Routes in Oatlands

Start at underclings 1m left of the green fence post. Up to crimps and slopey topout.

Dylan Hill

Start at big jug 1m right of fence post and dyno up to lip and desperate slopey mantle.

Start in the right hand side of the cave just to the left of the dead sheep. Climb out through loose and dirty jugs. Needs more cleaning.

Start at a jug in the middle of the little arch. Up and left to slopey top out.

Start as for previous, go right to finish as for Mutton

Start as for previous problem, crank straight up to the lip (rather than move right) and do the slopey top out.

Stand - One left of very right hand side - Up face to slopey topout

Stand - Very right hand side - Up face to slopey topout

Stand Start. Start on the black rock a few metres in from the lip on the left side of the cave, at a bit of a ridge 2 metres from the very back. Use Gaston like sloper and right hand pinch with feet in roof. Climb out into Fire in the Hole and top out the same. Originally V10 turned V8 and back up to around V9 after two holds broke.

Sitstart on pedestal on the left edge of cave and head out right to top out Note: This was originally put up as V7...general community consensus grade seems to settle in at around V5

Start as for Fire in the Hole, through the hueco and drop down into the bottom lip jug of Rumble via big move, finish as for Rumble.

Start as for Thriller in Manilla, climb to jug at lower lip and head left via big move into finish of Fire in the Hole.

Left hand start to Rumble in the Jungle. Start off opposing edges in roof.

Start off undercling in back of the cave climb two moves into thriller in Manilla

Thriller in Manilla extended, but with the excellent finish as for fire in the hole.

Start as for Rumble in the Jungle and finish as for Fire in the Hole

Classic. Stand start from jug in cave. Strenuous roof climbing to turn lip, then face to top out.

After starting Rumble head right to lip, finishing on right side of capstone.

Proud line starting as for Bongo in the Congo in the very back of the cave, after a metre or so traverse under the roof section into Flat Head and finish as for Fire in the Hole.

Roof climbing, finishing on the starting hold of Rumble. Sit start of jugs in cave about 5m right of Rumble.

Update: The final move linking Bongo in the Congo into Rumble in the Jungle has broken and further deteriorated in around 2013/14? The linking move is now considerably harder and Bongo in the Congo including the last move now goes at around V6. Historical Grade, V4..

Another Linkup. Climb all of Bongo in the Congo and finish up Rumble in the Jungle.

Start as for Flat Head and finish as for Fire in the Hole

Start as for Flounder, link into the end of 'Rumble in the Jungle' where Rumble meets the lip. Finish straight up as for Rumble.

Start as for Flounder sitstart and traverse the lip leftwards, head up on crimps about 1 metre right of Rumble, finish as for Rumble.

SDS under lip 3m right of RITJ (1m left of corner). Same start holds as Flat Head. Up on slopes & crimps.

Start as for Flounder, do the first moves and head left around the bulge into the water runnel via the big sloper. Stay away from the corner and the knee bars. Stand start from big sloper up the water runnel goes at v3.

Sitstart up short hanging corner

Sit start in corner as for Yoga, head right on slopers into Congaline of Suckholes and finish on top jug of same climb.

Sit start as for Congaline of Suckholes and head left via slopers into Yoga.

Sit start, up black streak 3m right of Flounder.

Sit start as for Congaline Of Suckholes and finish as for Frogger

Start as for Frogger and finish as for Congaline by climbing all the way into Congaline and doing its finishing move

Starts in the back left corner of the constant gardener cave, gains the slopey lip to the left of the cave, traverses the lip to the left for about a metre and heads straight up via crimps and flat juggy holds.

Starts in the left back of the constant gardener cave, makes three or so moves towards the lip of the cave and links into the Constant Gardener.

A few metres right of Congaline of Suckholes there is a bit of a cave, with a flat hold at the lip. Straight out through the cave to the flat hold, then up the slab.

SDS up over lip on knobs and up knobby slab, needs a lot of cleaning!

SDS up black groove on slopers

Start as for V2 out to lip sloper, then big move left to left hand crimp and sketchy mantle

SDS with hands matched in little cave, right hand out to sloper on lip, heel hook and difficult mantle to top

Up corner steeply on big jugs

Full traverse of the top lip of the cave. Many traverses from different starting points have been done over the years, all at roughly the same grade. Make your own adventure, crux is the lichen and dirt. Pumpy coming across the exposed lip. Mantle at pillar to finish or walk off in the corner depending on direction of traverse. Watch out for rusty fence at left the end.

Big moves between big jugs. SDS from low hold. Move up then right, then back left out roof to top out.

SDS 2m right of TCLD. Up and out through improbable big roof.

Start about 1.5m left of the fallen block on the far left of the Devil's Kitchenette at a finger slot under the roof. Move left to lip and up over bulge.

Start as for previous problem but go right to lip, then up and right on jugs.

Start about 2m left of The Cheeky Little Devil. Straight up then top out as for Cheeky Little Devil so as to avoid the hollow block.

Traverse right to left, keep going around left as far as the rock is dry

Do the 1844 traverse then finish up The Cheeky Little Devil

Start basically under the big tree, topout to the right of the tree.

Traverse juggy rail left to right then top out up right hand groove.

Start as for Sorted but straight up. There are a couple of variations on this.

Go upward from part way along the rail.

Start about 4m right of Sorted at good hold in roof. Campus up to rail and finish straight up left hand groove.

Start on the huge flat hold of the start of Antichrist. Go left to more jugs and finish as for Sorted.

Stand Start - Start as for The Antichrist, but go straight out through the roof.

Stand Start - Start on the large flat jug and traverse right for about 7m and then out to the lip.

Project - Stand Start - traverse right to left using the footholds of The Antichrist.

Stand Start - The Antichrist can be split into two easier problems, split by the large jug in the centre of the traverse. The first half climbs at about V7, and can also be done at a slightly harder grade in reverse. The second half can be done at about V8/9.

Start as for Trident, and instead of throwing to the large slope slap to the crimp 1 foot left instead. Finish out left on lip

Start in the slot at the back of the cave, climb out to the large slope and jump out right to the lip.

Stand Start - Big jump out to lip from two crimps.

Stand Start - Top out from the left hand end of the big ledge. Provides a finish for Trident or Scab Robinson.

Stand Start

Start on the back wall below the finish of Antichrist. Climb into Antichrist, do the dyno to the ledge, then top out up the water streak on the right side of the ledge.

Project - Mega hard project - starts as for the V6 and finishes in the Antichrist scoop following the obvious edges along the brake.

Sit start in back of the cave, head right.

Jump up to the lip and top out up water groove.

Project - Kim's Project

Start on the flake at the back of the roof, 1m behind the large jug. Out to lip. Originally given V14 but downgraded after a quick repeat.

Stand Start - Up face from jugs at lip

Stand Start - Up face from jugs at lip, to the right of previous problem.

Stand Start - Up face from jugs at lip, to the right of previous problem.

Hang Start - Start as for 1st V1 then traverse the lip to the right, then head up and right ending to the right of the tree.

Stand Start - Classic

Stand Start - Traverse right to left along rail

Stand Start - Start at back of cave, jump out to big slope and traverse left.

Stand Start - Start about 3m right of Darkside on the obvious jug at head height, pull out into roof then move left and finish as for Darkside.

Stand Start - Start a few metres left of the campus problem, and follow the diagonal line right.

Stand Start - Up from good hold at lip

Stand Start - Up from lip 1.5m right of V3 campus broblem

Start one meter right of Six V6, hang start the crimpy jug, move up and left, and mantle the short headwall via some sharp crimps.

Project - Sam's project through roof

Starts on same sloper as V9 and V7. Pull on move towards the lip via small crimps to the right of jug of V7. This variation elimiates the jug used in the v7 and tops out via the headwall as V9.

SDS under roof at far right of crag. Hard moves out to lip, then up. SDS from under lip is V3. Downgrading has been suggested to V5.

SDS on slopey pockets, then up to big left jug and mantle.

Sit start under steep arete closest to the island. Use two pockets left of arete, and much body tension to move up and rightish.

Hard crimp problem between Cripple and Fallen Angel

Sloper on lip 2m left of Lucifer

Good start pocket, left up to ledge then up

2m right up Lucifer, up big slopers

SDS on right side of the face 'facing' the main ckiffline

Starts on same starting hold as V5 Flat Out, move up and head right to 'nose' of boulder and mantle over right around the lip

Easy slabs. There are 3 different slab lines on the left end of the boulder.

Sitstart from flake.

Sit start about 3m left of arete on horizontal break.

Start left of arete under roof. Up on good holds about 1m left of arete without using arete after start.

Left to arete then up it.

Start as for Getting Warmer and go up the face to the R of the arete and top out.

Start as for Getting Warmer, go up and right to finish as for Comedy Value.