Grade | Route | Gear style | Popularity | ||
---|---|---|---|---|---|
Sundial Peak The Bleachers The Alcove | |||||
V3 | ★★ Anarchy Versus Freedom
The left of the two overhanging boulders has awesome powerful climbing on good holds. Sit-start left hand on low crimp and right hand low on arete. Make powerful compression moves between good holds. FA: Jamie, 31 Mar | 3m | |||
V4 | ★ Weird By Design
A weird arete with weird moves. Sit-start left hand on rear left arete and right hand gaston. Get the pinch, slap up, and rock back leftward to finish. FA: Jamie, 31 Mar | 3m | |||
V5 | ★★ A Rebel to Authority
Probably the best line at the Alcove. Sit-start left hand on jug, right hand on choice of low crimps. Get the bomber pinch, stay low, and slap rightward to double slopers before mantelling the face. FA: Jamie, 31 Mar | 3m | |||
V1 | The Twisted Staircase
Sit-start the protuding iron bar and make weird moves up the slab arete. Carefully mantel with slopers. FA: Jamie, 31 Mar | 3m | |||
V0 | Death Trap
For historical purposes. The route to the right of "The Twisted Staircase". Sit-start and head directly up face/rounded arete. Would probably climb okay if not for loose edges. Be careful what you pull on. FA: Hannah Nguyen | ||||
Sundial Peak The Bleachers Railon Boulder | |||||
V2 | ★ Swarm up
From a stand climb the shield just right of the left arete. FA: Evan Campbell | 3m | |||
V4 | ★ Railon
Sit start on the low diagonal crack in the middle of the northwest face. Straight up finishing right of the moss. | 3m | |||
V4 | ★ Railup
Starts as for Railon but traverse left to finish as for Swarm up. | 3m | |||
V7 | ★★ Crimp Rail
Excellent. Sit-start on right side of boulder matched on good sloper. Traverse leftward on jugs into double gaston. Make hard moves on good crimps and finish as for "Railup" (V4). FA: Jamie, 31 Mar | 4m | |||
V7 | ★★ Rail to Rail
This line traverses the whole face and adds a challenging undercling section which requires good footwork to succeed. Start as for "Crimp Rail", traversing leftward to finish up "Swarm Up" (V2). FA: Jake, 31 Mar | 6m | |||
Sundial Peak The Bleachers Moment Boulder | |||||
V0 | The Moment
Climbs the centre of the very high slab. Finishes once your on the ledge. FA: Carl & Carl Schneider, Oct 2015 | 12m | |||
Sundial Peak The Bleachers Heart Boulder | |||||
V4 | ★ Too Legit To Quit
Stand-start. Climb the left arete of the west face (just left of Pray). Can be done as a sit-start off two sidepull crimps at about V4/5. FA: Stuart Beekmeyer | 4m | |||
V0 | ★ Pray
Easy classic. Climb the middle of the face of crazy paving. | 4m | |||
V4 | Hammer time
Right arete of west face. Jump start to jug then finish up the grey face above | 4m | |||
V6 | ★ J.E. Memorial Slab
Sit start on the low right hand crimp and left hand side pull/undercling. Straight up trend right to top. FA: Tyrone Clements | 5m | |||
V4 | ★★ Subs over Dubs
Sit start on the right arete. Layback on slopers to jump for last hold on left face. FA: Gwyn Hughes | 4m | |||
Sundial Peak The Bleachers Royal Box | |||||
V0 | ★ Boom Box
FA: Chook Betts | ||||
V0 | ★★ Beat Box
FA: Chook Betts | ||||
V3 | ★★ Penny Royal Tea
FA: Chook Betts | ||||
V3 | ★★ Soap Box
FA: Chook Betts | ||||
V7 | ★★★ Regal Passage
Start Low on Slopers at Aréte trend left then Dyno for the lip FA: Chook | ||||
V2 | ★★ Prince Albert
| 6m | |||
V1 | ★ Smashed Box
FA: Chook Betts | ||||
V3 | ★★ Camilla Park Your Balls
FA: Chook Betts | ||||
V3 | Open Box
FA: Chook Betts | ||||
Sundial Peak The Bleachers Blackbeard's Boulder | |||||
V6 | Lexit
| ||||
V9 | ★★ Musk Up
| ||||
V10 | ★★★ London Gentleman
| 3m | |||
V8 | ★★★ Blackbeard's Delight | 3m | |||
V6 | ★★★ Sex Panther
Originally given v9 without the high right heel-toe cam. FA: Al 'Sex Panther' Robertson | 3m | |||
V3 | Lady's Night
| ||||
Sundial Peak The Bleachers Courtyard Area | |||||
V2 | ★ Sir Earl
Up the slab wall left of Courtyard Arete. FA: Pete | 2m | |||
★★★ I'm not Lichen This
Grovel through the narrowing passageway to a squeeze at the end. Take care of the drop on the other side. FA: Pete | 5m | ||||
V2 | ★ Courtyard Arete
Up the slopey compression from a sitstart on the arete. | 2m | |||
Sundial Peak The Bleachers Nicholas Cage Memorial Face | |||||
V3 | Snake Eyes
| ||||
V3 | ★ Lord of war
| ||||
V2 | ★★ Face Off
FA: Chook Betts | ||||
V2 | ★ Leaving Las Vegas
| 5m | |||
V5 | Con Air
FA: Simon Weill | ||||
V6 | Gone in 60 Seconds
FA: Chook Betts | ||||
V3 | Ghost Rider
FA: Chook Betts | ||||
Sundial Peak The Bleachers Red Mist Boulder | |||||
V12 | Red Mist
FA: Simon Weill | ||||
Sundial Peak The Bleachers The Bloody Face | |||||
V7 | There will be Blood
FA: Simon Weill | ||||
Sundial Peak The Bleachers Korean Jesus | |||||
V5 | ★★★ Korean Jesus | 5m | |||
Sundial Peak The Bleachers Car 43 Buttress | |||||
V4 | ★★ Art Of Elsewhere
FA: Simon Weill | ||||
Sundial Peak The Bleachers Identity Crisis Buttress | |||||
V2 | ★★ Bleached Balls
All the way up the terrifyingly high left arete of the buttress FA: Chook Betts | ||||
V1 | Indy's Drop Off
Climb the face left of Bleached Balls until the first break | ||||
Sundial Peak The Bleachers Beige Boulder | |||||
V3 | ★★ Hymen Gorillas
Stand-start on jug rail left of "Beige is All The Rage". Head directly up the slightly overhung vague arete. FA: Chook Betts | 3m | |||
V2 | ★ Earl of Brown
Stand start as for "Hymen Gorillas". Traverse left and head up. FA: Chook Betts | 3m | |||
V8 | ★★★ Beige is All The Rage
Stand start under roof. Using underling pockets to start, move through lip and up the face. FA: Simon Weill | 3m | |||
V7 | ★★ Bermuda
Start with left hand under triangle feature and right hand on good rail to the right. Move left and finish up "Beige is all the rage." Starting holds are a bit high so may need to stack pads or jump start to establish if shorter. When established, the starting holds feel like jugs 👌 📹 Bermuda For an extra challenge, climb Bermuda without feet. Fun flowy campus finishing on a big move to the last jug. Feet on is okay to get undercling over the lip and top out. Adds a Vee point in difficulty. FA: Len Dalit, 23 Mar | ||||
Sundial Peak The Bleachers Moon Boulder | |||||
V0 | ★ Chook Run
Climb the Arete. Stand start. | 2m | |||
V0 | ★ The Moonies
Sit start on the same holds as Over The Moon. Move left, then straight up to top out. FA: Chook Betts | 2m | |||
V0 | ★ Over The Moon
Sit Start under the flake. Go straight up. Interesting climb. FA: Chook Betts | 5m | |||
V4 | ★ Moon Walker
Sit start low (hands off the jugs) on the right prow. Climb the prow. FA: Chook Betts | 5m | |||
V3 | ★★ Red Saturn
Start at the back of the cave and climb out to finish Moon Walker. FA: Chook Betts | 4m | |||
Sundial Peak The Bleachers Easy Peasy Boulder | |||||
V1 | Easy As
| ||||
V0 | Dead Easy
| ||||
Sundial Peak The Bleachers Jamarcus | |||||
V7 | Jamarcus
FA: Simon Weill | ||||
Sundial Peak The Bleachers The Walker Boulder | |||||
V1 | ★★ The Kriss
| 4m | |||
V9 | ★★★ The Walker
Start from the back of the cave. Burst out to the lip and continue up the slopey arete. FA: Simon Weill | 3m | |||
V6 | ★★★ Evac
FA: Simon Weill | 3m | |||
V8 | ★★ CMD
From the start of The Walker, head right on crimps to finish on Evac. FA: Simon Weill | 3m | |||
Sundial Peak The Bleachers Quickening Boulder | |||||
V9 | ★★★ The Quickening
| ||||
V9/10 | ★★★ The Gathering
Sit start on the arete, slap up and finish as for The Quickening. FA: Matthew Lu | ||||
V10/11 | ★★ The Thiccening
Start as for The Quickening, head right through crimps from the jug. | ||||
Sundial Peak The Bleachers Felching Boulder | |||||
V5 | ★★ Feltching Season
Is this the Weill's favourite time of the year? Looks unlikely for the grade (and, obviously, could be spoogey). Sit start off LH undercling and RH side-pull then go up the blunt arete. FA: Simon Weill | 3m | |||
Sundial Peak The Bleachers The Three Sisters | |||||
V2 | ★ Hylander
| 4m | |||
V4 | Sister of Mercy
| 4m | |||
V3 | ★ Barn Door Sally
| 4m | |||
V0 | The Kneeze
Stand Start in the Offwidth Crack and work your way up in the crack to a slopey top out. All holds within reach are in, but the more you are jamming, the more fun you are having. | 4m | |||
V1 | Nervous Ned Is Dead
| 4m | |||
Sundial Peak The Bleachers Magic Daddy | |||||
V6 | ★★ Magic Daddy
Start on the low jug, up the underclings and burst through the slopers | 4m | |||
V5 | ★★★ Anonymous Arete
The right arete is a classic that has a sting in the tail. Sit start on the underclings and climb up left past a pocket and into slopey finish. | 3m | |||
V8 | ★★ Rick Steel
One of Weill's faves. Sit start on underclings 2m left of the arete. Bust left to side pull, right to undercling pocket, then two very slopey pinches. Exit for Anonymous Arete | ||||
Sundial Peak The Bleachers Slappers Boulder | |||||
V4 | ★★ Slappers Arete
The left arete. Stand start on opposing side-pulls past a pinch to top out. | 3m | |||
V7 | ★★ Slapper's Arete (sit-start)
Sit start down left on side pulls. | 3m | |||
V2 | ★ Pimply Pinches
The groove using eponymous pimply pinches. | 3m | |||
V1 | ★ High & Mighty
Sit or stand start, up blunt arete to tricky finish. | 3m | |||
V7 | ★★ The Dog-House
Climb the back left arête of the Slapper's Arête boulder. Starting lowest left hand side pull and slopey right hand sidepull. | 4m | |||
V3 | ★★ Hesitation and Temptation
On the backside of the Slappers Boulder. Stand-start on side pulls. Head directly up the tall face using side pulls, an undercling, and smeary feet. Once at the juggy rail, steady your resolve and go straight up using a crimp then a pimply pinch. A pikers variant escapes right once at the juggy rail. | 5m | |||
Sundial Peak The Bleachers Den of Dwarfs | |||||
V1 | ★★ Pony
| 2m | |||
V2 | ★ Dwarf Power
| 3m | |||
V2 | ★ Dwarf Bleaus
Sit start on sloping rail (2m right of Dwarf Power), move left then straight up good holds of Dwarf Power. FA: owyongtc | 2m | |||
V2/3 | ★ A Dwarf's Delight
Sit start on low big edge directly opposite Dwarf Power. Move up on sloping sidepulls and edges around the vertical weakness to an easier top out. | 2m | |||
V3 | ★★ Watch Yo Ass
Just to the right of The Crescent. Sit-start on the obvious shelf, press up and top out. Watch the tree. FA: Pat | 2m | |||
V6 | ★ Tap the tit
On the back of The Crescent, Start on the large rail and move through the slopey edges. FA: Pat | ||||
V0 | ★ The Crescent
| 2m | |||
V0 | ★ Mini Rig
| 2m | |||
Sundial Peak The Bleachers Frankston Boulders | |||||
V5 | ★ Derailed
Sit start. Make a big move over the lip. | 2m | |||
V0 | Aero Bar
| ||||
V2 | Chooks Grovel
| ||||
V5 | Like Stealing Candy From a Baby
| ||||
V4 | Kleptocracy
| ||||
V1 | Victim
| ||||
Sundial Peak The Bleachers All Betts are Off | |||||
V3 | Reversal of Fortune
| ||||
Sundial Peak The Bleachers Crooked Moon Boulder | |||||
V3 | Runnel Trouble
An aesthetic vertical face that see's little attention. Start on right side of the face crouched on low vertical seam and climb left across concave face, topping out on left. FA: Kade Wilson | 3m | |||
V3 | Crooked Moon
To the right of Runnel Trouble. Stand start and climb the vertical face/slab on gym-like edges balancing your way up. Can be done from a sit-start at the same grade for full value. FA: Kade Wilson | 3m | |||
Sundial Peak The Bleachers Questionable Buttress | |||||
V1 | Questionable Sequence
SDS at lighter coloured section of wall with good left crimp for your left hand, move up to right hand pinch, and continue moving up to match finish on slopey top FA: Oliver Robson, 17 Nov 2018 | ||||
V1 | Questionable Traverse
Start as for Questionable Sequence, but move right onto good rail before top-out, and continue moving right along slopey rails until you meet the other boulder Grade is just for the start, traverse is pretty chill - would ideally be topped out onto the ledge on the right side where there's enough space to actually get up, but would need a darn good brush first! FA: Oliver Robson, 17 Nov 2018 |