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Routes in Far Crag

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Showing all 72 routes.

Grade Route Gear style Popularity Crag
16 Asgard

Follow the flake in the centre of the first wall left of the descent route.

Trad 15m Morialta
12 Sheoak Corner

Start: Start from the olive tree. Up the open corner. Great introductory route.

FA: Mike Waite, Mike Ashton & Terry Prime, 1968

Trad 15m Morialta
18 Illequipt

Climb the wall left of Al Sirrat, starting at a small arete. At half height, step L into the crack.

Trad 14m Morialta
15 Shedidit

Lace the crack up with cams and nuts. Has a nice move just before topping out.

Start: Climb the vertical crack just right of bung wall.

FA: David Moriarty, Stuart Fishwick & Christine Shedley, 1968

Trad 13m Morialta
15 Lords Prayer

Worth its grade for the start and some nice bridging moves up the corner.

Start: Up the left hand corner to the right of 'Shewoodenduit'.

Trad 17m Morialta
17 R Resurrection

Crux is essential unprotected, not a good climb for a grade 17 leader

Start: Start at the boulder and make a nice move to gain the V - corner.

Trad 14m Morialta
16 Golgotha

Climb the groove to a ramp below the roof. Over the roof and follow the crack.

FA: Stuart Fishwick, George Adams & John Dutton, 1970

Trad 15m Morialta
22 Barad Dur

Swing up the steep juggy wall immediately left of Eternal Damnation's undercut arete past a big rattly block to a ledge. Step right and go up to the roof. Now make a cramped step back left past a bolt onto an undercut wall to reach the base of the crack. Straight up the crack.

FA: Stuart Fishwick & Richard Horn, 1970

Mixed trad 20m, 1 Morialta
20 Bung RHF

The most common way up the wall. Follow 'Bung Original' but do not move back L. Finish up the face between the crack and arete.

FA: Unknown

Trad 13m Morialta
8 Cinch

Ledges and large cracks on the R of the asgard wall. The groove through the overhang is awkward.

Trad 14m Morialta
15 Arev

FA: 2006

Trad 14m Morialta
20 X Bung Original

"Original" in that it was the first variant on the wall to go free.

Climb 'Bung Direct' to below the crux, step R, make a move up and then back L to the crack.

FA: "Hot" Henry Barber, 1975

Trad 13m Morialta
23 Pizazz

The face on the left of the 'Barad Dur' wall, avoiding the corner. Climb on crimps following the line of bolts up the face.

Start: You can begin as for 'Barad Dur' or from directly below the route proper.

Mixed trad 21m, 4 Morialta
19 A Quiet Chat

Start up Illequipt Left Side and then move up and R into the Illequipt crack.

Trad 13m Morialta
15 Tai-o-Toshi

Start: Over the bulge 1 metre right of 'Golgotha'. Up to the ledge right of the nose. Head up the groove just right of the arete.

FA: Mike Waite & Mike Ashton, 1968

Trad 15m Morialta
12 Pedagogue

(P) The curving left facing corner with a steep start. The most popular climb at this end of the crag. "Rock Climbing Around Adelaide"

FA: Mike Waite, Mike Ashton & Dave McNamara, 1968

Trad 20m Morialta
19 Shewoodenduit

Start: Follow Barrud Dur to the roof, then nip back right under this to a crack, which is climbed.

FA: David Moriarty & Mike Waite, 1968

Trad 20m Morialta
8 Al Sirrat

The obvious arete. Not well protected.

Trad 14m Morialta
23 X Bung Direct

The central crack. The first (aided) route up the wall took 16 years before it went free.

FA: Richard Horn & Stuart Fishwick (A3), 1968

FFA: Most likely Mike Law-Smith, 1984

Trad 13m Morialta
20 R The Crunge

Climb 'Illequipt' to half height, then continue straight up the thin crack. The Illequipt crack and the arete are off limits.

Trad 14m Morialta
22 Cioch

“Up the wall Right of RESURRECTION to a squatting rest beneath the Roof, Step left , Clip a bolt - Then fight Up to the nipple on the arete. Finish up the HAND CRACK. There are variants but the above mentioned is most popular “ Rock climbing around Adelaide. George Adams , John Dutton (14M3) 1970 TR Jim Olsen 20.10.74 FFLA Henry Barber 15.4.75 (19) FFLA Rod Young 18.9.79 (22)

Trad 14m Morialta
18 Sheoak Arete

The arete just right of Sheoak Corner

FA: Rodger Alldritt, 1975

FFA: John Marshal, 1979

Trad 15m Morialta
16 Ob-la-di

The central line on the wall, taking care not to fall astride the sharp blade. Fortunately the protection is adequate. "Rock Climbing Around Adelaide"

FA: Mike Waite & Graham Hill, 1968

Trad 17m Morialta
17 Road Show
Trad 14m Morialta
16 Asgard Right Side

Stay R of the crack for holds and protection. The acronym was Mark's idea.

FA: Paul Badenoch, Mark Witham, Chris Oerman & David Newell, 2009

Trad 15m Morialta
21 Klutz Connection
Trad 14m Morialta
22 Legato Fae

The wall left of Asgard. Not allowed to use Asgard's holds.

FA: Tony Barker & Paul Gray

Trad 14m Morialta
21 X Bung Totally Right

Climb the R side of the wall, the crack and arete are off limits.

FA: TR Colin Reece, 1979

Trad 13m Morialta
23 Illequipt Left Side

The black streak L of Illequipt, using that route for protection only.

Trad 14m Morialta
19 Pulpit

FA: George Adams, 1969

Trad 15m Morialta
17 Alms
Trad 15m Morialta
13 Hieroglyph

Start: The corner bounding the left side of Pizzaz wall is guarded by an overhanging start.

FA: Mike Waite & Mike Ashton, 1968

Trad 21m Morialta
15 Shemademedoit

Wall with thin crack between Tai-o-Toshi and Ob-La-Di. Wouldn't be a FA, this may flush out the truth.

FA: Paul Badenoch & Cynthia Palfreyman, 2005

Trad 15m Morialta
19 Tabraj
Trad 14m Morialta
7 Sunout

The corner R of 'Shedidit'

Trad Morialta
4 Mud in Yer Eye
Trad 14m Morialta
13 Export Quality

Start: The grooved arete left of 'Pedagogue' is gained directly.

FA: Colin Reece & Eddie Ozols, 1975

Trad 21m Morialta
25 Mad Germans By Torchlight

The face between Eternal Damnation's Arete and Lord's Prayer's Corner. Both of these routes are off limits. Begin as for Eternal Damnation and then continue up the face avoiding the arete of Eternal Damnation and corner of Lord's Prayer.

FA: Adam Clay, 1991

Trad 18m Morialta
14 Joseph
Trad 14m Morialta
24 Klutz
Trad 13m Morialta
26 Elusive Muff

Originally mistaken for Simon Wilson's 'LAT', which itself was given the alternative name by Matt Adams back in the day. This name was retained for historical purposes. This has now been modified slightly (2020) to cause offense to muffins, as opposed to hand warmers (you can't please everyone). It had been TR'd by Stu Williams back in the '90s,but was followed by a lead ascent by Steve in November 2014. Start as for Barad Dur to ledge. Tip toe left to directly below the first bolt on Pizazz. Trend up a line right of the Pizazz bolts to a horizontal level with the 3rd. A powerful undercling move leads to crimps and an increasingly run out crux section with gear (0.75 cam) awaiting near the top. Employ a good belayer.

FFA: Steve Kelly, 5 Nov 2014

Sport 18m, 3 Morialta
12 The Spanish Inquisition

Around R of the descent.

FA: 1979

Trad 12m Morialta
11 Handle With Care

Start: Climb the middle of the wall between 'Do Not Drop' and 'This Way Up' to reach a narrow projecting buttress. Finish up the front of this.

FA: Mike Waite & Mike Ashton, 1968

Trad 18m Morialta
7 This Way Up

The easy corner and wide chimney

FA: Mike Waite & Mike Ashton, 1968

Trad 18m Morialta
28 Locust Abortion Technician

Start as for Barad Dur. Once on the ledge step left so that you are below and 1m left of Barad Dur's crackline and climb directly up, staying within a metre of the crack. If you're on route the first bolt of Pizazz can be clipped prior to heading up but then you are relying on side runners in Barad Dur.

FA: Simon Wilson, 1998

Mixed trad 20m, 1 Morialta
18 Levee Breaks

The rock could break too. Up the overhanging right side of the arete right of Pedagogue to a ledge. Continue up the arete. "Rock Climbing Around Adelaide"

FA: Rod Young & Gary Scott, 1979

Trad 20m Morialta
12 Garden Wall

A tough start with some suss rock leads to a ledge below a short corner with a wide crack. Overcome this and another tricky corner to finish.

Start: The centre of the wall between 'Aries' and do Not Drop.

FA: AUMC, 1960

Trad 17m Morialta
24 Bung Left

Wall left of Bung Direct, staying out of the corner and not touching the central crack.

FA: TR Kim Karrigan, 1979

FFA: Nick Neagle, 1988

Trad 13m Morialta
12 Aries

Start: The vertical crack 1 metre right of the arete has an interesting first few moves.

FA: Mike Ashton, Terry Prime & Mike Waite., 1968

Trad 17m Morialta
17 The Unnamed Seventeen
Trad 13m Morialta
17 Shewoodenduit LHF
Trad 20m Morialta
13 Use No Hooks

Start: Climb steeply and directly to gain a corner left of 'Shonarch'.

FA: 1973

Trad 21m Morialta
19 Sermon
Trad 17m Morialta
12 Sentry Box
Trad 11m Morialta
23 Eternal Damnation
Trad 18m Morialta
16 Fragile and Useless

Beigin beneath a broad blade right of fragile. Climb directly up to it and continue past a sheok

FA: Mike James, 1975

Trad 22m Morialta
17 Shonarch

(S) A steep, scrappy start leads to an arete and the front of the tower above. "Rock Climbing Around Adelaide"

FA: Richard Horn, 1970

FFA: Colin Reece, 1976

Trad 21m Morialta
14 Gunga Din

The corner on the right end of the red wall. "Rock Climbing Around Adelaide"

FA: Mike Waite, 1968

Trad 18m Morialta
8 Do Not Drop

The shallow left facing corner and the square cut corner above. "Rock Climbing Around Adelaide"

FA: Mike Waite & Mike Ashton, 1968

Trad 17m Morialta
18 Fragile

(F) The protection is reasonable, but take note of the name. Sustained climbing up to the ledge then short wall to finish. "Rock Climbing Around Adelaide"

FA: Colin Reece & Mike James

FFA: Gary Scott, 1979

Trad 21m Morialta
15 Tai Otoshi Direct Start

Up crack 1m R of Golgotha to base of rib. Place good #1 cam. Straight up rib to stance at start of Tai Otoshi's groove. Finish up that route.

FFA: Paul Badenoch & Mark Witham, 2012

Trad 15m Morialta
6 Yggdrasil
Trad 13m Morialta
6 Cork

The unappealing corner left of the Bung wall.

Trad 9m Morialta
13 Mossy Edge

The steep arete left of 'Aries' gives way to ledge hopping.

FA: Colin Reece & Eddie Ozols, 1975

Trad 17m Morialta
8 Thrash Piggies

"The front of the little buttress at the very left of the cliff. The crux is getting through the blackberries." Rock Climbing Around Adelaide"

FA: Erik Lock & Nick Neagle, 1991

Trad 12m Morialta
16 The Scenic

Full traverse of Far Crag!

Trad 150m Morialta
18 Sermon RHF
Trad 17m Morialta
6 Tequila

The unnattractive flaring groove left of Vug. "Rock Climbing Around Adelaide"

FA: Mike Waite, Mike Ashton & Craig Hiill, 1968

Trad 16m Morialta
4 Vug

Up to a bushy ledge near the left end of the cliff then the corner on the right. "Rock Climbing Around Adelaide"

FA: Craig Hill, Mike Ashton & Graham Hill, 1968

Trad 16m Morialta
7 Drop Dead
Trad Morialta
19 Sentry Box RHV
Trad 10m Morialta
V4 Far Crag Eliminate Traverse
Boulder Morialta

Showing all 72 routes.

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