Routes in Millennium Caves

Short but action-packed crimpiness.

Start: Start 5m R of 'Reckless Mind'.

Takes SFON past 3 bolts. Then direct up trad weakness.

Very bouldery start leads to obvious pocket line. In cave.

Looks like a fun bit of steep thugging.

Start: This is the route on its own in the cave you get to before the main area.

The rounded arete just R of Floating Cloud

Starts in the middle of the wall off a flake. Straight up then veer left.

Nice. Follow the same line as 'Blabber Mouth' until it steepens then move diagonally left to finish.

take the obvious central line to where it steepens, with a hard move near the top.

Up the face 1 metre left of 'Time In Memorial' to the horizonatl traverse left to the top.

Start as for 'Blabber Mouth' but move across the opening of the cave. Pull through overlap to finish.

Another great looking roof. The usual warning applies: there's only a single bolt between you and the ground at times.

Start a few metres L of Labyrinths.

Out the roof trending R, crossing Labyrinths a few metres before the lip.

The prime line through this gorgeous red-roofed cave. Possibly even 3 stars. The usual warning applies: there's only a single bolt between you and the ground at times.

Start in the base of the cave.

Straight out the red roof then hard moves to the left before the lip.

Maybe a bit contrived but still damn good fun. You'd be forgiven for thinking the route was named after the striking unusual kidney shaped plate of rock it follows. But by some bizarre and unfortunate coincidence, Bob happened to pass some actual kidney stones while sending it! Stretched urethra anyone? Ouccchhh!

Start R of the cave.

Up to the lip then traverse L along the lip. Impressively pumpy for the grade! At one point you might take a nasty pendulum if you come off - this has resulted in at least one dislocated kneecap.

Designed to be climbed as a quite scary sport route, but rumour has it there is the odd trad piece to sanitise it a little. No anchor...clean it how you wish! There is a piker's variant which goes at 27 by traversing a little higher than shown when you're about 15m into the traverse. Line 18a in the topo shows a grade 25 trad variant done by Matt Adams.

Start: Start on the boulder on the R edge of the huge cave, on the R side of the 2nd tier.

A very impressive line blasting out the biggest part of this massive overhang, on beautiful red stone. The usual warning applies: there's only a single bolt between you and the ground at times.

Start as for Nomads.

Start as for Nomads but stay on the hanging arete/nose, then follow the line of holds rightwards and outwards forever.

A whole new route without a single extra bolt!

Start as for Red Vinyl.

Extends Red Vinyl to the lip. No more bolts, although it does now have it's own anchor. Make sure you clip the last bolt on Red Vinyl then drop back down right, up, then back left to the crux. You need an alert belayer once you're out near the lip.

A red fixed hanger and a glue-reinforced flake can be found on this line.

Start: Start 10m L of 'Five Spice'

Climbs the inside of the tunnel feature just R of Nomads. It looks a bit obscure but is very good.

Start as for Nomads.

Up Nomads to its 1st bolt then a perplexing move right into the tunnel to the undercling rail. Tough clip of 3rd bolt (long draw helps), then tough steep moves into roof finish.

This beautifully coloured wall is unfortunately quite cruxy...but people still seem to like it.

Start 5m R of Floating Cloud.

Trend L then hard moves back right to jug. From 3rd bolt head STAIGHT UP past crimp boulder (crux) to jugs atop arete. Follow jugs to anchor.

The other competitor for the most impressive line here, although it doesn't get as many stars. Yet to receive a 2nd ascent.

Start near the lonely boulder about 15m R of Bwana.

Up from the left to gain the faint arete then move R and up the steep grey face to the top.

Boulderers will love this.

Start about 8m R of Nomads.

Jumpy moves up and R to the steep hanging prow, the gap above the 2nd bolt will give you more than enough of an airy feeling for such a short route.

Looks like a pissy little link up but it was actually done before Aging 'Gigolo'.

Start: Start as for 'The Floating Cloud'

Looks like a pissy little link up but it was actually done before Aging Gigolo.

Start up The Floating Cloud then move left into Aging Gigolo.

One of three truly gobsmacking lines out to the very top of this humungous cave, but it takes some stuffing around to get started.

Starts from the ledge above Bwana (you can avoid actually climbing Bwana by simply stick clipping it's anchor!).

At first it takes the major cliff-splitting seam, then the left fork, passing the hueco with guano, and finishing up the grey streak above the top roof. Has 3 bolts, spacey runouts, and a new anchor.

Great rock and some nice moves, but it's a shame about the rest ledges ruining the middle section.

Start at the R end of the wall at a well chalked low hanging prow.

Bouldery start, then purists should stay L on the prow and avoid the big rests. Nice moves to finish.

Now retroed with 3 bolts and a rap anchor. It's best not to lower off the anchor because it's over the top and will probably trash your rope. Abseil or back jump.

Start: Start about 50m L of where you scramble up from the Main Cave.

The best "moderate" route here. Nomads to the large matching hueco, watch out for the run out.

Careful on the runout finish.

Start in the left of the main cave, a few metres left of Nomads.

5 bolts to finish in the middle of nowhere. Lower off the last or back clean it. The finish is fairly juggy but you really wouldn't want to blow the last clip.

Roof climbers rave about this one. Steep jugging to a few hard moves at the end. Unfortunately once again the bolt spacing warrants caution.

Start down the very back of the left end of the main cave.

7 bolts to rap anchor. There's almost groundfall potential at the 5th and 6th bolts, and also beware the block behind you at the last bolt.

Quite close to Nomads but it still looks great. The usual warning applies about having only a single bolt between you and the ground at times.

Start as for Nomads.

Break R from Nomads after the 1st bolt, then follow the line of holds 1.5m R of Nomads. It's a shame it finishes in the middle of nowhere at the last bolt a few metres before the lip. There's no anchor - either trust the ring or back-clean it.

Dual Fuel? Jule Fuel? Who knows how it's meant to be spelt. The usual warning applies: there's only a single bolt between you and the ground at times.

Start as for Nomads / Red Vinyl

Start as for Red Vinyl then link into Breathing Gasoline after about 9m. This eliminates the rest on Breathing Gasoline, making this route rather more sustained! For the record, on 26/4/09, not really knowing what went where, Mike Patz sent a similar link-up at the same sort of grade, this time starting up the first few bolts of Nomads then finishing up Breathing Gasoline.

2nd bolt added to anchor 2017

Start: Start at the cute little orange face tucked away on a boulder just right of the walking track, approx 40m before you hit the 'Five Spice' cave.

Extension of 'Tunnel to Caracas' .

Climb all of 'Tunnel to Caracas' then continue up the seam above to join into 'Fat and Sassy' just before it takes the left fork in the seam. Finish up the runout top section of 'Fat and Sassy' to the top of the cave.

Rebolted / made sane in 2017. This is a great line & deserves repeats!

Pumpy fun for the kids who aren't up to Breathing Gasoline. A good find as this cave is under-endowed in the 25-27 bracket.

Start as for Breathing Gasoline.

Up Breathing Gasoline for 5 bolts then traverse R to the anchors of Tunnel to Caracas. To ensure all possible permutations and combinations are covered, no doubt the 'megaclassic' extension into Tunnel Vision will follow soon.