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Nodes in Boreang Campsite Area

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Boreang Campsite Area

Climbing restrictions apply to many crags in Gariwerd/Grampians. Some of these restrictions are likely to change over time as assessments are completed. Tags are being applied to most crags to reflect their current status. Additional access-notes are provided to clarify restrictions where required (and will over-ride this notice). Current and further Parks Victoria advice can be found at https://www.parks.vic.gov.au/places-to-see/parks/grampians-national-park/rock-climbing-in-gariwerd

Closed Paddys Castle

Cliff faces north-east. GR 238843 This cliff located in a Cultural Values precinct CV38 - Paddy's Castle, in the GGLMP

Closed Paddys Castle
10 To be Slim, To be Slim

Start 2m L of Irish Weetbix. Burrow through the thin hole just L of The Last Rights of Rory O'Meally.

18 The Last Rights of Rory O'Meally

Roof with hole through it.

16 Irish Weetbix

Initialled, R-leaning diagonal.

16 Irish Weetbix Variant Start

From 5 m R of IW, go up L to join IW.

18 Doing a Line

As for ABoC for 5m, then a thin move up L, and up the surprisingly sustained wall between IWVS and ABoC. Direct through centre of top bulge using small roof flake. Looks lichenous but all holds were cleaned during/after FA.

14 A Bit of Craic

The crack just L of D, gained by way of tricky orange cracks L of corner. 12 if orange cracks are avoided by climbing D for 6m.

8 Dungeon

Corner 4 m R of IWVS.

7 Blarney Stone

Arete R of Dungeon to roof, step R, up.

13 Uidhir

Mossy crack 15 m R of BS, veering R to large scoops. L and over steepening to foot of orange nose. Go 3 m L, then up.

19 Storm Trooper

Start at square 130 m R of Uidhir, below corner up high. Up, mantle L, up.

21 Clever Heather

A bit of everything on nice rock, but struggles for the star. Textbook handcrack 3m L of F, through L end of roof, thuggish short thin crack, then thin slab L of black streak to roof. Hand traverse R to airy mantle. Short corner crack to top.

14 Fredarnehaun

Up to corner 15 m R of ST. Up corner, R and up arete.

16 Wee Bit of Blarney

Initialled line 5 m R of Fredarnehaun.

16 To Be Sure, To Be Sure

Up from 2m right of Wee Bit of Blarney to break. Traverse 5m right to ledge above roof, then diagonally across Hoople Has a Hernia (watch out for rope drag).

10 IRA

Pull up 10 m R of WBB. Swing R to ledge. Up, taking care with large, balanced slab near top.

21 Hoople Has a Hernia

Up from 1m right of IRA (on Main Wall) through large, orange roof to ledge at 5m. Over next roof, then balance up.

Back Wall

The following three routes are on the southeast-facing back wall (parallel to main wall but on other side of ‘castle’)

17 Back to Scraps

Arête at right side of wall, then step round roof. Loose territory above.

15 Short Back and Sides

Line in middle of face past deep horizontal break. Through bulge (crux),then up to small overhang at top.

7 My Back Verandah

Left edge of back wall. Crack to roof, then step right and through roof.

Showing all 22 nodes.

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