Routes in Victoria Range for selected grade

Start between Rougues etc and Six on the Stick, straight up line taking third bolt of Rising Tide and last bolt of Rougues etc...nice!!

Start in chasm just left of bolted crack on right side of crag. Bridge across from rock fin (careful of average rock at start), cruise up wall on great jugs to stance, drop the clutch and straight up wall on small holds to lower off

Noddy's physics need a brush up...there are three Newton's laws, not one! Start under the nice thin crack on the L side of the wall. A great thin crack to the walk-off ledge.

A great pitch that goes all on natural gear. Follow the first pitch of Darwin's Theory to the second thread in the huecos (just below the piton). From the big thread, traverse out right across the weakness that is visible leading all the way across into Archimedes' Principle, finishing as for that route.

Grey seam on Upper Tier

Maybe 25? Undercut start as for Pump Action and 3 Minute Rule, up left leading shallow corner to undercling traverse (crux) and into Me and My Gun, up this to lower off. Use long draws on second and third bolts and first bolt of Me and My Gun (at end of traverse)

Leftmost of the good pocketed routes. Easy pocketed start to left slanting weakness, then fingery crux up grey wall.

Start on 'Hysteria Lane' and traverse across to 'Widow of Opportunity'

Possibly Nick's finest new route? A long intricate and technical wall with an exposed finish. Start at the base of ramp a little left of Gibber. Stem shallow corner to BR and pockets. Up past 2nd BR and more pockets to horizontal line. Right leading flake passed 3 FH's gains face just left of arête. Up superb face with small wires and cams before arête can be gained. Finish up arête.

The second pitch goes up through the sensational overhangs with some runouts and several no-hands rests.

1. 15m (23) Sustained under-clinging leads to semi-hanging belay.

2. 25m (24) From belay, go right, up, and back left, weaving around arete to belay below final roof.

3. 15m (17) Step left, up, traverse right and up.

Steep cracky goodness. Hand to finger. Way over left on a separate wall.

Further along the cliff past the obvious cave with a crack in it. A powerful start past 2 bolts leads to very fun jugging rightward past some good gear, head up when you can past more gear to then head back leftwards on a rising traverse past 2 more bolts, with a tricky finish.

A grand route with solid climbing well out from runners.

Start: Start at the left end of the long ledge under the main wall, under a small flake high up.

1. 40m (24) Move up on the left, then balance delicately up right to a break. Move right then precariously up to the next break. Traverse back left then straight up to the flake. Step left at top of flake and boldly up wall above to stance.

2. 30m (-) Up, then tend left up wall until able to gain right-hand end of huge horizontal block at the summit overhang. Pull over roof-line to top.

Steepo left leading cave route on far left side of crag. Sport all the way.

Choss. Like climbing the worst sea cliff in Sydney. Not sure why Malcolm did this?!

7 bolts across lovely flake feature.

Furthest right of the upper tier routes. Crazy roof climbing. Belay off double FHs. Three FHs on the route itself. No anchor so back jump to clean.

Sporty incuts up a sustained face, then exciting trad climbing up a steep weakness. Starts about 8m right of 'Wings of Desire' and 3m left of 'Trust'. Traverse left across pocketed wall (two FHs) then up the face above past horizontal break (cams) and onto face proper. Edge for pleasure on sideways sloping rails (three FHs) to crux move right into seam crack. Up this crack with a dogleg left past a huge fang for 20m to top trad belay. Full trad rack to #2 SLCD required.

Corner left of "The Radgel" past BR to falkes to "Norton Is For Nancy's

Wildly overhanging corner right of the silver screen. Rarely repeated. Might need a new bolt.

On rear side of Wall of Fame

Climbs the rib line up, then right and up to two good holds just before the diagonal slash.

Ingvar has confirmed the grade. Up the wall left of Kava Boy. Bouldery start from block leads to easier, but sustained moves, not overly bolted, but, safe. Rap anchor on ledge.

A solid route in an excellent position on great rock.

1. 25m Up vertical crack in wall about 15m L of the Cold War. Balance up past BR and up to a flake. Pull up L on to ledge. Climb overhanging wall just R of orange streak (crux) to a belay stance.

2. 25m Follow crack-line up shallow concave wall (prominent feature). At the top, move R and up to jugs.

A great climb but without the purity of 'The Iron Curtain' (even though it shares much of the best climbing).

1. 25m (23) 1. 25m (23) As for 'The Iron Curtain'.

2. 30m (24) Continue up shallow corner (crux) to gain diagonal above. Follow this left through overlap with difficulty and up to finish at top of cliff. Gear as for 'Iron Curtain'

A brilliant and well-protected climb.

Start: Start as for 'The Cold War'.

1. 25m (23) Climb corner, then step left onto wall and directly above rock 'fin' to gain crack. Climb this to belay at horizontal break.

2. 27m (24) Continue up shallow corner (crux) and exit onto wall above. Step right into corner system and follow this up. Beneath the overlap avoid pulling on the loose block; you'll need it to stand on! Gear: Wires, small and medium cams up to 1 camalot. (Note: This took around 5 months of solid attempts to bag the 1st ascent. A very dedicated leader rightly got his glorious prize after much hard work). DBB/Rings

Climb the initial wall of 'Synthetic Venetian'. At the crack traverse left to the base of the prominent crackline right of 'The Iron Curtain'. Before the crack closes make a rising leftwards traverse (keeping below some loose rock) and then continue straight up slab (crux) and over roof passing 4 bolts to a rap station.

Start: Start as for 'Synthetic Venetian'.

Unknown location.

Sustained laybacks on perfect finger locks and edges. Take medium wires and cams. Starts at hanging crack 20m downhill from Mad Cow.

Up Verterbrae to 4th bolt then step delicatly right onto arete and around onto face (FH). Desperate move up small edges to good finger lock finish. DRB lower-off.

Start as for 1st bolt of Spanish Sahara. Up right passing bolt to vague arete, up arete passing another bolt to Spanish Sahara double ring anchor.

Zig zagging seam on orange bulging north face about 10m right of 'Static Ticking Rampage'. The last great line of Red Rocks? Five years in the making after an aborted bolting attempt by Nick and Neil in 2001. Stickclip then batman up to first UB (or attempt the V10+ direct start!) Rightwards along very sloping rail then blast straight up bugling seam above. 6 UBs and double ring lower-off.

A tricky crux on sensational turtle shell rock. The route begins at the left hand end of the Trench. Follow three FH to a chain anchor. A #2 Rock will protect the start, or stick-clip the first bolt.

Vertical slabbing. Follow the thin line up a great closed seam past 3 RB to DBB.

Left-hand bolted line. Up small scoop past 2 FH. When it ends, trend desperately up and left to 3rd FH, then slightly left before blasting straight up unlikely wall past 4th FH to anchors.

1. 15m (23) Boulder up and left into corner and go up.

2. 20m (24) Up the corner (#4 cam). At the ledge move left onto face and up (to avoid the slot)

Up the slab, moving left into right-facing corner. Up corner, exiting left onto another slab which leads to a diagonal flake. Right along the flake to the base of two parallel cracks which are followed to a large ledge. Up the headwall, slightly rightwards, on pockets.

Start: Start 10 metres right of "Sporting Chance"

From the break, make a big move up to the diagonal, then up.

Slab traverse over the 6m drop left of Slab Monster.

Good little play thing. Cherry Tree to the big horizontal. Will be a good extension up the seam between cherry tree and the 22 route.

Steeply overhanging crack on right side of wall. Finish straight up headwall.

Start just right of caves in gallery chasm. 4 U-bolts to lower off.

Another fun jug-haul. Has a tricky section in the middle, but the real crux is past the last bolt, which is the same finish as 'Chain of Fools'.

Start 5 metres right of black streak.

Off block, up, 3 bolts, fixed wire to anchors above horizontal break. Third bolt used for aid. Rap off.

The main line on Rain Wall. Start by roping up for an exposed ledge system descending left of Broken English;

1. 25m Traverse down left along break to hanging belay where line sweeps upward.

2. 25m (24 M1) Left along the line (2 wires for aid near start)

3. 30m Up line to top.

Airy and sustained climbing in magnificent situations. Start by following ledges under steep walls around left from The Gallery.

1) 25m (24) Hand traverse around hanging arete. Up cracks, BR, Left into face from ledge to exposed hanging belay from bolts.

2) 35m (22) Diagonal cracks to lip of wall below. Up scary line.

Desperate start. Step right, BR, from block in Plain English. Up wall, 2 bolts.

Wild climbing high on the stacked corners just right of 'Close At Hand'. The slightly conrived start robs the climb of a second star.

Start 2 metres right of 'Close At Hand'.

Up the first corner, moving slightly left at its apex to horizontal break. Traverse right to the next corner then straight up the 3 stacked corners to huge ledge.

Careful on the runout finish.

Start in the left of the main cave, a few metres left of Nomads.

5 bolts to finish in the middle of nowhere. Lower off the last or back clean it. The finish is fairly juggy but you really wouldn't want to blow the last clip.

The best "moderate" route here. Nomads to the large matching hueco, watch out for the run out.

Short but action-packed crimpiness.

Start: Start 5m R of 'Reckless Mind'.

Start on the terrace, at left side of wall.

Intricate bridging in sustained diagonal corner to a steep exit.

Taipan style! Starts 5m left of Popeyed at scoopy overhung wall. Technical climbing up scoop past three FHs leads to jugs and cave rest. Blast up reachy wall above past last FH and head left to chain.

A very height dependent grade and a killer line right up the centre of the main wall. Starts up ringbolts just right of terror of sea.

Bouldery start, sustained crimpy middle. Lotsa bolts! Starts about 2m right of 'Wellington Wimpy'.

The massive boulder opposite the Tower now has 3 bolts up an tricky array of slab moves to reach horizontal. Until someone places another bolt, take a couple of large nuts and/or a medium sized cam to protect the easier upper section. Lower-off.

Down and right of the Possum Rocks cave, there is a great 4-5m high pocketed boulder. This is the left line.

Located on north facing main wall with a large scooped base. Malcolm forgot his harness and had to belay Neil's dogging efforts with a sling around his waist! Three FHs up right leading steep scoops to gain broken crackline. Up this with fiddly trad pro to committing top out up grey wall.

Two FHs then rightwards diagonal fingercrack. Bolted by Kent in the pouring rain using a manky sling as a harness. Hangers were recycled from one of Brookies past glories at Camels Hump. Route was abandoned to the elements for three years and finally climbed by Neil.

So named because the FA had to get water by swimming out into a billabong and got mighty muddy! Palmistry at its best. Blank corner and right facing layback flake opposite main section of Peasant Wall. Stem up to short crack opening (#1 SLCD) then boldly up with nigh all handholds to FH. Lunge out rightwards with nigh all footholds to thank-god layback flake. Up this easily to ledge and lower-off anchor.

Follows the obvious rib to a tricky finish.

The second pitch has runout hard climbing. Objective danger in the form of a giant spider may be encountered on the final pitch.

Start: Start at the hand-crack 4 metres left of Passport To Insanity.

1. 35m (24) Overhanging hand-crack then the thinner crack to a stance at the bottom of a right-leading flake-line.

2. 35m (23) 'Layback' up the flake and then climb diagonally left across the bulging wall to a ledge on the arete. Step left around the arete and then go up the wall above to the second belay of Passport To Insanity.

3. 30m (20) Go diagonally left to a thin crack. Climb this and then move horizontally left to a blocky ledge. Finish strsight up the wall to the top.

Sustained with sinker wires. Start behind clump of callitris 5m right of cleft seperating right and left walls. Bouldery start past FH to gain crack proper. Up on good finger locks to horizontal break.Traverse right 3m then up over bulges.

Great climbing on excellent rock. Starts 3m right of blunt arête. Boulder start to gain crack (protected with a good, shallow wire at full stretch). Bomber gear and sustained climbing to below roof. Committing pull past bulge via crimps in the black streak to good #2 camalot placement.

Impressive roof climb in a truly spectacular setting.

Start from back of block (FH) at end of pinnacle.

Up corner to ledge. Step R then up bulges to rest. Step up to FH then monkey R on unexpected buckets. Turn the roof at scoop. Swing R to finish up white water wash then slightly L to RB lower off (note: near 50m lower off to top of pinnacle - tie rope end to belay FH).

Start 5m right of Smokin' Guns. Up cruxy wall past five FHs to rings.

Probably needs some bolts. Has only been top-roped. Wall right of Free To Good Home, keeping close to right arete.

Sustained and technical climbing on Arapiles type rock. Starts 3m left of Iron Lady.

Climb the creases past a FH to the DBB. Take small and medium wires and small cams.

Short bouldery section past RB.

Leftmost thin diagonal, 6 metres left of Give Me AIDS

A bouldery link-up of The Generator Route * 22 and The Extension Lead * 18. Climb The Generator Route and continue straight up the orange bulge past 2 FHs to join The Extension Lead at its (now) second FH on the arête. 8 FHs in total. (DRB anchor added as of March 2024 - ignore the fixed hanger and sheath, to be removed soon)