Grade | Route | Gear style | Popularity | ||
---|---|---|---|---|---|
Mt Stapylton Amphitheatre Citadel | |||||
V4 | ★★★ Cock Toe
| 5m | |||
V8 | ★★ Penguin Biceps
| ||||
V9 | ★★ Pingu's Last Stand
| ||||
V5 | ★ Right Penguin
Sit-start and climb out of the cave. Top out through the gap through weird mantel. V3-4 if you drop off the jug, V5 if you top out. Beware chossy hold/chockstone on top out. | 3m | |||
V6 | ★ Penguin
| 3m | |||
V6 | ★★ Left Penguin
| ||||
V5 | ★★ Scaredy Cat
Start as for Scary Monster and traverse left from as high as the first pocket, around the arête and up the slab. Set: Sam Lothringer & Matthew Lu | ||||
V6 | ★★ Scary Monster
Isolated highball problem away from the main 'Citadel'. | ||||
V7 | ★★ Tucked In
Start as for SM, but avoid the pocket and stick to the arête. Slightly contrived, but offers some impressive and committing climbing. FA: Kyle Meredith-Peck, 2023 | ||||
V11 | Project Traverse
Possibly the traverse completed by Dai Koyamada - starting from the V2 start hold - then traversing right to the finish of 'Mad Max' - unconfirmed. | ||||
V7 | ★★★ Skidmark
in a small 'toilet' cave directly behind ammagamma 20m, stand start matched in left pocket, big move right to pocket then directly up to slot, top out through gap in roof. very good could have been done eons ago but couldn't find any history on it. FA: cairo hazell, 2013 | ||||
V6 | Silica Superhighway
| ||||
V13 | The Bear and the Piano
Start on the left hand sidepull and right hand crimp. FA: Tom O'Halloran, May 2022 | ||||
Mt Stapylton Amphitheatre Cave Club | |||||
V4 | ★ Skim Milk
Start: Sit-start left of the 'Cave Club' cave. | 4m | |||
V6 | ★★ Full Cream
A direct start to 'Skim Milk' - finishing as for that problem. | 4m | |||
V7 | ★★ Whipped Cream
Start as for Full Cream and make a big throw right to blocky holds trending up to finish at the highest hold on the face. Good and dynamic. | 4m | |||
V5 | ★★ Affenschaukel
Start as for 'Cave Club' and head left. Name History: Affenschaukel - German feminine noun meaning looped plait (Brit) or braid (US). | ||||
V10 | ★★★ Cave Club
Start as for 'Apfenschaukel', but head right through a big gaston move. 2nd ascent was quickly made by Toni Lamprecht in about 5 minutes! FA: Klem Loskot, 1999 | ||||
V0 | Project
Starting right of 'Cave Club' and heading rightwards across the wall. Still unclimbed? | ||||
V13 | ★★ Sultan of Swing
FA: Alex Megos | ||||
V11/12 | Full Bean
Heads straight up just right of the start of Sultans of Swing. Pending details. | ||||
Summerday Valley Left Wall | |||||
V3 | ★★★ Kiwi
| 4m | |||
Hollow Mountain (N & NE side of Mt. Stapylton) Echidna Wall (bouldering) | |||||
V1 | ★ Baby Steps
Traverse left on large pockets. Follow line of pockets down around the arete and corner (reversible at the same grade). FA: 10 Sep 2016 | 8m | |||
V2 | ★ Floss
Sit start at base of crack. Pocket and crimp to ledges and jams. Fun! | 6m | |||
V5 | ★ daves v5
standing start on crimp and gaston. (much harder sit start looks good) FA: Dave Jones, May 2017 | 6m | |||
V3/4 | ★★ V3-4
Standing start. Up wall on side pulls and layaways to a pinch at 5m, then 'hero' jugs to the top. Fun! Spooky. FA: Gareth Llewellin, 17 Sep 2016 | 7m | |||
V7 | ★★ Crouching Leopard Hidden Pansy
Start up Crouching Leopard Hidden Orchid to the crux then head left to the pocket of the V3-4. You only get the V7 if you traverse into the V3-4 above the side jug and don't use it. FFA: Adam Demmert, 15 Oct 2016 | ||||
★★★ Crouching Leopard Hidden Orchid (Project)
Start below Live long and Prosper he'd diagonally left and then up the blank grey wall | |||||
V7 | ★★ Live long and Prosper
Start as for Vulcan Grip and head left and up increasing in difficulty to a final mono before popping to the welcome jug FFA: adam demmert, 24 Sep 2016 | 7m | |||
V4 | ★★ Vulcan Grip
Sit start. Make the sign, then up rightwards to flake/pinch. Up. Fun! FA: Gareth Llewellin, 17 Sep 2016 | 7m | |||
V1 | ★★ New sound
Up prominent 'mini' corner via finger lock. FA: Anna, 10 Sep 2016 | 5m | |||
V2 | ★ Toothless
Up and left via rail and seam. FA: 10 Sep 2016 | 5m | |||
V5 | ★★ SpaceX (V5-ish)
Rail to jug over rooflet (via blank wall). Fuel up the rocket boosters! | 5m | |||
V4 | ★★★ No apologies
Sit start, then up side pulls/undercling to crimp to high jug. Continue up right with a big reach or pike left. Great fun! FA: Gareth Llewellin, 17 Sep 2016 | 5m | |||
V5 | ★ Gareth's Problem
Hard 3 moves - Sit start still waiting to be done FFA: Gareth Llewellin, 1 Oct 2016 | ||||
V3 | ★ More Candy
Start as for Too Much Candy when it heads back right head out left to a good hold in the streak then up FFA: adam demmert, 1 Oct 2016 | ||||
V3 | ★ Too much candy
Sit start then up left via rail to pocket then up wall above veering slightly back right. Traverse off right or up through spooky gargoyles. | 6m | |||
V2 | ★ You can't handle the tooth!
Sit start to crimps. Up. FA: 10 Sep 2016 | 6m | |||
V3 | ★★ The Echidna's Underbelly
Climb the underbelly and out to the left of the Echidna! Sit-start as for Echidna's Nose with LH low on left arete and RH on good crimp. Stay low and make tension-y moves out left to the juggy flake. From here, make a hard move to the good crimp rail, and then powerful moves into the scoop. Finish up trending left. Eliminates obvious broken ledges and pedestal ledge. FA: Jamie, 4 Jul 2022 | 3m | |||
V2 | ★ The Right Echidna
Starts the same as The Echidna's Underbelly until the juggy flake. From the juggy flake, make a big move up and right to more jugs without using the obvious right arete (i.e., don't use holds from Echidna's Nose). Eliminates obvious broken ledges and pedestal ledge. FA: Jamie, 4 Jul 2022 | 3m | |||
V2 | ★ Echidna's Nose
The overhanging arete on the lone block in the middle of the crag. Exit on the left side of the nose. Eliminates obvious broken ledges and pedestal ledge. FA: 10 Sep 2016 | 3m | |||
Hollow Mountain (N & NE side of Mt. Stapylton) Andersens Amnesty Metrosexual Boulder | |||||
V1 | ★ Metrosexual
| 3m | |||
V3 | ★★ Thumbs Up
| 3m | |||
Hollow Mountain (N & NE side of Mt. Stapylton) Andersens Amnesty Gun Buttress Boulder | |||||
V9 | ★ Dave Jones Traverse
FFA: Dave Jones presumably | ||||
V9 | Vendetta
| ||||
V7 | ★★ Artillery
| ||||
V8 | ★★ Bismarck
| ||||
Hollow Mountain (N & NE side of Mt. Stapylton) Andersens Amnesty Upper Gun Buttress | |||||
V1 | ★ baby wipes
Sit start with left hand on square positive sidepull (I presume this problem was first done long ago). | ||||
V3 | ★ one pad only
Stand start to climb arete. (I presume this was first done long ago) | ||||
V8 | ★ Doctors Orders
Only climbs on RHS of big seam. FA: Michael Tonon, 3 Aug 2018 | 4m | |||
V8 | ★★ Prescribed Happiness
Stand start in the break, follow seam up and left to high top out. FA: Michael Tonon, 3 Aug 2018 | 6m | |||
V3 | ★★★ Minute Man
Highball on jugs. | 6m | |||
V7 | ★★ Silent Observer
Sit start on the right arete on the juggy feature. Make your way up the arete to top out. Overhung arête right of Minute Man. | 5m | |||
V4 | ★★ A minutes observation
Start as for Minute Man, then traverse the face to link up with Silent Observer on the arête and follow for the top out on slab. Not official name, please let us know if you FA'd it and would like naming rights | 7m | |||
V8 | ★★★ Thoughts Of A Dying Athiest
FA: Pat Reynolds | 6m | |||
Hollow Mountain (N & NE side of Mt. Stapylton) Andersens Amnesty Courtyard Boulder | |||||
V0 | ★ Tom Thumb
| 2m | |||
Hollow Mountain (N & NE side of Mt. Stapylton) Andersens Amnesty B1 Boulder | |||||
V2 | ★ Feminine Touch
| 4m | |||
V0 | ★ The Air Below
| 4m | |||
V2 | ★ Banana Slab
| 4m | |||
V1 | ★ Mountain Man
| 4m | |||
V6 | ★★★ Transcience
| ||||
V6 | ★★ Puppet Master
| ||||
Hollow Mountain (N & NE side of Mt. Stapylton) Andersens Amnesty Horsepens Boulder | |||||
V3 | ★★★ Horsepens Arête
Start with a dimple on the arête and the horizontal seam on the right face. Follow the slopey holds to the top. | 3m | |||
Hollow Mountain (N & NE side of Mt. Stapylton) Andersens Amnesty Wing Boulder | |||||
V2 | ★ Little Wing
| 3m | |||
Hollow Mountain (N & NE side of Mt. Stapylton) Andersens Amnesty Brembo Boulder | |||||
V3 | Brembo
| 3m | |||
V3 | ★ Lateralus
| 3m | |||
V1 | Slam Dunk
| 3m | |||
Hollow Mountain (N & NE side of Mt. Stapylton) Andersens Left Main Sponge Bob Boulder | |||||
V0 | Now that we're men
Starts on the the left side of Spongebob boulder and climbs the arete to the same finish. We have facial hair... We change our underwear FA: Richard West, 12 Oct 2018 | 3m | |||
V3 | ★ Sponge Bob
| 3m | |||
Hollow Mountain (N & NE side of Mt. Stapylton) Andersens Left Main B2 Boulder | |||||
V4 | Cotton Camel
| ||||
V2 | ★ Buck Deluxe
Stand start on the yellow jug in the middle of the wall. | ||||
V3 | ★ X2
Sit start just right of Buck Deluxe, matched on flat sidepull. | ||||
Hollow Mountain (N & NE side of Mt. Stapylton) Andersens Left Main Gas Boulder | |||||
V0 | Pygmy
| 5m | |||
V7 | Earth Summit
| 5m | |||
V5 | ★★ Hormone Express
| 5m | |||
V5 | ★ Feeling Oblivion
| 5m | |||
V3 | ★★ Once Removed
Excellent rising line starting on Gas jugs drifting u and left to high finish. | 6m | |||
V6 | Gas
Crux slab hold may have broken. | 5m | |||
V6 | Liquid Skin
| 4m | |||
V1 | Sookie
| 4m | |||
Hollow Mountain (N & NE side of Mt. Stapylton) Andersens Left Main B4 Boulder | |||||
★★ Manticore
| |||||
V2 | ★ Tonto
| ||||
V2 | ★ Such is Fashion
| ||||
V6 | ★ Mary Mohito
| ||||
V5 | ★★ Dos Cuchachas
| ||||
V0 | Lip Service
| ||||
Hollow Mountain (N & NE side of Mt. Stapylton) Andersens Left Main Rocks on Blocks Boulder | |||||
V7 | ★★★ Mr Knox
Sit start buried in the back of the cave on a good undercling feature.Climb out left through the roof to tricky moves gaining the lip and up the arete and dihedral feature. Glorious line! | ||||
V10 | ★★★ Etch-a-Sketch
Start as for Mr Knox. Follow the obvious line of good holds out of the cave and head right via big moves to the arete. Continue up the right-hand arete to top out. | ||||
V7 | ★★★ Mr Fox
Start as for Mr Knox but make hard moves out right of the roof to a slopey rail and follow the obvious line up to the top. | ||||
V4 | ★ Careless
| ||||
V7 | Cocaine
| ||||
V7 | ★ Fairydust
| ||||
V2 | ★★ Captain Pugwash
| 4m | |||
V4 | Rain Shadow
| ||||
V6 | ★★ Emerald Arête
| ||||
V2 | ★ Fault line
| ||||
Hollow Mountain (N & NE side of Mt. Stapylton) Andersens Left Main Wisdom Boulder | |||||
V0 | ★ Wisdom Hat
Sit-start from a jug on the right side working your way up the grooves and top out in the middle. Use right or left shoulder for V0-. Put your wisdom hat on and enjoy various ways to conquer this problem. One of the easiest V0 in 'Andersens'. You could use wide area of this face. | 2m | |||
Hollow Mountain (N & NE side of Mt. Stapylton) Andersens Left Main Zoolander Area | |||||
V6 | Blue Steel
| ||||
V8 | Hansel
| ||||
V8 | Magnum
Horrible landing. |