The East Peak of Mt. Barney, even though this isn't the true peak of Mt. Barney (the West Peak is), it is more often visited due to its accessibility.
To reach the East Peak itself, the best trails are found via the "South-East Ridge" and "Logan's Ridge".
If you are looking to scare yourself climbing on the face, it is best approached by first hiking the South-East Ridge and descending once you reach the obvious, large bivy clearing 250m before the summit. From here, bushbash downhill to the north and towards the east face, which lies just out of sight. Once here, either descend via a 30m abseil or 10 minutes of bush bashing and scrambling.
Once on the landing, bushbash north through scrub to reach the East Face.
The following is an excerpt from an old Mt Barney Guide (linked below):
"This impressive rock wall, perhaps the highest and most extensive in South East Queensland, had always presented an obvious, though intimidating challenge. Regarded by bushwalkers, who get a superb view of the wall on their way up Barney via Logan's ridge as "impossible", it was not really set foot on until 1960 when Ron Cox, Grahame Hardy, and Basil Yule abseiled down the face (roughly on what is now the East Face Route). In doing so they spent a night on the wall. Later, Pat Conaghan did a recconoitre of at least the first pitch; and in April 1966 John Tillack and Ted Cais did the first five pitches. Barely a fortnight later, John returned and led the successful first ascent, and so the label of impossibility was dispelled once and for all."
42 years later, the East Face of Mt Barney was looked at from a different perspective, and after a massive effort involving a generator, supposedly hundreds of metres of extension cord, over 100 bolts, and rightfully pissed off park rangers, the infamous adventure sport multi-pitch "The Governor" was born, giving us the longest sport multipitch in Queensland.
Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)
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theCrag.com is a free guide for rock climbing areas all over the world, collaboratively edited by keen rock climbers, boulderers and other nice folks.You can log all your routes, connect and chat with other climbers and much more...» go exploring, » learn more or » ask us a questionAuthor(s): Jimmy Blackhall & David Jefferson
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Hidden within the ordinary people of Queensland there exists a tight-knit community of scabby knuckles, grazed knees, massive forearms and iron-clad wills. This guidebooks seeks to shed light on this community and blocks of choice with all the information, skills and knowledge to open the door for you to explore all the bouldering that Queensland has to offer.
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Date: 2018
ISBN: 9780958079068
A few years ago there was basically Frog Buttress and Coolum. Since then there has been more development than Barangaroo and South East Queensland should be on any climbers radar no matter what your style. Except ice climbing, definitely no ice climbing. But over 1250 routes with hard sport, multipitches and quality trad to make a great trip.
★★★ Logan's Ridge 3 - IMG20190320081438.jpg
Bryn Norris on ★★ The Governor 22 - IMG_BEB2C51F4897-1.jpeg
East Peak - Barney - East Face
East Peak - Logan's Ridge (2).jpg
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