Routes as sport in Hollow Mountain (N & NE side of Mt. Stapylton)

Hard thin face moves past BRs onto sloping bulge

Start as for Flying Blind. Either stick clip the high 1st RB or place a small cam or nut in FB. Up FB for a few moves before a move L up onto the face and vague arete. Up this and make a spectacular move over the roof on jugs to the lower off.

Short and sharp. The overhanging orange wall with three FHs.

The original line (24) traversed left and then back right, avoiding the dyno. The direct version powers straight up past 3 FHs.

Popular but awkward climbing.

Start: Start 5m L of 'The Flying Emu'.

This is one of the easiest sport routes in the 'Grampians' to be partially protected from rain.

Start: Starts below the overhang three metres left of the large chimney chasm to the left of Float Like A 'Butterfly'.

Links 'The Flying Emu' into 'Float Like a Butterfly'.

Sustained steep climbing on big incuts for most of the way. One of the driest routes in the Hollow Mtn area, until the last few metres. One grade harder than 'Sting Like a Bee' and one grade easier than 'Amnesty International'. Start: Furthest left route on the main pocketed wall, with RB's. Watch out for the ledge fall potential up high due to the block on the left.

Climb the overhanging sharp crack system, then a great juggy headwall. Stick clip 1st bolt.

superceded by direct. Original wandering line best forgotten

traverse left from 3 bolt on tyrants past 5 U's to anchor.

One of the best grade 22 sport routes in 'Victoria', even though the start is very close to being a retrobolt of CWT. Seeps heavily in the dead of winter, although the key holds can be dryer than they look. Rebolted and extended 2017

Start: Starts 3m right of 'Sting' Like A Bee on small ledge.

Just right of waterfall

Starts as league of Nations, Goes into UN, then finishes as good fight direct. Some linkups are pretty lame, but imho this is f#cking ace.

Very bouldery crux section involving a long series of painful pockets.

Start: Ringbolted route 3m right of 'Chinese Water Torture'. Establish in 2001, an ascent by German hardman Andy Hofman grade 8a - 8c as not sure on Aussie grades! Recent ascentionists suggest 32 after repeated attemps by some very strong climbers.

Fantastic boulder sequence to finish off a great route.

Another fantastic sport route that was once fully trad.

Start 3m left of Amnesty International, to a prominent horizontal break, then steeply up a pocketed crack to the final horizontal break. Clip the last bolt of the direct finish, step right and finish as for Amnesty International (optional gear, such as a green camalot and a 10ish wire for the finish).

Eat your spinach for the top!

Bloody hard finish which can be done two ways.

Start: Line of FH's up black seam just to the right of 'Amnesty International'.

Easy sport arete. The first half was originally climbed on trad (and called No Fixed Gear) and was later accidentally retrobolted and renamed 'Amnesia'.

Start: You can't miss this overbolted slabby arete just right of 'Freedom Fighter'.

One move wonder up the middle of the pillar.

Best of the three finishes, extending the route up the far right arete.

Start: From the half way rap chain on 'Amnesia' head up right through overhang and up right side of pillar past many more FHs.

Start at the very left end of the main wall, below and immediately left of the hanging right-facing flake-corner (Western Ayatollahs). Climb up a short flake to clip the first fixed hanger then up the short, shallow, overhanging, right-facing corner to a bridging rest at the second hanger. Tend up right then up the knobbly overhanging face past another five fixed hangers to the rap chains on the ledge about 5m below the top of the cliff.

Nigh jugs exist and surprisingly sustained.

Start: Starts 6m left of 'Guernica', and 2m left of offwidth.

Line of FH's forming an extended boulder problem above the left side of 'Spanking the Monkeybars' boulder problem (left side of well chalked white sandy cave). Apparently grade 32+

Awkward undercut start then pockets and finally an all out throw for the ledge to join 'Fading Fast'. The subsequent addition of a DRB lower-off was rather unfortunate, as it is a retrobolt of 'Fading Fast' and the anchor of Contra can easily be reached a few metres higher and to the right.

Start: Incipient pocketed seam just left of Contra with several bolts.

Starts up pockets then into faint corner. Looks next level.

Chris has declared this open!

Start: It's the line of about 6 (??) rusty FH's between Contra and David Or-Tiger.

Daniel Ortega? Classic sustained line of pockets up a very steep wall. Six FH's and a fixed thread.

Start: Starts 3m left of 'Sandinista' at the pocketed crack. Stickclip first bolt and clean/dry holds before starting.

One of the hardest routes in the Grampians. Sustained. Often mistakenly called Samosa, but the naming theme is Nicaraguan revolutionaries not pastries!

Steep wall hidden away from the prying eyes of the public.

Start: Starts on hidden ledge up right of Journey. You access this from above, by scrambling down juggy grey wall 20m R from the top of Journey.

Starts down in the pit below Bat in A Hole. Hard pocket pulling through roof.

Roof pockets through a roof starting down in in the pit. Traverse left along flake to bouldery finish.

FHs up wall left of arete. Swing left on flake (ring bolt) then up very juggy wall which thins to a big crux move. At the top of the pillar head right to double ring anchor (used as descent anchor for Upper Cut Lunch Wall).

Ring bolted sport route climbing the face just right of arete. This is the best way to get to the Upper 'Cut Lunch Walls' ledge. Tricky start up left facing flake, then easier grey wall to top.

A good route for a belay slave. Soloed on first ascent due to impatience for a belay! Hard to locate for first timers. Thin face with three rings on east facing side of chasm 10m down and to the right of The Big Payback. Bridging against the back wall up high is to be avoided. Best way to approach is to climb the first half of Access Route. Lower off last RB or belay on ledge above on trad.

Left facing corner in behind the trees and 2m left of 'Three Course Meal'. It's mostly fused and hard! Stay off until complete.

Bouldery climbing on orange scoops. Please read the Bible to continuous improvement.

To access the start, scramble from the main ledge down to a lower tier.

Big features and good exposure. Starts a couple of metres left of small gumtree on ledge about 5m left of 'Wired'.

Great climbing, and deservedly popular. Starts 0.5m L of little tree.

Superb climbing on perfect rock which is slightly spoilt by the ledge midway up. Good training for 'Taipan'. The scene of a few tantrums as the moves are not obvious. Start slightly left of 'Tender Hooks'.

Good training for 'Taipan'. One of the bolts pulled out after Neil had dogged his way up this! It has since been replaced. Central rib feature with small rooflet down low about 5m left of 'The Big Payback'.

Links start of Tender Hooks into finish of Smörgåsbord. Offers sustained pumpy pleasure on immaculate orange rock.

Line of ringbolts starting 2m left of 'The Big Payback'. Finishes up 'On My Own'.

A funky set of moves on incredible quality rock. Starts at the little alcove on the far right side of the orange Upper Cut Lunch Wall ledge.

The short pocketed seam directly below 'Koalasquatsy'. Bouldery. Start below 'Koalasquatsy Wall'.

From the ledge keep going up wall above. Very bouldery!

Expect some big whips! A mystery single rusty bolt has been on this route for many years but remained un-claimed. Neil then climbed it all on trad graded it 22 and then attempted a repeat a week later with bolts and couldn't do the moves! It is now a sport route with an exciting finish. Starts about 2m right of Ooh Ooh Ahh Ahh at slab. Boulder up to first bolt, pump through horizontals then undercling up to shallow pockets and right facing flake. Now, launch for the top ledge! 4 UBs and lower-off. Last bolt is a desperate clip if you are short, best to climb Dry Spell and pre-place draws.

Stunning prominent orange arête that was strangely ignored by previous climbers. The prow with the undercut start 5m right of 'Us Esoterics'. Leap for jug, cut loose out right to arête. Bouldery moves up this on delightful dishes leads to easier climbing before final pumpy bulge. 7 bolts and double ring lower-off. Was originally led on two bolts but sense prevailed and now it’s a very pleasant sport outing.

A bit of faffing about to get climbing. Located on the far left end of the crag. To start the climb you need to rig a belay from ring bolts. Head down left side of void (facing VD Land) climb down trick void, bridge accross, clip bolt, unclip first bolt once the second is clipped, pull onto face and up left and up the orange wall.

A big low traverse left from the chockstone belay then up the grey juggy wall. Tricky mantle to finish.

Bouldery crux. First bolt of 'Back Stabbath' then slight left leading line which punches through a small orange shield of great rock. Bottom is a bit sandy.

The original route on the wall and probably the best. Featured steep wall climbing. Slight left trending route with a bouldery middle section on slopey holds. A mix of ubolts and fixed hangers.

Takes the black water streak with a super cool and unlikey jump move from make believe holds.

Quite a bouldery little number. Translation - it's a sandbag! Start at first bolt of LIT then climb straight up with a series of really tough sideclings and no feet. Nick Sutter fell off this.

Starts on the chockstone down in the slot. Very pleasant right trending wall climbing with a punchy pumpy finish.

One of the best easier sport routes in the 'Grampians'. Knob ridden terrain with a slight left trending line. Fixed hangers and lower-off.

Third route from the right on the wall on grey juggy rock - which actually isn't that juggy! Fixed hangers.

WATCH OUT FOR LEDGE FALL POTENTIAL! Up the wall through orange scoops to ledge. A long sling may help for bolt in cave otherwise rope drag may be an issue.

Bouldery start leads up edge of black groove to a rest. Cool finish up rib feature.

Imposing ringbolted wide crack on left end of 'Tribute Wall'. Luckily there is an abundance of jugs on either side of the crack to make it a nice stemming problem. Start on left side of pit. Step right to RB on right side of crack, then mantle onto ledge. 'Problematic' move up wide crack gains jugs on right wall, then easier (put steep!) climbing to top. 5 RBs and lower-off.

Steep climbing on big jugs. Nice, easy warm up.

A bouldery start, eases to good holds.

Fun little jug fest up the left side of the wall on a subtle arete. Starts 1.5m left of 'In Halen' at left edge of main wall.

Grey slightly overhung gritty wall climbing. This climb is a very good warm-up for harder routes in the area at it is pumpy with no sharp holds. Originally a trad route.

Excellent wall climb that was originally led (boldly) on trad gear. Start in the 'green', 3m left of 'By Jovi', directly below orange jug and very large pocket.

Fingery and sustained climbing with nigh all rests. Starts 4m left of Jet at central line of RB's up turtle shell featured wall.

Less sustained but cruxier than 'By Jovi'. Bolted route starting in front of small pine tree. Don't fall off between 2nd and 3rd - you will hit the boulder. Needs extra bolt !!

Starts up Jet for two bolts then veers right past 3 FH's to lower off. A little run out.

Was once dodgy piece of trad climbing - now retrobolted. Starts at the entrance to 'Tribute Wall', 10m before Jet. Boulder problem start then climbing eases quickly. There is an easier start to the right which makes the route a consistent 18.

The 18 Varient -Was once dodgy piece of trad climbing - now retrobolted. Starts at the entrance to 'Tribute Wall', 10m before Jet. Boulder problem start then climbing eases quickly. There is an easier start to the right which makes the route a consistent 18.

Starts 50m left of the dungeon. Near the access gully. Up very nice layback flakes to anchor.

New wave testpiece. Excellent sustained face climbing. 7 bolts to fixed biner lower off. The resident lunch-stealing critter is actually a bandicoot, not a bilby!

Watch the top out! A super route on gritty edges. To start, scramble up to the double fixed hangers, right of 'Curse of the Bilby'.

Your rope might get chewed to shreds when you lower off if you don't extend the anchor.

Climb to ledge. Move left to imposing black wall. Traverse left on knob style holds. Then up menacing headwall with just enough holds. Upgraded to reflect difficulty.

The central orange streak. Great moves. Was once a rap-in-climb-out affair, but it is now equipped to be started from ground level.

Can be approached from above via rap chains which are 30m north of 'Irritant Pollens' and below large boulder with tiny cave on south side.

TG direct finish. Might be 28

Start: Second route from the right side. Easily up jugs to ledge. Up black bulges and cross orange streak with cool moves for 4 bolts then traverse left to welcome rest jug. reach left to clip last bolt on 'Civil War' and finish up it.

A subtle jigsaw of movement.

Rising pocketed traverse on lower wall.

U-bolts up the blank slab just right of the jugs of Strong Social Conscience. Follow bolts up the slab to arête, trying to avoid going too far left into the chasm. A hard move at top of arête leads up the wall above. Finish at double U-bolt anchor.

Link up of RRR into RITH 22/23 Start up RRR till top of Arete and a U bolt leads you off right past another bolt to join RITH at its last bolt. interesting slab climbing and a better way to do RRR.

A 27 slab.

Starts on low arete 3m left of PJ. Moves left across face following 6FH's. Move left at 5FH where the slab blanks out, then up. A tad engaging.

Pumpy and a touch contrived at one point. Starts as Puddlejugs. Up for 7m to the exposed ledge on the arete (bring some trad if you want pro up to here). Clip high FH and thug up steep jugs on right side of arete and then onto the arete proper.

The right leading line of u-bolts leading to Revenge of the Chickens anchor.

Climb Left of the bolts at the 1st and 2nd bolt. Traverse right when your hands are level with 3rd bolt (essentially the lowest possible traverse line).

Warning : if you choose to climb up high then traverse right (the higher traverse line) you may not be able to clip the 3rd bolt, as this bolt will be positioned below your feet. At this point you are facing a ground fall.

The other best route on this cliff. Up CHH to bolt three, then traverse left across break and follow line of UB's up the increasingly difficult wall to runout finish. Double UB lower-off on ledge way up to the left.

Elegant face route in a similar vein to 'Diazepam'. Start 2m L of the black streak. Very thin start which eases considerably at the halfway point. At least six bolts and a double U-bolt lower off.

Clip first two bolts on Rage And Ruin. Step down and head diagonally left across the black streak and up the orange headwall past a further 4 bolts.

Best route on this wall. Nice face climbing with a pumpy surprise finish. Start at rightwards arching undercling flake.

Linkup that starts as for Rage and Ruin then links across undercling flake past 1 bolt to join the Rooster.

Start at the vertical seam and crimp like a fiend on the few edges that haven't yet been ripped off the wall. Follow the bolts to an exciting finale.

Just your regular crazy gramps stone.

10m left of 'Murder Psalm' is a flake crack which leads to a beautiful slab. Originally bolted by Roland Foster.

Strangely this was one of the first routes bolted here. Why they walked all this way for one climb is pretty strange. Overhung blocky corner with two FH's on the blank slab above.

Start: Starts 10m left of 'Physical Graffiti'.

Controversial bolted corner crack, with plenty of suss rock. Not a bad warm-up but far from a classic.

Start: Rusty-coloured corner 20m left of base of Pocketed Wall and 10m right of 'Murder Psalm'. Scramble up to a DBB at base of corner.

Logical 2 bolt finish to top of cliff

Left leaning line of FHs 10m left of 'Terminal Insomnia'. Either stickclip first bolt or lean over from pinnacle. Burly traverse leads to technical climbing on gritty pockets. Motor up short corner to a climatic finish. Upgraded

Start as Ocean Rain for a few bolts then go directly up thin grey wall.

Shares a couple of moves with TI

One of the best sport route of this grade in the Grampians. Brilliant, but unfortunately it seeps very heavily after rain.

Starts just left of black streak on far left end of the Pocketed Wall. Scramble up and place a sling thread for safety before the first bolt and belay from there or else directly from the bottom. Rebolted 2023 (with a couple of retrobolts added in the final section).