Hades Mostly Sport climbing 5 routes in cliff

A unique experience, surrounded by surging water and a long way from the sunshine. Steep face climbing on the east facing wall at the back of the cave, past the pool where water pulses in through the chasm from Inferno. Take a head torch.

Access: Head out as if going to the Paradiso, but instead of dropping down to the Paradiso continue for 10 mins more up along the top of the cliff. A faint track marks the way. Bolts are located on slabs above Hades on the Paradiso side, facing Cape Raoul (cairned) and are just as the cliff reaches the highest point. All belays fully bolted. One 60m rope is enough to rap both pitches. Ample bolts provide an easy escape if need be. 1. 30m. 25. Tricky sequence off the belay leads up the face on slopey holds (crux). After no-hands rest head R and up to DBB (fully bolted). 2. 30m. 19. Bolts lead up the face till the crack accepts gear. Continue to top. Rack: 14 quick draws (a couple should be alpine draws). Singles of .5, .75, 1 Camalot. Doubles of 2 & 3 Camalot.

An out-there location! This climb weaves through the awesome ground above the cave of Hades (the huge cave arch you can look into from the right end of the Paradiso cliffs. Can be done as 22 with some bolt pulling. Walk to the top of the Paradiso and then head up hill and over the top on a small cairned track. From here you can either walk around the back or rap from the anchors to the base of the route. See the access section for GPS co-ordinates. 1. 15m 20. Ascend the interesting face to the belay on top of the pillar. 2. 35m 23. Continue up to the over lap and once over this traverse L and up to belay on large ledge. 3. 15m 25. (Sting in the tail pitch). Climb the interesting water washed over hanging wall above to exit to the R of the roof. Gear Required: Double Ropes, 15 quick draws, helmets and a #05 friend for pitch 2 if you want.