Grade | Route | Gear style | Popularity | Crag | |
---|---|---|---|---|---|
Trad | |||||
26 | ★★ Present
Slabba-dabba-do! An absorbing, exacting and extremely long pitch. The lengthy co-crux slab sections are unique for the 'Grampians'. Take 6 brackets, cams from micro to #3, and a few wires. There's ledge-fall potential at the 2nd FH (oops). A retrobolt above the 1st bolt (and shifting the 1st bolt a bit lower) would be welcomed. Until then, a quick safer option is to scoot up the easy first 8m of 'Simpleton', walk R to Present's 3rd bolt, and lower off it to pre-clip/pre-extend the 2nd bolt. You could also climb this as a fantastic 24/5 by starting up 'Simpleton' and linking into this pitch at the 3rd bolt. Start: Scramble up to the ledge/terrace, 2-3m R of 'Simpleton', and 8m L of the start of 'Missing'. Straight up between Simpleton & Missing, past 2 FHs, 5 carrots (glue-in stainless) & Missing's crux bolt. Join Missing only for a bodylength, namely it's crux. Up high, stay 3-4m R of Simpleton until almost at the capping roof. If your rope is "only" 60m long, you may wish to belay here to avoid simul-climbing 5m. Finish out the roof of Technical Ecstasy. Set: Will Monks FA: Kevin Lindorff, Michael O'Reilly & Steve Chapman | 65m, 8 | Mt Stapylton Amphitheatre | ||
23 | ★★★ Missing
A beautiful thin line leads to a large roof at the top of the cliff. You have to be good at placing RPs and other small wires, although the advent of microcams is a boon for this route. Take a rack up to #3½ cam, add 2 sets of RPs and plenty of microcams, a couple of extra middle-size cams for belays, thin sling and many quickdraws. A bolt was placed on the first pitch around 1996 because the original starting stump disintegrated. Start: Start by scrambling up 'Technical Ecstasy' for 15m to a terrace on the L where the real climbing starts.
FA: Kieran Loughran, Meg Sleeman March-April. Dave Vass made the first lead of pitch 1, before any fixed gear existed. 1st continuous ascent Steve Monks & Louise Shepherd 1989., 1988 | 75m, 3, 2 | Mt Stapylton Amphitheatre | ||
23 | ★★★ Technical Ecstasy Direct
Might get bumped up a grade once the third ascentionist gets back from cleaning his undies to give us his thoughts. The 18m of new climbing is only 2-4m L of the original second pitch, and can be escaped at a few spots. Otherwise, this version of the second pitch is every bit as good as the magnificent second pitch of 'Missing'. Start: Start as for TE. 1) (25m 18) Do a short version of pitch 1 of TE, belaying above the great initial vertical crack, 5m below the fat flakes. 2) (35m 23) Blast up the classy seam 2m L of the fat flakes, eventually rejoining the original second pitch for it's wild final cracks. Needs a full rack including a #8 hex, plus extra draws & multiples of micro-cams and micro-wires (and a good ability to place them!). Can be very well protected but gear is quite tricky in 1 or 2 spots. The direttissima finish to this pitch, through the bulge onto the top slab, was also done at bold 19 (and is shown in the ACA topo) but the original finish is better. 3) (15m 18) As per the original. FA: Kevin Lindorff, Will Monks (both lead crux & after TR rehearsal), 2009 | 70m | Mt Stapylton Amphitheatre | ||
20 R | ★★ Technical Ecstasy
Another great route with some pretty bold bits on the second pitch. Start: Start at the toe of the slabs 18m R of 'Simpleton', just L of a gully.
FA: Glenn Tempest & Kevin Lindorff, 1977 | 90m, 3 | Mt Stapylton Amphitheatre | ||
18 | ★ Mania
Good, but not in the same class as the other climbs here. Apparently it should have been called 'Maniac'. Start: Start as for 'Technical Ecstasy'.
FA: Tim Hancock, Peter McKeand 20.8.70, finishing by long traverse L to roof of Technical Ecstasy. As described: Kieran Loughran, Meg Sleeman. First pitch variant: Joel Malady & Michael Sim December 1995., 1988 | 97m, 3 | Mt Stapylton Amphitheatre | ||
18 | Mania Direct Finish
| 20m | Mt Stapylton Amphitheatre | ||
23 | Imbecile
Very reachy, add two grades if you're less than 190cm tall. The original climb bashed its way up to gain the line R of 'Mania' and followed this line until 24m below the top then aided the final pitch. Start: The advisable approach is to abseil from the top of 'Mania' into the gully R of 'Mania' and do the final pitch. FA: Andrew Thomson, Adrian Davey 19.8.70. FA Simon Mentz, Kieran Loughran & Louise Shepherd., 1991 | 91m, 2 | Mt Stapylton Amphitheatre | ||
15 | Cerambycid
Probably worthwhile at the grade. The route originally started as for 'Imbecile' but the route is described here with a better start. Start: Start about 10m R of 'Mania', and 5m R of gully.
FA: Andrew Thomson, Joe Friend. (pitch 1 as described: Allan Hope). (Horrible gully start: Derek Vissor, Ann Scholes).(Second Pitch variant: Ray Lassman & Kieran Loughran)., 2006 | 96m, 3 | Mt Stapylton Amphitheatre | ||
16 | ★★ This Structure is Closed
Despite being an excellent pitch up a superb line, this climb is over 1m high and has no hand-rails. It takes the great corner leading to the right side of the huge overhangs on 'Central Buttress'. Protection is excellent (double up cams to #2½ and throw in some larger ones for luck). Originally graded 17 it has cleaned up with traffic. Start: Start about 30m R of 'Mania' et al on a boulder below the R edge of the corner. FA: Kieran Loughran & Meg Sleeman, 1999 | 35m | Mt Stapylton Amphitheatre | ||
17 | ★ Cul De Sac
Clean slab/wall climbing all the way up to the chains on TSIC. Two BRs (hangers required!) and an assortment of cams and trad gear. Slightly contrived at the start, the hard moves past the first bolt can be avoided by easier climbing to the left, but delightful above. The second bolt is hidden until you get right to it! Start: Five or six metres left of This Structure is closed (very contrived). Alt start - might be better starting immediately L of SIC, then trending up L towards the bolt and onwards. Won't be as contrived this way, and gear will run straighter. FA: Keith Lockwood & Peter Canning, 2000 | 35m | Mt Stapylton Amphitheatre | ||
14 | The Long Paddock
A nice word, paddock: very evocative. Not a bad climb either. A #4 cam would be handy on the final pitch. Start: Start below the above-noted alcove (about 50m R of Cerambycid).
FA: Kieran Loughran & Meg Sleeman, 1995 | 75m, 4 | Mt Stapylton Amphitheatre | ||
22 | ★ Body Bath
Probably quite good and certainly unusual. Awkward climbing up the peapods leads to a solid, overhanging corner. A number of Aliens or similar tiny cams are needed to protect the hard move out of the peapods and protection is otherwise excellent. Start: Start beneath the alcove, just R of 'The Long Paddock'. FA: Louise Shepherd & Simon Mentz, 1991 | 15m | Mt Stapylton Amphitheatre | ||
15 R | Median
Would be a reasonable, long beginners' climb if not for the ridiculously hard [and hard to protect] move around the bulge to start which is out of character with everything else on the route. After that it's hard to work out where it goes, but the climbing is generally easy. Start: Start 10m around R of 'Body Bath'. The original description says that it starts behind a pine tree. That was 40 years ago. There is a dead pine tree resting amongst the gum trees where I think this climb starts. There used to be a dead pine tree just L of 'The Long Paddock'. I wonder if the M was put there by the first ascent party or just a guidebook editor who thought they had worked out where the route went?
FA: Sue Priestly & Steve Craddock (alt) Easter., 1965 | 79m, 3 | Mt Stapylton Amphitheatre | ||
15 R | Sunstruck
Essentially a variant finish to 'Median' except that it exaggerates the length, but it's hard to work out where it goes. Possibly only 10m of independent climbing. See comments for Median re the start. Start: Start as for 'Median'.
FA: D.Smalley & D.Holroyd (alt), 1974 | 120m, 4 | Mt Stapylton Amphitheatre | ||
15 | Glory Without Power
Could be more direct. Start: Start on the gully face of the 'Median' buttress around R of the overhang system. Just left of burnt out pine tree left of Grep at entrance of Chasm. Up the steep wall for 7m then left along horizontal to arête and face above. Abseil off rock bollard. Feb 2019 - access blocked by new baby trees growing at base. Could possibly step across onto face from ledge with burnt out pine tree on R, but this cuts out the first 2m of the climb. FA: Kieran Loughran & Meg Sleeman, 1991 | 15m | Mt Stapylton Amphitheatre | ||
19 | Coolsville
An easy option. Start: Start below a groove below and L of the L-hand line. Step off boulder and climb the wall (FH) into an easy groove that leas to a ledge at 7m, up steep crack and follow it left to arête. Abseil anchor up right. FA: Kieran Loughran & Allan Hope, 1992 | 20m | Mt Stapylton Amphitheatre | ||
20 | ★ The Tenth Dancer
The survivor in a war of attrition. Double ropes (and knowing how to use them!) are helpful. Start: Start as for 'Coolsville' to ledge at 7m. Traverse right (medium hex), up right leaning crack. Rap anchor to the right. FA: Kieran Loughran & Keith Lockwood, 1994 | 25m | Mt Stapylton Amphitheatre | ||
8 | ★ Mission Over Tokyo Gunigalg Gully Connection
The easiest way to the top of Taipan if you want to pre-place gear or take photos from rap. It is also a great beginners' route with (mostly) excellent rock, big features and good pro. Start by squeezing up a chimney feature adjacent to the Peregrinator Boulder (3m L of the tricky starting crack of Mission Over Tokyo). Climb most of the first pitch of Mission Over Tokyo, eventually arriving at a DRBB. Step left across the void of the Gunigalg Gully chimney. Easily up the slabby left wall of this, into the boulder choked gully (DRBB). If you wish to reach the summit, scramble up the short right wall (poor protection). FA: Andy Pollitt?, 2000 | 50m | Mt Stapylton Amphitheatre | ||
18 | ★ Mission Over Tokyo
A couple of exciting moves but the rest is ordinary. Start about 10m down left of Atomic Tadpole at far left edge of wall and about 15m right of the major vile-looking chimney of Gunigalg Gully.
FA: James McIntosh & Melanie Taws (alt), 1988 | 55m, 2 | Mt Stapylton Amphitheatre | ||
20 | ★★ Atomic Tadpole
An attractive climb with an intimidating finish. Usually done in a single pitch. Start on the elevated ledge, just L of the boulder, at the base of the nice face crack in the middle of the grey slab.
FA: Glenn Tempest & Kevin Lindorff, 1977 | 40m, 2 | Mt Stapylton Amphitheatre | ||
24 | ★★ Posy
A selection of the various flowers, plus some nice poses of its own. Start on top of the big boulder perched on the ledge between Atomic Tadpole and Tokyo Rose (but it's a better more sustained pitch if you start up UG). Trend R up the easy slab (adequate pro found on the R). Cross Tokyo Rose, then join Ukrainian Geranium for 8m over bulges to the start of the upper slab. Now traverse 3m R to FH in major grey streak, then up to break. Move R to join Sordid Orchids Direct past it's final 2 FHs, to rap anchor (28m). Full set of cams and wires, and several long draws (or double ropes). FA: Will Monks & Mike File, 2005 | 30m, 3 | Mt Stapylton Amphitheatre | ||
18 | ★★ Tokyo Connection
Takes in the good pitches of Tokyo Rose and Mission over Tokyo, and avoids the rubbish. Start as for Tokyo Rose.
| 45m, 2 | Mt Stapylton Amphitheatre | ||
18 | ★ Tokyo Rose
Obvious line, but the second pitch is ordinary. Improved by finishing up the second pitch of Mission Over Tokyo (i.e. by doing Tokyo Connection instead). Start in the square orange corner at the right side of the grey slab, about 8m R of Atomic Tadpole, on the elevated ledge.
FA: James McIntosh & Melanie Taws, 1987 | 50m, 2 | Mt Stapylton Amphitheatre | ||
20 | ★★ Ukrainian Geranium
This ground-up effort felt all the more intrepid for being established in single-digit temperatures with no fewer than three hailstorms on the way. It's the best moderate route down this end of the wall. Start 2m R of Tokyo Rose (Tokyo Connection), and 2m L of Sordid Orchids, on the elevated ledge.
FA: Will Monks, Kevin Lindorff (alt) & Joe Goding, 2004 | 45m, 2 | Mt Stapylton Amphitheatre | ||
26 | ★★ Sordid Orchids Direct
Extends the first pitch of Sordid Orchids by 12m and adds three bolts. Sustained wall climbing with crimpers and reach moves. Climbs more like a Blue Mountains wall climb rather than a Taipan steep sloper fest. Start as for Sordid Orchids. Climb Sordid Orchids to horizontal break after last RB. Instead of traversing off right into the birdshit, head straight up wall above (FH), step left and then up again (2 FHs). After the last bolt, traverse right into Sordid Orchids pitch 2 and climb this for 2m to a loweroff. Above the anchor is the aid move on Sordid Orchids pitch 2. FA: Neil Monteith & Will Monks, 2005 | 28m, 5 | Mt Stapylton Amphitheatre | ||
25 | ★★ Sordid Orchids Pitch 1
| 20m, 2 | Mt Stapylton Amphitheatre | ||
29 | ★ Black Adder
A beautiful natural line but unpopular due to its rusting bolts and bizarre traversing. Start at the first anchor of Sordid Orchids, on the guano-stained ledge. Drop down, traverse 4m right and go up flake to roof. Right below roof for 5m and over lip (crux). Traverse 5m right to finish beside Clean Sweep. Approx 5 bolts? FA: Pete Cresswell & Andy Pollitt, 1990 | 40m | Mt Stapylton Amphitheatre | ||
26 | ★★ Dinosaurs Don't Dyno
The dyno identifies many dinosaurs. A superb climb up the intermittent flake system. Start 10m R of Sordid Orchids on the elevated ledge, which at this end is about 10m above ground level. Follow the thin flake past a sea of fixed rubbish to a pin. Hard moves lead straight through the dyno, then traverse R to the continuation of the flake. At the roof move R and up a shallow groove to the top. FA: Kim Carrigan, 1984 | 35m | Mt Stapylton Amphitheatre | ||
21 | ★★ The Mint
Fun traversing on superb aesthetic stone. Full set of cams. Has also been done by starting up the unpleasant flakes 10m L of Great Divide (see 16a on topo). You can do a 150m girdle of Taipan, via The Mint, Arabic Mint and Lawrence of Arabia (the full thing is yet to be done in a single push). Start just R of Dinosaurs Don't Dyno, on the far right hand end of the elevated ledge. Put your belayer on the wide ledge 6m below the start, so they can see the crux.
FA: Will Monks, Mark Rewi (alt) & Neil Monteith | 42m, 2 | Mt Stapylton Amphitheatre | ||
27 | ★★ The Great Divide
Wonderful climbing based on the sharp, undercut arete right of Dance of Life. The crux is very hard, but very short. If you pull on the crux bolt it's an excellent 25M1. Take a full rack incl. 2 #3.5 cams, and 15-20 quickdraws. Start directly below the impressive hanging arete which soars upwards from the R side of a large roof. This is just L of where the walk-in meets the cliff, and is where the track along the base balances along the top edge of a large smooth-faced boulder.
FA: Kim Carrigan & Martin Scheel, 1984 | 50m, 2, 3 | Mt Stapylton Amphitheatre | ||
25 | ★★ Divided Years
Steep scoopy World Party start then thin technical finish. Well protected and convenient for climbers who end up on the ledge above the left end of Taipan. Start on top of Taipan Wall: this route is a rap in and climb out affair between The Great Divide and Daedalus. Locate double rap rings on ledge about 10m south of the Clean Sweep rap chains. Rap down wall aiming for double ring belay at right end of horizontal break. You will need to be pushing off and swinging in to reach this anchor - the wall is steep! Traverse left across horizontal (FH), then up into water funnel scoop (two FHs) to small cave. Out right side of this cave on crimpers past final FH to juggy gritty finish. #3 SLCD and a few medium wires are all that is required in the trad department. Its a 40m Rap to the ground from the Rap-Anchors on the Belay at the start of this route. FA: Neil Monteith Hannah Lockie, 2005 | 16m, 4 | Mt Stapylton Amphitheatre | ||
26 | The Chick is Trouble
A nice mini-pitch, although the crux is several grades tougher than the rest. Start 15m R of Great Divide, below the flake which is a few metres L of Seventh Banana pitch 1. Easy grey rock leads to roof. Turn the lip with difficulty (FH), to gain the flake. Nice moves up flake and face, to the first belay of Seventh Banana. Rap off (20m). FA: Ross Taylor, 1999 | 15m, 1 | Mt Stapylton Amphitheatre | ||
28 R | ★★★ Daedelus
This alternative second pitch to Seventh Banana is rather runout at times, but it's also an incredible sustained line. Start at the first anchor of Seventh Banana. Up Seventh Banana pitch 2 for a few moves then move L (crux past the first bolt), and blast up the somewhat sparsely bolted grey streak to the top. Between the last 2 RBs it rejoins Seventh Banana for a few metres, then heads left again. 6 RB's & DRB anchor. There's some optional cam placements but they don't reduce the runouts much. Rebolted 2017. FA: Julian Saunders (26M1) & Dave Jones (28), 1997 | 28m | Mt Stapylton Amphitheatre | ||
27 | ★★★ The Seventh Banana
A good aid climb turned into a great free climb. The first pitch is worth a star or two in its own right and is justifiably very popular with Taipan virgins. Start 25m R of The Great Divide, and 8m R of The Chick is Trouble.
FFA: Steve Monks & Jane Wilkinson FA: FA Nick Reeves, Dave Mudie & Steve Due (alt), 1975 | 55m, 2, 6 | Mt Stapylton Amphitheatre | ||
23 | ★★ The Seventh Banana Pitch 1
| 20m | Mt Stapylton Amphitheatre | ||
26 | ★★★ Sirocco
Another classic up this unlikely looking section of cliff. The crux at the start of the second pitch is ridiculously hard, and can be quite demoralising. Some prominent international climbers have suggested up to 8a for this move! It is also enjoyable, and far easier, to either (a) pull on that one bolt to reduce the grade to 25M1, or (b) freeclimb around to the R past the 1st bolt of Father O then back L into Sirocco before the 2nd bolt of Father O. Start about 20m R of The Seventh Banana, and 3m L of The Seventh Pillar.
FA: Malcolm Matheson, 1989 | 52m, 2, 5 | Mt Stapylton Amphitheatre | ||
21 | ★★ Sirocco Pitch 1
| 20m, 1 | Mt Stapylton Amphitheatre | ||
26 | ★★★ Father Oblivion
Extraordinary moves on immaculate rock. If you're picky you might deduct a star due to the numerous rests, and the bouldery crux start being several grades harder than the final 25m. Tougher than many Taipan 26s, but easier than Sirocco so it can't be 27 ... can it?! Often repeated using only the bolts with some 6-8m runouts, but most people also use a couple of wires and cams. Start as for Sirocco pitch 2, delicately to the horizontal break at 3m (cam). Step R then up cruxy wall (2 RBs) to ledge. Step R to RB, up the juggy scoop (wires), then veer L to stance below roof. RB on lip, then a long reach/dyno gains the delightful grey headwall (3 RBs, cam). Lower-off (30m+ to ledge, tie a knot in the end of 60m ropes, or 48m to the ground). Rebolted ~2006. A great 25ish variant avoids the crux past the 2nd bolt by moving L below it, joining Sirocco for a few moves then rejoining Father O above the 2nd bolt. An independent start has also been done off the ledge, its protected by tiny trad and, instead of sharing the first few metres of Sirocco p2 off the L end of the ledge, it goes up and a bit left from the middle of the ledge to the 1st bolt of Father O. FA: Simon Mentz, 1991 | 52m, 7 | Mt Stapylton Amphitheatre | ||
27 | ★★★ Mirage
Variety! The famous HB dyno route as immortalized by Simon Carter's photos in the early 1990s. Take a full rack up to #2.5Fr, including Aliens, RPs, and sling runners (and/or double ropes) to minimise drag. Start as for Sirocco.
FA: Malcolm Matheson (pitch 1), 1990 FA: Quentin Chastagnier, 2013 | 35m, 2, 15 | Mt Stapylton Amphitheatre | ||
25 R | ★★ Arabic Mint
A great section of traversing, the addition of which enables a 150m girdle of Taipan, via The Mint, Arabic Mint and Lawrence of Arabia (the full thing is yet to be done in a single push). Start at the end of The Mint (the first anchor of Sirocco). Can also be worked from the ground by starting up the first 15m of Mirage. Reverse the Sirocco pitch 1 traverse, then take the Mirage traverse to the white corner. Swing R to obvious slot on arete, up a little then back down to a break which leads into Lawrence of Arabia. Cams to #5 & wires. Descent requires creativity if not continuing into LoA. Be aware that the slot on the arete captures your rope, which doesn't seem to create drag or rope cutting potential for the leader, but does create rope cutting potential if the second falls off the crux (as happened on the first ascent: the sheath was completely severed but thankfully the core survived). The leader should consider obstructing the slot and/or padding the problematic sharp edge, and/or the second should try to flick the rope out of the slot before leaving the corner. FA: Will Monks & Adam Demmert, 2008 | 25m | Mt Stapylton Amphitheatre | ||
25 R | ★★★ Medusa
The main attraction is a seductive groove on the second pitch reminiscent of Cardigan St, but with lesser quality rock and a sullied history. For those who "only" climb 25, the first pitch is very worthwhile in its own right and deserves a lot more traffic than it gets - especially since the old bolts were replaced (2009). Start as for The Seventh Pillar.
FA: Pitch 1: Gordon Poultney & Simon Carter early, 1995 | 35m, 2, 3 | Mt Stapylton Amphitheatre | ||
Medusa (Pitch 2) (open project)
| 25m | Mt Stapylton Amphitheatre | |||
23 R | ★★★ The Seventh Pillar Left Hand Variant
A heady megaclassic ... but also a brilliant consumer-friendly 22 if you lower off the bolts at the top of the flake (25m). Start as for The Seventh Pillar. Follow R-tending line of weakness for 18m to the major roof-capped horizontal break. Swing L into the rounded flake crack and up it. Bolts at the top protect the crux, which is followed by 8m rightwards runout to the horizontal (gear). Traverse 10m further right along this to rap rings (22m rap, can just barely lower off with a 60m rope). Extend all gear before the bolts, otherwise the flake is a real rope eater and rope drag will be hideous. FA: Mark Moorhead, Col Reece & Eddy Ozols, 1980 | 46m, 1 | Mt Stapylton Amphitheatre | ||
21 | ★★ The Seventh Pillar Right Hand Variant
Fantastic sustained moves and position. Start at the original 2nd belay of Seventh Pillar (i.e. at the guano-stained stance halfway up the 2nd pitch as now described). Extend high pro, then step down from the belay to traverse 3m R to incipient flakes. Up past 2 FHs and straight up grey streak (med wire) to gain major break. Move L to belay as for the original. FA: Will Monks & Kevin Lindorff | 14m, 2 | Mt Stapylton Amphitheatre | ||
24 | ★ Scud Buster
Some fantastic slabbing in the prime central part of Taipan. Hard for 24. Start at the first belay of Lawrence of Arabia, which is most conveniently accessed by jugging 8m up the FB or Serpentine fixed ropes, if they're there. From the R end of the roof-like section of the horizontal, head up on pockets (thread, #3-4 cam). Continue slabbing past 4 hangerless bolts (rebolted 2011) to ledge below main roof. Traverse 5m R (small-med cams) to the first belay of Serpentine. Rap off (20m). FA: Richard Smith & Andy Pollitt, 1992 | 75m, 4 | Mt Stapylton Amphitheatre | ||
21 | ★★★ Lawrence of Arabia
2 long traversing pitches which give fantastic perspectives on the daunting territory above. Take lots of cams of all sizes. Start as for The Seventh Pillar.
FA: Keith Lockwood, Malcolm Matheson (alt) & Richard Smith, 1991 | 55m, 2 | Mt Stapylton Amphitheatre | ||
29 | ★★★ Rage
A 15m variant to the first part of the second pitch of Serpentine. Significantly harder than Serpentine. Pull through initial roof on Serpentine p2 then L via very thin moves to red jug on beautiful sheer hanging red face. Trend back R past 3rd bolt and up subtle arete. When the arete finishes trend L via more hard moves past 5th bolt, to rejoin Serpentine at the horizontal break. FA: Andy Pollitt, 1992 | 35m, 7 | Mt Stapylton Amphitheatre | ||
24 | ★ Serpentine Pitch 1
FA: Malcolm Matheson | 30m | Mt Stapylton Amphitheatre | ||
29 | ★★★ Serpentine
This famous line was the first route on the wall which cried out for the mythical fourth star. Now re-bolted by HB with 75mm ball head expansions (the original laser-cut fixed hangers remain), HB also put in an anchor 1.5m to the right (you still have to top out). PLEASE DON'T PISS ON THE BELAY LEDGE (bring a pee bottle for long belay sessions). Aiming left or outwards is NOT Ok, you WILL be pissing on other pitches and yes they do get climbed. Start on the cairn on the raised ledge, directly below the obvious huge arete of 'Naja'. FA: Malcolm Matheson & Steve Monks, 1988 FFA: Malcolm Matheson, 1988 | 75m, 2, 11 | Mt Stapylton Amphitheatre | ||
30 | ★★★ Naja
After the long years of Steve and others being spat off before Dave cleaned it up, it's apt that this genus includes the Spitting Cobra! The strongest line on all Taipan, this is the left-facing arete bounding the right side of the massive scooped out area right of Serpentine. It is more closely bolted than most other Taipan routes, although they're getting a bit the worse for wear. The whole thing can be worked from the ground using a 70m rope (but only just!). Start as for Serpentine.
FA: Equipped Steve Monksish? & sent by Dave Jones, 1990 | 45m, 2, 8 | Mt Stapylton Amphitheatre | ||
27 | ★ Naja pitch 1
| 25m | Mt Stapylton Amphitheatre | ||
26 | ★★ Snake Flake
A strenuous single pitch, mostly superb 22-23ish but with a distinct hard section. It takes the main arete-like thing bounding the L side of this large red scooped out section of cliff. Start on the elevated ledge, 3m L of the top of the boulder you scrambled up.
FA: Malcolm Matheson (originally starting up Invisible Fist - he added the direct start through the roof with Jacqui Middleton & Neil Monteith on)., 2003 | 25m, 4 | Mt Stapylton Amphitheatre | ||
27 | ★★★ World Party
1
21
20m
2
27
13m
3
24
20m
The stunning final pitch is one of the very best on the wall. Before you get there, there's a hard crux on the 2nd pitch. The hanging 2nd belay is best avoided by linking pitches 2 and 3, while pitch 2 is easily worked from the ground if you have a recalcitrant belayer. Start on the elevated ledge, 7m R of the top of the boulder and just R of the small tree, at a short fat flake on the slab.
FA: Peter Cresswell (1), Andy Pollit (2 & 3), 1990 | 53m, 3, 9 | Mt Stapylton Amphitheatre | ||
21 | ★★ World Party Pitch 1
| 20m | Mt Stapylton Amphitheatre | ||
21 | ★ Constrictor
Squeezed in! A Taipan slab route with a crimpy crux down low. Starts 3m right of World Party, just left of small bush growing out of horizontal crack. Boulder up tenuously onto orange slab and good pocket (FH). Step left slightly and climb slopers directly to join World Party at large horizontal. Traverse right across this for four metres to short vertical flake. Arrange pro and balance up flake onto slab (FH). Finish up slopers (FH) and over final committing bulge to ledge. Rap chain (18m). FA: Neil Monteith, 2004 | 18m, 3 | Mt Stapylton Amphitheatre | ||
28 | ★★★ Anaconda
Suffocatingly powerful. Usually led as one giant pitch. Start at large expanding left-facing flake 8m right of World Party.
FA: Malcolm Matheson & Simon Mentz, 1993 | 60m, 2, 8 | Mt Stapylton Amphitheatre | ||
22 | Anaconda Pitch 1
FA: Malcolm Matheson | 17m | Mt Stapylton Amphitheatre | ||
26 | ★★ Forked Tongue
A rising traverse line across a major feature linking Anaconda into Mr Joshua. Start at rap chain at end of first pitch of Anaconda. Climb Anaconda's 2nd pitch for 3 bolts then scuttle right (2 UBs) into white cave. A good alternative is to head R from Anaconda's 2nd FH and heelhook up the diagonal bulge (pre-extend the 1st UB). From the cave, go-go-gadget span between scoops to reach juggy flake. Swing across this (large wires/cams, or just run it out) then up final scoopy headwall (UB) to join Mr Joshua pitch 1 at it's last bolt. Backclean, or get some idiot to second then rap off (38m). FFA: Toby Pola FA: Equipped & dogged by Neil Monteith, 2005 | 25m, 8 | Mt Stapylton Amphitheatre | ||
25 | ★★★ Mr T (Mr Josh Left Variant)
Totally classic ... but it's hard to give the third star when it's only an 8m variant of the first pitch of Mr Joshua. Unfortunately the bolts are getting rather rusty after only 10 years. Start as for Mr Joshua. At the post-crux horizontal break of Mr Joshua's first pitch, (after the 6th bolt) step left and climb left side of scoop past two FHs to rejoin Mr J at it's last bolt. Lower off (28m to tree then swing back in to ledge, or 38m to ground). FA: Garry & Jake FA: Garry Phillips, 2006 | 35m, 9 | Mt Stapylton Amphitheatre | ||
26 | ★★★ Mr Joshua
The brilliant first pitch is one of the most popular at Taipan and was a very impressive effort by the young bumblies Jared and Simon. Often cited as the best 25 in Australia. Pitch 2 is far less popular, but still excellent. Start from the R-hand end of the ledge, 4m R of Anaconda's flake. Set a belay, or belay from the ground.
FA: Pitch 1 Jared McCulloch & Simon MentzPitch 2 Jared McCulloch 18-10-1989, 1989 | 50m, 2, 12 | Mt Stapylton Amphitheatre | ||
25 | ★★★ Mr. Joshua Pitch 1
| 28m, 8 | Mt Stapylton Amphitheatre | ||
30 | ★★ Tourniquet
FA: Dave Jones (p1p2 98), 1997 | 40m, 2, 8 | Mt Stapylton Amphitheatre | ||
28 | ★★★ Venom
The popular first pitch is a beautiful scoop of rock with a tenuous traverse and remarkably sustained climbing for the length of the scoop. The business is a little short to rank up there with Taipan's very best, but it's still awesome. Pitch 2 is rarely done but is an absolute blast. Start at the DRB atop Kaa p1, accessed as described above. (There is an old direct start with a couple of bolts (described on the Spurt Wall page), but nobody bothers with it).
FA: Steve Monks early, 1995 | 60m, 2, 4 | Mt Stapylton Amphitheatre | ||
26 | ★★★ Rattlesnake Shake
Ho hum, just another fantastic Taipan route. You'll be shaking on the slab section! Continually bouldery climbing split by good rest stances. Start as for Venom on the ledge 15m off the ground. Traverse right as for Kaa pitch 2 (small-med cams), past the black streak with 2 FHs (don't clip them, that's Rattler), almost to Kaa's second bolt (don't clip this either!). Straight up grey streak above past 6 FHs and a fixed wire up high. Route finishes in large cave at rap rings (35m to the ground). You need a 60m rope to (laboriously) tramline back to the belay, or a 70m to lower off to the ground. FA: Neil Monteith, 2007 | 35m, 7 | Mt Stapylton Amphitheatre | ||
24 | ★★ Kaa
Wanders around like crazy in order to follow the 'weaknesses', but still worthwhile. Nearly all the bolts are in poor condition - please contribute to rebolting. You also need a light trad rack. Start at ground level at the prominent left-leading flake that is located towards the right end of the Spurt Wall bouldering traverse, directly below Venom.
FA: Steve Monks & Keith Lockwood, 1992 | 80m, 4, 9 | Mt Stapylton Amphitheatre | ||
23 | Kaa Pitch 1
The old 15mm long (!!) bolt was replaced 2011. Start: Start at the R end of the 'Spurt Wall' bouldering traverse, at the obvious juggy chalked L leading flake. FA: Steve Monks | 17m, 1 | Mt Stapylton Amphitheatre | ||
25 X | ★★★ Shai-Hulud
They must've been reading Dune to convince themselves to worm through this ocean of sand. Start: Start at the top of 'Spurting Mildly'.
FA: Dave Musgrove & Dave Jones, 1997 | 45m, 3 | Mt Stapylton Amphitheatre | ||
21 | We Need That Oil
The easiest line towards the L end with shallow cracks, pinches, laybacks etc. There are a couple of possibilities but there is one that seems to best fit the bill. FA: James Falla, 1987 | 10m | Mt Stapylton Amphitheatre | ||
17 | King Louis The Most
A huge block sits on the terrace R of the overhanging wall. Short, thin crack next to the block up grey wall. Finish up discontinuous cracks. FA: Jane Wilkinson & Steve Monks, 1992 | 25m | Mt Stapylton Amphitheatre | ||
31 | ★★★ Bossanova
Some think it might be 30.. FA: Julian Saunders | Mt Stapylton Amphitheatre | |||
19 | Foot-Spa
Climb the blank face on horizontals (small SLCD), then finish up juggy crack. Start: Start 20m left of 'Bass Rush' on short grey face. FA: Nick McKinnon, Adam Demmert & Neil Monteith, 2000 | 15m | Mt Stapylton Amphitheatre | ||
24 | Pentridge Smack Delivery
Boulder problem rounded arete past 2 rings leads to easy naturally protected slab. Reachy crux. Start: 'Arete' 3m right of 'Bass Rush'. FA: Nick McKinnon, Neil Monteith & Adam Demmert, 2000 | 13m, 2 | Mt Stapylton Amphitheatre | ||
17 | ★ Evil Elf
Up layback and onto slab. Climb thin crack splitting wall above just right of wide crack. After reaching big break at 15m keep climbing upwards to belay on large ledge. Start: Start 10m right of 'Pentridge Smack Delivery' at short layback corner crack. FA: Andy Hein (US) & Neil Monteith, 2000 | 20m | Mt Stapylton Amphitheatre | ||
1 | The Teddy Bear
| 6m | Flat Rock | ||
2 | The Wise Old Rag Doll
| 6m | Flat Rock | ||
3 | Sand Pits And Gravel Rash
| 8m | Flat Rock | ||
3 | The Play Pen Play Mate
| 7m | Flat Rock | ||
4 | The Dolls Play With Guns
| 8m | Flat Rock | ||
22 | ★★ Cooking In Chernobyl
Tradtastic. The L-facing flake that is a major feature of this wall about 25m right of Melting Moments. FA: Shepherd & Chris Peisker, 1986 | 30m | Flat Rock | ||
13 | ★ Blues Maker
Corner, then L wall, behind chockstone and either bridge or climb face. Start: Line R of 'Cooking In Chernobyl'. FA: Andrew Thomson & Keith Lockwood, 1972 | 21m | Flat Rock | ||
18 | ★ In The Groove
The largest and smallest cams will be handy for the exciting finish. Start: Start just R of 'Blues Maker'. FA: Alan McCulloch, Norm Booth & Ed Neve, 1992 | 20m | Flat Rock | ||
12 | ★ Blues Breaker
The corner. Start: Line 18m R of 'Blues Maker'. FA: Lockwood & Thomson, 1972 | 20m | Flat Rock | ||
15 | ★ Dave's Pen-dulum
Somewhat novel. Move up to L end of horizontal crack. Follow line R until it runs out, continue to corner and step down. Now reverse it or, perhaps, don't bother to start. FA: David Lovell & Maryborough Venturers sometime., 2000 | 20m | Flat Rock | ||
12 | The Short Orange Corner
Don't blink. You're probably sick of this climb by the time you've read to here. The corner stands out from the walking track but is not very attractive on close acquaintance. Start by a tree below and L of the short orange corner at the L end of the cliff. Diagonally R to corner, up corner a bit. Step R around arete and finish steeply. FA: Details unknown., 2000 | 20m | Flat Rock | ||
23 | ★ Optimal Arousal
Steep. Boring adjective but exciting climbing. Start: Start below overhanging wall a few m R of 'The Short Orange Corner'. FA: Peter Martin & Ed Neve, 1987 | 20m, 1 | Flat Rock | ||
20 | Incongruity
Looks ridiculously hard for the grade. FA: Peter Martin, Jarod McCulloch & Simon Mentz, 1988 | 20m, 1 | Flat Rock | ||
22 | ★ Perceived Freedom
Another year, another climb. Start 20m R of 'Optimal Arousal' opposite cave/boulder. 'Steep' wall, hand traverse L then up easy crack. FA: Peter Martin, 1989 | 18m | Flat Rock | ||
17 | ★★ Sky Rocket
Unobtrusive but quite pleasant. Crack 10m R of 'Perceived Freedom'. Approach from the R and walk L to end of ledge. Up with a tricky start and thin midsection. FA: James McIntosh & Melanie Taws, 1987 | 15m | Flat Rock | ||
14 | ★★ A Day In The Life Of Ethel The Aardvark
Steep and enjoyable enough climbing through juggy bulges. Crack 5m R of 'Sky Rocket'. FA: Mcintosh & Taws, 1987 | 15m | Flat Rock | ||
18 | ★ Apollo 13
Bolt left of Pegleg FA: noddy | 15m, 1 | Flat Rock | ||
16 | ★ Pegleg
Very nice. Thin crack with an old piton 5m L of 'Bellerophon' and 10m R of Aditloeta. Awkward bulging top is hard to protect. May have been top-roped or aided ages ago. FA: Allan Hope, 1986 | 19m | Flat Rock | ||
20 | ★★ Robots Don't Day Dream
Reachy climbing up face between 'Bellerophon' and 'Pegleg'. Be careful with pro. FA: Aidan Banfield, 1989 | 20m | Flat Rock | ||
8 | ★ Bellerophon
Something of an easy classic. The major corner to the ledge and rap rings. FA: Charles Gunst, Richard Rodd & Margaret Brookes, 1974 | 20m | Flat Rock | ||
18 | ★ Be My Guest
| 22m | Flat Rock | ||
15 | ★ Matthew Flinders
Quite serious for the grade. Not well protected at first, potential groundfall from 7m, can be protected with an No 1 and 0.75 Camalot in a break at about 4-5m. Runout at top. Take large hexes or cams. Start 2m R of 'Bellerophon'. Up tending L a tad to a sling at horizontal break. Up and R to nut, then up and leftish to finish just R of corner, taking care with large boulder. FA: Matt Brooks & Aidan Banfield, 1989 | 19m | Flat Rock | ||
20 | ★ Vicious Fungus
Good face-climbing with some subtle placements. Cams to #3½. Start: Thin cracks 2m R of 'Matthew Flinders', 2m L of prominent black water streak. FA: Aidan Banfield & Matthew Brooks, 1990 | 20m | Flat Rock | ||
20 | ★★ Streaks Ahead
Sustained face climbing on turtle shell rock. Start: Middle of face R of 'Bellerophon', 2m R of 'Vicious Fungus', on left edge of black streak. Take small cams and wires. FA: Graeme Smith & Gunther Zippel, 1990 | 20m | Flat Rock | ||
21 | Tripp'n
| 20m | Flat Rock | ||
20 | ★ Hallucinations
Start: Black water streak 8m R of 'Bellerophon', 2m R of 'Streaks Ahead'. FA: Brooks & Banfield, 1992 | 20m, 1 | Flat Rock | ||
14 | ★ Fungal Fantasies
Looks good. 3m R of black water streak is a slight groove. Up L edge of groove. FA: Brooks, Jeff Manton & Banfield, 1990 | 20m | Flat Rock |