corridors of Power' and ‘Bunker Hill’. Start: On the right hand end of the ledge atop pitch 1 of ‘Labour Force’. Step right off big block onto wall past bolt runner; up and across right to arête which is followed past 2 more bolts to top. FA: Paul Bayne & Paul Colyvan, 1983 | 21 | 20m, 3 | |||||
| 17 | S | |||||||
          |
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1.4. Pagan Paradise Buttress 3 routes in Cliff
- Summary:
-
All Trad climbing
Lat / Long: -30.621798, 151.814439
description
The little orange buttress down hill from 'Billericay Dickie'.
| Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| 1 |
★★ Pagan Paradise
Start; The left hand crack on the little orange buttress down hill from ‘Billericay Dickie’. Up crack, through roof to top FA: Mark Colyvan, 1981 | 21 | 15m | |||
| 2 |
I'm Laughing
A waste of a good bolt. Start: Around left from ‘Pagan Paradise’ below a vague line a small roof. Up through some crumbly yellow stuff to a bolt runner, through the small roof and up the wall above. FA: Mark Colyvan & Paul Colyvan, 1983 | 22 | 15m, 1 | |||
| 3 |
Penny Short of a Pound
Hardly worth the effort. Start: Left of ‘Pagan Paradise’ and about 2m right of 'I'm Laughin’ Up thin crack to ledge, clip bolt runner then a hard move out left to the arête. Continue up arête past another bolt runner to top. FA: Mark Colyvan & Paul Colyvan, 1983 | 23 | 15m, 2 | |||
1.5. Flight Deck 13 routes in Area
- Summary:
-
All Trad climbing
Lat / Long: -30.620948, 151.814162
description
This is the large terrace that runs beneath the upper level of cliff line and although can be reached from either the upstream or downstream decent gullies, it is most easily reached by the upstream decent gully, or else abseiling in to the route you want to do.
The upstream decent gully is located about 15m left of the main lookout area at the top of the cliff, as you face out into the gorge. Follow this down and around right below the first small cliff and you are at the right hand end of the Flight Peck. Routes are described right to left.
| Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| 1 |
★ Prime Time
Start: At the bottom of the V-chimney below the obvious roof about Om right of Dogmatic Demise’ on the extreme right hand end of the flight deck. Up V-chimney, step left under roof, then follow crack through roof to top. FA: Mark Colyvan & Brian Birchall, 1981 | 23 | 15m | |||
| 2 |
★ Dogmatic Demise
Start: The second crack along with a shark—edge finish. Up fist crack to ledge on right. Then either directly up fine cracked corner (17) or off-width / fist crack (crux) to roof and exit on left. FA: Joe Friend, Brian Birchall & Phil Prior, 1978 | 16 | 25m | |||
| 3 |
★ Diabolique
Start: The third crack along, right of ‘Dogmatic Demise’. Up crack to top, coloured twin cracks (alternative finishes). FA: Joe Friend, Brian Birchall & Phil Prior, 1978 | 20 | 25m | |||
| 4 |
★★ First Aid for Budding Pimples
Start: 10m right of ‘Running on Empty’ on the ledge below the obvious sickle shaped crack. Move left along ramp, up wall to crack, up this and more wall to top FA: Tim (Tadpole) Ball & Russell (Chunder) Chudleigh, 1985 | 22 | 25m | |||
| 5 |
★ Running on Empty
Very sustained and hard crack climbing (mostly). Originally aid through the first roof then a couple of rests up higher but was freed on it’s second ascent by Bayne and Colyvan with a bit of yo-yoing on 1/8/82, Start: To the right of ‘Charisma’. Through fists roof, up crack through second roof, up overhanging rightward trending crack past fixed wire then up wall to top. FA: Paul Bayne, 1982 | 24 | 25m | |||
| 6 |
Charisma
Can you believe it, a really enjoyable off-width roof? Start: below obvious leftward under-cling roof, left of 'Running on Empty' Around roof then follow off-width and squeeze chimney to top. FA: Paul Bayne & Greg Croft, 1982 | 20 | 35m | |||
| 7 |
★ The Mosaic
Start: Abseil from marked tree 15m north of top of Dome wall down to ledge atop of 'Charisma' Up the wall past 2 bolts to tricky exit up faint groove at the bead of wall, continue up slab to top. FA: Chris Dale & John Lattanzio, 1983 | 20 | 20m, 2 | |||
| 8 |
★★ Aisle of Deceit
Technical and sustained second pitch. Start: About 10m left of ‘Charisma’
FA: Al Stephens, Brian Birchall & Mark Colyvan, 1981 | 20 | 32m, 2 | |||
| 9 |
★★ Pregnant Paws
Start: The obvious hand/fist crack with a small roof just to the left of ‘Aisle of Deceit’
FA: Al Stephens & Brian Birchall, 1981 | 17 | 30m, 2 | |||
| 10 |
Drunk and Disorderly
Start: At the base of the hand crack 2m left of ‘Pregnant Paws’ Rightward trending crack to small ledge, then straight up large ledge and tree belay Finish up 'Tipsy' or 'Bunker Hill' FA: Brian Birchall & John Lattanzio, 1982 | 18 | 15m | |||
| 11 |
★★ Tipsy
On the ledge above ‘Drunk and Disorderly’, 3m right of the final bit of ‘Bunker hill’. Up thin crack in the face then wall and slab to top with a bolt runner shortly after crack ends. FA: Paul Bayne & Brian Birchall, 1983 | 21 | 15m | |||
| 12 |
★ Bunker Hill
Historic, being the first climb on this cliff. (At the time the prevailing ethic was that a 'legitimate' climb had to start at the bottom of the cliff and finish at the top.) Contrary to the guide, the first pitch is well worth doing and is the equal crux. Exciting for a leader at that grade, but makes the climb very escapable. - Not one for sport climbers or those of a delicate disposition. Second pitch is a 'walk' and pitch 3 is a struggle. Approach: If skipping the first pitch start pitch 2 from the Flight Deck. Otherwise - towards the lowest part of the centre of the crag look for a 'cave-like overhang'.
FA: Bob Rugo (1), Richard Curtis (2 & 3), 1976 | 16 | 52m, 3 | |||
| 13 |
★★ Casa Nostra
A Mafia inspired enterprise by ‘Don’ Jack. Start: On the ledge next to the start of ‘Tipsy’. Abseil in or get to the start via ‘Drunk and Disorderly’ or 'Pregnant Paws’. Start up pitch three of 'Bunker Hill' for 2m then move left past bolt into the obvious overhanging Corner. Up corner to join 'Severence Pay' arête. Up this past 2 bolts to top. FA: John Lattanzio, Al Stephens & Richard Thomas, 1986 | 22 | 25m, 2 | |||
1.6. No Strings Attached Buttress 4 routes in Cliff
- Summary:
-
All Trad climbing
description
This small buttress is located below the top cliff line and is reached by walking down the downstream decent gully right down a towards ‘Pagan Paradise’, then follow the ramp/terrace further down diagonally left (as you face the gorge) below a chossy vegetated small cliff. Towards the bottom of the ramp on your left is a cliff of better quality; this is No Strings Attached buttress.
| Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| 1 |
Swinger
Start: Up and left of ‘No Strings Attached’. Scramble across into corner, hand traverse under roof, around roof and up to top. FA: Paul Bayne & Al Stephens, 1981 | 18 | 12m | |||
| 2 |
No Strings Attached
Start: Below crack with a large tree growing in it. Up crack until it expires then step right onto ledge, up short slab to roof then step right again to another ledge. Up corner crack to finish. FA: Brian Birchall, Mark Colyvan & Ed Sharpe, 1981 | 18 | 30m | |||
| 3 |
Petrified Forest
Start: 1-2m to the right of ‘No Strings Attached’. Easily up through blocks to tree; pleasant climbing through small roof to top. FA: Brian Birchall & Ed Sharpe, 1989 | 16 | 20m | |||
| 4 |
Petit Fleur
A classic short jam crack Start: right of ‘No Strings Attached’. Small roof and then crack to finish. FA: Rob Clark & Al Stephens, 1981 | 16 | 10m | |||
1.7. Middle Tier 11 routes in Area
- Summary:
-
All Trad climbing
approach
This area is reached by walking down to the ‘No strings Attached’ area and abseiling from an obvious tree leaning out over a lower cliff line. This is in fact the lowest point of the ramp leading down here. The corner just to the right of the abseil is ‘Autumnal Beauty’. A quick scramble down and around to your right (as you face out into the gorge) past a set or chains brings you ‘La Cucaracha’.
 |
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| Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| 1 |
★★ Footprints on the Dashboard
An excellent climb with good protection, although it can be a little awkward to place. Start: A thin crack in the wall 5m right of ‘Autumnal Beauty’. Up past the bolt at 4m to a small ledge. Continue straight up the crack to just below the small tree. Traverse off left to the abseil tree. FA: Al Stephens & Simon Gay, 1984 | 22 | 25m, 1 | |||||
| 2 |
★★ Autumnal Beauty - direct start
Start: directly beneath the corner. Directly up to the crux of ‘Autumnal Beauty’. FA: Ed Sharpe & Brian Birchall, 1981 | 20 | 10m | |||||
| 3 |
Autumnal Beauty – variant
Step right below the roof and up to top. FA: Ed Sharpe & Brian Birchall, 1981 | 20 | 10m | |||||
| 4 |
★★★ Autumnal Beauty
A superb route originally done with a couple of points of aid below the roof, these were freed by M. Colyvan and P. Payne 2/8/81 Probably best done with the direct start. Start: Just right of the abseil down, below a crack just left of the obvious corner. Another variant: Step right below the roof and up to top. FA: Mark Colyvan & Paul Bayne, 1981 | 20 | 25m | |||||
| 5 |
Gringo
Start: The same direct start as ‘Staggerlee’ added by the Killips. Up offwidth chimney to ledge then straight up offwidth to crack going straight up to top. FA: Mark Colyvan, Brian Birchall & Ed Sharpe, 1981 | 16 | 20m | |||||
| 6 |
Staggerlee
This route originally started by scrambling up to the first ledge; however Bob and Astrud Killip added the direct start in April 1981. Start: Just left of chains. Up offwidth chimney to ledge, continue up offwidth then swing left onto ledge. Up easy hand and fist crack to top. FA: Brian Birchall, Geoff Francis & Pod KcClyrnont, 1978 | 16 | 25m | |||||
| 7 |
★ Sunday School
Start: Around to the right of the the base of La Cucaracha. (On the upstream side of the buttress). Up thin cracks to join ‘La Cucaracha’ near the top, continue up crack. FA: Paul Bayne & Mary Roulston, 1982 | 18 | 30m | |||||
| 8 |
★★ La Cucaracha
A classic, intriguing and varied Start: The crack/corner (leftward facing) around left from the chains atop of ‘Backlash’. A thin crack, then a short chimney, out over a bulge, then a long traverse right and up easy crack to finish. FA: Ed Sharpe, Mike Peck & Al Stephens, 1981 | 15 | 40m | |||||
| 9 |
★★ Sunday Driver Discord
Starts at either JB or LC depending on your fancy. Unlike the first ascensionists it's best to break this route into two pitches to avoid rope drag and snagging ropes under sharp flakes.
FA: Ben Vincent, Richard Curtis & carol lee, 4 Jun 2017 | 17 | 45m, 2 | |||||
| 10 |
★★ Jackhammer Blues
An absolute joy. Start: As for ‘Eat it G-Man’. Up the slab past two bolts, over a bulge, then up the open corner past another bolt to a short slab to finish. FA: Al Stephens, Greg Croft & Paul Colyvan, 1983 | 19 | 40m, 3 | |||||
| 11 |
★ Eat it G Man
A fall from the slab could be serious. Start: 2m left of ‘La Cucaracha’ at a tree. Up the first short slab heading slightly left to the ledge, then straight up the slab past a bolt runner to an overlap. Move left here and then pull up onto wall and continue up past 2 bolts to top. FA: Paul Colyvan & Mark Colyvan, 1987 | 22 | 40m, 3 | |||||
1.8. Brut & Environs 8 routes in Area
- Summary:
-
All Trad climbing
approach
This area is on a lower level still and is reached by abseiling from the chain atop of ‘Backlash’ which is just right of the start of ‘Staggerlee’.
| Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| 1 |
★ Agrippina
Start: About 12m to the left of ‘Brut’, the obvious flake crack. Up flake crack, swing right when crack runs out; slab climbing to terrace. FA: Rob Clark & Brian Birchall, 1981 | 17 | 25m | |||
| 2 |
★★ Pace Fainting
Start: About half way between ‘Agrippina’ and ‘Brut’. Straight up wall which steepens at the top past four bolts, moving off left or’ the slab at the top. FA: Paul Colyvan & Mark Colyvan, 1987 | 22 | 25m, 4 | |||
| 3 |
★★★ Brut / Jill's Climb
Pertaining to champagne of high quality, not the nasty animal. Start: The fine layaway crack left of ‘Bleat’ and 'Ambrosia'. (not the horrible offwidth). Fine jamming and layaways to top. This route was first climbed by Jill Kelman and Richard Curtis in 1976 but was not recorded because the prevailing ethic locally at the time was that a climb had to ascend the cliff from bottom to top to be a legitimate ascent. As Jill subsequently died in a European mountaineering accident I suggest that the climb be called Jill's Climb as it was a fine lead for the time. I mentioned this to Brian while he was still with us and the idea was received favourably. FA: Rob Clark & Brian Birchall, 1981 | 17 | 25m | |||
| 4 |
★ Peck Order
Start: As for ‘Bleat’. Up as for ‘Bleat’, right past tooth, then traverse past off-width of ‘Blurt’ and further right to hand crack to top. FA: Fred Frome & Kevin Pearl, 1982 | 19 | 40m | |||
| 5 |
Blurt
The line ‘Bleat’ should have been. Start: As for ‘Bleat’. Up diagonal crack as for ‘Bleat’, then right around spike and through tree and up off-width to top, with little protection. FA: Paul Bayne & Paul Colyvan, 1982 | 20 | 25m | |||
| 6 |
★ Bleat
Some aid rests on the first ascent were eliminated by M. Colyvan, B. Birchall and B. Sharp 15/3/81 Start: The obvious rightward leaning off-width. Up crack to large spike, then swing left and finish up the final section of 'Brut'. FA: Al Stephens & P. Clark, 1981 | 20 | 23m | |||
| 7 |
★★★ Backlash
Classic thin face climbing. Start: About two metres left of ‘Ambrosia’. Clip fixed wire with a stick then over bouldery start to the finger crack. Up this to a bolt then continue up wall past another bolt to a third bolt. Move left and up to a fourth bolt, then left and up again to chain on top. FA: Mark Colyvan & Paul Colyvan, 1987 | 24 | 25m, 4 | |||
| 8 |
★★ Ambrosia
“Food of the Gods” - an Armidale classic. Start: About 15m right of ‘Bleat’ a short ramp leads up right to a fine crack. Up ramp into vertical crack; fine and technical climbing to top. FA: Rob Clark & Brian Birchall, 1981 | 19 | 25m | |||
1.9. Lower Dome Wall 12 routes in Cliff
- Summary:
-
Mostly Trad climbing
description
This area is more or less at the same level as the ‘Brut’ area and can be reached by either scrambling down and around right from ‘Ambrosia’ or else a fifty meter abseil from the abseil tree atop of The Middle Tier, down slightly right will get you there.
The obvious hand jam crack left of a chimney/culvert is ‘Master Blaster’. ‘Inner Limits’ and ‘Astonished into Ovulation’ are a little lower down to the left from here and actually finish on the terrace where ‘Brut’ etc start.
| Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| 1 |
Inner Limits
Start: From ‘Master Blaster’ follow the gully down to the very bottom of the cliff and turn right (facing gorge).
FA: Ed Sharpe & Murray Hewitt, 1981 | 16 | 37m, 2 | |||
| 2 |
Astonished Into Ovulation
Start: Right and up from 'Inner Limits'; obvious straight thin crack. Up crack to ledge below ‘Bleat’. FA: Evelyn Leis & Louise Shepherd, 1982 | 22 | 30m | |||
| 3 |
★ Master Blaster
A lot harder than it looks. Start: At base of orange cracks to the left of chimney/culvert. Easy climbing to hand jam crack. Awkward and strenuous from there to top. FA: Rob Clark & Brian Birchall, 1982 | 18 | 25m | |||
| 4 |
Built-in Obsolescence
Start: The wall 3m right of ‘Master Blaster’. Up the wall to the ledge, follow small ledges and good holds to the main crack, up this to top. FA: John Lattanzio & Anthony Brennan, 1986 | 20 | 22m | |||
| 5 |
★★★ Sweet Dreams
????? | 23 | 60m | |||
| 6 |
★★★ Curtain Call
An excellent flake crack on pitch two Start: As for ‘Biggus Grippus’,
FA: Mark Colyvan & Paul Bayne, 1981 | 21 | 60m, 2 | |||
| 7 |
Grave Reservations
One-point of aid near the top of P1 eliminated by Colyvan & Bayne 25/7/81. Start: As for ‘Biggus Grippus’.
FA: Al Stephens & Brian Birchall (alt leads), 1981 FFA: Mark Colyvan & Paul Bayne, 1981 | 19 | 50m, 2 | |||
| 8 |
Biggus Grippus
Start: Chimney to the right of 'Master Blaster'.
FA: Al Stephens & Rob Clark, 1981 | 18 | 50m, 2 | |||
| 9 |
Female Frenzy
Start: 2m right of ‘Grave Reservations’, the overhanging orange Corner.
FA: Louise Shepherd & Evelyn Leis, 1982 | 23 | 40m, 2 | |||
| 10 |
Uncertain Future
Unfortunately the first pitch is the only worthwhile bit of climbing on this route. Perhaps if a rap station was put in after the first pitch it might get more ascents. Start: About 5m right of ‘Female Frenzy’ is a short rightward diagonal finger crack.
FA: Paul Bayne & Mark Colyvan, 1981 | 21 | 72m, 4 | |||
| 11 |
Face Lift
A classic case of fine crack climbing. Start: At the bottom of the slabs quite a way right of ‘Uncertain Future’ .You can either walk across from the previous routes or walk down from the top via the upstream descent gully.
FA: Phil Prior, Brian Birchall & Joe Friend, 1978 | 17 | 110m, 7 | |||
| 12 |
★ Face Value
A variant to ‘Face Value’.
FA: Al Stephens & P. Clark, 1981 | 17 | 63m, 4 | |||
1.10. Overkill Area 3 routes in Area
- Summary:
-
All Trad climbing
Lat / Long: -30.620773, 151.814483
description
This area, although a little hard to find from the top, is unmistakable once you’ve found it. The identifying feature is ‘Overkill’, a long rightward leaning crack/corner. To gat there just walk straight down the hill below 'Diabolique' to the top of the next cliff. Bore you will find a pinnacle separated the main cliff by a chimney and a boulder bridge at the top.
'Vallium Vision' climbs the downstream side of this pinnacle and from the top of it you get a good view of the top pitch of 'Overkill'. Abseil down the pinnacle to get to 'Vallium Vision'. About 40 downstream abseil off a tree, with a chain at eye level, to get to the terrace on which 'Overkill'. Alternatively walk straight down the hill from 'Autumnal Beauty' and keep traversing straight across.
 |
||||||||
| Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| 1 |
★ Minor Theatrics
Start: As for ‘Overkill’
FA: Mark Colyvan & Paul Colyvan, 1982 | 18 | 40m, 2 | |||||
| 2 |
★★★ Overkill
Another classic from the same team that gave you ‘Prehistoric Sounds’. Start: At the extreme right hand end of the terrace that ‘Biggus Grippus’ finishes on.
FA: Mark Colyvan & Paul Bayne, 1982 | 19 | 50m, 2, 1 | |||||
| 3 |
★★ Vallium Vision
On the pinnacle opposite ‘Overkill’, above ‘Face Value’. Abseil in from the top of the pinnacle to the belay stance below the crack on the downstream side of the pinnacle. Climb the crack moving left past the bolt to the second crack, and on to the top. FA: John Lattanzio & Russell (Chunder) Chudleigh, 1985 | 22 | 30m | |||||
1.11. The King Pin 5 routes in Feature
- Summary:
-
Trad climbing and Rock climbing
Lat / Long: -30.619963, 151.814287
description
This is the prominent pinnacle at the extreme left hand end of the cliff (as you face the gorge). It is separated from the main cliff by slabs and a gully.
| Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| 1 |
Swivel
Wide bridging and swiveling. Start: below prominent chimney.
FA: Joe Friend, 1978 | 14 | 41m, 3 | |||
| 2 |
Swivel Variant
Start: To the right of the chimney; on the wall. FA: Joe Friend, 1978 | 18 | 10m, 3 | |||
| 3 |
Speleo Blues
Start: In the chimney on the NW side of the northern half of the King Pin. Up in three way chimney and onto large chock block. Diagonally up around leftward spiralling traverse to top of blocks. FA: Joe Friend & Rod McClymont, 1978 | 12 | 25m | |||
| 4 |
Monsieur Hanging Rock
Start: This route is on the slabs between The Flight Deck and The King Pin.
FA: Joe Friend (self belay), 1978 | 17 | 30m, 2 | |||
| 5 |
★ View from the Edge
Start: On the very lowest 'mini-buttress' way down the hillside below the Kingpin, on the face facing the river. The climb is the thin intermittent crack on the left front of the buttress. (left - facing the rock).
FA: Richard Curtis, 1984 | 18 | ||||
1.12. Dan's roof 1 route in Cliff
- Summary:
-
All Trad climbing
 |
||||||||
| Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| 1 | Dan roof project | 25 | ||||||
1.13. Reality Wall 9 routes in Area
- Summary:
-
Mostly Trad climbing
Lat / Long: -30.622901, 151.813328
approach
As for Dome Wall to where the vehicle track you are walking along descends into the little valley/gully. From here head off right and contour around right (facing gorge), then descend a little until you are on top of some good looking steep rock. There is a rubbly ledge on top where you leave your gear and abseil off trees to the base. You can also reach it by walking upstream from the top of Dome Wall.
history
This area was discovered by Austin Ladler in April 1980 while nile swing around from Sweetheart’s buttress, which was the In Jon crag at the time. During that year he picked off the two obvious crack-lines, ‘That Slick Little Crack’ 16 and ‘Layaway Reality’ 17.
Despite having only two routes Reality Wall still managed to attract a few people to repeat ‘Layaway Reality’ which was to become somewhat of a local classic. On one such trip, visitor ?? Staszewskl noticed the slab to the right of ‘Layaway Reality’ and almost managed to top rope it with Al Stephens and Ed Sharp. Then began the talk and speculation about the slabs until eventually Stephens bolted the slab to the right of ‘Layaway Reality’ and ??? bolted a steeper route right of ‘That Slick Little Crack’. However Paul Colyvan (alias Animal) was to get in on the act before either of the above two routes were climbed by doing the obvious??? corner and slab right of Al’s route to give ‘Short back Slides’ 22 in January 1985. The next day Stephens climbed his route to give ‘Iron in the Soul’ 21 and Sharp, after attempting his, gave it to Animal, who completed it, producing ‘Rant and Rave’ 23. Another route added since was also by Animal who returned to add ‘Sudden Impact’ 22
The existing routes are of such high quality I'm sure it will always see visitors. It’s proximity to both 'Dome Wall' and 'Sweethearts' makes it an ideal venue for half a day here and half a day at either of the other two crags.
 |
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| Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| 1 |
New23
FA: Dan Honeyman, 2008 | 23 | ||||||
| 2 |
New22
FA: Dan Honeyman, 2008 | 22 | ||||||
| 3 |
★★★ Layaway Reality
Line following the system of layback cracks and under-clings on the downstream end of the slabs. Originally done with one or two points of aid in the top corner hut was freed by A. Legler and Ed Sharp in October 1980. Start: At the far left of the slabs.
FA: Austin Legler & Ed Sharpe, 1980 | 17 | 80m, 3 | |||||
| 4 |
★★★ Iron in the Soul
Start: At the right-hand end of the main slab/wall.
FA: Al Stephens & Simon Gay, 1985 | 20 | 85m, 2, 8 | |||||
| 5 |
★★★ Short Back and Slides
Start: The seam/corner that goes straight up above the start of ‘Iron in the Soul’.
FA: Paul Colyvan & Brian Birchall, 1985 | 21 | 80m, 2 | |||||
| 6 |
★★ Sudden Impact
There are a couple of spots on this route where a fail could be nasty. Start: On the ledge 2m right of ‘Short Back and Slides’ at about half height. Easily up to overlap, step right and up to bolt runner then continue to top, moving slightly left near the top. FA: Paul Colyvan & Phil Parker, 1985 | 24 R | 15m | |||||
| 7 |
New27
FA: Dan Honeyman, 2008 | 27 | ||||||
| 8 |
★★★ Rant and Rave
Start: The next line right of 'Short Back and Slides' at ground level. Up hand crack which splits into two finger cracks below a tree, continue to blocky ledge. Scramble up corner then right then up. FA: Austin Legler & D. Nehl, 1980 | 23 | 25m | |||||
| 9 |
That Slick Little Crack
Start: The very clean crack system 3m right of ‘That Slick Little Crack’. Juggy corner to ledge past bolt to bulge (crux).Over bulge past two bolt-runners, then crack to slab finish. FA: Paul Colyvan & Al Stephens, 1985 | 16 | 15m, 3 | |||||
