Ascents in Eureka Wall

low gravity day

Nice warm-up

Usually the ROI on KP routes is quite good...

Awesome

Just to 3rd bolt, time poor re weather

One green cam and one yellow cam to supplement bolts

Another close one! Slipped moving to final jug first shot. Brilliant brilliant climbing, just like granite.

So close to onsight, slipped with my fingers on jug. Pumpy!

You can place a C4#3 in the pocket below the huecos if you dont want to sling them.

Not much to add to all the other comments here, brilliant climbing on bomber gear! (Climbed as one long pitch)

Very artistic. Fell after the last bolt on OS...coudl really feel the laps of AP from earlier in the day.

An amazing route on an amazing wall, definite highlight of my gramps trip. Take care with some loose rock through huecos on pitch 1 - I dislodged a boot size piece that my sling was around.

What a route, 4th shots a charm, but part of me wanted to fall off, just so i could climb it again. Did get to do the first pitch 6 times, as i was using it too warm up for the main event. Did in one long pitch with doubles.

Took a mega whip at the crux on the onsight. 2nd clean to get gear off after mitch had a go.

Even with Dave Hoyle gear in I couldn't manage the flash after getting flustered looking for better feet. Went to the top, pulled the rope, retied and sent it. Hot tip; you just need to keep moving through the tricky bits! Lots of good rests break up perfect sustained climbing on brilliant slanting rails/finger jugs. By far the most amazing piece of rock I've seen. This place is worth the hype. Will be back again for sure!

ammazingggg!!!

Dream to climb. 2nd shot today, still to pumped out placing the gear on the 1st burn. An Absolute Mega route. 2nd pitch only.

Onsight P1. Scary/Dangerous clipping first bolt, couldn't reach it. Found this pitch technically as difficult as P2. 3 shots at P2, dogged first lap, fell off crux 2nd and 3rd go taking some big whips. Need a rest day as its 7 days on. Last shot, 1 fall at crux and clean to top. Rock climbing doesn't get better than this, one of the best routes I have ever climbed.

Pitch 1 and 2.

Wow, KP, this is up there with THE BEST. Technical, pumpy, immaculate and intense for 40-odd metres. There is 1 Jug on the entire pitch. 3 laps on Top Rope Solo putting it all together, with surprisi gly good linkage on the 2nd lap (but utterly worn-out by the 3rd lap). Dialled all 5-6 cruxes, but really struggled on the hardest Flake Crux with a blind footer. The top headwall is beautiful steep thinness and nails when pumped. With more endurance I could do this... This is a route to aspire to!

The 2013 edition Gramps guide has this as a Sport Climb... this is NOT a sport climb (this has been rectified in the newest edition). I got a bit crunched falling off trying to gain the 3rd bolt, with no gear to protect the tricky move, and unable to reverse it. After skimming the ground, torrential rain put an end to my attempt. The traverse in was tricky but interesting (felt gr25 in itself - though it was damp so I might be wrong). Looks stunning. Next time, perhaps, but with GEAR.

Pitch 1 Only as a warmup. I had gear in Pythagoras Theorum so I lowered off to the ground, then had funky self-belay/aid/free fun seconding myself to get my own gear back. An awesome warmup if you're doing Pythagoras, though potentially a nuisence to clean. I got surprisingly pumped towards the end heel-hooking along the slopey break. P2 looks radical and obvious... intriguing.

Utterly stoked! 2nd shot today, 6th lap total (incl. top rope laps). On the 1st shot I had a random foot slip on the last hard move of the crux, but on the Send it went flawlessly. 13min from setoff to topout according to my phone. So much extreme, tenuous stemming and tiny movements relying on friction and tension to stay on the wall. Stressful and intimidating, but very rewarding. This was the 4th (and last) of my big adventure goals to be knocked off in the past year.

TRS as a warmup to re-equip the route and refine beta on the lower crux. Struggled in the sweaty sun, but got the gear on (placing it all while leading) and came up with a new sequence for the lower crux that made it more strenuous, but more solid.

2 laps top rope. Finally figured out the crux move on the 1st lap. Good linkage on the 2nd lap, but a footslip on the lower crux and another at the main crux before I fixed up my sequence... Then linked from below main crux to the top. Still feels bloody insecure... but possible? Stripped most of my gear but left a fixed rope in situ for easy re-equiping when I come back in a few days.

Wow. Committing to the start fall-across from the fin took a while. Onsight to the undercling lower crux, then foot slip, then clean to 2m from the traverse jug placing gear before the wheels fell off. After a lot of falls I still haven't worked out 1.5m of extreme stemming to gain the traverse jug. Once on jug, clean to top. Amazing technical climb with slightly fiddly gear, and an utterly desperate crux. I need KP to resurrect the Gerbil to get through this clean. Back tomorrow.

Repeat. A great warmup. Long, varied climbing. Good but spaced gear, and a punchy finale. The end section might be 21ish.

Lead the gear into the top half this time. Came off right at the top of the section with bad feet on my lead attempt. Better to leave the rope in the P1 gear for P2 - lighter to pull up when clipping.

Seconded it to clean the gear. None of the move are too hard but there is a lot of climbing. Still a bit beyond me.

Crappy rock after the ledge, wet up top and desperate near the top! Should have warmed up on Return to Gariwerd instead!

tough warm up, especially with part of the route wet... Some dubious rock on the left after the ledge.