Showing all 53 routes.
Grade | Route | Gear style | Popularity | ||
---|---|---|---|---|---|
Tupameros Area | |||||
22 | Urban Guerilla
A few interesting moves down low. Start: Starts almost immediately left of where the tourist track swings back right and cuts up through the cliff line. A small tree and stump is at the base. The route is marked with a white square.
FA: Kevin Lindorff & Peter Lindorff (alt leads), 1983 | 45m, 2 | |||
21 | ★★ Firepower
The crux pitch is a gem. The rest is very average. Best to skip the first two pitches and walk in via 'Hamster Roof'. Start: Starts 6m left of the tourist track. The shallow orange corner with a gum tree growing out at 2m.
FA: Jeff Lamb & Kevin Lindorff (Var leads), 1983 | 55m, 3 | |||
21 | ★ Firepower (Pitch 3)
| 25m | |||
21 | Guinea Pig Flake
Start: Starts 2m right of the top pitch of 'Firepower', which is 10m left of 'Hamster Roof'.
FA: Kevin Lindorff & Mike Wust, 1990 | 30m, 2 | |||
18 | Mujaheddin
| 75m | |||
21 | 8 Hours In A French Supermarket
Starts 5m left of 'Mujahideen' at a left leaning corner.
FA: Simon Atkins & Michael Woodrow Alts | 90m, 2 | |||
20 | Tupamaros
Start: Starts at the little grey undercut corner a little way left of 'Mujahideen'.
FA: Kevin Lindorff & Kieran Loughran, 1980 | 45m, 3 | |||
22 | ★ Gunboat Diplomacy
Initialled. Varied and interesting, especially with the direct finish. Start: Starts about 15-20m left of 'Mujahideen', at an aesthetic rightwards leaning layback crack/groove.
FA: Peter Lindorff & Kevin Lindorff (Alt leads), 1983 FA: Kevin Lindorff & Malcolm Matheson, 2016 | 65m, 2 | |||
22 | Gunboat Diplomacy Variant Finish
Start: From the terrace below the final section of 'Gunboat Diplomacy' take the prominent overhanging flake which is a five metres right of the last pitch corner pitch of 'Gunboat Diplomacy'. When the flake peters out, move up left to the top. FA: Kevin Lindorff & Michael Wust, 1983 | 18m | |||
30 | Red October
Un-repeated? Short, smooth and hard. Start: The right hand hanging corner from the terrace above 'Gunboat Diplomacy' and 20m left of 'Guinea Pig Flake'. FA: Malcolm Matheson, 1990 | 15m | |||
26 | ★ Hamster Roof
Another trademark HB roof climb. Shitty looking rock but climbs well. Start: The flaky roof on the right side of the terrace immediately above Gunboat Diplomacy's first pitch. FA: Malcolm Matheson, 1990 | 27m, 2 | |||
White Wall Area | |||||
18 | Mods?, What Mods?
Average at best. A route that rises diagonally rightward, ending up on the big ledge as for 'Gunboat Diplomacy'. Start: Starts from the boulder under a chossy roof on the east facing cliff 10m or so around the corner from 'Gunboat Diplomacy'. The details of this route are still as fresh as daisies in the memories of the first ascensionists. FA: Jerry Maddox & Glenn Tempest, 1980 | 60m | |||
17 R | All The Presidents Men
Uninspiring chossy ramble which seems to share the start 10m with Mods? What Mods? Start: Start from the boulder.
FA: Kevin Lindorff & Robin Miller, 1983 | 50m, 2 | |||
23 | ★ Power Play
Major right leaning 40 degree overhung corner. Pumpy, awkward and sustained. A climb for intelligent chimpanzees. Start: Initialled. Starts 6m left of 'All The Presidents Men' at base of slab and major corner. FA: Kevin Lindorff & Peter Lindorff, 1983 | 25m | |||
22 | Rebel Without A Corset
Up slab to weakness in roof. Over this (hard) to hand traverse right on jugs to ledge. Wander up wall above to finish. Start: Starts 8m left of 'All The Presidents Men'. FA: Louise Shepherd & Chris Peisker, 1985 | 20m | |||
24 | ★ Rebel Yelp
Start as for Rebel Without a Corset. Pull around the crux roof of RWaC. Instead of scuttling up the path of least resistance diagonally right as for RWaC, continue up the line directly until able to move up left past a bolt to finish up the left side of the prow. Double rings. FA: Kevin Lindorff & Malcolm Matheson, Jul 2016 | 20m, 1 | |||
24 | ★ Insurgency
Pulls around the left side of the RWaC roof (1m left of RWaC) and climbs up the left-hand crack past a bolt, then past another (as for Rebel Yelp). FA: Malcolm Matheson, Mark Wood & Kevin Lindorff, Jul 2016 | 20m, 2 | |||
17 | ★ The Misty Ridge
FA: Neil Monteith & Kathy Dicker, 2005 | 60m | |||
16 | Pig Sticker
One of the first routes climbed in the area and a major line. Start: Start at the small leftward facing corner heading up to the obvious major L facing corner. About 40m left of 'Power Play' towards the right hand end of the White Wall. The short wide crack section is quite pushy. Can be split into 2 pitches. FA: Keith Lockwood & Joan Schrameck, 1973 | 50m | |||
15 | ★ Sunset Boulevard
Keith returned 20 years after 'Pig Sticker' to score another good line. Lovely climbing on lovely rock. Start: Start at the pinkish slab just right of the initial corner of 'Pig Sticker'. FA: Keith Lockwood & Norm Booth, 1993 | 50m | |||
14 | Sunset Strip
Up to overhang, swing energetically out left and straight up smooth grey wall above. Walk off upwards. Start: From the start of 'Sunset Boulevard', walk right, along the sloping ledge for 9m to semi hanging belay below first break in overhang. FA: Noel Whiteside, Keith Lockwood & Kieran Loughran, 2001 | 20m | |||
14 | Royal Parade
Nice rock but not very sustained. Start: The next break to the right of 'Sunset Strip'. FA: Keith Lockwood, Noel Whiteside & Kieran Loughran, 2001 | 20m | |||
17 | Santa Monica Boulevard
A mountaineering romp up a major feature. Start: Squeezed in between 'Sunset Boulevard' and 'Pig Sticker'.
FA: James McInstosh & Mike Wust, 1998 | 55m, 2 | |||
18 R | Wire Guided
Featured slabby climbing with a real granite feel. Start: Starts 6m left of 'Pig Sticker' from the big ledge 6m up which is accessed by climbing up the tree leaning against the rock. Up the short corner-seam. Continue slightly R for a few metres then straight up slab to top. Protects surprisingly well with wires and small cams. FA: Peter Lindorff & Kevin Lindorff, 1983 | 50m | |||
16 | Young And Cunning
An very indirect version of Bay of Pigs. Starts 3m left of Wire Guided. The slab to a large ledge, move 5m left and up to a second ledge. Diagonally up right to large block beneath headwall. Up onto the headwall then left for 4m to below the lefthand end of a large cluster of jugs. Up to top. FA: Peter Cunningham, Kelvin Longhurst & John Blenkhorn, 1984 | 50m | |||
16 | Bay Of Pigs aka Young And Cunning
Start: Starts about 10m left of 'Wire Guided'. FA: Kevin Lindorff & Michael Wust, 1983 | 40m | |||
16 | Bay Of Pigs
Star about 10 left of Wire Guided. Up to the block beneath the short steepening. Step up then traverse 4m left to the big jugs then straight up. FA: Kevin Lindorff & Mike Wust, 1983 | 35m | |||
18 | Venice
Great central line up wall. The original grade of 14 was definitely suspect - despite Nod having led it in sandshoes because he forgot his climbing shoes. Take slings for pro.
FA: Keith Lockwood & Noel Whiteside, 2001 | 50m, 2 | |||
9 R | Panama Canal
Nice easy jug climbing. Michael and Kevin must have needed a rest day after doing all the other hard routes in the area! Start: 'Access' is a bit of a pain and possibly the crux! Start perhaps 10-15m left of Bay Of Pigs by scrambling along the large ledge then follow it left and up to its continuation. Beginners might want to rope up for this traverse. FA: Michael Wust & Kevin Lindorff, 1983 | 25m | |||
30 X | Orca
Hard grit 'Grampians' style. Effectively it is a grade 30 solo. Repeated by UK grit master Ben Heason and confirmed at English E8 6c. Start: Climbs the northern arete of the large boulder (Legolands bouldering area) which is directly opposite 'The Territorial Imperative'. FA: Julian Saunders (solo), 2002 | 8m | |||
20 R | ★★★ The Territorial Imperative
Attractive line - if you enjoy offwidths and runouts. The only viable route splitting the endless blankness on the far left side of White Wall. The hidden second pitch looks really good. Start: Locate the major left facing flake crack / chimney about 10m left of 'Panama Canal' back at ground level. The end of the first pitch finishes on the belay ledge for 'Panama Canal'. If you can't find this go back to the gym.
FA: Kevin Lindorff & Michael Wust, 1983 | 45m, 2, 1 | |||
Sandinista Wall | |||||
24 | ★ Reversing Peregrines
Awesomely pumpy fun thugging. Start 8m left of 'Fading Fast'. Stick clip recommended. Diagonally R on shattered rock to FH, then steeply past UB to join major cliff-splitting R-wards diagonal. Pump 15m up R along this past 2nd UB, across Fading Fast & Contra, and 5m further to FH. Now straight up to lower-off (60m rope essential). Full set of cams incl. #4 camalot, plus medium wires. The original piker's version (Will Monks, Neil Monteith, 21/8/05) finished as for FF, & you can also pike by lowering off SaL's anchor. FA: Will Monks & Steve Chapman, 2008 | 35m, 4 | |||
23 | ★ Reversing Peregrines Fading Fast Linkup
FA: Will Monks & Neil Monteith, 2005 | 25m | |||
24 R | Fading Fast
A steep climb up the short but deceptively overhanging wall just left of where the track hits the cliff and turns right. Carrigan led this route onsight the day after his one-point ascent of the Seventh Pillar. Start: Marked by small white square. FA: Kim Carrigan & Kieran Loughran (as far as the RP!), 1982 | 20m | |||
29 | Snakes And Ladders
Awkward undercut start then pockets and finally an all out throw for the ledge to join 'Fading Fast'. The subsequent addition of a DRB lower-off was rather unfortunate, as it is a retrobolt of 'Fading Fast' and the anchor of Contra can easily be reached a few metres higher and to the right. Start: Incipient pocketed seam just left of Contra with several bolts. FA: Garry Phillips, 2005 | 15m, 4 | |||
30 | ★★★ Contra Arms Pump
A popular steep powerful flake and pocket climb. One of the first routes of this style done in the Grampians. The climb eases up considerably in the upper half. Start: Start 15m left of 'Sandinista' at the well chalked flake crack. FA: Malcolm Matheson, 1989 | 20m, 2 | |||
Josh Grose Project
Starts up pockets then into faint corner. Looks next level. | 20m | ||||
Chris Jones' Project (open)
Chris has declared this open! Start: It's the line of about 6 (??) rusty FH's between Contra and David Or-Tiger. FA: Equipped by Chris Jones in, 2001 | 15m, 6 | ||||
30 | ★★★ Daniel Or-tiger
Daniel Ortega? Classic sustained line of pockets up a very steep wall. Six FH's and a fixed thread. Start: Starts 3m left of 'Sandinista' at the pocketed crack. Stickclip first bolt and clean/dry holds before starting. FA: Martin Scheel (Redpointed after six days of effort), 1989 | 25m, 6 | |||
33 | ★★ Sparticus
Hardest route in the Grampians? Start: Link-up of Daniel Or-Tiger into Somoza via some mind-blowing climbing. Very sustained with a bouldery crux. FA: Nathan Hoette, 2002 | 25m | |||
32 | ★★ Somoza
One of the hardest routes in the Grampians. Sustained. Often mistakenly called Samosa, but the naming theme is Nicaraguan revolutionaries not pastries! FA: Dave Jones, 1999 | 20m, 10 | |||
23 | ★★★ Sandinista
The stunning overhanging diagonal. The easiest way up this wall! The protection is brilliant and the pump is always present. One of the best lines in the Grampians. Start: Starts about 20m right of where the track hits the cliff. FA: Kevin Lindorff & Jeff Lamb, 1982 | 40m | |||
26 | ★★ Sandinista Direct
Steep crack climbing. It's the finger crack straight up the headwall, starting about 18m up Sandinista. FA: Malcolm Matheson, 1992 | 30m | |||
30 R | ★★★ Journey Through Nicaragua
One of the best all trad lines in Australia. Brilliant pocketed corner on the best rock anywhere and an inspiration for all hard climbers. This was the first grade 30 in Australia done outside of Arapiles. Start: The superb hanging corner about 15m right of 'Sandinista'. It finishes at the same point as 'Sandinista'. Gain access to the corner by stepping in from the ledge to the right. FA: Malcolm Matheson, 1987 | 20m | |||
29 | ★★ Checkmate
Steep wall hidden away from the prying eyes of the public. Start: Starts on hidden ledge up right of Journey. You access this from above, by scrambling down juggy grey wall 20m R from the top of Journey. FA: Garry Phillips, 2007 | 15m, 7 | |||
13 | Chad
Not a classic. Start: Starts at the middle of the large block 6m to the right of 'Journey Through Nicaragua'. Marked by small white square. FA: Mike Wust & C. Stewart, 1983 | 20m | |||
18 | Etendard
Shitty. Around 10m right from Chad are three blocky corners. Up the middle line, moving left to pull up the overhanging wall. Up via the ledges above. FA: Peter Lindorff & Michael Wust, 1983 | 25m | |||
Sandanista Area Bouldering Malapropism Boulder | |||||
V11 | Schnell | ||||
V4 | ★ You Say One Thing and Mean Another
| ||||
V3 | ★ Animal Nitrate
| ||||
V5 | Hip to the Jibe
| ||||
22 | Firepower Pitch Three
Pretty tough for the grade. Magnificant orange Arapilesian rock. Start: The thirty five degree overhanging corner about 12m left of 'Hamster Roof'. FA: Jeff Lamb & Kevin Lindorff, 1983 | 15m | |||
18 | Mujahideen
Start: Starts perhaps 20m left of the tourist track, from the gigantic boulder lying against the cliff.
FA: Jeff Lamb & Kevin Lindorff (Alt leads), 1982 | 75m, 3 |
Showing all 53 routes.