Routes in The Shady Side

Upstream pinnacle with horizontal break, above the walkway with a line of U's on the right arete. 23 for climbers 6 foot and up ramps up significantly if shorter

Vegetated easy angled jam crack on LHS

Hand crack directly beside the track. Belay from pillars above the hole (#1, #2 cams). The large block seems solid enough. DBB

Face climb R of the hand crack. Can belay on pillars above hole (#1 or #2 cams for crack), or before jumping fence (please don’t block the path). DBB

The obvious clean offwidth on the buttress set back slightly from the track. Good climbing which actually doesn't require too much wide crack technique. DBB

The best pure bridging corner in the lower gorge. 30m downstream of POD climbs an easy corner to a large belay ledge. Technical stemming protected by good RPs to a DBB.

A beautiful piece of rock, starts down right in the chimney to thin crack. Pull through roof via spike and begin traversing left via hand crack. DBB high on face around left arete.

One of the best in the gorge. An incipient crack on the left offers good protection.

Powerful and technical line to the right

Hand crack left of chimney groove

A short finger crack, not visible from the walkway, on the right of the buttress downhill from the main Disgorge cliff, opening up at the top.

Beautiful looking offwidth.

Shares the same start chimney and first FH as TBTSFBG. The route only becomes visible when you move left on the first big ledge. Step in from the block at the base and bridge up the semi open book corner. A few delicate face moves on small holds. Shares the same top anchor as TBTSFBG.

The arete on the left hand end of the buttress with 5 FH. A hop to get established on the face above the undercut, followed by nice climbing up the arete. Access is via the chimmney with one FH to protect it. A good route after the dirty wide crack. DBB at top

The slightly overhanging rounded arete straight off the path on the right hand end of the buttress. A hard start and 2 bolts of somewhat dirty rock leads to a horizontal break. Then sustained, powerful and technical climbing on excellent rock through 3 more bolts to lower offs.

The high quality compression line straight up the face of the left most pinnacle. 4 U bolts and lower-offs

unbolted face with DBB

The hardest open project in the Gorge and possibly the hardest line in the gorge if it goes. Takes the blank left face and sharp arete to DBB

Right side of arete to DBB

The pocketed face and left arete to DBB

Obvious crack RHS of "Hot Pockets" to shared DBB. Avoid large loose block at start.

Obvious handcrack in small dark buttress just above the walking track. Take a #4 cam.

Face into thin crack. Stick clip first bolt. DBB

Located uphill of the lower cliff. Hand crack on left. DBB

Offwidth corner on the leftside of the buttress with some loose chockstones

The main line up the face of the alcove. Climb past 3 FH to stand on pedestal, place some gear in the crack, from here some holds out left lead the way to the top. DBB on ledge.

Two bolts up a very blank looking rounded arete/face lead to an easier crack.

Wide crack on far L of main face.

The eye catching steep finger crack splitting the middle of the buttress. A gorge classic.

Climb the start of Double Dozen (Classic 22 trad route) to the ledge up slopy crimps in the corner.

The two thin cracks. DBB at the top.

Face 5m to the right of NRT

The arete right of 'It’s in the Veins.' DBB.

Takes the corner and thin crack left of Pipedreams. Thin gear in the crack and bumping an extended #6 up the corner is a good backup. Build a nest before committing to the top crack and blast to glory.

Climbs lest side of face to a big ledge and up sharp corner.

Seems like some holds have broken off since the original line was established. To keep at the grade...after clipping the second bolt - traverse R along rails to rounded arete. DBB

On the up-river face, an offwidth groove to chimney

Rough finger crack with a little roof

Isolated pinnacle, located slightly uphill and upstream of Moorhead's Buttress. 2 bolts and some wires. DBB

3 bolts in the middle of face.

Best climbed at low tide. Access is on the other side of the foot bridge and scramble to the base of the lower tier. Thin hands to #4 or 5

Bolted arete on LHS of main buttress.

Would be easily the hardest trad route in Launceston

Bolted crack & arete on far RHS of main buttress.

The line of carrot bolts up the face around and right of main wall. Traverse in from L crack. DBB

Steep crack with face holds that make the climbing pleasant

Hard start to steeping crack

Cross fence and climb up face and slab to access the middle of the tall face. Thin and scary in a great position.

Corner left of bolted arete. DBB

Nice looking bolted arete. 3 carrots + a ring bolt. SBB

Fused corner on left

Bolted arete. DBB

The obvious short stemming corner 5m left of The Great Willy.

Excellent face and slappy arete climbing. Climb the bolted face of the obvious double arete/seperate pillar. Start at base of pillar, using chockstone for left foot if needed once climbing. DBB.

The crack that forms the right side of The Great Willy. Offwidth easing to hands.

Face L of offwidth crack, moving L onto arete.

Jam crack to offwidth. Take a #5 Camalot.

Line of bolts on the upstream face of the split pinnacle. Another route from Gerry's 2001 rampage. Many find it hard for the grade

On the downstream side of the pinnacle. Scramble up ramp, slightly wide crack with a fused section after the horizontal break. The anchors for history maker can be used for a toprope anchor with a long chord and it is best to rap off those same bolts.

Choose your path up the face and arete's to the DBB. Stick clip the first bolt to avoid falling down the gully.

Dylan Hill

Corner to the R of Revival Arete.

Obvious offwidth/squeeze chimney.

The bolted open book corner 5m right of Ivy Crack, thin crimps up the dihedral through the roof trending left to mantle, a long reach up and right to the anchors, supposedly 29 if you're too short to reach the hold from the ledge

Climbs the arete + face around the corner of Fighting The Authorities without using any of the face holds of FTA

Obvious clean finger crack in dark coloured rock. Good finger locking directly up the crack. Harder if you avoid bridging onto the hanging arete on the left. DBB added Jan 2016.

One had 2 carrots. These were chopped by the First Ascentionist and led on mostly inadequate gear

Up arete through low roof to join the top of Heckle

Possibly the first recorded climb in the gorge.