Ascents in Taipan Wall - North

The only route that means anything now. One day it’ll go

An awesome intro to Taipan, heady and gymnastic

Pls give my cams back if you get them out : (

The stuff dreams are made of

Moves felt much cruisier when not on day 6. Half a move away from getting it in one hang the following day. P.S pls give my cams back if you get them out : (

Always a special experience to knock out a hard Taipan classic. This is something special for sure - pretty nails first move then ultra-sustained, unique scoop climbing to the top of the wall. They don’t get much better. Definitely 29 in my book, probably even at the upper end of the grade.

Pondered the crux for far too long but was a fun climb

First time on Taipan wall and was such an awesome time.

Stumped by the little mingers on the crux...

Couldn't get my grey nut out of the flake : (

Had a ball, top roped to first bolt to check the moves for the runout, and lead rest to top. All the moves are ok. Second shot pink pointing blasted off the last hold of runout and took the mega whip. 3rd shot got the runout and kept my head. Gonna be an epic route to work. A true welcome to taipan climbing

start was a mish, maybe rap in and hanging belay next time? climbed on doubles and rope drag still ended up being horrendous but climbing wasnt too bad. incredible route, will be back again

Did the Father O - Sirocco link up. Absolutely Stella line and felt like a proper first tiapan experience, mega whips and a large bit of sketch included.

Awesome moves!! Very keen to come back to get this clean

Put it away this time. Stoked

Absolutely chuffed for my first pinkpoint! Bit of a mini-adventure with the faff and setup, but amazing climbing the rest of the way!

Forgot the final sequence and fell off about 3 moves from the glory jug on the first redpoint attempt, taking a huge whipper. Epic

Whimped it and jumped off onto the bolt. That one move is quite hard

was exhausted the first time i tried and took the whip of destiny trying to clip the bolt after the runout. So good!

Second shot after pumping out 2 moves before reaching easier ground on my onsight go. An immaculate climb, in my Taipan top 3 with Rage/Serp. Bears comparison with Archimedes' Principle. I though the aid requirement might detract from the experience but not at all. It was outrageous pulling under the hanging arete before establishing on good holds and turning the corner. Then there's 20 metres of perfect face climbing, decent holds the whole way but no really nice stances to place gear so you're on your arms the entire time.

It's bold for sure, I ran it out probably 6m through the most strenuous section on both the onsight and redpoint attempts. I could've placed another piece, maybe 2, but you'd need pretty wild endurance to stick around and do so. Let out a guttural yell on sticking the not-quite-a-jug that marked the end of the crux section & was almost too pumped to pull the last couple of moves to the horizontal break and easier ground above.

10/10, mega classic, would be worth the faff to pre-place gear if the ground-up approach doesn't appeal. Psyched!

2nd go. not sure it’s any harder than Father Oblivion… crux went down 3rd attempt with a high right foot and a pogo.

So worth the faff to set this up. Confident to lead it next time I think

Some fun jugging. Got a bit lost at the end lol

Started via the first two bolts of Father O. Makes for a more consistent route - at least that’s what I’m telling myself until I figure out the crux!

All the moves have gone. Still need to get my head in the game to commit the the second crux. Excited to spend some more time on this.

Account has been opened!

Hard sport climbing par excellence. They simply do not get better. 12 days work since the middle of August. Definitely a sandbag, I’d give it hard 29 to the break where it meets Serpentine, with a pumpy 27 to the top. Maybe close to 31?