Grade | Route | Gear style | Quality | Climber | Date | |||
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Muline Crag | ||||||||
24 | ★★ Malcolms Upper Route (Malcolm's 24+ (Upper Right Tier)) | 15m | ★★ Very Good | Sun 4th May 2003 | ||||
Even Malcolm can't remember what he called it! Short but way steep. Awesome position.
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23 | ★ Nothing Lasts Forever - with Kent Paterson | 8m | ★ Good | Sun 26th Mar 2017 | ||||
Steep. Some great hugs on this one.
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23 24 | ★★ Munro Street | 15m | ★★ Very Good | Mon 5th May 2014 | ||||
Epic warm-up flash pump! Sloper-slapping and heel-hooking forever up super-obvious feature, very pumpy and funky. Linking this into the finish of Sullivan Street makes for a rather exciting finale. I had another shot at the end of the day, but by then the top half was actually wet and I didn't have a hope in the world.
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23 24 | ★★ Munro Street | 15m | ★★ Very Good | Mon 5th May 2014 | ||||
Nice one Kent. A bit pumpy for a warm up but great climbing. A poor mans eye of the tiger.
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23 24 | ★★ Munro Street | 15m | ★★ Very Good | Tue 28th Jul 2015 | ||||
Good to clean up this old dog from over a year ago, first shot today, though in similar conditions to when I was last here (that is to say: damp). Great, super pumpy, sloper traverse climbing that is as entertaining to climb as it is awful to clean. Thanks Scott for seconding it. A good warmup for... um... everything else at the crag.
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23 24 | ★★ Munro Street | 15m | Wed 18th May 2016 | |||||
Really struggled on this.
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24 | ★★ Munro Street | 15m | ★ Good | Sun 11th Jun 2017 | ||||
AWESOME!! Super cool climb!
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24 | ★★ Munro Street | 15m | ★★ Very Good | Sun 18th Mar 2018 | ||||
great warm up
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24 | ★★ Munro Street | 15m | ★★ Very Good | Wed 17th Oct 2018 | ||||
Warm up with Mitch. Good to see this has grown in popularity. Good fun
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24 | ★★ Munro Street - with Jason Smith | 15m | ★★★ Mega Classic | Wed 17th Oct 2018 | ||||
Great warm up at the crag. Deserves more stars and should be named eye of the kitten!
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24 | ★★ Munro Street | 15m | ★★★ Classic | Wed 17th Oct 2018 | ||||
Slipped off the start, came down and to the top. Such a cool line. Pumped!
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24 | ★★ Munro Street - with Jason McCarthy | 15m | ★★ Very Good | Wed 17th Oct 2018 | ||||
Great climb and great feature but I got very very pumped! I shall return.
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24 | ★★ Munro Street | 15m | ★★★ Classic | Thu 18th Oct 2018 | ||||
Surprisingly awesome.
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24 | ★★ Munro Street | 15m | ★★ Very Good | Wed 17th Oct 2018 | ||||
Pretty ideal warm up for EOTT really, the traverse part anyway. Great climb!
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24 | ★★ Munro Street - with Tim Carne | 15m | ★ Good | Sun 11th Nov 2018 | ||||
Very enjoyable to do it. Not so much on cleaning
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24 | ★★ Munro Street | 15m | ★★ Very Good | Sat 1st Dec 2018 | ||||
Pump fest
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26 | ★ Sullivan Street | 15m | Sun 23rd Nov 2003 | |||||
My first 26 in a day (2nd shot)
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26 | ★ Sullivan Street | 15m | ★★ Very Good | Sat 5th Jun 2004 | ||||
Got some very bad beta from Joe, never listen to Joe...
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26 | ★ Sullivan Street | 15m | Mon 12th Sep 2016 | |||||
Bit of a play at the start boulder. Too short to do the powerful span past the crux, too tall to bouldery it out with the shorty sequence.
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26 | ★ Sullivan Street | 15m | Mon 26th Jun 2017 | |||||
Easy enough, except for one desperate crux move.
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26 | ★ Sullivan Street - with thara | 15m | ★ Good | Sun 10th Sep 2017 | ||||
Could go past the bouldery start
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26 | ★ Sullivan Street | 15m | ★ Good | Wed 25th Jul 2018 | ||||
Waited years for a good flash go... failed miserably haha. 2nd shot. V. Avg conditions today. Went backwards on wild orchids
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30 | ★★★ Wild Orchids | 17m | ★★★ Classic | Sat 20th Jun 2015 | ||||
End of the day demolition. Did all the moves through the crux. Awesome!!
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30 | ★★★ Wild Orchids | 17m | ★★★ Classic | Thu 12th Jul 2018 | ||||
Sweeet. Feeling super solid on the crux, will link from the ground soon. Upper headwall is harder than expected. Couple of very tricky moves after a long section on slopes.2 sits. Happy for first day effort.
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30 | ★★★ Wild Orchids | 17m | ★★★ Classic | Sat 14th Jul 2018 | ||||
Progress. Linked from the ground through crux to bolt 4, then to the top. The headwall is still hard and pumpy and exciting. Will be back soon.
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31 30 | ★★★ Demon Flower (Daemon Flower) | 25m, 6 | ★★★ Classic | Mon 7th Jul 2014 | ||||
refresher. did all the moves before I hurt my back. Can't wait to send this crimpy test piece
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31 30 | ★★★ Demon Flower (Daemon Flower) | 25m, 6 | ★★★ Classic | Sat 26th Jul 2014 | ||||
I set this a little goal in my head when I started climbing again after 18 months of. First day back on and so psyched. Sorted all the moves and very solid links. I can do this route!!!
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31 30 | ★★★ Demon Flower (Daemon Flower) | 25m, 6 | ★★★ Classic | Sun 24th Aug 2014 | ||||
Some progress and refinement. New beta for first crux, 1-2 more moves, but much more solid. Good link from below 2nd crux to the top.
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31 30 | ★★★ Demon Flower (Daemon Flower) | 25m, 6 | ★★★ Classic | Sun 14th Sep 2014 | ||||
Yay for new beta. First lap today went bolt to bolt without a single fall. All moves solid as a rock!
2nd go, got a highpoint, falling of in the 2nd crux and managed the hard clip. Imagine if I hadn't been sick all week and had actually trained in the last 2 weeks. |
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31 30 | ★★★ Demon Flower | 25m, 6 | ★★★ Classic | Sun 21st Jun 2015 | ||||
Getting reacquainted. Easy getting the draws in, not enough PE for linkage. So damn cold
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31 30 | ★★★ Demon Flower | 25m, 6 | ★★★ Classic | Sat 4th Jul 2015 | ||||
Aww man so close. Fell of last hard move. Not over there but you'd be in with a damn good chance to send. Alas my finger is now pretty damn sore.
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31 30 | ★★★ Demon Flower | 25m, 6 | ★★★ Classic | Sun 3rd Jun 2018 | ||||
Great to get back on this and see progression. 2 new high points today and only 4-5 moves to go. Felt solid on all moves. Great winter proj.
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31 30 | ★★★ Demon Flower | 25m, 6 | ★★★ Classic | Wed 6th Jun 2018 | ||||
One move higher. Stuck the sloper but too gassed to bump. Happy with that on 3rd shot of the day. Doing the link from bolt 4 to the top consistently after falling. Enjoy the process philby.
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31 30 | ★★★ Demon Flower | 25m, 6 | ★★★ Classic | Sat 9th Jun 2018 | ||||
In the words of Joey-O... and klem.... "Alone in a big room."
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27 | ★★★ Desert Rose | 30m, 8 | Tue 29th Sep 2009 | |||||
Couldn't figure crux beta. Had to phone a friend.
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27 | ★★★ Desert Rose | 30m, 8 | ★★★ Classic | Thu 1st Oct 2009 | ||||
Thanks CRUX mag beta. [4]
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27 | ★★★ Desert Rose | 30m, 8 | ★★★ Classic | Sat 29th Apr 2006 | ||||
1 rest, needed another day, as I just got the knee roll crux move sorted, boo hoo hoo. I'll be back for this STOUT Gem!! [2]
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27 | ★★★ Desert Rose | 30m, 8 | ★★★ Mega Classic | Wed 27th Jul 2005 | ||||
WOW!!!!! It'l go...
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27 | ★★★ Desert Rose | 30m, 8 | Thu 1st Oct 2009 | |||||
To top
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27 | ★★★ Desert Rose | 30m, 8 | Thu 1st Oct 2009 | |||||
Redpoint burn. Failed on crux.
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27 | ★★★ Desert Rose | 30m, 8 | ★★ Very Good | Mon 5th May 2014 | ||||
Not sure if this tuff unit is the best 27 in the grampains but it is good. Got up the the crux but in shit conditions it was proving to hard to climb past so a bailed. Next time..?
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27 | ★★★ Desert Rose | 30m, 8 | ★★ Very Good | Tue 28th Jul 2015 | ||||
2 shots. GREAT climbing, but ridiculously cruxy. Between a 2-move crux that is 3 grades harder than anything else on this route, and the rubbish equipping (trad is fine, but carrot bolt, fixed wire, mangled hangers and no anchor?) I could never call this Classic. Outside of the first 2 moves of the crux, the climbing is classy, outrageous, improbable and stylish. All the HALLMARKS of a classic. I never truly managed to do the crux sequence as a SEQUENCE but cruised (and loved) the rest.
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27 | ★★★ Desert Rose | 30m, 8 | ★★ Very Good | Sun 11th Sep 2016 | ||||
3 shots today. Got most of it dialled but cant QUITE do the crux, as 4 times out of 5 my heel skates out mid-sequence. With a TINY bit of rope tension at the start of the sequence (to set the heel) I can do it okay... just gotto sort that heel.
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27 | ★★★ Desert Rose | 30m, 8 | ★★ Very Good | Mon 12th Sep 2016 | ||||
One more lap. Everything else but the crux is sorted... but no improvement on the crux... I give up. Great climbing. Stupidly cruxy and sandbagged. Rubbish bolting and the gear is annoying. Not 3 stars for the gramps, nor even for muline.
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27 | ★★★ Desert Rose - with Troy | 30m, 8 | ★★★ Classic | Thu 13th Apr 2017 | ||||
AHHHHH the move still eludes me. The rest of the route is great and about 24 ish
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27 | ★★★ Desert Rose | 30m, 8 | ★★★ Classic | Fri 21st Apr 2017 | ||||
Couldn't even conceive doing the heel crux on last years trip, but stoked to put it together this time. Prolonged the Gramps trip one more day to brave 50mm rain to get the send after punting off the last throw the day before.
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28 27 | ★★★ Desert Rose | 30m, 8 | ★★★ Classic | Fri 8th Dec 2017 | ||||
28 with the top pitch (which is a must do) is about right in my opinion
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27 | ★★★ Desert Rose - with Brent | 30m, 8 | ★★★ Mega Classic | Fri 14th Sep 2018 | ||||
Lowered at crux.
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27 | ★★★ Desert Rose - with Brent | 30m, 8 | ★★★ Mega Classic | Fri 14th Sep 2018 | ||||
Crux is brutal.
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27 | ★★★ Desert Rose - with Brent | 30m, 8 | ★★★ Mega Classic | Fri 14th Sep 2018 | ||||
Some linkage, could maybe see this going except for the crux at this point. Need to get stronger! Great climbing
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27 | ★★★ Desert Rose | 30m, 8 | ★★ Very Good | Wed 17th Oct 2018 | ||||
Didnt pull the crux move but its all great climbing, not inspired above the ledge.
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27 | ★★★ Desert Rose | 30m, 8 | Mon 1st Oct 2018 | |||||
#2go Nice bit of rock climbing right there. Go to the top!
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24 24 R | ★★ After Midnight Pitch 2 | 15m, 4 | ★★ Very Good | Mon 7th Nov 2016 | ||||
Perfect warm up for the eye
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23 | ★★ Pocket Full of Dreams | 25m, 2 | ★★★ Mega Classic | Mon 16th Feb 2004 | ||||
Mega hard bouldery start. Super classic headwall finish which is simply AMAZING!
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23 | ★★ Pocket Full of Dreams | 25m, 2 | ★ Good | Sat 1st Apr 2006 | ||||
1 1/2 move wonder
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23 | ★★ Pocket Full of Dreams | 25m, 2 | ★ Good | Sat 5th Jun 2004 | ||||
Very tricky start!!! Took me ages to find the sequence, and then took a 6 metre whipper on a cam, never forget this one.
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23 | ★★ Pocket Full of Dreams | 25m, 2 | ★ Good | Fri 12th Aug 2005 | ||||
Bouldery start. A bitof fun.
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23 | ★★ Pocket Full of Dreams | 25m, 2 | ★★★ Classic | Sun 4th May 2003 | ||||
Had done it before (19.0.01)
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23 | ★★ Pocket Full of Dreams | 25m, 2 | ★★ Very Good | Sat 29th Apr 2006 | ||||
Great climb for a wet day.
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23 | ★★ Pocket Full of Dreams | 25m, 2 | Average | Sat 29th Apr 2006 | ||||
Steely start then good gear and a head spacey finish.
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23 | ★★ Pocket Full of Dreams | 25m, 2 | Tue 13th Apr 2010 | |||||
Scared the absolute fuck out of me
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23 | ★★ Pocket Full of Dreams | 25m, 2 | Don't Bother | Tue 21st Sep 2004 | ||||
What were they thinking when they bolted this???? Very ordinary climb.
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23 | ★★ Pocket Full of Dreams | 25m, 2 | ★★ Very Good | Thu 1st Oct 2009 | ||||
Hard start, fantastic finish. Needs a rebolt..
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23 | ★★ Pocket Full of Dreams | 25m, 2 | ★★ Very Good | Wed 9th Apr 2014 | ||||
Flashy Flash
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23 | ★★ Pocket Full of Dreams | 25m, 2 | ★★★ Mega Classic | Mon 5th May 2014 | ||||
On JengA's gear at the top. Balked at the start on the flash attempt (1m off the ground) like a pussy, then cruised it 3 seconds later. Desperately thin footwork at the start (and probably bouldery if you're short) leads to runout trad bliss up the corner and out onto the fake to the anchors. The slightly wet thin holds at the top added a dose of spice. A true old-school classic. The first 2 bolts have now been replaced with rings... Thank god!
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23 | ★★ Pocket Full of Dreams | 25m, 2 | ★★★ Classic | Mon 5th May 2014 | ||||
Very good line and I am very glad the the first bolt has been replaced. Its all about trust in your rubber on the start the trust in your hands on the damp holds at the top of the run out.
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23 | ★★ Pocket Full of Dreams | 25m, 2 | 2012 | |||||
cant remember if we did this or not, I know we were looking at it...
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23 | ★★ Pocket Full of Dreams - with Julian Goad | 25m, 2 | ★★ Very Good | Fri 11th Mar 2016 | ||||
Clean after a sit getting off the ground.
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23 | ★★ Pocket Full of Dreams - with Gwen Shoemaker | 25m, 2 | ★★ Very Good | Tue 31st May 2016 | ||||
The start requires trust in rubber, the end trust in gear. Quite an intimidating package all in all. Must have climbed up and down almost 5 times before committing to the final moves.
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23 | ★★ Pocket Full of Dreams - with Chris Fox, Stefan D'Agostino | 25m, 2 | ★★ Very Good | Fri 30th Sep 2016 | ||||
Really liked this. Genuine onsight if you count all the times I slid back down to the ground on the first move as not falling ... two hard moves low, then nothing surprising to the top, although the last bit above your gear (a couple of small cams and/or small wires in the last horizontal break) make it exciting.
For reference, I did 3 routes this trip (this (23), Krankendangle (24) and Eye of the Tiger (29)), and the start of this is harder than anything on either of the other two routes. It doesn't make it bad though - better at the start than the last move ! |
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23 | ★★ Pocket Full of Dreams - with Will Monks | 25m, 2 | ★★★ Classic | Sat 25th Mar 2017 | ||||
Super cool route
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23 | ★★ Pocket Full of Dreams - with Riley | 25m, 2 | ★★ Very Good | Mon 24th Apr 2017 | ||||
Took a big fall below the anchor on two good cams i placed a few meters below. Went way easier next shot, knowing what the top is like
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23 | ★★ Pocket Full of Dreams | 25m, 2 | Mon 24th Apr 2017 | |||||
Sport Lead
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23 | ★★ Pocket Full of Dreams | 25m, 2 | Mon 26th Jun 2017 | |||||
Fell off the first move, otherwise insight.
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23 | ★★ Pocket Full of Dreams - with thara | 25m, 2 | ★★ Very Good | Sat 9th Sep 2017 | ||||
Took me a couple of tries to do the start.
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23 | ★★ Pocket Full of Dreams | 25m, 2 | Wed 13th Sep 2017 | |||||
a beautiful line. i seconded Rene, but in (overconfident) hind-site believe i could have got it. Crux is definitely the low boulder problem which is protected by a stick clip. i found the move reaching around onto the face off a finger lock tricky, but thats because i'm a kook with anything crack related.
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23 | ★★ Pocket Full of Dreams | 25m, 2 | ★★ Very Good | Wed 13th Jun 2018 | ||||
Would love to come back and place gear on this.
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23 | ★★ Pocket Full of Dreams | 25m, 2 | ★★ Very Good | Wed 25th Jul 2018 | ||||
Fell off the first move twice then did it and flashed the rest. Hard start for 23, but then there's a great rest, and the rest is easy for the grade, so sure 23.
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23 | ★★ Pocket Full of Dreams - with Brent, mark, Amanda, Michelle | 25m, 2 | Sun 9th Sep 2018 | |||||
Hard start to easy commiting Finish.
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7a 23 | ★★ Pocket Full of Dreams | 25m, 2 | ★ Good | Sat 29th Sep 2018 | ||||
My first mixed route, gear pre-placed by Ben (thank you!).
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23 | ★★ Pocket Full of Dreams | 25m, 2 | ★★★ Classic | Wed 17th Oct 2018 | ||||
Nice warm down route after you do the first moves
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23 | ★★ Pocket Full of Dreams - with Jason Smith | 25m, 2 | Wed 17th Oct 2018 | |||||
Freaking hard start, to run our coolness!
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23 | ★★ Pocket Full of Dreams | 25m, 2 | ★★ Very Good | Wed 17th Oct 2018 | ||||
The boulder problem start is not a good warmup, pulled through and clean to the top. Should of stuck with it.
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23 | ★★ Pocket Full of Dreams - with Lucas C, Jason McCarthy | 25m, 2 | ★★★ Classic | Wed 17th Oct 2018 | ||||
Totally rad. Punted the initial boulder which was nails and then came down and went clean to the top. Really fun trad climbing. The first two bolts had draws on them but I placed all the trads.
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23 | ★★ Pocket Full of Dreams | 25m, 2 | ★★ Very Good | Wed 17th Oct 2018 | ||||
Done on pre-placed gear, bouldery start to juggy finale
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29 | ★★★ Eye Of The Tiger | 25m, 10 | ★★★ Mega Classic | Sun 22nd Apr 2007 | ||||
Incredible!!
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29 | ★★★ Eye Of The Tiger | 25m, 10 | Mon 28th Sep 2009 | |||||
Shattered, couldn't dog to top
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29 | ★★★ Eye Of The Tiger | 25m, 10 | Mon 28th Sep 2009 | |||||
Did the drop down, but fell getting to the lip.
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29 | ★★★ Eye Of The Tiger | 25m, 10 | ★★★ Mega Classic | Sat 10th Nov 2007 | ||||
Wow. Three or four more years of training and I might get close to ticking this one
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29 | ★★★ Eye Of The Tiger | 25m, 10 | Tue 29th Sep 2009 | |||||
Fell on last draw. 9 moves to top.
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29 | ★★★ Eye Of The Tiger | 25m, 10 | ★★★ Mega Classic | Tue 27th Jan 2009 | ||||
Refined some moves, got really pumped. My hip hurts, i must be getting old.
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29 | ★★★ Eye Of The Tiger | 25m, 10 | Tue 29th Sep 2009 | |||||
Warm up lap to drop down move, then work section to lip..
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29 | ★★★ Eye Of The Tiger | 25m, 10 | ★★★ Classic | Wed 22nd Jun 2005 | ||||
Cleaning route after Stefan's onsight. I pulled on carabiner in roof through crux and had rests after crux. Would like to come back to this one!!
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29 | ★★★ Eye Of The Tiger | 25m, 10 | Thu 1st Oct 2009 | |||||
Just a final burn for fun. Fell on undercling lip move.
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29 | ★★★ Eye Of The Tiger | 25m, 10 | ★★★ Mega Classic | Sun 28th Jan 2007 | ||||
29
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29 | ★★★ Eye Of The Tiger | 25m, 10 | Mon 28th Sep 2009 | |||||
Bolt to bolt
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29 | ★★★ Eye Of The Tiger | 25m, 10 | Mon 1st May 2006 | |||||
my first grade 30 clip!,
chicks are soooo going to dig me! |
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29 | ★★★ Eye Of The Tiger | 25m, 10 | Tue 29th Sep 2009 | |||||
15min rest then redpoint burn. Fell at lip on undercling move. 3 bolts to top. Lower.
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29 | ★★★ Eye Of The Tiger | 25m, 10 | ★★★ Mega Classic | Sat 16th Jun 2012 | ||||
spent a couple weekends on this route so far. magical! currently pumping out just before the first rest (heel hook). approx date.
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29 | ★★★ Eye Of The Tiger | 25m, 10 | ★★★ Mega Classic | Sun 29th Jan 2012 | ||||
Muline is the breast
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