Nodes in Below the Waterfall

The style at Maidenwell to date has been traditional climbing. Bolt placements are belay anchors only, and these are stainless expansion bolts with fixed hangers. There is some potential for bolting the listed routes and new routes. I hope that sanity and logic prevail in endeavours of this kind. Bear in mind that overt bolting may impact on access here. Time will tell. Always give due regard to rock fall and work to reduce its incidence, as there may still be some loose rock on the listed climbs. The waterhole and picnic area have regular visitors on weekends, so be conscious of anyone in your climbing vicinity. Once the obvious loose rock is removed, the surface is very reliable.

The style at Maidenwell to date has been traditional climbing. Bolt placements are belay anchors only, and these are stainless expansion bolts with fixed hangers. There is some potential for bolting the listed routes and new routes. I hope that sanity and logic prevail in endeavours of this kind. Bear in mind that overt bolting may impact on access here. Time will tell. Always give due regard to rock fall and work to reduce its incidence, as there may still be some loose rock on the listed climbs. The waterhole and picnic area have regular visitors on weekends, so be conscious of anyone in your climbing vicinity. Once the obvious loose rock is removed, the surface is very reliable.

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The style at Maidenwell to date has been traditional climbing. Bolt placements are belay anchors only, and these are stainless expansion bolts with fixed hangers. There is some potential for bolting the listed routes and new routes. I hope that sanity and logic prevail in endeavours of this kind. Bear in mind that overt bolting may impact on access here. Time will tell. Always give due regard to rock fall and work to reduce its incidence, as there may still be some loose rock on the listed climbs. The waterhole and picnic area have regular visitors on weekends, so be conscious of anyone in your climbing vicinity. Once the obvious loose rock is removed, the surface is very reliable.

The style at Maidenwell to date has been traditional climbing. Bolt placements are belay anchors only, and these are stainless expansion bolts with fixed hangers. There is some potential for bolting the listed routes and new routes. I hope that sanity and logic prevail in endeavours of this kind. Bear in mind that overt bolting may impact on access here. Time will tell. Always give due regard to rock fall and work to reduce its incidence, as there may still be some loose rock on the listed climbs. The waterhole and picnic area have regular visitors on weekends, so be conscious of anyone in your climbing vicinity. Once the obvious loose rock is removed, the surface is very reliable.

The style at Maidenwell to date has been traditional climbing. Bolt placements are belay anchors only, and these are stainless expansion bolts with fixed hangers. There is some potential for bolting the listed routes and new routes. I hope that sanity and logic prevail in endeavours of this kind. Bear in mind that overt bolting may impact on access here. Time will tell. Always give due regard to rock fall and work to reduce its incidence, as there may still be some loose rock on the listed climbs. The waterhole and picnic area have regular visitors on weekends, so be conscious of anyone in your climbing vicinity. Once the obvious loose rock is removed, the surface is very reliable.

The style at Maidenwell to date has been traditional climbing. Bolt placements are belay anchors only, and these are stainless expansion bolts with fixed hangers. There is some potential for bolting the listed routes and new routes. I hope that sanity and logic prevail in endeavours of this kind. Bear in mind that overt bolting may impact on access here. Time will tell. Always give due regard to rock fall and work to reduce its incidence, as there may still be some loose rock on the listed climbs. The waterhole and picnic area have regular visitors on weekends, so be conscious of anyone in your climbing vicinity. Once the obvious loose rock is removed, the surface is very reliable.

This shady wall is the first good thing you see when you get to the bottom of the stairs. It borders the picnic area and has lawn right up to its base. The decent trail is to the right of the wall.

Climb the hound’s face. Up the small face at the far left of the wall that is shaped like a dog’s head, continue up through the blocks. Good protection

Start below slightly overhanging crack at the far left of the wall, close to the water. Climb horizontal breaks, through crack bulge, and onto slabs. Finish with a tricky move through cracked roof.

Natural belay.

A jamming problem. Clean rock, a logical line, fantastic climbing. Straight up the crack then through the overhang with some thoughtful moves. Continue directly up the slabs.

Fun chimneying with variety. Directly up the chimney, top out at the ledge on the left. Poor protection.

The style at Maidenwell to date has been traditional climbing. Bolt placements are belay anchors only, and these are stainless expansion bolts with fixed hangers. There is some potential for bolting the listed routes and new routes. I hope that sanity and logic prevail in endeavours of this kind. Bear in mind that overt bolting may impact on access here. Time will tell. Always give due regard to rock fall and work to reduce its incidence, as there may still be some loose rock on the listed climbs. The waterhole and picnic area have regular visitors on weekends, so be conscious of anyone in your climbing vicinity. Once the obvious loose rock is removed, the surface is very reliable.

A distinctive, slightly overhung crack line. Start at the straight up hand crack that splits the wall. Go directly up the crack, absorbing cams and donker nuts. Continue up the small face at the right. A section of this crack has crumbly rock, affecting protection placements, this may clean up over time. Moderate protection.

Finger jamming fun. This is behind The Spearhead. Go up. Starts left of the big boulder on the ledge above. Move up through the overhang to the ledge at the right; this section is shared with Sinbad. Go left past the tree to the finger crack and proceed up to a sexy completion with wondrous jugs. A section of this crack has crumbly rock, affecting protection placements, this may clean up over time. Moderate protection.

Slippery, then gritty. Start is shared with I Feel Good. Start left of the big boulder on the ledge above. Move up through the overhang to the ledge at the right. Move left then straight up the crack. A section of this crack has crumbly rock, affecting protection placements, this may clean up over time. Poor protection.

A magic climb climaxing with a shallow finger crack. Starts right of the boulder on the ledge above. Up the varied crack, then up onto the boulder. Ascend the cruciform crack at right, passing the crux in the last few moves. Some possible protection at the start, then no protection to finish. Would accept a couple of camouflaged bolts. First Toprope Ascent by Luke Hyam on 11/05/2003

An arete originally soloed. Starts at the right end of the wall, and is a rounded arete. Follow the arete with enjoyable slabby moves. No Protection.

Round looking boulder with arching breaks. Stunning quality granite.

Crouch start. Start on the slopey left hand and a mini side pull. Find the footer. Climb up the breaks to a slopey top out.

Good clean rock on The Spearhead. It’s the dominant split boulder seen across the water hole from the picnic area. There is a triangle of three bolts at the top. The top can be scrambled from behind.

The obvious chimney on Spearhead boulder. Straight up the body crack, jamming yourself in nice and tight. Lovely juvley.

Delicate and cybery. Zigzag up, keeping to the face.

Flippery good fun. Pull the blocks and proceed up the arete.

Climb through overhanging blocks, then trend right following diagonal flake, before tricky mantle move to gain arete ledge. Finish up arete. No gear in the second half of the route.

Alteratively, stem over to chimney, then to top. Watch your rope on the arete.

Miffy Rock is a dome like stretch of rock crowned by a large round boulder. This large round boulder can be seen across the waterhole from the picnic area, but from this angle the majority of the Miffy Rock is obscured by The Spearhead.

The style at Maidenwell to date has been traditional climbing. Bolt placements are belay anchors only, and these are stainless expansion bolts with fixed hangers. There is some potential for bolting the listed routes and new routes. I hope that sanity and logic prevail in endeavours of this kind. Bear in mind that overt bolting may impact on access here. Time will tell. Always give due regard to rock fall and work to reduce its incidence, as there may still be some loose rock on the listed climbs. The waterhole and picnic area have regular visitors on weekends, so be conscious of anyone in your climbing vicinity. Once the obvious loose rock is removed, the surface is very reliable.

The style at Maidenwell to date has been traditional climbing. Bolt placements are belay anchors only, and these are stainless expansion bolts with fixed hangers. There is some potential for bolting the listed routes and new routes. I hope that sanity and logic prevail in endeavours of this kind. Bear in mind that overt bolting may impact on access here. Time will tell. Always give due regard to rock fall and work to reduce its incidence, as there may still be some loose rock on the listed climbs. The waterhole and picnic area have regular visitors on weekends, so be conscious of anyone in your climbing vicinity. Once the obvious loose rock is removed, the surface is very reliable.

Maiden Wing is the length of rock that is clearly seen across the water hole from the picnic area. It is topped by a large jumble of blocks with a pronounced overhang. The routes here are slabs, cracks and corners with pleasing variations. Maiden Wing is separated by the waters edge so the base is approached in two ways.

A line chosen by a groovy Canadian girl. Up the big chunky corner, then following the ridge of rock. Proceed over the blocks to top out. Moderate protection.

An entertaining arete with a nice finish. Starts 3m right of TC. Pull the recess, follow the arete, enter the slab, then breach the small overhang and blocks. Poor protection.

A sustained slab with a recessed start. Start by lining up the centre of the slab right of TC. Pull the recess, then proceed directly up the centre of the slab to breach the overhang at its highest point.

A blocky face topped with a groovy slab. Up the blocky face to vegetated ledge. Move right on ledge almost to corner, then crank up the slab following either of the diagonal cracks. Moderate protection.

A cruisy layed-back corner. Start at the big corner. Layback the corner, then proceed up the slab ramp, tending left. Moderate protection.

Climb up layback corner of AGS until you find that you can't go further because it's full of dirt or if it's been cleaned escape about halfway up the layback by stepping right to the smooth face with blocky cracks above. Make your way up until you get to the tree in the crack and move right to corner. Follow corner to top, tree belay. Moderate protection.

A full height of Maiden Wing. Starts well right of AGS, below the small tree on the cliff face. Move up to the small overhang, traverse right beneath the tree then up the small overhang and onto the slab. Head straight up to the large overhang and pull through the blocks at its right to top out.

A variety here makes for great climbing. My favourite climb at Maidenwell. Starts at beginning of the ledge that is above the water. Mantle the large-flake/small-ledge, reach the jug at right then proceed up the crack to the belay ledge. A bolt belay is at the back of the ledge. No protection for the cruxy start, then good protection to finish.

Parallel cracks. Make your way out onto the ledge above the water and line up the parallel cracks, start at their right. Execute a few moves, positioning left, then head directly up the parallel cracks. A bolt belay is at the back of the ledge. Good protection.

Bring on the bulge. Start the the she oak tree and head up the little corner, go left past the old chain then straight up to breach the bulge.

Do the diamond. Starts on top of the protruding triangular block. Head straight up through the diamond shape in the cracks.

Engrossing little edges. A contrived line, situated alongside Diamond Dave. Just keep right of the diamond shape in the cracks and head directly up the tiny edges.

A narrow, little 'cave' that that goes in a few metres. The left wall shows promise but the right wall should be avoid due to a number of loose and insecure rocks.

Sit start with left hand on crimp at arete and right hand in slot a little higher. Go up and top out at highest point just outside cave roof.

Starting from just in front of the rock in the middle of the cave, sit start with hand above in the crack, then top out the middle of the roof. Don't dab on the right wall.

Same start as Up the Web, but moving over into the top out for Silky Strand.

Sit start with hands in small pocket bellow main ledge. Makes for a tricky start into the mantle and easy top out.

Start at the left side of the ledge. Sit start into a traverse to top out at the right arete.