Routes in Mother Buttress

Short compact wall above conifer and just right of big chimney. Step right just below top.

Right end of wall right of High In The Saddle, just left of arete.

Left-leaning seam on steep, compact wall at right end of face. Right from seam onto slab. Finish on terrace.

Arete right of I Need My Mother.

Middle of slab round right of Puppy Love.

Excellent wall climbing. Starts 5m left of I Need My Mother on south facing wall of Mother Buttress. Easily up for five metres to horizontal. Clip BR and layback up little reachy flake to gain line. Weave up jugs, flakes and cracks past a further two BRs and lots of good wire placements to slabby top-out. Rap off double U-bolts on ledge (25m).

Neil had this cleaned and bolted before anyone else got out of bed. A slightly easier trad finish to Blunted Enthusiasm. After the second UB take the left line (RB) to thin crack. Finish up well protected wall about 2m left of Blunted Enthusiasm. Rap from anchor on ledge above Split Decision.

‘Turtle-shell’ wall climbing. A very runout sport route or a very safe ‘mixed’ climb. Starts 5 metres left of Split Decision. Up easy slab to horizontal. Balance up seam (UB) and then blast up jugs to stance. Take the right bolted line past a further three UBs to top. A limited selection of large wires and medium cams can supplement the bolts. Rap from anchor on ledge above Split Decision.

Well bolted warm-up for The Gallery. RBs up right side of main bolted wall. Slabby start, pumpy end finishing up right to anchors. Below average height climbers won't be able to reach the second bolt while standing on the ledge and will need trad, stick clip or risk a ground fall.