Routes in Oatlands

Up thin wall to slopey topout.

Grade needs confirmation. Stand start low on the arete, left hand moving between lip and face holds, right hand stays on arete. Finish over highest point on boulder.

Up thin holds to slopers. Don't use any handholds on Warm Me Up.

Obvious jugs and undercling to topout - no feet on the boulder to the right of start. It might stay dry in rain, but your shoes won't!

Up to the left of the overhang

Traverse the thin line rightwards and finish up no 4.

Out through roof and top out.

Up arete and out through overhanging prow on jugs.

Start as for no 4. but go up and right and do the slopey topout.

Sit Start Start using RH crimp and very low left arete. A couple of moves gets you to the top jugs. Avoid tree on topout. Probably v3ish from one or two moves in.

slab to left of stump

Slab to right of stump

ricky slab directly below right hand stump.

The slab to the right of green rock on pockets.

Use brushed and non-brushed holds up most lichenous part of the slab. Would probably lose a grade in difficulty and gain a grade in quality with a decent clean.

Up to flake and then jump to top.

Sit start from opposing side pulls then climb Kim’s Highball (stand).

Up to loose jugs and then dyno to flake to join Kim’s Highball.

Start at jugs under roof near left side of fallen block. Up and right via crimps to slopey ledge and the top.

Sitstart at very big jugs then up via thin sharp edges to sloping ledge, high top out.

Start in slot, out to slopey edge, fire for lip, continue to top on average holds. Sometimes a little sandy after it hasn't been climbed for a while, but a real classic.

Start as for Time, then trend left at half height to meet no 4. and finish as for that

Start 1m left of the v3 up to small edge trend right and finish at the same point as the v3

Sit Start at the flake up via small edges jump to finish jug

Start just left of the Lloyds engraving on the left hand side of the wall (the obvious left sweeping arc). Sit start at pinch (feet off slab), up via under clings to your left and sharp edges to your right. Top out using good holds at lip.

A big reach to holds in the little corner - the first ascent was by a very tall person reaching across to the top holds, this problem is considerably harder using the lower holds. The low hold has now broken and is bigger, and goes from here at about V8.

Stand start but very reachy to first hold. A crucial foothold has snapped off, making this climb much harder. Grade is unconfirmed.

Dyno to top from good hold

5m right of Lloyd's Dyno, sitstart up flake, then right and up thin slab

Sitstart under roof and climb up onto slab via jugs

Sitstart and up into curving undercling

Start on two small edges around corner, traverse leftwards along rail and into Cardboard Thin

Start at the start of the Nettle Lover traverse and climb up to the high ledge and the top.

V3/4. Sit start on good edges, move up and onto slab via small holds to top.

As for 1.Green but move right via good holds to arete, then to top.

Rock onto the blankish black slab and to top via mossy holds. Fun slab problem.

Right hand arete and slab.

SDS under roof left of Sanguine Direct. Out, around bulge to finish on the same jug hold as Sanguine Direct.

Direct SDS to Sanguine. Start under roof, moving through slopers on the face. The finish is the same as Sanguine

R to L traverse of sloper rail, finishing up to jug under roof. Great rock.

Start as for Sanguine, but move up then left on slopes and pinches. Finish on jug.

Start roughly in the middle of the Sanguine traverse, directly under the roof pocket on slopers, bust straight up and finish as for Roundhouse.

Variation: Out of confusion as to exactly where Roundhouse goes, most people tend to do the slightly easier 'Roof-Pocket' variation which uses the big roof pocket instead of the slopes and pinches. This variation goes at around V5

Hang start on low ledge with your heel up. Move right along the line for a couple of metres to finish on jug. The extension through the lip and top out would probably go.

The left arete of the cave, start low with right hand on undercling sloper and left hand on the broken hold. Left hand starting hold broke sometime in 2016. Still sits at V10. Follow the hanging arete and finish on the flat jug. A hard topout may be possible.

The low start to 'angels on the sidelines'. Start on sloping crimps just below the 'sexy' graffiti. Adds a few hard tension moves.

Very hard. Sit start as for Fade to Black, up into the rib and hard left via big move to finish as for Angels on the Sidelines. Will add several grades to Fade to Black

Hang Start on the horrendous pinches, slap up to slopers and traverse right to jug as for Kung Fu Fighting.

Start on undercling and slope and slap up to slopes and traverse right to jug.

Was V7 until starting hold broke. Start on undercling and broken sloper.

Start on the slopers right hand side of Acid Reign. Up to same finish

Traverse from the huge juggy sloper to the right as far as possible

As for low traverse but hands only on the thinner line

Start on slopes heel up. Probably easier if you're tall and harder if you're not.

Start on low crimpy rail 3m right of Groove Train, up to slopers then head left to finish at nose.

The farthest left of the 3 water-grooves

Stand start the double water groove just to the left of the cave arete.

About 50m right of the dam is a very steep hand crack usually full of cobwebs. Sit start on finger locks, up to jams, top out on ledge.

About 25m to the right of Crack Head is a free standing boulder, a bit fractured and loose but has a couple of fun problems.

Sit start on good holds, up to curving arete, use holds only on arete. Top out at apex of boulder.

Start as for previous problem, up middle of face using good edge and loose finger crack, dyno to apex. No holds on arete.

30m? right of the bottom dam is a bulgy arete feature just to the left of a little chimney crack. Sit start left of the crack, head left and around the arete, then up to slopers.

The shallow crack 6m right of Mr Happy Place. Sit start on sidepull at bottom of crack, climb up to ledge and then top out in any direction that appeals.

Start as for Electric Avenue but go left to the next set of jugs.

Start 1m left of arete at jug. Up jugs to top.

Start at flat hold 1m right of arete.

Start on undercling and go up and left, to finish as for El Nino

Start in between El Nino and BuzzyLand at an undercling. Up to the two crimps on BuzzyLand and then straight up.