★★ Leaning Peak North Face Route 14

Grade context: AU
Length: 410m
Pitches: 7
Ascents: 7

TRAD

Access: Mt. Barney closure 15th - 25th April 2024

https://parks.des.qld.gov.au/park-alerts/23966

See warning details and discuss

Created 16 days ago

description

The climb starts at the 750m contour line about 200m up the right hand gully which slopes diagonally right across the face and intersects Leaning Ridge. This starting point is below a hanging rock and right of an overhanging lip. The start of "Chockstone Gully" can be found about half an hour above Barney Waterfall where Moonlight Slabs eases briefly to a series of open, low angled expansive slabs.

The climb is a long adventure route, with classy slab climbing leading to the summit headwall. Single rack will suffice, takes mostly medium cams. Despite the grade, this is a remote climb and good routefinding skills and good headspace for long runouts are a must.

Slab

Route history

25 Feb 1968	First ascent: C. Meadows, M. Meadows & J. Shera The longest trad route in Queensland (and probably the longest in Australia at the time of the FA). Climbed with minimal gear (a dozen pitons and slings, and a few biners) and powered by red cordial. Michael Meadows had his first (and only) lead fall a couple of pitches away from the summit. After bivvying on a ledge, John Shera had to take over the pointy end (his first time leading!) for the last couple of pitches, where the terrain steepens and rock quality deteriorates. First female ascent- 2003, Wendy and Katie Steele. M. Meadows (2015), The Living Rock.

25 Feb 1968

First ascent: C. Meadows, M. Meadows & J. Shera

The longest trad route in Queensland (and probably the longest in Australia at the time of the FA). Climbed with minimal gear (a dozen pitons and slings, and a few biners) and powered by red cordial. Michael Meadows had his first (and only) lead fall a couple of pitches away from the summit. After bivvying on a ledge, John Shera had to take over the pointy end (his first time leading!) for the last couple of pitches, where the terrain steepens and rock quality deteriorates.

First female ascent- 2003, Wendy and Katie Steele.

M. Meadows (2015), The Living Rock.

Warnings

12 Apr 2024	Warning Access: Mt. Barney closure 15th - 25th April 2024

Location

Lat/Lon: -28.26570, 152.69098

Grade citation

14	Assigned grade
13	Terry Svingen

Seasonality

Quality

Mega Classic
Classic
Very Good
Good
Average
Don't Bother
Crap

Overall quality 67 from 7 ratings.

Tick Types

Onsight	3	3
Red point	1	1
Tick	1	1

Comment keywords

dodgy interesting epic short cruisy pockets crux classy awesome good enjoyable super fun perfect great nice

Selected Guidebooks more Hide

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Author(s): Jimmy Blackhall & David Jefferson

Date: 2021

ISBN: 9377779499658

Hidden within the ordinary people of Queensland there exists a tight-knit community of scabby knuckles, grazed knees, massive forearms and iron-clad wills. This guidebooks seeks to shed light on this community and blocks of choice with all the information, skills and knowledge to open the door for you to explore all the bouldering that Queensland has to offer.

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South East Queensland Climbing Guide

Author(s): Simon Carter

Date: 2018

ISBN: 9780958079068

A few years ago there was basically Frog Buttress and Coolum. Since then there has been more development than Barangaroo and South East Queensland should be on any climbers radar no matter what your style. Except ice climbing, definitely no ice climbing. But over 1250 routes with hard sport, multipitches and quality trad to make a great trip.

Buy

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