Ascents in The Ramparts

Opening another project.

20 yr anniversary since its first ascent

IF short grab the nipplE

Douglas led this pitch

Had a shot while Dan was on it, Technical and sustained, Will definately be back for this one.

Now that is a route I can get behind! Burly, steep crack-fu leading into intense face climbing. Best I have done at Moonarie to date. Ascent with gear in place.

With gear in i would grade it low end 27.

Mega mega mega. 5th lap (including my original ground-up epic attempt). V6 crack boulder, steep fingerlocking, hyper-techo thin crux, then oodles of aesthetic technical face climbing and slabbing on gear. Something of a dream route as it ticks all the boxes.

Incredible, felt impossible after the initial ground up effort however I managed to pull it out of the bag a lot quicker than expected. Absolutely mega, cut loose on double handjams to start leads to an awesome thin crack sequence followed by delicate crimping and then the hyper-stressful headwall finale! Not quite my favourite moon route (Durban and JLMP still win) however in terms of movement alone it probably takes the cake! Some of the raddest moves I've done on rock. Kung fu crack!

Kung Fu Crack! Endless fun questing up the wall.

2nd attempt

xxxposure.... 2nd shot

Followed Stuart Williams, fantastic, good pro

initially I led but 1st hold snapped off plowing me into slab below and chiselling a postage stamp sized piece of flesh from my knee!! A bit off-putting.

Unfortunately our last climb of the trip Managed to work out the crux on the second pitch, but didn't have a chance to try it properly. Should be able to do it another time. Bailed at top of second pitch

Cool moves and position up the steep roof section. Bailed after the second pitch after I got spooked from snapping a few holds and footers off.

Has to be one of the best pitches in oz

Red point with gear in. I can appreciate the status of the route but can't say I really rate steep slabs. 80m rope gets you down comfortably.

Flashed to the last bolt (3m from the anchor) with Emils gear and epic beta stream, but bungled the final gr23 gritstone arete section. I poured a Lot of desperate energy into the flash attempt, and didnt want to give it another shot. Briefly powerful past the 2nd bolt, then oodles of runout, cryptic, stressful gritstone slabbing to the anchor. This is a VERY different route with gear and chalk on it, from the true chalkless ground-up effort.

Free from above the 2nd bolt to the top (33m) with 1 point of aid at the start of the route. A mega classic route guarded by a V6+ start. I could do the start move sometimes, but never linked it. Above it, radical steep face climbing on trad with a punchy face-crux, and beautiful, aesthetic rock. The sort of climbing I adore.

Excellent suggestion from JT to combine these routes. Makes for a great pitch of pulling hard. Loved this route, although SM has to be the most sandbagged 24 thus far. As a route this would be solid 26 IMO.

Wish we got on this earlier in the trip with fresh arms. As the name implies, endless flowing moves to the chains. Stiff problem off the deck but the crux for me was the mid point roof to gain head wall. The business is up top with so many small boulder problems between break lines. Did all the moves and linked in 3. Psyched to get back on this one.

Equipped this rig with the boys towards the end of or last day. Words can't even describe the insane pitch of climbing, nails bouldery start through some roofs, leads to some strenuous face climbing on perfect rock in an outrageous position

Probably the best climb I’ve ever done, super sustained technical climbing in an outrageous position that keeps you working until the very last move, highly exposed with the occasional runout to keep you excited. Blew the top arete sequence twice before finally getting to the top, a journey to say the least

Fell off gaining the headwall just didn’t have enough juice to try again

Difficult for the vertically challenged. Note to self: come back and find a way