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The Dark Side All Trad climbing 11 routes in cliff

  • Grade context: AU
  • Ascents: 9
11
AU
1013151719

Seasonality

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Access issues inherited from Mt Hope

This area is in a nature reserve and contains some rare and endangered flora and fauna. It may look pretty scrappy, but please take care and look after this area if you visit.

Approach

From the car-park below Suicide Rock, take the track heading west through the locked gate. Follow this around as it curves south and you will see the wall up on your left once you get behind Suicide Rock. Wander up the gully.

Ethic inherited from Mt Hope

Trad as well as bolted sport routes. There is a mix of carrots and fixed hangers. Glue in bolts without fixed hangers are preferred as they reduce the visibility of fixed hardware.

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Routes

Add route(s) Add topo Reorder Bulk edit Convert grades
Grade Route
1
16 Russian Roulette Trad 7m

Left most block. Left side of the face.

2
18 Raw Hide Trad 7m

Right side of the same face.

3
16 The Moon Mixed trad 12m, 2

Next block to the right. Up the right side of the left arete.

4
18 Skywalker Mixed trad 12m, 2

Gymnastic start up the middle of the block.

5
16 Wings Of Steel Mixed trad 11m, 1

Right arete starting just in the gully.

6
20 Aces High Trad 10m

Easy looking flake crack on the left wall of the gully. No bridging.

7
14 Chalk And Cheese Trad 10m

Jam crack 1m right of Aces High.

8
19 Realign This Tim Day Trad 10m

Vegetated diagonal crack on the main face.

9
20 ★★ Wicked Sensation Mixed trad 12m, 4

Follow the carrot bolts up the middle of the wall. Single bolt anchor backed up with trad.

10
15 Slave To The Grind Mixed trad 7m, 1

Right arete

11
10 R2-D2 Mixed trad 8m, 2

Start 1m right of Slave To The Grind. Slab climbing diagonally up right.

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Selected Guidebooks more Hide

Sublimb Climbs

Author(s): Lindorff, Goding & Hodgson

Date: 2011

ISBN: 9780646529387

Get ready to fully experience the rock climbing scene in Victoria with Sublime Climbs, a comprehensive guidebook authored by Kevin Lindorff, Josef Goding, and Jarrod Hodgson. This full-color, 380-page book covers the best climbing locations in the region, including Mt Arapiles, Mt Buffalo, and the Grampians. It features descriptions of over 700 routes, topographic maps, and breathtaking images. Whether you're a seasoned pro or new to the sport, Sublime Climbs has everything you need to make the most of your climbing experience in Victoria and experience all of it's classic routes.

Buy
ⓘ
RockGUIDE: Victoria

Author(s): Chris Baxter & Glenn Tempest

Date: 1994

ISBN: 0646167308

A Guide to selected rockclimbs at Mt Arapiles,the Grampians and Mt Buffalo

Buy
ⓘ

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Fri 28 Apr
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