Routes as sport in Red Rock Pinnacles

Start 3m right of No Habla Espanol. Takes the unlikely arête feature.

Technical slabby crimpers. Starts 3m left of 'No Habla Espanol'.

Starts 2m left of Vertebrae. Pumpy underclings and nigh all footholds keep the juices flowing in the forearms. An interesting assortment of bolting technology adorns this climb. Five FH's and a u-bolt loweroff. A large wire could be useful between bolts one and two.

A great novelty warm-up. The route climbs the 'backbone' scoopy arete of the uphill side of the pillar past four FH's. Getting past the ever growing tree could be the crux! Rap off double rings.

Up Verterbrae to 4th bolt then step delicatly right onto arete and around onto face (FH). Desperate move up small edges to good finger lock finish. DRB lower-off.

Overheating sport fun for summer. Thin climbing up short rounded arete opposite 'Vertabrae'. Three FHs to double ring belay.

Start 3m right of Spanish Sahara. Start from ground off large boulders, hard moves up and over bulge then up face using right arête and face holds to double ring bolt anchor.

Start as for 1st bolt of Spanish Sahara. Up right passing bolt to vague arete, up arete passing another bolt to Spanish Sahara double ring anchor.

On the ledge directly behind Conflict of Interest. Stick clip first bolt, bridge tree for 1 metre until gaining good holds in seam. Move up via thin incuts to 2nd bolt, tricky traverse left to good holds and up to double ring lower offs.

Start directly below the 2nd bolt of Spanish Sahara from the ground. Either boulder it out to 2nd bolt or stick clip.

A much better way onto the Think You Can Dance arete via the orange face around right. Start just left of large suspended block, 3m left of Strike The First Blow and 2m right of the left arete.

On the east face in the chasm proper. Starts from large suspended chock-stone bridge. Three FH's up rounded rib leads to jug. Traverse right along break past large wire placement and FH then head straight up (FH) to chain. Route was originally climbed direct from the last FH instead of traversing off to the right on 'cheat' jugs.

Scoopy steep sport route. Starts below suspended chockstone belay of STFB on backside of northern pinnacle. Up into scoop and over rooflet then easily up jugs to tricky step right onto small ledge. Blast straight up orange overhung wall above to horizontal break and finish up left past the last FH of STFB to its rap chain. 6 RBs.

The rising line of bulges and ring bolts. Very shady!

Extension of A Bolt Too Far

Zig zagging seam on orange bulging north face about 10m right of 'Static Ticking Rampage'. The last great line of Red Rocks? Five years in the making after an aborted bolting attempt by Nick and Neil in 2001. Stickclip then batman up to first UB (or attempt the V10+ direct start!) Rightwards along very sloping rail then blast straight up bugling seam above. 6 UBs and double ring lower-off.

Long admired - now climbed! The u-bolted flared shiny orange crack on the west face of the Northern Pinnacle about 5m right of 'Hamstrung'. Brutal fingerlocks to start then up short reachy corner. Campus right along slick break to final crimpy face finish. Sustained. 6 bolts and lower-off.

Outrageous climbing. Starts as Redbacks pitch 2. After second RB veer left to obvious rest ledge on arête. Follow line of RB's left up the stunning rock on hidden pockets and edges. Rest in corner then power up steep finale. Recommend backclimb to clean. Extending first 3 draws is recommended. We used the following (1st RB 60cm, 2nd RB = 90cm, 3rd FH = 120cm)

Starts as Redbacks pitch 2. After second RB veer left to obvious rest ledge on arête. Follow line of FH's veering left up the spectacular orange face. Rope drag is an issue: a long draw (60cm) on the first and third bolts are recommended. Beware when lowering the climber as rope will most likely not reach the ground.

An alternative first pitch to 'Redback'. Starts 10m down and left of 'Conflict of Interest' at prominent arête between west facing orange wall and south facing grey wall. Nice balancy climbing with three FH's. Belay on ledge at DBB.

This one's for 'Justin Thyme'. A long juggy wall climb with a hard roof move down low. Start as for 'Conflict of Interest' on the south face of the southern pillar. At COI's first FH step left to UB and power through awkward roof and vague finger crack to stance. Up with a slight right trend past five further UB's to the same anchor as COI. Beware the runout just before the anchor. Some medium wires could be useful if you aren't feeling bold.

Links the start of 'Conflict of Interest' into the excellent juggy finish of 'Full Metal Vengeance'. Cross over at COI's third bolt.

Popular. Sport climbing up a grey techincal face on nubbins. Starts about 5m right of 'Red Ragging' on far right side of the south face. Wander up ultra grey jugs for 6m until you reach the red scooped rock (FH), step right then up through small roof then onwards past seven ringbolts to DRB lower off. Grade depends on how direct you pull the roof move. The further right you go the easier it gets!

Rising techincal traverse and crimpy face out left from 'Fat Fingered Freak'. From FFFs 2nd bolt head hard left on shallow slots to big break. Shake, then crimp like a fiend to next big break. Finish up further thin stuff to lower-off. 4th bolt is hard to clip without extension.

Pumpy with some novelty moves. Located 10m right of Conflict Of Interest in shaded chasm. Bouldery steep short corner (stickclip RB) to ledge. Step right then up left facing flake system (three RBs) to rap chain. Last bolt was added after first ascent.

The overhung knifeblade arete about 5m right of 'Variance'. Surprisingly pumpy and sustained. And - unless it has been rebolted - remember to take a bolt plate!

Stickclip RB for bouldery start then hang on for the ride up fragile sharp pockets and flakes past a BR and three UBs. This used to be mostly trad but was subsequently retroed to make it actually enjoyable. It was even solo-aided on trad by Neil as a means to get to the summit! WARNING - single clip-and-go lower off biner should not be used. Please thread directly through u-bolt. These biners can snap at very low weights.

The black slabs opposite 'Static Ticking Rampage' with prominent bolts. The left line. Up the slab past three FHs. A thin crux through the bulge (well protected by bolt) and finish up the arête as for 'Gandolf the Grey'. May be easier if you are tall. Double Bolt lower off.

Slab climbing in the Grampians? The right hand side line past one UB and four FHs. Pass 1st FH on the right to finish up the arête to a double bolt lower off.

A good warm-up route or worthwhile in its own right. Starts just right of descent gully for the 'Back Wall' routes (about 10m right of Height of Darkness) at small pillar.

Climb to the 2nd bolt of Two Weeks to a Beach Body, then had left onto the vague arête of Bikini Bootcamp and then up past the last two bolts of 'BB' to lower off.

Intense plaything with a bouldery start and much easier finish. Starts 1m right of 'Bikini Bootcamp'.

Arete / face downhill from Bikini Bootcamp. Start up RH side of slabby grey rib (as for Gimli) to base of undercut arete, up arete / wall past 3 x FH to lower off

Closed Project The imposing overhanging orange corner located on a ledge above Wimbelton.

Four FHs up thin orange face 3m right of 'Wave of Mutilation'. Finish is an awkward and tough mantle into the scoop with potential for hitting the back wall.

Would be a three star megaclassic if it wasn't tucked away in this gully. 4m right of 'Wave of Mutilation'. Chimney up the start to the first FH. Flakes, pockets and heucos lead up steep orange wall past eight FHs. Watch the lurking block behind you between the fourth and sixth bolts.