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Nodes in The Shady Side

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The Shady Side

A scattering of short dolerite crags located below and above the Tourist Track between the First Basin and Kings Bridge, on the northern side of the river.

The Trap Area

Most climbs are equipped with their own DBB, which is the preferred method of descent to avoid raining terror down on to the tourist track. If scrambling around, please take extra care to avoid kicking down loose rock and other debris.

Climbing straight off the Tourist Track should be looked at as a privilege and not a right. Access could very easily be taken away. Please be good custodians for our sport by leaving enough space for walkers when belaying, and if bouldering - have a spotter manage your mats &/or keep them well off the main path. Preferably brush your holds of chalk once finished to maintain natural aesthetics, and for other climbers who follow.

The Trap Area
23 Dr. Deviant

Upstream pinnacle with horizontal break, above the walkway with a line of U's on the right arete. 23 for climbers 6 foot and up ramps up significantly if shorter

17 Moss Groove

Vegetated easy angled jam crack on LHS

17 Nymphogranuloma

Hand crack directly beside the track. Belay from pillars above the hole (#1, #2 cams). The large block seems solid enough. DBB

22 The Trap

Face climb R of the hand crack. Can belay on pillars above hole (#1 or #2 cams for crack), or before jumping fence (please don’t block the path). DBB

20 The Onanist

The obvious clean offwidth on the buttress set back slightly from the track. Good climbing which actually doesn't require too much wide crack technique. DBB

Prince of Darkness Area

Most climbs are equipped with their own DBB, which is the preferred method of descent to avoid raining terror down on to the tourist track. If scrambling around, please take extra care to avoid kicking down loose rock and other debris.

Climbing straight off the Tourist Track should be looked at as a privilege and not a right. Access could very easily be taken away. Please be good custodians for our sport by leaving enough space for walkers when belaying, and if bouldering - have a spotter manage your mats &/or keep them well off the main path. Preferably brush your holds of chalk once finished to maintain natural aesthetics, and for other climbers who follow.

Prince of Darkness Area
24 King of Pain

Most climbs are equipped with their own DBB, which is the preferred method of descent to avoid raining terror down on to the tourist track. If scrambling around, please take extra care to avoid kicking down loose rock and other debris.

Climbing straight off the Tourist Track should be looked at as a privilege and not a right. Access could very easily be taken away. Please be good custodians for our sport by leaving enough space for walkers when belaying, and if bouldering - have a spotter manage your mats &/or keep them well off the main path. Preferably brush your holds of chalk once finished to maintain natural aesthetics, and for other climbers who follow.

21 Prince Of Darkness

Most climbs are equipped with their own DBB, which is the preferred method of descent to avoid raining terror down on to the tourist track. If scrambling around, please take extra care to avoid kicking down loose rock and other debris.

Climbing straight off the Tourist Track should be looked at as a privilege and not a right. Access could very easily be taken away. Please be good custodians for our sport by leaving enough space for walkers when belaying, and if bouldering - have a spotter manage your mats &/or keep them well off the main path. Preferably brush your holds of chalk once finished to maintain natural aesthetics, and for other climbers who follow.

20 Queen of Salsa

Most climbs are equipped with their own DBB, which is the preferred method of descent to avoid raining terror down on to the tourist track. If scrambling around, please take extra care to avoid kicking down loose rock and other debris.

Climbing straight off the Tourist Track should be looked at as a privilege and not a right. Access could very easily be taken away. Please be good custodians for our sport by leaving enough space for walkers when belaying, and if bouldering - have a spotter manage your mats &/or keep them well off the main path. Preferably brush your holds of chalk once finished to maintain natural aesthetics, and for other climbers who follow.

21 Vast Deferens

The best pure bridging corner in the lower gorge. 30m downstream of POD climbs an easy corner to a large belay ledge. Technical stemming protected by good RPs to a DBB.

21 Johnny The Rock Meets Gillian The Badger

A beautiful piece of rock, starts down right in the chimney to thin crack. Pull through roof via spike and begin traversing left via hand crack. DBB high on face around left arete.

Dammit Area

Most climbs are equipped with their own DBB, which is the preferred method of descent to avoid raining terror down on to the tourist track. If scrambling around, please take extra care to avoid kicking down loose rock and other debris.

Climbing straight off the Tourist Track should be looked at as a privilege and not a right. Access could very easily be taken away. Please be good custodians for our sport by leaving enough space for walkers when belaying, and if bouldering - have a spotter manage your mats &/or keep them well off the main path. Preferably brush your holds of chalk once finished to maintain natural aesthetics, and for other climbers who follow.

Dammit Area
Upper Disgorge

Access to the top of the cliff: park on the corner of South Esk Rd and Bain terrace. Walk up the fire trail, which takes a left turn. Follow the trail for about 500m, until you see a pipeline to your right, pointing downhill. There will be a cairn to the left. Go downhill and follow the cairned path to the top of the cliff. Use the tree to rap/scramble down to the DBB.

25 Dammit

One of the best in the gorge. An incipient crack on the left offers good protection.

23 Disgorge

Powerful and technical line to the right

Lower Disgorge

Directly and steeply downhill from the previous climbs

18 Gorble

Hand crack left of chimney groove

22 The One That Got Away

A short finger crack, not visible from the walkway, on the right of the buttress downhill from the main Disgorge cliff, opening up at the top.

Disgorge Trackside

Where the downstream end of the disgorge cliff meets the track.

18 All Day Sucker

Beautiful looking offwidth.

Fat Bottom Area

Directly above the track is a buttress about 15 metres high with a bolted arete at each end.

Fat Bottom Area
20 The Secret Road

Shares the same start chimney and first FH as TBTSFBG. The route only becomes visible when you move left on the first big ledge. Step in from the block at the base and bridge up the semi open book corner. A few delicate face moves on small holds. Shares the same top anchor as TBTSFBG.

23 The Best Thing Since Fat Bottom Girls

The arete on the left hand end of the buttress with 5 FH. A hop to get established on the face above the undercut, followed by nice climbing up the arete. Access is via the chimmney with one FH to protect it. A good route after the dirty wide crack. DBB at top

30 Sean

The slightly overhanging rounded arete straight off the path on the right hand end of the buttress. A hard start and 2 bolts of somewhat dirty rock leads to a horizontal break. Then sustained, powerful and technical climbing on excellent rock through 3 more bolts to lower offs.

Hot Mess Buttress

A collection of quality hard sport routes all well equipped with lower-offs.

Hot Mess Buttress
24 Rockafella Skank

The high quality compression line straight up the face of the left most pinnacle. 4 U bolts and lower-offs

27 - 29 Hot Mess Gladdys Project

unbolted face with DBB

30 - 32 Piece of Cake Project

The hardest open project in the Gorge and possibly the hardest line in the gorge if it goes. Takes the blank left face and sharp arete to DBB

26 - 28 Zombie Project

Right side of arete to DBB

28 Hot Pockets

The pocketed face and left arete to DBB

16 Hot Shower

Obvious crack RHS of "Hot Pockets" to shared DBB. Avoid large loose block at start.

Anopheles Area

Most climbs are equipped with their own DBB, which is the preferred method of descent to avoid raining terror down on to the tourist track. If scrambling around, please take extra care to avoid kicking down loose rock and other debris.

Climbing straight off the Tourist Track should be looked at as a privilege and not a right. Access could very easily be taken away. Please be good custodians for our sport by leaving enough space for walkers when belaying, and if bouldering - have a spotter manage your mats &/or keep them well off the main path. Preferably brush your holds of chalk once finished to maintain natural aesthetics, and for other climbers who follow.

Anopheles Area
15 Cypress Crack

Obvious handcrack in small dark buttress just above the walking track. Take a #4 cam.

24 Anopheles

Face into thin crack. Stick clip first bolt. DBB

17 Ned

Located uphill of the lower cliff. Hand crack on left. DBB

16 Dirichnum Rectum

Most climbs are equipped with their own DBB, which is the preferred method of descent to avoid raining terror down on to the tourist track. If scrambling around, please take extra care to avoid kicking down loose rock and other debris.

Climbing straight off the Tourist Track should be looked at as a privilege and not a right. Access could very easily be taken away. Please be good custodians for our sport by leaving enough space for walkers when belaying, and if bouldering - have a spotter manage your mats &/or keep them well off the main path. Preferably brush your holds of chalk once finished to maintain natural aesthetics, and for other climbers who follow.

Double Dozen Area

The most popular area on the shady side. Situated just off the track at a large viewing platform with a bench. Opposite Gabriel Buttress on the Sunnyside

Double Dozen Area
Listen Silent Area

About 25m upstream is a set of stone stairs leading to an alcove with two polished blocks inscribed with the words 'Listen' and 'Silent'

18 Flushed

Offwidth corner on the leftside of the buttress with some loose chockstones

24 Sounding silence

The main line up the face of the alcove. Climb past 3 FH to stand on pedestal, place some gear in the crack, from here some holds out left lead the way to the top. DBB on ledge.

29 Freeloader

Two bolts up a very blank looking rounded arete/face lead to an easier crack.

Double Dozen Cliff
18 Pipe Crack

Wide crack on far L of main face.

17 Afternoon Delights

Most climbs are equipped with their own DBB, which is the preferred method of descent to avoid raining terror down on to the tourist track. If scrambling around, please take extra care to avoid kicking down loose rock and other debris.

Climbing straight off the Tourist Track should be looked at as a privilege and not a right. Access could very easily be taken away. Please be good custodians for our sport by leaving enough space for walkers when belaying, and if bouldering - have a spotter manage your mats &/or keep them well off the main path. Preferably brush your holds of chalk once finished to maintain natural aesthetics, and for other climbers who follow.

18 Garbo

Most climbs are equipped with their own DBB, which is the preferred method of descent to avoid raining terror down on to the tourist track. If scrambling around, please take extra care to avoid kicking down loose rock and other debris.

Climbing straight off the Tourist Track should be looked at as a privilege and not a right. Access could very easily be taken away. Please be good custodians for our sport by leaving enough space for walkers when belaying, and if bouldering - have a spotter manage your mats &/or keep them well off the main path. Preferably brush your holds of chalk once finished to maintain natural aesthetics, and for other climbers who follow.

22 Double Dozen

The eye catching steep finger crack splitting the middle of the buttress. A gorge classic.

V2 Double Dozen boulder problem

Climb the start of Double Dozen (Classic 22 trad route) to the ledge up slopy crimps in the corner.

24 No Right Turn

The two thin cracks. DBB at the top.

26 It's in the Veins

Face 5m to the right of NRT

26 Future World

The arete right of 'It’s in the Veins.' DBB.

Pipedreams Cliffs

From the R (downstream) side of the main buttress, head uphill via a fixed rope to reach the base of these climbs.

22 R Bazooka

Takes the corner and thin crack left of Pipedreams. Thin gear in the crack and bumping an extended #6 up the corner is a good backup. Build a nest before committing to the top crack and blast to glory.

19 Plumbers Crack

Climbs lest side of face to a big ledge and up sharp corner.

22 Pipedreams

Seems like some holds have broken off since the original line was established. To keep at the grade...after clipping the second bolt - traverse R along rails to rounded arete. DBB

Machu Picchu Area

Most climbs are equipped with their own DBB, which is the preferred method of descent to avoid raining terror down on to the tourist track. If scrambling around, please take extra care to avoid kicking down loose rock and other debris.

Climbing straight off the Tourist Track should be looked at as a privilege and not a right. Access could very easily be taken away. Please be good custodians for our sport by leaving enough space for walkers when belaying, and if bouldering - have a spotter manage your mats &/or keep them well off the main path. Preferably brush your holds of chalk once finished to maintain natural aesthetics, and for other climbers who follow.

Machu Picchu Area
Lower Bunker Buttress
16 Tom's Line

On the up-river face, an offwidth groove to chimney

19 Sackville Street

Rough finger crack with a little roof

22 Machu Picchu

Isolated pinnacle, located slightly uphill and upstream of Moorhead's Buttress. 2 bolts and some wires. DBB

Upper Bunker Buttress
Wandering Face

short face with bouldery style climbing. Roped climbing recommended so that no tourists are fallen on.

Wandering Face
24 The Wanderer

3 bolts in the middle of face.

15 If You're Dad Doesn't Have a Beard You've Got Two Mums

Best climbed at low tide. Access is on the other side of the foot bridge and scramble to the base of the lower tier. Thin hands to #4 or 5

Moorehead Buttress

Most climbs are equipped with their own DBB, which is the preferred method of descent to avoid raining terror down on to the tourist track. If scrambling around, please take extra care to avoid kicking down loose rock and other debris.

Climbing straight off the Tourist Track should be looked at as a privilege and not a right. Access could very easily be taken away. Please be good custodians for our sport by leaving enough space for walkers when belaying, and if bouldering - have a spotter manage your mats &/or keep them well off the main path. Preferably brush your holds of chalk once finished to maintain natural aesthetics, and for other climbers who follow.

Moorehead Buttress
Mark Morehead Buttress Left
29 Suspended Animation

Bolted arete on LHS of main buttress.

24 Thin Ice

Most climbs are equipped with their own DBB, which is the preferred method of descent to avoid raining terror down on to the tourist track. If scrambling around, please take extra care to avoid kicking down loose rock and other debris.

Climbing straight off the Tourist Track should be looked at as a privilege and not a right. Access could very easily be taken away. Please be good custodians for our sport by leaving enough space for walkers when belaying, and if bouldering - have a spotter manage your mats &/or keep them well off the main path. Preferably brush your holds of chalk once finished to maintain natural aesthetics, and for other climbers who follow.

Thin crack project

Would be easily the hardest trad route in Launceston

28 The Gay Bar

Most climbs are equipped with their own DBB, which is the preferred method of descent to avoid raining terror down on to the tourist track. If scrambling around, please take extra care to avoid kicking down loose rock and other debris.

Climbing straight off the Tourist Track should be looked at as a privilege and not a right. Access could very easily be taken away. Please be good custodians for our sport by leaving enough space for walkers when belaying, and if bouldering - have a spotter manage your mats &/or keep them well off the main path. Preferably brush your holds of chalk once finished to maintain natural aesthetics, and for other climbers who follow.

21 Strictly Ballroom

Bolted crack & arete on far RHS of main buttress.

Mark Morehead Buttress Right
22 Road to the Lost City

The line of carrot bolts up the face around and right of main wall. Traverse in from L crack. DBB

18 The One That Wasn't

Steep crack with face holds that make the climbing pleasant

19 Manitou

Hard start to steeping crack

Gold 101 Area

Downstream from Mark Morehead Buttress is a gully with a bridge and a large black face up and right (downstream)

Gold 101 Area
Green Destroyer Gully
23 Green Destroyer

Most climbs are equipped with their own DBB, which is the preferred method of descent to avoid raining terror down on to the tourist track. If scrambling around, please take extra care to avoid kicking down loose rock and other debris.

Climbing straight off the Tourist Track should be looked at as a privilege and not a right. Access could very easily be taken away. Please be good custodians for our sport by leaving enough space for walkers when belaying, and if bouldering - have a spotter manage your mats &/or keep them well off the main path. Preferably brush your holds of chalk once finished to maintain natural aesthetics, and for other climbers who follow.

High Face

The commanding black face above and downstream of the Green Destroyer Gully

21 Gold 101

Cross fence and climb up face and slab to access the middle of the tall face. Thin and scary in a great position.

Kohoutek Buttresses

Most climbs are equipped with their own DBB, which is the preferred method of descent to avoid raining terror down on to the tourist track. If scrambling around, please take extra care to avoid kicking down loose rock and other debris.

Climbing straight off the Tourist Track should be looked at as a privilege and not a right. Access could very easily be taken away. Please be good custodians for our sport by leaving enough space for walkers when belaying, and if bouldering - have a spotter manage your mats &/or keep them well off the main path. Preferably brush your holds of chalk once finished to maintain natural aesthetics, and for other climbers who follow.

Kohoutek Buttresses
Left Kohoutek

Access starts the same as for Right Kahoutek, straight uphill (via the slabs) from the tree stump shelter on the Shady Side Track. Once the old pipeline is reached, follow it left (upstream) and slightly uphill to reach the cliff. There is a good ledge at the base of the climbs, but be careful scrambling around not to kick rocks down onto the tourist track. DBB on top

19 Rose in the Dust

Most climbs are equipped with their own DBB, which is the preferred method of descent to avoid raining terror down on to the tourist track. If scrambling around, please take extra care to avoid kicking down loose rock and other debris.

Climbing straight off the Tourist Track should be looked at as a privilege and not a right. Access could very easily be taken away. Please be good custodians for our sport by leaving enough space for walkers when belaying, and if bouldering - have a spotter manage your mats &/or keep them well off the main path. Preferably brush your holds of chalk once finished to maintain natural aesthetics, and for other climbers who follow.

21 Iliocostalis

Corner left of bolted arete. DBB

23 Only the Wheel

Nice looking bolted arete. 3 carrots + a ring bolt. SBB

18 Kohoutek

Most climbs are equipped with their own DBB, which is the preferred method of descent to avoid raining terror down on to the tourist track. If scrambling around, please take extra care to avoid kicking down loose rock and other debris.

Climbing straight off the Tourist Track should be looked at as a privilege and not a right. Access could very easily be taken away. Please be good custodians for our sport by leaving enough space for walkers when belaying, and if bouldering - have a spotter manage your mats &/or keep them well off the main path. Preferably brush your holds of chalk once finished to maintain natural aesthetics, and for other climbers who follow.

From the shelter with concrete tree stumps on the Shady Side, head directly uphill via some rocky sl

From the shelter with concrete tree stumps on the Shady Side, head directly uphill via some rocky slabs and vegetated ramps until an old pipeline is reached. Continue upwards (via blue ropes) to reach the compact Right Kahoutek cliff.

24 In Cahouts

Fused corner on left

24 Lazy Mahout

Bolted arete. DBB

18 Rainy Day Woman

Most climbs are equipped with their own DBB, which is the preferred method of descent to avoid raining terror down on to the tourist track. If scrambling around, please take extra care to avoid kicking down loose rock and other debris.

Climbing straight off the Tourist Track should be looked at as a privilege and not a right. Access could very easily be taken away. Please be good custodians for our sport by leaving enough space for walkers when belaying, and if bouldering - have a spotter manage your mats &/or keep them well off the main path. Preferably brush your holds of chalk once finished to maintain natural aesthetics, and for other climbers who follow.

Mindless Pinnacle

Directly uphill from LP20. 20m downstream of the tree stumped (concrete) shelter.

Mindless Pinnacle
18 Merdique

The obvious short stemming corner 5m left of The Great Willy.

19 The Great Willy

Excellent face and slappy arete climbing. Climb the bolted face of the obvious double arete/seperate pillar. Start at base of pillar, using chockstone for left foot if needed once climbing. DBB.

17 The Average Willy

The crack that forms the right side of The Great Willy. Offwidth easing to hands.

24 Sanctity

Face L of offwidth crack, moving L onto arete.

19 Mindless

Jam crack to offwidth. Take a #5 Camalot.

History Maker Area

Downstream from the fake timber hut is a pillar with a split by a break half way up

History Maker Area
23 History Maker

Line of bolts on the upstream face of the split pinnacle. Another route from Gerry's 2001 rampage. Many find it hard for the grade

19 Conifer Climb

On the downstream side of the pinnacle. Scramble up ramp, slightly wide crack with a fused section after the horizontal break. The anchors for history maker can be used for a toprope anchor with a long chord and it is best to rap off those same bolts.

Showing 1 - 100 out of 131 nodes.

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