Routes as boulder in North Grampians

Upper Cave

Single problem right of the main business.

Middle Cave.

Traverse from the LH corner (sit-start using underclings). Hard move into the traverse, across and into 'Lonely Heart Club' via a classic drop-down move, finishing as for that problem.

Middle Cave. 2016 guidebook grading

Middle Cave

Middle Cave. 2016 guidebook grade

Upgraded from V5 to 7 in 2016 Bouldering Guide. Which seems fair!

Lower Cave.

Lower Cave.

Lower Cave.

Great line on left side of face climbing up to the seam left of definitely and avoiding all the holds up the centre. Not too hard at V7 but the hardest moves are at the top so a bit engaging. Can be climbed from stand or sit.

Start on the large sidepull, move left, then up to finish up Probably Dave.

As for the V4s but climb direct via the micro edges to gain definitely at the crack. Those with wingspan can bypass the crimps but where’s the fun in that?

Stand start on side pull in middle of face, up to crimp, then move right to the fin, to finish up Definitely.

Follow the enormous pockets edges & slopers to a high finish.

Sit start right of the arete, then move left to finish high on the arete.

Probably not the best problem on the boulder. Sandy.

Eliminate.

Start as for 'Glass Half MT' but don't escape left and stay compressing up the prow. Stay off the high jugs and the left foothold. Finishes with a big move to the top right of the prow then tops out around the right.

Peter

Jasmine The obvious prow from the break. Cool.

Sit start between GHMT and BMR below the twin seams. Out to lip via the obvious thin but positive pockets.

Starts around 4m left of GHMT. Was climbed as a huge dyno. Has also been climbed via some pretty poor intermediate slopers, which most consider to be v6.

The slopey funnel a metre or so left of Bad Moon Rising. Sit start from the break (not the underclings above). Pretty good.

Sit start on the jugs on the arete.

Sit start on the jugs on the arete.

Sit start on the slot before connecting to 'Some Days You Bore'.

Sit start on the slot.

A gym boulder. First conceived by Pat Klein as a gag boulder but actually quite fun and pretty tricky. Start facing outwards matched on the undercling crimp and crouched on the ledge, escape the small box and somehow turn around to escape on crimps up and left. Could be V4, could be V7...

Sit start. No crouch or stand start. Big shouldery move to the seam and pass crimps to top out.

Jason

Sit Start under the arete and punch straight up the nose on hard moves.

Location: The Wiggly Boulder.

Sit-start right of 'Shattering Dreams' matching a big undercling. Slap to the small edge, then mantle to finish. Harder than a lot of other 3's in the area.

Sit start 4m right of Wiggly Boy between the tree and the boulder on the shallow pockets in the vague seam. Move up on edges and mantle.

Takes the seam from a sit-start right of 'Sick Nutter' and just left of 'The V2 Sit' problem.

Sit start on the massive juggy pocket and move up passing a bad RH sloper

Starting from 'Sick Nutter' traverse left through the slopers to 'Paranoiac Critical Town' then top out.

2m R of PCT.

Climb the centre of the highball slab up to the undercling pocket and hidden jugs at the top.

Sit start on underclings in diagonal seam.

Sit start in pockets.

Sit start with left hand in pocket and right hand on side-pull.

Start on the incut holds on the rail.

Start as for "To Hate To Love" to the ledge before the roof. Mantle the ledge up to a high LH two finger pocket and continue delicately up the headwall to better holds.

Sit start on slopey rail.

The burly twin of "Ministry of Love". Sit start on the off angle slopey rail and head left to the slot and jug.Traverse the overhang right on pockets to a sloper and edges and a tricky top out.

Start as for "Ministry of Love" and move to the lip. Traverse left on slopers to finish up "To Love To Hate".

Sit start on slopey rail.

Sit start on low, horizontal seam.

Sit start in slot on the arete.

The Slab between 'Child of Love' and 'Sexy as a Turd'.

Sit start under arete on the seam.

Sit start on the low break 2m right of "Sexy Direct". Slap up to the sloper and out to a jug. Traverse up and left on good holds to finish up "Sexy as a Turd".

Sit start matched on a crimp then do a shouldery move to the undercling/gaston. The footers don't offer much assistance.

Harder than first impressions suggest. Stand start on the right two-finger pocket and a bad sloper, then launch to the well chalked sidepull, then battle to an exciting finish.

The first move is much easier if you assist the launch with a foot on the ground (but the bouldering police won't allow that).

Stand-start with high left crimp and low right crimp. Pull on, slap good pocket and punch to better holds on the lip before traversing right.

An excellent beginner problem. Sit-start on good jugs and head upward on more jugs.

Sit-start as for "__" but traverse rightward on jugs and crimps to the amazing right hand pinch. From here, head slightly up and rightward to finish on more jugs.

An excellent eliminate of the jugs is possible - (like Tim Tam Traverse but harder), but still a project.

Sit-start on giant rock using two flat-edged and blocky crimps. Pull on, punch left hand to positive crimp before tricky moves leads to a juggy exit.

The full sit-start would go as well.

Sit start on the low, chalked hold.

Left arete of the Tiger boulder left of Project #43 in the Grampians bouldering guide, starting off the ledge and using jugs to reach a thinner finish right at the top. 5m highball with a 7m drop zone.

Project no. 43

The obvious and beautiful right-leaning traverse. Stand-start on slopers and move rightward on beautiful edges and slopers. Mantel out right.

Same start as Conga Fury but instead of compressing your way up, shift left and follow the crimp line around the arete.

A nice variant to this variant is to sit start on the edges, a bit further left to the start described above, at about V4.

Jamie

The left arete starting with a RH pinch and low LH on the arete. Top out. Compression problem.

Small LH seam and good RH edge. Pounce to a pocket then top out up the groove. FA Alistair Robertson.

Start at The Oyster, make moves left on crimps on the face and top out on the far left of the boulder on pockets and mossy slopers.