Nodes in Central Grampians

Climbing restrictions apply to many crags in Gariwerd/Grampians. Some of these restrictions are likely to change over time as assessments are completed. Tags are being applied to most crags to reflect their current status. Additional access-notes are provided to clarify restrictions where required (and will over-ride this notice). Current and further Parks Victoria advice can be found at https://www.parks.vic.gov.au/places-to-see/parks/grampians-national-park/rock-climbing-in-gariwerd

Climbing restrictions apply to many crags in Gariwerd/Grampians. Some of these restrictions are likely to change over time as assessments are completed. Tags are being applied to most crags to reflect their current status. Additional access-notes are provided to clarify restrictions where required (and will over-ride this notice). Current and further Parks Victoria advice can be found at https://www.parks.vic.gov.au/places-to-see/parks/grampians-national-park/rock-climbing-in-gariwerd

Climbing restrictions apply to many crags in Gariwerd/Grampians. Some of these restrictions are likely to change over time as assessments are completed. Tags are being applied to most crags to reflect their current status. Additional access-notes are provided to clarify restrictions where required (and will over-ride this notice). Current and further Parks Victoria advice can be found at https://www.parks.vic.gov.au/places-to-see/parks/grampians-national-park/rock-climbing-in-gariwerd

Climbing restrictions apply to many crags in Gariwerd/Grampians. Some of these restrictions are likely to change over time as assessments are completed. Tags are being applied to most crags to reflect their current status. Additional access-notes are provided to clarify restrictions where required (and will over-ride this notice). Current and further Parks Victoria advice can be found at https://www.parks.vic.gov.au/places-to-see/parks/grampians-national-park/rock-climbing-in-gariwerd

Climbing restrictions apply to many crags in Gariwerd/Grampians. Some of these restrictions are likely to change over time as assessments are completed. Tags are being applied to most crags to reflect their current status. Additional access-notes are provided to clarify restrictions where required (and will over-ride this notice). Current and further Parks Victoria advice can be found at https://www.parks.vic.gov.au/places-to-see/parks/grampians-national-park/rock-climbing-in-gariwerd

Climbing restrictions apply to many crags in Gariwerd/Grampians. Some of these restrictions are likely to change over time as assessments are completed. Tags are being applied to most crags to reflect their current status. Additional access-notes are provided to clarify restrictions where required (and will over-ride this notice). Current and further Parks Victoria advice can be found at https://www.parks.vic.gov.au/places-to-see/parks/grampians-national-park/rock-climbing-in-gariwerd

Towards the R end of the cliff and just L of a distinctive, yellow, L-facing corner and roof in the upper part of the cliff is a box-like groove, marked with a small cairn, behind a large tree. Line to loose ledge. Continue to steep section, then go diagonally R up wall to ledge below corner on R (just L of the roof mentioned above). Up.

Seam, then square groove 120m before end of cliff.

The far country. Left-facing corner (loose block at 7m) above small, square cave 100m before cliff-end.

Climbing restrictions apply to many crags in Gariwerd/Grampians. Some of these restrictions are likely to change over time as assessments are completed. Tags are being applied to most crags to reflect their current status. Additional access-notes are provided to clarify restrictions where required (and will over-ride this notice). Current and further Parks Victoria advice can be found at https://www.parks.vic.gov.au/places-to-see/parks/grampians-national-park/rock-climbing-in-gariwerd

Companion route to On Safari. Start up On Safaribut continue straight up wall. From prominent flake, veer up left to finish steeply by final, short, broad groove.

Brilliant and sustained climbing on wall right of Jungle Drums. From 4m right of Jungle Drums, climb middle of wall,traverse left to foot of diagonal crack just above overhangs over Jungle Drums. Up diagonal, then follow crackup right for 3m to stance. Step up left and finish steeply straight up.

Easily up to ledge with large tree on left side of right wall of On Safari(descent) gully. Belay. Use tree to surmount bulge, then climb crack above

At foot of right arête of On Safari (descent gully) is a great perched boulder. Climb wall 2m left of this, then steep line above.

Climbing restrictions apply to many crags in Gariwerd/Grampians. Some of these restrictions are likely to change over time as assessments are completed. Tags are being applied to most crags to reflect their current status. Additional access-notes are provided to clarify restrictions where required (and will over-ride this notice). Current and further Parks Victoria advice can be found at https://www.parks.vic.gov.au/places-to-see/parks/grampians-national-park/rock-climbing-in-gariwerd

Climbing restrictions apply to many crags in Gariwerd/Grampians. Some of these restrictions are likely to change over time as assessments are completed. Tags are being applied to most crags to reflect their current status. Additional access-notes are provided to clarify restrictions where required (and will over-ride this notice). Current and further Parks Victoria advice can be found at https://www.parks.vic.gov.au/places-to-see/parks/grampians-national-park/rock-climbing-in-gariwerd

Climbing restrictions apply to many crags in Gariwerd/Grampians. Some of these restrictions are likely to change over time as assessments are completed. Tags are being applied to most crags to reflect their current status. Additional access-notes are provided to clarify restrictions where required (and will over-ride this notice). Current and further Parks Victoria advice can be found at https://www.parks.vic.gov.au/places-to-see/parks/grampians-national-park/rock-climbing-in-gariwerd

Climbing restrictions apply to many crags in Gariwerd/Grampians. Some of these restrictions are likely to change over time as assessments are completed. Tags are being applied to most crags to reflect their current status. Additional access-notes are provided to clarify restrictions where required (and will over-ride this notice). Current and further Parks Victoria advice can be found at https://www.parks.vic.gov.au/places-to-see/parks/grampians-national-park/rock-climbing-in-gariwerd

Climbing restrictions apply to many crags in Gariwerd/Grampians. Some of these restrictions are likely to change over time as assessments are completed. Tags are being applied to most crags to reflect their current status. Additional access-notes are provided to clarify restrictions where required (and will over-ride this notice). Current and further Parks Victoria advice can be found at https://www.parks.vic.gov.au/places-to-see/parks/grampians-national-park/rock-climbing-in-gariwerd

Steep and pushy. Line at left end of orange wall 6m right of Fossil Fuel.

Climbing restrictions apply to many crags in Gariwerd/Grampians. Some of these restrictions are likely to change over time as assessments are completed. Tags are being applied to most crags to reflect their current status. Additional access-notes are provided to clarify restrictions where required (and will over-ride this notice). Current and further Parks Victoria advice can be found at https://www.parks.vic.gov.au/places-to-see/parks/grampians-national-park/rock-climbing-in-gariwerd

Climbing restrictions apply to many crags in Gariwerd/Grampians. Some of these restrictions are likely to change over time as assessments are completed. Tags are being applied to most crags to reflect their current status. Additional access-notes are provided to clarify restrictions where required (and will over-ride this notice). Current and further Parks Victoria advice can be found at https://www.parks.vic.gov.au/places-to-see/parks/grampians-national-park/rock-climbing-in-gariwerd

Climbing restrictions apply to many crags in Gariwerd/Grampians. Some of these restrictions are likely to change over time as assessments are completed. Tags are being applied to most crags to reflect their current status. Additional access-notes are provided to clarify restrictions where required (and will over-ride this notice). Current and further Parks Victoria advice can be found at https://www.parks.vic.gov.au/places-to-see/parks/grampians-national-park/rock-climbing-in-gariwerd

Climbing restrictions apply to many crags in Gariwerd/Grampians. Some of these restrictions are likely to change over time as assessments are completed. Tags are being applied to most crags to reflect their current status. Additional access-notes are provided to clarify restrictions where required (and will over-ride this notice). Current and further Parks Victoria advice can be found at https://www.parks.vic.gov.au/places-to-see/parks/grampians-national-park/rock-climbing-in-gariwerd

Climbing restrictions apply to many crags in Gariwerd/Grampians. Some of these restrictions are likely to change over time as assessments are completed. Tags are being applied to most crags to reflect their current status. Additional access-notes are provided to clarify restrictions where required (and will over-ride this notice). Current and further Parks Victoria advice can be found at https://www.parks.vic.gov.au/places-to-see/parks/grampians-national-park/rock-climbing-in-gariwerd

Climbing restrictions apply to many crags in Gariwerd/Grampians. Some of these restrictions are likely to change over time as assessments are completed. Tags are being applied to most crags to reflect their current status. Additional access-notes are provided to clarify restrictions where required (and will over-ride this notice). Current and further Parks Victoria advice can be found at https://www.parks.vic.gov.au/places-to-see/parks/grampians-national-park/rock-climbing-in-gariwerd

Climbing restrictions apply to many crags in Gariwerd/Grampians. Some of these restrictions are likely to change over time as assessments are completed. Tags are being applied to most crags to reflect their current status. Additional access-notes are provided to clarify restrictions where required (and will over-ride this notice). Current and further Parks Victoria advice can be found at https://www.parks.vic.gov.au/places-to-see/parks/grampians-national-park/rock-climbing-in-gariwerd

Climbing restrictions apply to many crags in Gariwerd/Grampians. Some of these restrictions are likely to change over time as assessments are completed. Tags are being applied to most crags to reflect their current status. Additional access-notes are provided to clarify restrictions where required (and will over-ride this notice). Current and further Parks Victoria advice can be found at https://www.parks.vic.gov.au/places-to-see/parks/grampians-national-park/rock-climbing-in-gariwerd

Climbing restrictions apply to many crags in Gariwerd/Grampians. Some of these restrictions are likely to change over time as assessments are completed. Tags are being applied to most crags to reflect their current status. Additional access-notes are provided to clarify restrictions where required (and will over-ride this notice). Current and further Parks Victoria advice can be found at https://www.parks.vic.gov.au/places-to-see/parks/grampians-national-park/rock-climbing-in-gariwerd

Climbing restrictions apply to many crags in Gariwerd/Grampians. Some of these restrictions are likely to change over time as assessments are completed. Tags are being applied to most crags to reflect their current status. Additional access-notes are provided to clarify restrictions where required (and will over-ride this notice). Current and further Parks Victoria advice can be found at https://www.parks.vic.gov.au/places-to-see/parks/grampians-national-park/rock-climbing-in-gariwerd

Climbing restrictions apply to many crags in Gariwerd/Grampians. Some of these restrictions are likely to change over time as assessments are completed. Tags are being applied to most crags to reflect their current status. Additional access-notes are provided to clarify restrictions where required (and will over-ride this notice). Current and further Parks Victoria advice can be found at https://www.parks.vic.gov.au/places-to-see/parks/grampians-national-park/rock-climbing-in-gariwerd

Cliff faces south. Walking time 25 minutes. GR 301846

Humiliating start. Up right into groove at left end of face. Straight up.

Good, steep climbing with a perplexing finish. Up Remains to be Seen for 6m. Traverse right on break to under-cut arête. Up it, veering slightly right to finish.

Superb. Powerful roof-crack in middle of crag.

Ripper line. Corner-crack, roof, cave at right end of cliff.

Cliffs face south. Walking time 10 minutes. GR 305843

Up Pocketed to before big pocket.Traverse left across thin wall to arête. Up this, veering left.

This outcrop is known for its amazing pockets. Jump up through perfect hand slots above cave on left cliff.Straight on up over overlaps to pimply finish.

Pocketed line and wall immediately right of Pocketed.

Grey, shallow corner starting out of right side of cave and 2m left of '586 BC'. Straight up wall, then black pimply wall.

Steep crack on left of wall left of Fencing The Fridge. Finish up middle of buttress on poor rock.

Excellent, steep pocket-pulling.Pocketed thin crack 3m right of cave on left cliff. Step right and over overhang. Up seam above, then finish by pimply groove.

Left one of twin cracks 9m left of Fencing The Fridge to ledge at 8m. Traverse right to middle of wall. Up black streaks.

Up 4m right of Crescent Moon.

Crack 2m left of arête immediately left of Fencing The Fridge, and 2m right of Boy Racer. Corner, then pocketed wall.

Bold start.1m left of The Fall Of Jerusalem, on middle cliff. Straight up pocketed seam to ledge. On up the lovely wall keeping on its left side until near top, when it is best to veer right into The Fall Of Jerusalem.

Slender buttress facing southeast on middle cliff. Distinguished by flake torn off at 6m. Finish up right arête to cave. Exit up right.

Open corner 5m right of Fencing The Fridge, then right through bulges to sloping ledge. Delicately up ‘pimpled’ corner to shelf. Follow ledge round left. Corner to ledge. Belay.

Good, steep pocket-pulling.Sustained.Climb pocketed seam on buttress 5mright of The Fall Of Jerusalem to ledge.Go 2m right and climb overhang and seam above.

Scary ceiling.Take #3½ and #4 Friends. Crack, then roof, on right cliff 2m right of suspended boulder.

A nasty business! Line 5m right of Heartland, on right cliff. Loose and scary line is carefully climbed to an airy finish.

Incipient crack to break 2m right of Shingles, then groove.

Climbing restrictions apply to many crags in Gariwerd/Grampians. Some of these restrictions are likely to change over time as assessments are completed. Tags are being applied to most crags to reflect their current status. Additional access-notes are provided to clarify restrictions where required (and will over-ride this notice). Current and further Parks Victoria advice can be found at https://www.parks.vic.gov.au/places-to-see/parks/grampians-national-park/rock-climbing-in-gariwerd

Cliff faces north-east. GR 238843 This cliff located in a Cultural Values precinct CV38 - Paddy's Castle, in the GGLMP

Start 2m L of Irish Weetbix. Burrow through the thin hole just L of The Last Rights of Rory O'Meally.

Roof with hole through it.

Initialled, R-leaning diagonal.

From 5 m R of IW, go up L to join IW.

As for ABoC for 5m, then a thin move up L, and up the surprisingly sustained wall between IWVS and ABoC. Direct through centre of top bulge using small roof flake. Looks lichenous but all holds were cleaned during/after FA.

The crack just L of D, gained by way of tricky orange cracks L of corner. 12 if orange cracks are avoided by climbing D for 6m.

Corner 4 m R of IWVS.

Arete R of Dungeon to roof, step R, up.

Mossy crack 15 m R of BS, veering R to large scoops. L and over steepening to foot of orange nose. Go 3 m L, then up.

Start at square 130 m R of Uidhir, below corner up high. Up, mantle L, up.

A bit of everything on nice rock, but struggles for the star. Textbook handcrack 3m L of F, through L end of roof, thuggish short thin crack, then thin slab L of black streak to roof. Hand traverse R to airy mantle. Short corner crack to top.

Up to corner 15 m R of ST. Up corner, R and up arete.

Initialled line 5 m R of Fredarnehaun.

Up from 2m right of Wee Bit of Blarney to break. Traverse 5m right to ledge above roof, then diagonally across Hoople Has a Hernia (watch out for rope drag).

Pull up 10 m R of WBB. Swing R to ledge. Up, taking care with large, balanced slab near top.

Up from 1m right of IRA (on Main Wall) through large, orange roof to ledge at 5m. Over next roof, then balance up.

The following three routes are on the southeast-facing back wall (parallel to main wall but on other side of ‘castle’)

Arête at right side of wall, then step round roof. Loose territory above.

Line in middle of face past deep horizontal break. Through bulge (crux),then up to small overhang at top.

Left edge of back wall. Crack to roof, then step right and through roof.

Climbing restrictions apply to many crags in Gariwerd/Grampians. Some of these restrictions are likely to change over time as assessments are completed. Tags are being applied to most crags to reflect their current status. Additional access-notes are provided to clarify restrictions where required (and will over-ride this notice). Current and further Parks Victoria advice can be found at https://www.parks.vic.gov.au/places-to-see/parks/grampians-national-park/rock-climbing-in-gariwerd

Fantastic climbing from grade 12 to 28. Superb rock and home to the mega classics Scarab (12*), 'The Minch' (12), Basilisk (16), Odysseus (17*), "Blimp" (20), "Pathos" (21*), 'Flying Circus' (21*), 'Dagon's Temple' (22), Stone Ocean (22), Genesis Direct (24), 'Manic Depressive' (25), Ostler (25*), 'Angular Perspective' (28), The Ogive (28), 'Touchstone Pictures' (28**). Check out Chris Baxter's "South Eastern Grampians" guide (1991) for a full listing until this guide supersedes it. Glenn Tempest & Simon Mentz also have a good select guide to the 'Grampians' which is still in print.

Slabby seam with offset edges on far left end of cliff. Shallow corners 15m left of Whitebait. Three eye-bolts. Crack above. Advisable to stick clip the first BR. Rapchains.

Thin offset seam with ringbolts. This looks like a massive sandbag. Prepare to be humbled!

6m right of Whitebait, old bolt at start?

Technical stemming! Up short finger crack, sling the top of the flake, then stem up past RB to corner. Keep stemming to top past another two RBs to lower-off. Trad for the start and finish. Rebolted 2015

Bouldery start on pockets up little prow (RBs). Trad from half way to Lower-off. Retrobolted 2015.

Initialled. First climb on smooth, grey wall 20m right of Pyjamaland. Low BR.

Initialed. Start below left end of high roofs. Wanders and is loose and fithly.

65 mright of AP. Initialled. Also wandering, probably loose and filthy.

Everything left of 'Pathos' is now closed.

More info here: https://www.parks.vic.gov.au/-/media/project/pv/main/parks/documents/plans-and-projects/gariwerd-protections-information-sheet---aug2020.pdf

Off width corner crack 6m right of TA

Sickle shaped corner 5m right of Impromptu. May still have 2 old bolts.

Diagonal crack right of Whale

Loose sandy wall between TF and T

Start as foTF, traverse left then up past old bolt

Short crack 20m right of Whale. The 1991 guide makes all these routes sound awful and they've probably only gotten worse.

Left of descent gully (left of camping cave) is a wall with a small cave. Thin crack just right of left arête, past bulge,then horizontal break.

Loose arete on left side of descent gully

Line in middle of face, bulge, thin finish.

Up to bulge just right of Porthos. Up

The big sandy cave near the left end of the cliff, sprouting various bolts and steep climbs.

Traverses the lip of the camping cave from Left end in 3 pitches.

Start 10m left of Angular Perspective.Up steeply past six FHs to lip.

Everything left of 'Pathos' is now closed.

More info here: https://www.parks.vic.gov.au/-/media/project/pv/main/parks/documents/plans-and-projects/gariwerd-protections-information-sheet---aug2020.pdf