Routes as boulder in North Grampians

The straight up problem off the slot and edge.

Same start as previous problem but head right through the twin pockets then up through twin edges and top out.

Long deadpoint to slopey crimp from slopey pockets.

Starts with the same moves as Inspector Gadget then head out left to crimp rail & finish up at Ultra Deluxe

Starts right of 'Inspector Gadget'. Sharp pocket (LH) to slopey edge, then pocket to jug. 2016 guidebook grade

An eliminate dyno from the slopey crimps (LH one with prominent thumb catch)straight to the letterbox slot (right of 'The Claw').

Up through undercling and along the lip to surprisingly difficult mantle.

Starts left of 'Butt Gravity'. Sit start up on the ledge with the large pocket on the vague arete and make a big move into the huge slot. Make further big moves through the lip, then head right through the huecos following the obvious line leading to a top-out up and right. Has a reputation for being hard for the grade, particularly if you are short.

Follow 'Silly Putty' to the lip, then head directly up through juggy flakes.

Sit start low under the roof matching a slot, then out to a pocket, crimp, then BIG move up and left to a good 4-finger pocket. Join 'Silly Putty' at the top. Sharp.

Link up of 'Butt Gravity' into Race Eater Variant.

As for 'Happy Camper' but keep traversing leftwards to join 'Butt Gravity' and finish up that problem. Crux is the big move to the 4-finger pocket (on 'Butt Gravity').

Climb NSAM to the traverseline, then head left along the line of small crimps. Completely finger size dependant. Watch your back. 2016 guidebook grading

As per Grampians bouldering guide.

Start as for 'Butt Gravity' but head directly out to traverseline of Race Eater. Traverse right all the way to the start of 'NSAM' and finish up this.

Sit start in big hueco (as for Happy Camper & Race Eater), then head straight out to letterbox slot and sloper. Dyno to good hold. Topout's not as easy as it seems... Arguably about as hard as 'Silly Putty'.

Start as for the original problem then head left and up through the sloper and edge. Rarely done.

Sit start 3m left of 'No Sex After Mushrooms'. Up to double pocket and beyond.

Start as for 'NSAM' to seam then traverse and finish up 'Boundary'

Sit start with the a left edge and right hand pocket and head straight through the roof via a slopey rail followed by a big move to a deep pocket. Make another big move to the good edge on the lip, then directly up for the jugs.

The RH line. Starts on a hold below the sloper traverse line then gains this and heads right via some small crimps, slopers to eventually finish up the V1.

Uhuru channel

Start as for the 'Unnamed' V1 then keep traversing the break leftwards to finish up Ross's Problem.

Sit start right of 'Gay Hip Flexor' and traverse left a few moves, then up on jugs through the groove to finish. A couple of fun variants exist straight through the roof here as well.

A variation within the Butthole Cave. Starts just left of 'Butthole Surfer', then heads directly out through the roof in the direction of the No Sex With Mushrooms boulder.

Another variation within the Butthole Cave. Starts as for 'Minus', then bisects the 'Worm Saloon' traverseline via a big move out to the lip.

This and the next 4 problems are located on the raised ledge of the 'Butthole Surfer' Cave, within view of 'Gay Hip Flexor' down and to the left.

Low roof starting with a sit-start on a terrace and heading directly out to the lip and up overhanging face.

Liting

The very dangerous problem just right of 'Butthole Surfer' and climbing out to the obvious pockets on the overhanging face above and bad landing (the drop off the terrace).

A gourmet for sure, starts on an obvious rail, finishes on top. two small crimps lead up the center of the face, and a big move to the jug/lip. simple and sweet

Sit start with sidepull and pocket. Move up and Lt to sharp crimps. Top out left of block on top.

Sit start with side pull and pockets. Desperately to small crimps then dyno to lip when falling off.

Sit start at lip on LHS of cave and up left side on good holds

Start at back of cave and head out through roof on LHS to finish up.

Same start as connection through roof to hard mantle with pocket over low lip at side of cave.

Franz

The direct to Da-Lai-Lahmung going straight up from the big pocket via a big move and topping out.

Hiroshi channel

Beta dependant. Standing start. Up to poor pocket, then big move up to large pocket. Re-arrange the hands, then out right to the intermediate edge, then big span (or trickery) out to the jug on the arete. Match this and motor up on more jugs to top-out.

Hiroshi

This problem is located on a seperate boulder behind the Da Lai Lahmung area. It takes the major line from a sit start then through the roof.

Crouch start on low pocket-jug and raised edge. Move through roof pockets to good holds higher up. Traverse lip to mantle finish.

Start as for Jugged on triangular hold and head right on slopers and crimps to finish as for Jugged.

Stand starts with a left hand slot and a right hand shallow pocket, move up and left on some pockets then top out onto the slab above.

Starts as 'S.O.S.' but climbs straight up.

Start as for 'Drowning Dicaprio', make some hard moves to gain the large side-pull, then climb left and finish as for 'Overboard'.

Start as for 'Iceberg Left' but continue straight up and top out onto the slab. Note: Broken crux hold as of 2021, yet to be re-climbed. Likely at least V11 now.

Low awkward start at the base of the flake line, traverse right on some holds in the seam then make a big move to continue up on jugs.

Start on two underclings (don't stack pads) then move up to the rail and finish as for 'Drowning Dicaprio'.

Start as for 'Collision Course' but after you gain the large rail continue right across some slopers to finish up 'Not Drowning, Waving'.

Sit Start on the jug almost in between the two boulders, climb to the top on good holds.

Sit start in the corner to the right of 'Not Drowning, Waving' and climb up the crack.

SS with pockets on right side of small but deep cave. Technically up and left via seam and pockets in face to top out .

Sit start with pockets on the right hand side of the low but deep cave. Move up to holds in the seam and left to pockets around the bulge and finish p the face.

SS with letterbox jug past small edge in roof to the lip. Mantle.

SS on slope edges under nose. Back through roof via slot and knob pinch to top out.

Sit start at bucket low on wall right of arete. Climb up and left on jugs/slot to mantle.

Sit start and climb the right diagonal up to the corner and extremely high top out

Sit start and mantle straight up.

Start matched on the giant jug, move up to the pocket and jump!

Start: Original problem on the lefthand side of the wall, starting with a sit-start.

'The Show Must Go On' is a harder version coming in from the bottom right.

Start in the back of the cave on the massive jug rail. Make your way to the lip and traverse all the way left using tricky footwork, then head up as for Curtain Call to match on the sharp jug.

This line also has a direct variant that heads straight up from the lip to the crimp rail and finishes as for Encore. This line differs to Grand Opening as you can use the left side of the wall.

Start as for "The Show Must Go On" on the massive jug rail. Go directly up to thin edge on the lip and finish the same as Encore. This line differs to "The Show Must Go On" as it eliminates the left sidewall. It requires tricky foot work, big biceps, and excellent tension to get out of the cave. The bat hang is one way, but is there another?

Start in the back of the cave as for 'The Show Must Go On'. Using the undercut crack, climb right and finish as for 'Encore'.

Sit start on the curving crack. Move left using pockets and crimps. Traverse into the higher of the two rails and finish as for "The Show Must Go On"

Start as for Encore but head directly up then rightward to finish as for "Distress" (V0).

Start as for 'Damsel' , make a few moves left past pocket to nondescript finish.

From horizontal, up and right to sharp pocket then up to break.

Big move to small edge, then big move to jug

Start: From low horizontal

Start: Takes a right-trending line across the wall starting just right of 100 Pound Club's start holds.

Takes the right-trending line via the odd pocket just left of 'Epsilon Crack'.

Start of fin/jug and use crack to gain high edge. Up to finishing jug.

Sit start on two angled slots and move up and left on crimps to finish on Epsilon Crack jug.

Steep face on pockets, slopers and edges

Start: As for 'Down Under'

Very low sit-start then traverse left - then back right to finish on the good jug. The direct straight up from the pockets (dyno) is V4/5.

Short problem on the right-side of the wall with a very awkward low sit-start.

Sit start 4m left of the start to Pussy Power (just right of the route 'Skip Transit Gloria' with LH undercling and RH poor pinch/crimp. Pull on, slap to pocket around lip, then adjacent sloper and finish as for Pussy Power.

This line starts from a low sit start (left of the route 'Let X=X') using an undercling, then traverses left across small crimps to better holds in the break on the final face. Finish at the high pocket. Very reminiscent of 'Seam Grip' at Andersens.

The imposing face across to the right from PP. Stand start with high crimp. Up to the two bad pinches, then punch up to the lip. Finish on good holds out left.

Sit start off the pedestal left of Snow Mike, bust straight out the roof with some tension before topping out the cliff.

Low start in cave. Big moves lead to finish jug above boulder. The extension is V7 on its own.

Left line of slopers through roof to jugs. Traverse right, up to next level and back left to jug.

Start at possum overhang, make moves into undercling and then pop out right into tim and kyles big love.

Sit start to central line through roof to join PO.

Sit start to right hand line through roof joining PO.

Popular, despite the fact that it is the only boulder of the crag and requires a considerable hike in to get to.

Upper Cave.

Sit-start on the down-sloping jug and reach out right to gain the upper rampline. Topout if you're game enough.

Upper Cave.

Sit-start in the LH corner and climb out to the good left-trending rampline to finish as for 'Smog'.

Upper Cave.

Links 'Fog' into 'Dead Heat'.

Upper Cave.

Rumoured to be a total classic at the grade - and it looks like it too. Sit-start left of 'I Feel So Holy' and motor up through the pockety featers on the steep wall to the big slopey break. Shuffle rightwards to a high-ish topout.

Upper Cave.

Has quite a reputation... One of the best problems for its grade. Starts just left of 'Donald'. Sit-start on two opposing sidepulls and climb the central 'rib' line directly via a very bad sloper, a pinch, and some sneaky footwork. Can also be done via a LH sequence using a big move to a bad sloper (RH) - then to the slopers on the lip, before moving up to the high jug. Solid at the grade either way.

Uhuru film channel

Satoshi

Upper Cave.

A V3 that looks like a V5... Sit-start on the rightside of the big hollow scoop and climb up to the big sloper. Topout leftwards via a better hold.

Upper Cave.

A great looking arete-type weakness that isn't too hard for the grade. Climb the obvious line just right of 'Donald's' start and head right to finish.