Routes as boulder in Halls Gap Area

Likely not a 1st but anyway

Start as for Man Overboard, bust horizontally left and get left hand to descent side pull, launch right hand to where your left hand was on thank god the kids are gone, then left hand up to good edge, bump left hand again to monster rounded jug, right hand stretch directly up to good hold, then pop right again and balance your way through the top out. First two moves feel like a v2 then v0 to finish.

Start matched as for Man Overboard, but continue traversing left and top out on the left of the prow. Watch out for dodgy broken rock.

Start Matched on the big juggy flake under the roof, move up & left through sloper to funky rail, then up and right through overhang on good holds to a bit of a spicy top out.

Three quite fun moves! Sit Start with funky pockets on the left under the Juggy Flake. Figure out how to pull of the ground then move to the jug, and (dynamically) up and right to a sloper on the lip of the overhang. Top out directly with a gnarly mantle!!! Don't be temped to escape left to an easier top out. Can be started deep in the overhang on crimps at about V6 (V6 FA: Oliver Tobias Bug?)

Note: Community feedback prompted grade change from V3 to V4.

Start on jugs on the right of the main overhang, climb straight up to a surprisingly spicy top out slightly to the left. Can be started on crimps deeper in the cave if you feel like adding a move or two. Please don't break your face on the top-out, you have been warned...

Start as for Tug Boat but traverse left past Axolotl on small but decent holds, rise up and continue left around overhang to top out as for Man Overboard. Guaranteed to get a pump happening.

Sit start basically under the boulder with hands on big incut rail. Go up through sloper and crimps to topout at the tallest point on the boulder.

Start on the centre of the easy wall. Go up and left and finish in the jug flake on the top left of the face.

Middle of wall, topout on jug to the right.

A deceptively tricky handcrack. Done with gloves at the grade, would be a bit harder without, and may require more skin that you are willing to give.

The steep overhang 6m left of The Beanstalk is marked by a thin seam, followed by a necky headwall high above a back breaking boulder. Will go, but it will be hard and terrifying.

The thin, high seam 3m left of The Beanstalk may be climbable.

The all too obvious seam up the west face.

Just right of the corridor (in front of a tree) are some vertical seams dropping down from the top of the boulder. Climb them from a stand start.

Start just right of Tweedle Dum, head left and up to the high rails and top out.

From a stand start just left of the tree in the middle of the face, climb the vertical seams on side pulls.

Just right of the tree in the middle of the face. From the edge and side pull, climb the seam above.

Stand start above a covered hole at the right end of the face. Climb the short face above.

Doesn't look like much but packs in some hard technical climbing. From a desperate sit start off side pulls climb the boulders nose past increasingly sloping holds.

Our advice would be not to make this your first V2. The easy line up the middle of the face 2m right of the tree, finishing just left of the crack at top.

Stand start on large jugs on face and move up through side pulls and crimps to a committing crux high off the ground. Rent a spotter or 3.

Start on obvious chalked rail (half a metre right of Ceramics) and work your way up the arête to a committing few moves up high.

The slab L of the tree up the back of the Ceramics boulder. Start just at the loose looking flake down low.

The R arete of the back of the Ceramics boulder, R of the tree, 3m of Broken China. Worth a pad or two to fill the landing.

In the cleft right of Mars Attacks is a diagonal pencil seam. Climb the seam from a stand start via several desperate moves - watch your back.

Climbs the blunt prow of the spaceship boulder from a sit start.

Sit start on small side pull edges then up with difficulty compressing heinous slopers on the awesome prow/arete (slightly left of line in printed guide)

The line in the print guide, which is not how Arnie climbed First Blood. Start as for FB but shoulder up out of the flake to crap then better sloper pockets in seam to regain upper flake.

Sit start on left hand arete (be careful of the edge now) traversing right using the lowest holds before finishing up First Blood.

https://www.instagram.com/p/C6A0yY2SpA-/

Sit start on the left side of the boulder and climb the arete to top out. Careful of the drop off.

Just left of the right end of the boulder is a scaly purple streak. Climb dimples to the shallow pocket, from where you make a big move left, finishing up the scoop.

Just another high quality, high and mighty, terrifying highball. 3m above the main track is a high purple jug. From this climb the slab and seam above.

The blunt arete on the track with a dihedral corner is climb from a stand start off a flat top jug.

Left of S&M Arete is an easy runnel that is climbed from a stand start.

Climb the juggy face right of arete from a sit.

The right arete doesn't look hard at first blush, but closer inspection reveals few holds. From a stand start balance up to a relenting finish.

Stand start just right of tree, finishing via a desperate mantel.

From the same start as Bath Shark, climb left and up to a hard mantel.

Short and punchy. From a sit start on slopey edge and side pull, follow the prominent seam to a slabby exit.

Climbs the right arete. Start on the faux tufa and follow the vertical seams up the blunt arete to top out.

The slab on the back (just right of the arete) may need a bit of a clean before you wobble up it.

The beautiful cracked face is deceptively hard. From the stand start climb the face past a very hard deadpoint.

From the start holds of TBC, climb the diagonal rightwards.

Good warm up. Sit start on low jugs down and right of the start of TBC. Climb up and right.

Sit start on crimps, head left and up through gaston and crimp to a high top out.

Sit start on crimps, head right and up via very hard and shouldery moves.

Start on the chalked crack just to the right of the V3. Head straight up.

Sit-start on sloping rail. Trend up and right using slopers and eventually jugs.

Tricky start, eases as you go. From a sit start on the finger jug, climb up the juggy wall.

Sit start as per the V1, then head up and left to top out.

Sit start with chalked-up LH pocket and RH gaston.

Bridge between the boulders to establish feet on the rail for v5 problem and the larger boulder. Use the big holds along the crack to traverse the boulder and finish on the V0 at the other end. Finish is the hardest part.

Sit start on low flakey rail, pull up onto large flat rail and make tricky move left to sloper and top out.

Sit start as with other problem on boulder then head left, Dyno to good crimp, delicate top out.

Climb You Beaut to the crimp. Then make a big span left to the arete. Match and hold the swing before swarming around the arete to finish up the slab.

On the back side of the boulder (left of where the 2 boulders rest against each other), sit start on the flat hold, up to slopers and short face.

Located on the backside of the larger boulder, near where the two boulders touch. Sit start the left crack.

Great climbing on a solid line. Sit start on the jug at the bottom of the rising diagonal cleft, which is followed rightward to top out on the far right of the boulder.

Start as for easy lane. RH to sidepull just above start jug, wind up and hit the diagonal. Finish up left. 1 mover.

The easy arete is climbed from a sit.

Just up the hill from Diagonal Laneway boulder. Start off big side pull and crimp, head up through spanny moves. Bit sandy but still worthy.

Techy bridging that follows seams up the groove to the left of Immersion.

On the east side of the boulder (facing downstream) is a blunt arete. From a sit start (the stand is a very good V8 in its own right) climb the edges right of the seam. Long moves lead to a tricky conclusion. Try not to ping off into the creek.

Start on flat jug, use the seam to stand up and hop for a slopey hold. Topout is tall and mossy but easy.

High and dangerous. On the back side is a short slab that leads to a sickle crack.

Sit start. Left hand and right hand on lower flake (somewhat hugging the boulder). Bump up left hand, heel hook right leg. Bump up right hand, heel hook left leg, then make your way up the boulder.

Start as for "Silver Linings" before traversing rightward and up slopers and jugs.

Sit start around R of SL on an obvious positive edge. Up L on the slopes and side pulls.

1 metre left of Stoplight Arete, sit start in crack and layback up corner. Fun.

Start as for Stoplight Arete but bust out left via under clings and up face.

Sit start/crouched on slopey edges and up pinching up the arete.

Classic. Stand start on small crimp edges, move left into corner and make a committing few moves up to large holds to top out.

Balance up the slab.

The best rock you can take your non-climber date to climb on. On the downhill side on the blouder use large flake to traverse miles left to a topout on the far left of the boulder. Enjoy the view at the top.

Start as for The BFG on the large Flake, but climb up and over the obvious set of witch tits. If you fall you will need some sorcery to fix your broken legs.

Sit start on the magical pumpkin low in the cave. Make unlikely movements up and left past the love heart hold to gain a stsnce on a small ledge. Standard finish is here and climb left down. Alternate scary leg breaking extension goes into Witch Tits.

Start as for Rapunzel on the magic pumpkin, but trend up and left with difficulty to the tallest part of the boulder. A tad contrived.

Sit start low on the Magic Pumpkin, move powerfully up and right through the awesomely featured face to gain the top.

Stand start with holds above head height to avoid the hard first few moves of Rapunzel. Still great fun.

Make the first few moves of Rapunzel, but before the topout traverse powerfully rightward a few meters and gain the top to the right side of the over-hanging prow.

This is the stand start to Peter Pantastic. Start with decent handholds at or above head height, follow rightwards to top of Peter Pantastic.

On the South facing side of the boulder. Sit start below off width crack (Jack), slap and climb your way up the rock on the right hand side of the offwidth. Actually quite fun movement.

The horrible overhanging off width at the back of the boulder with "Jill". Sit start with your body in the chasm and work your way up and outta there! Don't break your crown.

On the downhill side of the boulder, from far right traverse leftwards using the obvious sloping crack accross the overhanging wall and topout frighteningly at the tallest point of the face. Mega

Start low in the centre of the steep overhanging face and magically float up the faux-holds that make this incredibly hard project. Was once tried by Finnish Powerhouse Nalle H. Very damn hard.

On the downhill face of the boulder, on the left side lies this project. Start low with bad underclings, move up through difficult slopers to topout. Super aesthetic & mega hard.

On the South Facing vertical wall, at the Eastern end. Start on side pull jug, climb rails up and right to an awkward topout, followed by a long easy scramble to the summit of Juju Rock.

On the South facing wall, traverse on obvious crimpy rail from far right to left finishing matched where the rail ends. A fantastic line for the grade.

Start at the end of Cocaine. Pull onto crimps, make a big move up to side pull. Continue up over bulge and slab with great technical movements.

Link Cocaine into Overdose. Long, pumpy, powerful, technical, awesome!

Start low left of Overdose on small crimps. Make a few powerful moves up over small holds leading to the start holds of Overdose, continue up.

The fantastic short ripple-textured wall on the uphill face of the boulder, far right hand side. Start with the crimps at face height and campus until you can put your feet somewhere useful before topping out right. This is also the easiest way off the Juju Boulder as its not far to jump to the ground from the upper holds of Trippa Snippa.

From the big rock to the right of TFOTL, pull on and climb rightwards over small technical holds to finish above Trippa Snippa. Eliminate the juggy rail up high, stay low and techy.

The moderate variant to TFOTL, still very worthwhile. Step off the boulder on the right pulling onto the first major sloper of TFOTL and continue up.

Climb the best part of Fat Mans Land through the two perfect slopers, then shamefully escape right to the ledge because you hate highballs and you climb in a gym too much. Could also be started as for The Fat Of The Land, but if you're that strong and you escape right then you deserve a paddling.

The beefy main line of slopers going to the top of the uphill side of the boulder. Sit start on crimps and bad feet, climb up and right before big moves through the slopers and to the top.

Just left of TFOTL is this mega project on fire orange bullet proof rock. Stand start on obvious side pull hold, beast your way up and left through a series of small holds and powerful movements. Was an Ollie Miller project when he was a Grampians man. Estimated V14~ish

Follow the long tall hanging corner from the far left end of the uphill side of the Juju Boulder. Hard moves have stopped all attempts at 1/3 height so far. Won't be impossibly hard in the end.