Routes in Grampians for selected grade

Same start as previous problem but head right through the twin pockets then up through twin edges and top out.

Starts right of 'Inspector Gadget'. Sharp pocket (LH) to slopey edge, then pocket to jug. 2016 guidebook grade

Sit start with the a left edge and right hand pocket and head straight through the roof via a slopey rail followed by a big move to a deep pocket. Make another big move to the good edge on the lip, then directly up for the jugs.

A variation within the Butthole Cave. Starts just left of 'Butthole Surfer', then heads directly out through the roof in the direction of the No Sex With Mushrooms boulder.

This problem is located on a seperate boulder behind the Da Lai Lahmung area. It takes the major line from a sit start then through the roof.

A punchy start (sandbag?) leads to a sustained finish through and around the roof. Stick clip the first bolt, then four more to the anchors.

3rd bolted line from the left: RB then FH then RBs the rest of the way.

Weaves around black streak on far right side of main wall. Bouldery start up slopers and slots to easier ground. At halfway head slightly right to rest stance then up past RB and crux dyno. Finish up steep jugs. Five RBs and DRB lower-off.

Gently overhanging with great moves on pockets then a steep finish via a big scoop.

Start as for Jugged on triangular hold and head right on slopers and crimps to finish as for Jugged.

SS with pockets on right side of small but deep cave. Technically up and left via seam and pockets in face to top out .

Sit start with pockets on the right hand side of the low but deep cave. Move up to holds in the seam and left to pockets around the bulge and finish p the face.

SS on slope edges under nose. Back through roof via slot and knob pinch to top out.

Starts at tree against cliff. Bridge up tree till you can reach break above slopy ledge. Now power your way to the top.

Links the fantastic wall of The Vanishing Kingdom into Deborah Triangle's corner at a much more reasonable and sustained grade. Use long sling on the bolt at the bulge.

An impressive line, even more so now that is free.

Start: It\\\\'s the huge orange corner 18m right of 'Harbinger'.

1. 18m (18) Follow the weakness to the foot of a small overhang.

2. 27m (24) Climb the crack (originally aid) until to the roof and traverse left to a ledge.

3. 20m (-) Climb the short crack, move left into the major line, up to belay below a steep orange corner

4. 14m (-) Traverse left, then up to finish left of the overhangs.

Good climbing but serious.

Start: Start on dark left arête of grey/black wall in decent gully. Up

Warm up your fingers before tackling this feisty route. A soft tick if you can crimp. Begin at slab below very shallow left leaning corner about 4m right of 'Pains Ford'. Crimpy past three ring bolts to juggy shelf. Easier wall above past another four rings to lower-off. On the second ascent Rich managed to snap off three key crux holds, upping the route from 23 to 24.

Start 3m R of The Hot Zone, just L of Melting Moments. Up the edges and over the overlap almost in THZ, then work R till you get your R hand in the top flake of MM, then L on under clings and through the roof to join THZ for its last 3 bolts.

4m R of MM, up the pockets to a hard move and little jump into the big pocket. A few more moves get you the head wall.

Good thin face. The first bolt is quite high... in fact it's out of reach even with some brands of stick clip! If soloing up to the first bolt on brittle rock doesn't sound appealing, things can be kept much more sane with a small cam (eg 0.4 camalot).

Very low sit-start then traverse left - then back right to finish on the good jug. The direct straight up from the pockets (dyno) is V4/5.

Exhilarating climbing up the middle of the wall. Not trivial to find the route and gear on the traverse. Access via the start of CC (FH), traverse across wall to FH, then up short crack to hard moves R past FH, and awesome final headwall. Gear to size 2, camalot.

Looks like a sensational overhanging headwall; but has a very difficult crux move. Start as for Cool Intentions in the major chasm just left of Agent of Cool.

1. 22, Traverse wide crack (large cams) and awkwardly around arete to a hanging DBB in corner (brackets required).

2. 24+, From DBB, up overhanging wall past 2 FH, and a fixed sling (Tat replaced, bolts look ok?). New rap ring for this climb (shared with MD).

As soon as you are out of the scoop and onto the face look up. 2 FH take you through the lovely rippling grey wall above. Finish at the ledge, with another chain/ring combo (50m rope is long enough to lower off).

Start: Start as for 'Pressure Drop'.

Start on the large sidepull, move left, then up to finish up Probably Dave.

Stand start on side pull in middle of face, up to crimp, then move right to the fin, to finish up Definitely.

Sit start right of the arete, then move left to finish high on the arete.

Sit start on the jugs on the arete.

Starting from 'Sick Nutter' traverse left through the slopers to 'Paranoiac Critical Town' then top out.

Stand-start with high left crimp and low right crimp. Pull on, slap good pocket and punch to better holds on the lip before traversing right.

Sit-start as for "__" but traverse rightward on jugs and crimps to the amazing right hand pinch. From here, head slightly up and rightward to finish on more jugs.

An excellent eliminate of the jugs is possible - (like Tim Tam Traverse but harder), but still a project.

Project no. 43

A selection of the various flowers, plus some nice poses of its own.

Start on top of the big boulder perched on the ledge between Atomic Tadpole and Tokyo Rose (but it's a better more sustained pitch if you start up UG). Trend R up the easy slab (adequate pro found on the R). Cross Tokyo Rose, then join Ukrainian Geranium for 8m over bulges to the start of the upper slab. Now traverse 3m R to FH in major grey streak, then up to break. Move R to join Sordid Orchids Direct past it's final 2 FHs, to rap anchor (28m). Full set of cams and wires, and several long draws (or double ropes).

For almost 25 years this route has largely been neglected due to a reputation for having a runout crux. In reality, it can be completely sewed up if you have plenty of micro-wires and a blue alien, and the endurance to hang around and fiddle them in. Plus the climbing is simply immaculate and, even despite the aid bolt, this must be a strong contender for the best 24 in the Grampians.

Start as for Dance of Life. Aid on the bolts and jug R to the arete as for Dance of Life. From there climb straight up the grey faint groove with fantastic sustained moves all the way to the horizontal breaks, then directly up the excellent blunt arete.

Outstanding and unlikely climbing on amazing rock, with great pro and a bouldery finish.

Start just R of Dinosaurs Don't Dyno, on the R end of the elevated ledge. But belay at ground level to reduce rope drag and improve communication. Delicately sidle R and slightly up along the small ledge/slab, until it terminates in a hanging 'horn' of rock. A tricky reach off the horn gains a RB and BR. Aid on these to gain the flake, then monkey R to the arete. Trend R and up the gorgeous orange scoops to large break (optional belay). Continue up flakes to crimpy finish (BR). Full rack, extenders and 2 bolt plates.

Climb 7th Pillar LHV almost to end of rightwards traverse and go up scoopy line past 2 bolts to bolted anchor.

Some fantastic slabbing in the prime central part of Taipan. Hard for 24. Start at the first belay of Lawrence of Arabia, which is most conveniently accessed by jugging 8m up the FB or Serpentine fixed ropes, if they're there. From the R end of the roof-like section of the horizontal, head up on pockets (thread, #3-4 cam). Continue slabbing past 4 hangerless bolts (rebolted 2011) to ledge below main roof. Traverse 5m R (small-med cams) to the first belay of Serpentine. Rap off (20m).

Wanders around like crazy in order to follow the 'weaknesses', but still worthwhile. Nearly all the bolts are in poor condition - please contribute to rebolting. You also need a light trad rack. Start at ground level at the prominent left-leading flake that is located towards the right end of the Spurt Wall bouldering traverse, directly below Venom.

1. 25m (23) Average. Climb the flake to gain a ledge, then move off its left end past a FH (rebolted 2011) then up face and right along ledge to DRB (placed ~2005, 14m rap).

2. 25m (24) Move up and right past FH to a horizontal break. Traverse right (med. cam) and up past FH to another horizontal (cams). Right again beneath FH in steep territory (incredibly awkward to clip from below, incredibly bold to clip from above), then make a hand-traverse back left just above FH, and onto ledge with DFH (25m rap possible).

3. 15m (24) Step R, up to roof, then L to FH. Dangle out R through overhangs past 2nd FH, ignore 3rd FH, and trend R to a delicate last move onto the terrace and DFH (35m rap). A harder alternative (25) is to head straight up past the 3rd FH (see 62a on topo).

4. 15m (23) Pull up to diagonal ramp and follow it up L to spike/jug on arete. Up steep face, moving L to faint groove (wire), to rap anchor back over the clifftop. The 50m rap straight to the deck is not recommended due to rope drag. Instead, lower back to the 3rd belay, then rap 35m off Rattlesnake Shake's DRB.

Fantastic thought provoking sloper climbing with an exciting finish. Very popular, despite being very solid for the grade. Once had a reputation for silly bolting - but has since been fixed by SCV.

Start as for 'Railroad' then finish as for 'Cinema Show'.

Sit start with the good slots just right of 'Railroad' and make a big move (crux) up to the good holds in the roof. Finish as for the mantle on 'Railroad'. Punchy!

Start as for 'Slot Machine' and traverse right into 'Cinema Show'. Finish up this.

The line left of 'Kamikaze'. Could be the flakeline ending nowhere in particular.

A variation of the previous problem, but better. Starting off the sloper above the shelf (right of previous problem), make a move left to the good pocket, then cross to the prominent 2-finger pocket and span out left into 'I Must Have Been the Thief'. Finish as for this.

Line just right of 'Anal Head'.

Dangerous. Probably even more committing than 'Kamikaze'. Start off the shelf and reach up for a prominent 'spike' jug, then climb directly out to the deep 3-finger pocket. Turn 90 degrees and place your feet on the holds of the next problem, and make a most worrying couple of moves for the big 'flake' jug out on the lip. 15 spotters and a blow up bouncy castle useful...or just pre-order the ambulance.

Start off rock on slopey jug, head up and right through committing moves between jugs.

24 (!!)

Start: L of 'Natural Wastage'

If you have done the other two 24s then why not finish yourself of with this one! More of the same thin face climbing. Four bolts finish at same anchors of Act of War.

Excellent thin face climbing up the orange streak left of Midnight's Children. Four ring bolts to anchor.

Beautiful thin, overhanging, grey face. There should be 50 metres of it. The first move is a nice boulder problem. Anchor is just 2 fixed hangers.

Highball (6 metres) slightly overhung face route. Crux is the first move (big) but a tricky finish awaits.

A very long traverse starting from the big flake then motoring right along the horizontal weakness - finishing up 'John Deere'

Sit start on the same holds as Caterpillar. Move left to a crimp and an edge before making a big move to the break.

Starts as for 'Karl' - but keeps traversing right - to a big move for a lone crimp up and right - then the top. Beware of the thin lip holds!

Boulder problem rounded arete past 2 rings leads to easy naturally protected slab. Reachy crux.

Start: 'Arete' 3m right of 'Bass Rush'.

A #4 Camalot is handy in the break (but you will probably get so pumped placing it that it's better to keep going to the bolt in the roof...). With a 60cm sling on each of the first two bolts there are no issues with rope drag.

Starts on the RH face (sit) - left of the 'Sausage' crack weakness.

Start: Sit-start left of the 'Cave Club' cave.

Nice style. If only Captain Bligh had had a #4 cam! Desperate crimpy start, juggy wall then a technical grit boulder problem finish just when you thinks it is all over.

Start: Start from a flake where the buttress abuts the main face. Pop some gear in crevice at start (or use stick to clip bolt). Four RB's, #3 or 4 cam. Rebolted 2017.

Cast away! A superb sustained wall. Start at base of ramp just right of 'Abandon Ship'(can also be started direct via RB 4m R of OSB as for TOMW). Move R up easy ramp (a range of gear available eg 0.75 camalot) to first RB. Delicately past RB to break (0.4 camalot or wire) and up to RB. Continue strenuously leftwards past two more RBs and an elegant mono-doigt at the top. Rebolted 2017.

Hard start past FH 3m right of Spice Islands. Up past small wires and cams to second FH, clip FH out to the right on Anchors Away before moving left and up past final FH.

The steep line on orange rock.

Start: Start 20m L of W.

As for GR but go straight up from pockets.

Doesn't see much action.

Start: Start as for 'Milupa'.

A thin slabby face that leads to a novel caving expedition.

Start: Start just L of 'Idiot Wind'.

A classic concept around the right edge of, and then above, the great arch.

Start: Start below the centre of the arch.

3 bolts.

Climb the right side of the slab to the ramp, then up the face past 3 bolts.

Start: Start a few metres left of 'Snow White'.

The face with a bolt, traverse L past a nut to the arete. The obvious direct is 25.

Start: Start 3m L of 'Reckless'.

Hard thin face moves past BRs onto sloping bulge

Start as for Flying Blind. Either stick clip the high 1st RB or place a small cam or nut in FB. Up FB for a few moves before a move L up onto the face and vague arete. Up this and make a spectacular move over the roof on jugs to the lower off.

Standing start. Up wall on side pulls and layaways to a pinch at 5m, then 'hero' jugs to the top. Fun! Spooky.

Sit start. Make the sign, then up rightwards to flake/pinch. Up. Fun!

Sit start, then up side pulls/undercling to crimp to high jug. Continue up right with a big reach or pike left. Great fun!

Short and sharp. The overhanging orange wall with three FHs.

The good fight.

Start: Start 10m right of 'Chinese Water Torture' at the incipient corner.

Excellent, varied climbing up the dominant line on the proudest section of this wonderful wall. The spectacular and exposed finish is the icing on the cake. Take a reasonably full trad rack. Climb the first 6m as for 'Crank Start' to the obvious horizontal break. Move a metre right into the line and follow this up to surmount the rightward-leaning pillar to a seat beneath the final headwall. Move past a fixed hanger and around the little roof, then clip the next fixed hanger and make some spectacular moves up and right around the lip of the summit roof.

Old school trad wall climbing. Some of the rock is a bit fragile in places.

Start as for Minute Man, then traverse the face to link up with Silent Observer on the arête and follow for the top out on slab. Not official name, please let us know if you FA'd it and would like naming rights

Stand start from the caved-in part of boulder with your body pushing towards the rock.

Start as for Riding Shotgun and head straight up arete using side pull/underclings then pull onto slab. Done by many this way thinking they were on Riding Shotgun.

Here's some footage of how to do the RH Variant (if you look at the text you'll see they thought they were doing Riding Shotgun V6, whoops! It's easy to make this mistake!).

Francesco

Christopher

Start on the right arete and climb up left on edges to top out over the peak.