Routes in Grampians for selected grade

Start on the low end of the horizontal flake at the far right of the wall. Climb the rail up to a tricky mantle.

An area classic up the middle of the slab (unfortunately also a bit of an eliminate). Stand start with terrible smears and crimps and move up to the vague slopey rails (the good holds out right are off) and top out. Delicate, technical, and fun.

Sit start under the prow with low opposing holds. Slap up on opposing holds then reach up to good holds. Top out left or right over the nose. Solid at the grade but really fun!

Sit start on the low flake and climb straight up to top out. Several ways to work on your hands. Well featured problem and you'll wish it kept going.

Left side of the wall shared with Eugene flakeline. Sit start with good incut and adjacent rounded sidepull. Dyno 4'2" to sharp crimper then top out.

Start as for French Toast but head diagonally right using the poor pocket to gain big juggy ledge. Finish up Sydney Highrise. Climbing around the pocket (i.e., traversing right directly into Sydney Highrise) is off line.

Sit start with a LH undercling and RH block sidepull. Slap to a sloper then head up the face to top out.

Start at good holds on the lip of the roof and make big moves to the horizontal seam and punch to the top.

Sit start on the blocky horizontal at the edge of the roof. Move up on good holds and veer left on good edges on the face and top out 1-2m right of As the Crow Flies.

Start as for Arm and a Leg and follow the diagonal weakness up right to jugs on the nose. Make hard moves up right to a thin incut edge and higher pocket and top out. Committing!

Climb Golden Oldie to the jugs on the arete and keep traversing right on good holds to a juggier, although pumpier, finish. Also quite a committing finish.

Sit-start

Nigh jugs exist and surprisingly sustained.

Start: Starts 6m left of 'Guernica', and 2m left of offwidth.

Sandy wide crack connects into hard sport route.

Start: Starts 2m right of 'Slippety Slope'.

Totally desperate.

Start: Instead of bailing off to the left, continue up the very thin face past a few more BR's. Unrepeated?

The line on 'Clicke Wall' where it meets the chimney with the 'Guernica' block. Probably about 24 and needs a glue-in bolt or two at the crux.

Sit start at the base of the leaning arete. Mantle into the scoop and climb straight up on slopers and edges.

A left to right traverse.

Takes the left-trending weakness of pockets from a sit-start - on the rightside of the big horizontal. Once the big horizontal is gained, keep traversing all the way left to finish at the pocket (the finish of 'Spanking the Monkeybars')

Start as for Rebel Without a Corset. Pull around the crux roof of RWaC. Instead of scuttling up the path of least resistance diagonally right as for RWaC, continue up the line directly until able to move up left past a bolt to finish up the left side of the prow. Double rings.

Pulls around the left side of the RWaC roof (1m left of RWaC) and climbs up the left-hand crack past a bolt, then past another (as for Rebel Yelp).

Awesomely pumpy fun thugging. Start 8m left of 'Fading Fast'. Stick clip recommended. Diagonally R on shattered rock to FH, then steeply past UB to join major cliff-splitting R-wards diagonal. Pump 15m up R along this past 2nd UB, across Fading Fast & Contra, and 5m further to FH. Now straight up to lower-off (60m rope essential). Full set of cams incl. #4 camalot, plus medium wires. The original piker's version (Will Monks, Neil Monteith, 21/8/05) finished as for FF, & you can also pike by lowering off SaL's anchor.

A steep climb up the short but deceptively overhanging wall just left of where the track hits the cliff and turns right. Carrigan led this route onsight the day after his one-point ascent of the Seventh Pillar.

Start: Marked by small white square.

Packs it in for a short route and is also reminiscent of technical gritstone. Would get a few more stars if it wasn't an overgrown boulder.

Start: Starts 2m right of 'Moral Vandal' at right edge of block. Marked.

Right variant to 'Sedition'. Much easier than the former route.

The big overhanging nose, starting on the left and traversing right to a mantle topout.

A funny little thing residing behind the 'Font Mantle' Block. Get in there somehow and traverse leftwards across the face to finish up the slight crack.

Start right in the back of the cave and head directly out to the lip, and a very slopey mantle topout. Desperate! Good training for 'Circus Jerkus'...

Short, bolted and easy for the grade. Should be more popular! Originally climbed on trad it was then subsequently retro-bolted by Peter & Andrew Stevens one year later.

Start: The short overhanging wall opposite 'Red Wall'.

Same start as for 'Fallen Cow' - but lock up into good diagonal 'grooves' before heading right around the nose.

A direct line starting with a sit/crouch start halfway out along the Fallen Cow traverseline, then climbing through this to join the finish of 'Carlton' Coldie.

NOT the 'Nowra' classic!

Start: Start 4m right of Fretlin.

A problem located in the depths of the cave (walk in just right of Railcross)

Starts about 3metres left of 'Hot Henry' on the right hand side of big incut ledge. Sit start with a left flat top hold and a right undercling, top out straight up via the 2 crimps.

Starts the same as 'Gobby and the CrayJ'. Traverse right through some smallish holds then topping out using some decent holds in the seam.

Sit-start at the base of the black streak matching on a big sloper. A dynamic move leads to the good horizontal, then a long RH lock move and onwards up the crimpy face. Highball and a tad committing above a very bad landing, but absolutely classic. Originally given V6 by coming in from the right using a LH gaston (crux) but most people ignore this due to the proximity of the ground (it's hard to stay off it!)

Sit start for Two Sleeps and climb the right side of the cave to an easier exit out right of the roof.

RH right-trending crack weakness. Starts on the low jugs and climbs up the weakness to a crux move reaching up for a gaston pocket. Was massively overgraded at V5 for a long time.

Sit start on obvious edge behind old tree. Make a huge move rightt then traverse sloped ledge and head up obvious weakness.

Start at bottom of first black streak on jugs, climb up through crimps to finish on good holds

Pretty much as the name suggests.

Located on the main cliff opposite the Orca boulder. This problem finishes at a break/pockets at a 'judgemental' height.

Takes a line on the face right of the 'Wet With Excitement' arete.

Very high slab tucked away below and left of the Orca boulder

He's good at climbing them, but hopeless at naming them! The finger crack with a bulge down low on the far left end of Upper Cut Lunch Walls to anchor.

Good training for 'Taipan'. One of the bolts pulled out after Neil had dogged his way up this! It has since been replaced. Central rib feature with small rooflet down low about 5m left of 'The Big Payback'.

Links start of Tender Hooks into finish of Smörgåsbord. Offers sustained pumpy pleasure on immaculate orange rock.

Expect some big whips! A mystery single rusty bolt has been on this route for many years but remained un-claimed. Neil then climbed it all on trad graded it 22 and then attempted a repeat a week later with bolts and couldn't do the moves! It is now a sport route with an exciting finish. Starts about 2m right of Ooh Ooh Ahh Ahh at slab. Boulder up to first bolt, pump through horizontals then undercling up to shallow pockets and right facing flake. Now, launch for the top ledge! 4 UBs and lower-off. Last bolt is a desperate clip if you are short, best to climb Dry Spell and pre-place draws.

Good mixed climbing. Starts 7m right of 'Us Esoterics' and 2m right of the arete (Wheels of Steel). The best spot for the belayer is on the ledge / block a few metres below. Boulder start up tiny corner (FH) to thin crux crack (FH). Wander up slabby jugs to blank bulge (FH) and onwards up steep juggy wall. Rap anchor. Full rack required including small wires.

WATCH OUT FOR LEDGE FALL POTENTIAL! Up the wall through orange scoops to ledge. A long sling may help for bolt in cave otherwise rope drag may be an issue.

Less sustained but cruxier than 'By Jovi'. Bolted route starting in front of small pine tree. Don't fall off between 2nd and 3rd - you will hit the boulder. Needs extra bolt !!

The central orange streak. Great moves. Was once a rap-in-climb-out affair, but it is now equipped to be started from ground level.

Can be approached from above via rap chains which are 30m north of 'Irritant Pollens' and below large boulder with tiny cave on south side.

The other best route on this cliff. Up CHH to bolt three, then traverse left across break and follow line of UB's up the increasingly difficult wall to runout finish. Double UB lower-off on ledge way up to the left.

Shares a couple of moves with TI

A mega left to right link-up of the entire Pocketed Wall starting from Terminal Insomnia and finishing up Sisters of Mercy.

A worthwhile link-up with a few metres of new climbing. Start as for Cosmic Psycho.

Fantastic sustained climbing up the centre of the Pocketed Wall. The finish seeps after a good rainfall, but not as badly as Motley Crue or Terminal Insomnia. Start 3m left of Sisters Of Mercy. There's a single ring for your belayer to tie into (plus a carrot if you brought a bolt plate). Rebolted 2023

One of the best mid grade sport routes in the 'Grampians'. Consistently steep, with amazing pockets and cracks.

Start up the overhanging corner on the right side of the crag, about 2m right of 'The Dope Man'. This is also the start for several other routes that split off to the right.

Just what VD Land needs - another grade 24!

Start: Start as for 'Body Count'.

A bit sharp and strange in places and wanders around a bit. Quite good though, and rather steep!

Start: Start as for 'Body Count'.

Bouldery and powerful climbing up the black streak high up on right side of amphitheatre (above 'The Brian Jonestown Massacre'). Seeps badly after rain.

To get to the start scramble with care onto ledge at the base from the right to belay at single rusty BR.

Awesome looking thin hand crack through 4m horizontal roof above viewing platform directly across from De La Soul. Start sitting on back ledge. Easy lipped jugs to good jam then harder move to lip. Up easily. Could be a bit easier for those with gun crack technique. Either way great line and fun climbing.

On next tier down from the very obvious VD Roof Crack. Start back in cave on slopers with obvious foot pocket. Core intensive moves to lip then more easily up left via jugs.

The line of FHs to the left of ‘Don’t cheat on me’. Start with obvious pockets and small edges to good rest. Big move over bulge, then up and left to glue-reinforced hold. Big moves on good holds through overhang to anchor.

Great climbing up the obvious bolted layback line on N facing prow at the far RH end, and above the Eastern Walls. DBB on the wall at the top is NOT the top of the climb (23 to this point). Clip anchor, then make committing moves R to hanging rib, and another bolt to the top. Backclimb to anchor. NB: Bolts are likely a retrobolt of the original, which was grade 25 on trad gear, finishing up flake at the top.

Slinky face climbing also dealing with the best moves on Gotham City. A great linkup.

Start: Start as for 'Boy Wonder'

A coupla tricky moves. Sorta average but probably worth investing a bolt in, for anyone so inclined. Start 3m L of CG then join it at half height.

Starts 3m right of 'Doctor Manhattan'

Nice looking wall with three bolts and sling anchor (which will inevitably need replacing). The start of this route has shed many holds, and the first two carrots have been overdriven such that getting a bolt plate onto them is a real crux.