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The Shady Side
A scattering of short dolerite crags located below and above the Tourist Track between the First Basin and Kings Bridge, on the northern side of the river. |
The Trap Area
Most climbs are equipped with their own DBB, which is the preferred method of descent to avoid raining terror down on to the tourist track. If scrambling around, please take extra care to avoid kicking down loose rock and other debris. Climbing straight off the Tourist Track should be looked at as a privilege and not a right. Access could very easily be taken away. Please be good custodians for our sport by leaving enough space for walkers when belaying, and if bouldering - have a spotter manage your mats &/or keep them well off the main path. Preferably brush your holds of chalk once finished to maintain natural aesthetics, and for other climbers who follow. |
The Trap Area |
23
★ Dr. Deviant
Upstream pinnacle with horizontal break, above the walkway with a line of U's on the right arete. 23 for climbers 6 foot and up ramps up significantly if shorter |
17
Moss Groove
Vegetated easy angled jam crack on LHS |
17
Nymphogranuloma
Hand crack directly beside the track. Belay from pillars above the hole (#1, #2 cams). The large block seems solid enough. DBB |
22
★ The Trap
Face climb R of the hand crack. Can belay on pillars above hole (#1 or #2 cams for crack), or before jumping fence (please don’t block the path). DBB |
20
★★ The Onanist
The obvious clean offwidth on the buttress set back slightly from the track. Good climbing which actually doesn't require too much wide crack technique. DBB |
Prince of Darkness Area
Most climbs are equipped with their own DBB, which is the preferred method of descent to avoid raining terror down on to the tourist track. If scrambling around, please take extra care to avoid kicking down loose rock and other debris. Climbing straight off the Tourist Track should be looked at as a privilege and not a right. Access could very easily be taken away. Please be good custodians for our sport by leaving enough space for walkers when belaying, and if bouldering - have a spotter manage your mats &/or keep them well off the main path. Preferably brush your holds of chalk once finished to maintain natural aesthetics, and for other climbers who follow. |
Prince of Darkness Area |
24
★ King of Pain
Most climbs are equipped with their own DBB, which is the preferred method of descent to avoid raining terror down on to the tourist track. If scrambling around, please take extra care to avoid kicking down loose rock and other debris. Climbing straight off the Tourist Track should be looked at as a privilege and not a right. Access could very easily be taken away. Please be good custodians for our sport by leaving enough space for walkers when belaying, and if bouldering - have a spotter manage your mats &/or keep them well off the main path. Preferably brush your holds of chalk once finished to maintain natural aesthetics, and for other climbers who follow. |
21
★ Prince Of Darkness
Most climbs are equipped with their own DBB, which is the preferred method of descent to avoid raining terror down on to the tourist track. If scrambling around, please take extra care to avoid kicking down loose rock and other debris. Climbing straight off the Tourist Track should be looked at as a privilege and not a right. Access could very easily be taken away. Please be good custodians for our sport by leaving enough space for walkers when belaying, and if bouldering - have a spotter manage your mats &/or keep them well off the main path. Preferably brush your holds of chalk once finished to maintain natural aesthetics, and for other climbers who follow. |
20
★★ Queen of Salsa
Most climbs are equipped with their own DBB, which is the preferred method of descent to avoid raining terror down on to the tourist track. If scrambling around, please take extra care to avoid kicking down loose rock and other debris. Climbing straight off the Tourist Track should be looked at as a privilege and not a right. Access could very easily be taken away. Please be good custodians for our sport by leaving enough space for walkers when belaying, and if bouldering - have a spotter manage your mats &/or keep them well off the main path. Preferably brush your holds of chalk once finished to maintain natural aesthetics, and for other climbers who follow. |
21
★★ Vast Deferens
The best pure bridging corner in the lower gorge. 30m downstream of POD climbs an easy corner to a large belay ledge. Technical stemming protected by good RPs to a DBB. |
21
★★ Johnny The Rock Meets Gillian The Badger
A beautiful piece of rock, starts down right in the chimney to thin crack. Pull through roof via spike and begin traversing left via hand crack. DBB high on face around left arete. |
Dammit Area
Most climbs are equipped with their own DBB, which is the preferred method of descent to avoid raining terror down on to the tourist track. If scrambling around, please take extra care to avoid kicking down loose rock and other debris. Climbing straight off the Tourist Track should be looked at as a privilege and not a right. Access could very easily be taken away. Please be good custodians for our sport by leaving enough space for walkers when belaying, and if bouldering - have a spotter manage your mats &/or keep them well off the main path. Preferably brush your holds of chalk once finished to maintain natural aesthetics, and for other climbers who follow. |
Dammit Area |
Upper Disgorge
Access to the top of the cliff: park on the corner of South Esk Rd and Bain terrace. Walk up the fire trail, which takes a left turn. Follow the trail for about 500m, until you see a pipeline to your right, pointing downhill. There will be a cairn to the left. Go downhill and follow the cairned path to the top of the cliff. Use the tree to rap/scramble down to the DBB. |
25
★★★ Dammit
One of the best in the gorge. An incipient crack on the left offers good protection. |
23
Disgorge
Powerful and technical line to the right |
Lower Disgorge
Directly and steeply downhill from the previous climbs |
18
Gorble
Hand crack left of chimney groove |
22
The One That Got Away
A short finger crack, not visible from the walkway, on the right of the buttress downhill from the main Disgorge cliff, opening up at the top. |
Disgorge Trackside
Where the downstream end of the disgorge cliff meets the track. |
18
All Day Sucker
Beautiful looking offwidth. |
Fat Bottom Area
Directly above the track is a buttress about 15 metres high with a bolted arete at each end. |
Fat Bottom Area |
20
The Secret Road
Shares the same start chimney and first FH as TBTSFBG. The route only becomes visible when you move left on the first big ledge. Step in from the block at the base and bridge up the semi open book corner. A few delicate face moves on small holds. Shares the same top anchor as TBTSFBG. |
23
★★ The Best Thing Since Fat Bottom Girls
The arete on the left hand end of the buttress with 5 FH. A hop to get established on the face above the undercut, followed by nice climbing up the arete. Access is via the chimmney with one FH to protect it. A good route after the dirty wide crack. DBB at top |
30
★★ Sean
The slightly overhanging rounded arete straight off the path on the right hand end of the buttress. A hard start and 2 bolts of somewhat dirty rock leads to a horizontal break. Then sustained, powerful and technical climbing on excellent rock through 3 more bolts to lower offs. |
Hot Mess Buttress
A collection of quality hard sport routes all well equipped with lower-offs. |
Hot Mess Buttress |
24
★★★ Rockafella Skank
The high quality compression line straight up the face of the left most pinnacle. 4 U bolts and lower-offs |
27 - 29
Hot Mess Gladdys Project
unbolted face with DBB |
30 - 32
Piece of Cake Project
The hardest open project in the Gorge and possibly the hardest line in the gorge if it goes. Takes the blank left face and sharp arete to DBB |
26 - 28
Zombie Project
Right side of arete to DBB |
28
★★ Hot Pockets
The pocketed face and left arete to DBB |
16
Hot Shower
Obvious crack RHS of "Hot Pockets" to shared DBB. Avoid large loose block at start. |
Anopheles Area
Most climbs are equipped with their own DBB, which is the preferred method of descent to avoid raining terror down on to the tourist track. If scrambling around, please take extra care to avoid kicking down loose rock and other debris. Climbing straight off the Tourist Track should be looked at as a privilege and not a right. Access could very easily be taken away. Please be good custodians for our sport by leaving enough space for walkers when belaying, and if bouldering - have a spotter manage your mats &/or keep them well off the main path. Preferably brush your holds of chalk once finished to maintain natural aesthetics, and for other climbers who follow. |
Anopheles Area |
15
★ Cypress Crack
Obvious handcrack in small dark buttress just above the walking track. Take a #4 cam. |
24
★★ Anopheles
Face into thin crack. Stick clip first bolt. DBB |
17
Ned
Located uphill of the lower cliff. Hand crack on left. DBB |
16
Dirichnum Rectum
Most climbs are equipped with their own DBB, which is the preferred method of descent to avoid raining terror down on to the tourist track. If scrambling around, please take extra care to avoid kicking down loose rock and other debris. Climbing straight off the Tourist Track should be looked at as a privilege and not a right. Access could very easily be taken away. Please be good custodians for our sport by leaving enough space for walkers when belaying, and if bouldering - have a spotter manage your mats &/or keep them well off the main path. Preferably brush your holds of chalk once finished to maintain natural aesthetics, and for other climbers who follow. |
Double Dozen Area
The most popular area on the shady side. Situated just off the track at a large viewing platform with a bench. Opposite Gabriel Buttress on the Sunnyside |
Double Dozen Area |
Listen Silent Area
About 25m upstream is a set of stone stairs leading to an alcove with two polished blocks inscribed with the words 'Listen' and 'Silent' |
18
Flushed
Offwidth corner on the leftside of the buttress with some loose chockstones |
24
Sounding silence
The main line up the face of the alcove. Climb past 3 FH to stand on pedestal, place some gear in the crack, from here some holds out left lead the way to the top. DBB on ledge. |
29
Freeloader
Two bolts up a very blank looking rounded arete/face lead to an easier crack. |
Double Dozen Cliff |
18
★ Pipe Crack
Wide crack on far L of main face. |
17
★★ Afternoon Delights
Most climbs are equipped with their own DBB, which is the preferred method of descent to avoid raining terror down on to the tourist track. If scrambling around, please take extra care to avoid kicking down loose rock and other debris. Climbing straight off the Tourist Track should be looked at as a privilege and not a right. Access could very easily be taken away. Please be good custodians for our sport by leaving enough space for walkers when belaying, and if bouldering - have a spotter manage your mats &/or keep them well off the main path. Preferably brush your holds of chalk once finished to maintain natural aesthetics, and for other climbers who follow. |
18
★★ Garbo
Most climbs are equipped with their own DBB, which is the preferred method of descent to avoid raining terror down on to the tourist track. If scrambling around, please take extra care to avoid kicking down loose rock and other debris. Climbing straight off the Tourist Track should be looked at as a privilege and not a right. Access could very easily be taken away. Please be good custodians for our sport by leaving enough space for walkers when belaying, and if bouldering - have a spotter manage your mats &/or keep them well off the main path. Preferably brush your holds of chalk once finished to maintain natural aesthetics, and for other climbers who follow. |
22
★★★ Double Dozen
The eye catching steep finger crack splitting the middle of the buttress. A gorge classic. |
V2
★ Double Dozen boulder problem
Climb the start of Double Dozen (Classic 22 trad route) to the ledge up slopy crimps in the corner. |
24
★★ No Right Turn
The two thin cracks. DBB at the top. |
26
★★ It's in the Veins
Face 5m to the right of NRT |
26
★★ Future World
The arete right of 'It’s in the Veins.' DBB. |
Pipedreams Cliffs
From the R (downstream) side of the main buttress, head uphill via a fixed rope to reach the base of these climbs. |
22 R
★★ Bazooka
Takes the corner and thin crack left of Pipedreams. Thin gear in the crack and bumping an extended #6 up the corner is a good backup. Build a nest before committing to the top crack and blast to glory. |
19
Plumbers Crack
Climbs lest side of face to a big ledge and up sharp corner. |
22
★ Pipedreams
Seems like some holds have broken off since the original line was established. To keep at the grade...after clipping the second bolt - traverse R along rails to rounded arete. DBB |
Machu Picchu Area
Most climbs are equipped with their own DBB, which is the preferred method of descent to avoid raining terror down on to the tourist track. If scrambling around, please take extra care to avoid kicking down loose rock and other debris. Climbing straight off the Tourist Track should be looked at as a privilege and not a right. Access could very easily be taken away. Please be good custodians for our sport by leaving enough space for walkers when belaying, and if bouldering - have a spotter manage your mats &/or keep them well off the main path. Preferably brush your holds of chalk once finished to maintain natural aesthetics, and for other climbers who follow. |
Machu Picchu Area |
Lower Bunker Buttress |
16
Tom's Line
On the up-river face, an offwidth groove to chimney |
19
Sackville Street
Rough finger crack with a little roof |
22
★★ Machu Picchu
Isolated pinnacle, located slightly uphill and upstream of Moorhead's Buttress. 2 bolts and some wires. DBB |
Upper Bunker Buttress |
Wandering Face
short face with bouldery style climbing. Roped climbing recommended so that no tourists are fallen on. |
Wandering Face |
24
★ The Wanderer
3 bolts in the middle of face. |
15
If You're Dad Doesn't Have a Beard You've Got Two Mums
Best climbed at low tide. Access is on the other side of the foot bridge and scramble to the base of the lower tier. Thin hands to #4 or 5 |
Moorehead Buttress
Most climbs are equipped with their own DBB, which is the preferred method of descent to avoid raining terror down on to the tourist track. If scrambling around, please take extra care to avoid kicking down loose rock and other debris. Climbing straight off the Tourist Track should be looked at as a privilege and not a right. Access could very easily be taken away. Please be good custodians for our sport by leaving enough space for walkers when belaying, and if bouldering - have a spotter manage your mats &/or keep them well off the main path. Preferably brush your holds of chalk once finished to maintain natural aesthetics, and for other climbers who follow. |
Moorehead Buttress |
Mark Morehead Buttress Left |
29
★ Suspended Animation
Bolted arete on LHS of main buttress. |
24
Thin Ice
Most climbs are equipped with their own DBB, which is the preferred method of descent to avoid raining terror down on to the tourist track. If scrambling around, please take extra care to avoid kicking down loose rock and other debris. Climbing straight off the Tourist Track should be looked at as a privilege and not a right. Access could very easily be taken away. Please be good custodians for our sport by leaving enough space for walkers when belaying, and if bouldering - have a spotter manage your mats &/or keep them well off the main path. Preferably brush your holds of chalk once finished to maintain natural aesthetics, and for other climbers who follow. |
★★ Thin crack project
Would be easily the hardest trad route in Launceston |
28
★★ The Gay Bar
Most climbs are equipped with their own DBB, which is the preferred method of descent to avoid raining terror down on to the tourist track. If scrambling around, please take extra care to avoid kicking down loose rock and other debris. Climbing straight off the Tourist Track should be looked at as a privilege and not a right. Access could very easily be taken away. Please be good custodians for our sport by leaving enough space for walkers when belaying, and if bouldering - have a spotter manage your mats &/or keep them well off the main path. Preferably brush your holds of chalk once finished to maintain natural aesthetics, and for other climbers who follow. |
21
★ Strictly Ballroom
Bolted crack & arete on far RHS of main buttress. |
Mark Morehead Buttress Right |
22
★★ Road to the Lost City
The line of carrot bolts up the face around and right of main wall. Traverse in from L crack. DBB |
18
The One That Wasn't
Steep crack with face holds that make the climbing pleasant |
19
Manitou
Hard start to steeping crack |
Gold 101 Area
Downstream from Mark Morehead Buttress is a gully with a bridge and a large black face up and right (downstream) |
Gold 101 Area |
Green Destroyer Gully |
23
★★ Green Destroyer
Most climbs are equipped with their own DBB, which is the preferred method of descent to avoid raining terror down on to the tourist track. If scrambling around, please take extra care to avoid kicking down loose rock and other debris. Climbing straight off the Tourist Track should be looked at as a privilege and not a right. Access could very easily be taken away. Please be good custodians for our sport by leaving enough space for walkers when belaying, and if bouldering - have a spotter manage your mats &/or keep them well off the main path. Preferably brush your holds of chalk once finished to maintain natural aesthetics, and for other climbers who follow. |
High Face
The commanding black face above and downstream of the Green Destroyer Gully |
21
Gold 101
Cross fence and climb up face and slab to access the middle of the tall face. Thin and scary in a great position. |
Kohoutek Buttresses
Most climbs are equipped with their own DBB, which is the preferred method of descent to avoid raining terror down on to the tourist track. If scrambling around, please take extra care to avoid kicking down loose rock and other debris. Climbing straight off the Tourist Track should be looked at as a privilege and not a right. Access could very easily be taken away. Please be good custodians for our sport by leaving enough space for walkers when belaying, and if bouldering - have a spotter manage your mats &/or keep them well off the main path. Preferably brush your holds of chalk once finished to maintain natural aesthetics, and for other climbers who follow. |
Kohoutek Buttresses |
Left Kohoutek
Access starts the same as for Right Kahoutek, straight uphill (via the slabs) from the tree stump shelter on the Shady Side Track. Once the old pipeline is reached, follow it left (upstream) and slightly uphill to reach the cliff. There is a good ledge at the base of the climbs, but be careful scrambling around not to kick rocks down onto the tourist track. DBB on top |
19
Rose in the Dust
Most climbs are equipped with their own DBB, which is the preferred method of descent to avoid raining terror down on to the tourist track. If scrambling around, please take extra care to avoid kicking down loose rock and other debris. Climbing straight off the Tourist Track should be looked at as a privilege and not a right. Access could very easily be taken away. Please be good custodians for our sport by leaving enough space for walkers when belaying, and if bouldering - have a spotter manage your mats &/or keep them well off the main path. Preferably brush your holds of chalk once finished to maintain natural aesthetics, and for other climbers who follow. |
21
Iliocostalis
Corner left of bolted arete. DBB |
23
★★ Only the Wheel
Nice looking bolted arete. 3 carrots + a ring bolt. SBB |
18
Kohoutek
Most climbs are equipped with their own DBB, which is the preferred method of descent to avoid raining terror down on to the tourist track. If scrambling around, please take extra care to avoid kicking down loose rock and other debris. Climbing straight off the Tourist Track should be looked at as a privilege and not a right. Access could very easily be taken away. Please be good custodians for our sport by leaving enough space for walkers when belaying, and if bouldering - have a spotter manage your mats &/or keep them well off the main path. Preferably brush your holds of chalk once finished to maintain natural aesthetics, and for other climbers who follow. |
From the shelter with concrete tree stumps on the Shady Side, head directly uphill via some rocky sl
From the shelter with concrete tree stumps on the Shady Side, head directly uphill via some rocky slabs and vegetated ramps until an old pipeline is reached. Continue upwards (via blue ropes) to reach the compact Right Kahoutek cliff. |
24
In Cahouts
Fused corner on left |
24
★ Lazy Mahout
Bolted arete. DBB |
18
Rainy Day Woman
Most climbs are equipped with their own DBB, which is the preferred method of descent to avoid raining terror down on to the tourist track. If scrambling around, please take extra care to avoid kicking down loose rock and other debris. Climbing straight off the Tourist Track should be looked at as a privilege and not a right. Access could very easily be taken away. Please be good custodians for our sport by leaving enough space for walkers when belaying, and if bouldering - have a spotter manage your mats &/or keep them well off the main path. Preferably brush your holds of chalk once finished to maintain natural aesthetics, and for other climbers who follow. |
Mindless Pinnacle
Directly uphill from LP20. 20m downstream of the tree stumped (concrete) shelter. |
Mindless Pinnacle |
18
Merdique
The obvious short stemming corner 5m left of The Great Willy. |
19
★★ The Great Willy
Excellent face and slappy arete climbing. Climb the bolted face of the obvious double arete/seperate pillar. Start at base of pillar, using chockstone for left foot if needed once climbing. DBB. |
17
The Average Willy
The crack that forms the right side of The Great Willy. Offwidth easing to hands. |
24
Sanctity
Face L of offwidth crack, moving L onto arete. |
19
Mindless
Jam crack to offwidth. Take a #5 Camalot. |
History Maker Area
Downstream from the fake timber hut is a pillar with a split by a break half way up |
History Maker Area |
23
★★ History Maker
Line of bolts on the upstream face of the split pinnacle. Another route from Gerry's 2001 rampage. Many find it hard for the grade |
19
Conifer Climb
On the downstream side of the pinnacle. Scramble up ramp, slightly wide crack with a fused section after the horizontal break. The anchors for history maker can be used for a toprope anchor with a long chord and it is best to rap off those same bolts. |