Routes in Lowdina

Originally a 12 meter solo, into a 6 meter run out; this route provides one of the best leads at Lowdina. Retro-bolted with the FA's permission. The line tackles the roof just right of Spazattack and is marked by guano courtesy of the local falcon. Up the face past 3 ringbolts to the horizontal break (finger sized cams), then do the boulder problem past a another bolt to the first roof. Up into the groove past the last bolt (FH), trending left under the second roof to a groove and crack. Up this with the aid of good RPs, small wires and micro-cams to finish at the DBB lower-off.

Arete past some FH's.

Up arete for 3 m left of Wetcheck. Place gear and follow leftwards rising traverse (a little run-out) to fixed piton and wires / cams. Follow thin crack (crux) to mantle and easy crack to top. DBB.

Arete right of Hooter. RP's or a big cam handy for the middle section.

Wide crack.

Poorly protected face right of Wetcheck.

Leftward trending chimney / cracks. Currently dirty but supposedly classic.

Follow crack-line 1 m left of Bismark to roof, traverse right once under roof and into Bismark for DBB.

The wide crack / chimney on the front of the buttress. DBB.

Arete right of Bismark past 3 bolts. Finishing to DBB at top of Bismark.

The steep arete past 3 bolts and trad gear

Short crack in LHS of gully.

Bouldery start to small ledge and bolt (no pro before here). Past this (crux) to finger crack and over chockstone to top. Trad belay and easy walk-off to right.

Face climbing on buttress using RP protection.

Small orange buttress at the head of the gully. Climb from left to right on FH's. DBB.

Face on the left of the Virag Buttress. RP protection.

Crack-line on left of buttress starting at the base of the gum tree. Fist jamming through bulge to stance. Then up steep hand-crack to ledge. Up face and arete to DBB above Virag.

Originally done on 2 carrots and RPs, now has 5 FH, gear still needed - see thesarvo for recommended gear.

Up crack in middle of buttress, bridge around jammed block. Enter wide crack and then up corner hand-crack to top and DBB.

The difficult layaway corner on the right of the buttress. Has spat-off many competent leaders over the years. Place high gear at the crux and take a #4 cam for the top crack.

The short sport route on back of Wolfetone. No lower-off.

Up the face of the buttress past fixed pin, to the right of Wolfetone.

Short orange corner crack.

Dirty corner crack in LHS of gully.

Slab with a carrot bolt on LHS of Surprise Surprise.

Slab to the left and above the Sweetie Buttress. 2 Carrot Bolts.

Takes the line past 2 bolts to the base of a sloping roof. Create a nest of gear in the horizontal then under-cling out right to finish up Sweetie.

The direct finish to Sweetie, and great climbing in a super location. Start as for Acerb but go R. Clip the first BR of the lip of the roof, then launch out R (technical) to a stance and the second BR. Trend back L and climb up on sidepulls and a tiny foothold (crux) to jugs, to finish up Sweetie.

Good Climbing for the grade. Up the wide crack, up the face, hand traverse left, then up the crack to a lower-off.

To the left of Yoda is an obvious clean crack-line. Stem the initial chimney corner, continue up on good hand jams and then move right onto the arete and fist crack at the top to avoid the grassy gully. Continue to DBB at the top of Chocolate.

Stellar thin crack up centre of buttress. Take RPs and microcams. DBB.

Excellent hand-crack past bulge to DBB.

Climb to the roof (gear in horizontal underneath), reach up to clip a bolt, then continue past roof on arete to the next horizontal. Continue up groove above to top and DBB. Doubles of RP3 essential. Gear is good but spaced.

Follow fist crack to ledge. Then up hand-crack and through bottomless chimney to DBB lower-off.

Adventurous chimney.

The bulging line left of Albatross that looks 3 grades harder. Up the corner to a stance below the bulge and strenuously layback through this. Up the interesting shallow chimney to a finger crack. Traverse right at the bushes to finish up the Albatross hand crack.

Australia's first 23 (and hard at the grade). Follow the layaways or traverse in from right to a delicate mantle. Up reachy smooth face to crack-line. Follow overhanging crack (crux) to top and DBB.

The face and slab on the front of the buttress to the right of Albatross has been climbed on top-rope. A decision was made not to bolt this due to its proximity to Albatross. Still worthwhile having a play though if you're at the anchor. Run the rope over the front of the buttress, and climb Albatross until at the base of the crack. Step right and up from here and follow the tricky face and delicate slab/groove above, finishing through the short crack to the anchor.

on the right side of the gully between YF and US there is an obvious crack. scramble up the gully (some gear), then enter with difficluty into the crack and jam your way to the top.

Poorly protected arete left of Greenknowe.

Chimney to first roof, past this on right to face. Then past second on the left to top and DBB.

Up face via small cams in seam and FH's to DBB.

Climbs RHS of the caged buttress.

Takes the leaning hand-crack to an easy chimney. Traverse from top of buttress to DBB above Bulging Biceps.

The direct start to Bulging Biceps, and the way to do the route.

Stick-clip bolt from gully, up face with powerful moves to some RPs and microcams. Then up crack to DBB.

The cracks on the LHS of the Papillon buttress. A bit loose.

The flake on the LHS of the Papillon Buttress.

Up face on slab past some small cams and RPs to horizontal. Above bulge and cracks to top and DBB.

jam the crack of papillion until ledge then follow the cracks on the arete resisting the temptation to bridge right (a bit contrieved but nice). follow arete until DBB of Snoober

Beaut hand-crack / corner. Trend left at top of corner to DBB above Snoober. Watch for suspect blocks at very top in chimney.

Short finger, hand, fist crack above Papillon Buttress. Walk-off left.

Excellent but hidden crack-line just right of Papillon behind the native cherry. Take a #4.

Short fist crack behind Papillon Buttress.

Layback corner, leading to small holds heading around to the nose on the left. Poor protection.

Gorgeous bulging orange rock up steep overhanging wall. Take some trad gear and draws for FH's. DBB.

Fun off-width. DBB.

Start with the boulder entry below the roof instead of the entry from the left hand side as for the original route.

Bridge shallow corner past wires and cams to clip bolt. Crux moves around arete to the left and into crackline. Follow to top and DBB.

Short layaway.

A fun filled 5 meters all by itself. Stonker gear and a few good moves makes it a good warm up before wailing wall, which is a further 40m down the hill.

Climb 'Topless on 24s' to the horizontal break, go left and up the left-most groove. Bonus points if you sling the dead branches emerging from the crack.

Climb 'Topless on 24s' to the horizontal break, go left and up the middle groove.

The obvious clean fist-sized crack line, made for learning to jam. Two micro cams are nice, stonker gear to the top.

The slab above Morning Sun, past a #4 cam, single bolt and RPs and micro-cams in the fused seam. DBB lower-off. A good introductory route to RP and micro-cam placements before tackling the more challenging routes here in this style.