Grade | Route | Gear style | Quality | |||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
Wed 6th May 2015 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Blackheath Area Shipley Upper War Babies Wall | ||||||
20 | ★ Scramble Syndrome - with Sammi | 20m | ★ Good | |||
A bit more interesting than some of the other things around this grade. A bit techy.
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Wed 6th May 2015 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Blackheath Area Shipley Upper Sandwiches Wall | ||||||
22 | ★★ These People are Sandwiches - with Sammi | 15m | ★★ Very Good | |||
First climbed this 15 years ago. I kinda thought something may have broken at the first roof? There's a bit of a scar on the right.
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Tue 5th May 2015 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Leura Sublime Point West Face (Main Area) Middle Cliffs Theory of Negativity Wall | ||||||
20 | ★★★ Theory of Negativity - with Sammi | 22m, 9 | ★★★ Classic | |||
The route that broke the drought (6 months off rock), and first route since moving to the Mountains. It felt good
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23 | ★★ The Cramps - with Sammi | 22m, 10 | ★ Good | |||
After a fierce start, things calm down. Squeezed in between work meetings.
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Sat 13th Sep 2014 - Urbenville | ||||||
Spot X | ||||||
27 28 | ★★★ Toxic Shock Syndrome - with Duncan | 15m, 8 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Re-sent in it's v2.0 configuration. These routes evolve.
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Sat 6th Sep 2014 - Urbenville | ||||||
Crossroads | ||||||
25 | ★ Geryon - with Duncan | 40m, 18 | ★ Good | |||
Used this as a warm up one morning which was actually sort of doable, because it was bouldery to a rest, bouldery to a rest, repeated.
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29 | FA ★ Leviathan - with Duncan | 45m | ★ Good | |||
FFA. Sent first go of the day. This is the most difficult route I've ever had to grade. It's 24/5 for 35m, then a V8? morpho boulder problem for 10m. Stuffed if I know, certainly the hardest moves on the cliff.
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27 | ★★ Banyan - with Duncan | 40m | ★★ Very Good | |||
No dramas on shot #2. Punchy moves I really liked.
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Sun 24th Aug 2014 - Urbenville | ||||||
Crossroads | ||||||
23 | ★ Lorch - with Duncan | 18m | ★ Good | |||
Some really cool holds on this one - very solid rock generally. Not easy.
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Sun 24th Aug 2014 - Urbenville | ||||||
Spot X | ||||||
27 | FA ★ Foxy Cleopatra - with Sam | 17m | ★ Good | |||
FFA. Did this one in the rain, top headwall was wet. There's a bouldery crux throw that really gave me curry, so this might be harder, especially for shorties.
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Sun 17th Aug 2014 - Urbenville | ||||||
Spot X | ||||||
31 | FA ★★★ Vixen - with Duncan | 20m, 9 | ★★★ Classic | |||
FFA. Boom! 8th day on it, 21? goes. Very enjoyable to climb on. The movement is top shelf. As for the grade, yes, it might be harder. Or not.
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Sat 9th Aug 2014 - Urbenville | ||||||
Spot X | ||||||
24 | FA ★ Extra Bolt - with Sam | 22m, 11 | ★ Good | |||
FFA. A bit of fun to make Extra Shot harder. Traverse the flake. Go on, do it.
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Sun 27th Jul 2014 - Urbenville | ||||||
Crossroads | ||||||
26 | Typhon | 35m | Average | |||
This is my least favourite of the routes on the wall, only because it kicked my arse and the crux is really hard for me!
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25 | ★★ Cthulhu (full version) | 45m, 24 | ★★ Very Good | |||
One of the cleanest lines on the cliff thanks to Reido's work ethic. Good job dude!
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Sun 6th Jul 2014 - Urbenville | ||||||
Crossroads | ||||||
25 | Fenris | 35m | ★ Good | |||
Super varied. The corner section down low is cool.
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Sat 28th Jun 2014 - Urbenville | ||||||
Crossroads | ||||||
25 | ★ Balor | 35m, 16 | ★ Good | |||
This one felt 25/6. Second ascent.
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24 | FA ★ Chimera - with Sam | 35m, 16 | ★ Good | |||
FFA. This has had a few ascents now. One of the easier routes on the wall.
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Sun 22nd Jun 2014 - Urbenville | ||||||
Crossroads | ||||||
26 | ★★ Monster - with Duncan | 40m, 18 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Flash placing the gear. I thought this was 25 at the time, could very well be 26 though.
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26 | Garm - with Duncan | 40m, 18 | ★ Good | |||
Thought this was 25 as well. Really hard to know with these routes. They're all similar.
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Sat 21st Jun 2014 - Urbenville | ||||||
Crossroads | ||||||
26 | ★★ Giant - with Duncan | 38m, 16 | ★★ Very Good | |||
This has some great rock and you really need to climb. More sustained than most Crossroads routes. [3]
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24 | ★ Gilling - with Duncan | 35m | ★ Good | |||
Second go.
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Sun 15th Jun 2014 - Urbenville | ||||||
Crossroads | ||||||
25 | FA ★ Gryphon | 40m | ★ Good | |||
FFA. This is cool. It has a ton of big rests with steep jugging in between. The top is mucho exciting. Needs a second ascent.
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30 | FA ★★★ Behemoth | 40m, 18 | ★★★ Classic | |||
FFA. Climbed this in long pants and a jumper, so it must have been good conditions. Very hard to grade this one. It's similar to One Hit To The Body. Such cool go-for-it moves up top. Lots of big falls.
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Sun 1st Jun 2014 - Urbenville | ||||||
Crossroads | ||||||
25 | ★ Hulking | 40m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Just barely squeaked this flash in. Was gibbering on the topout
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Sun 25th May 2014 - Urbenville | ||||||
Crossroads | ||||||
26 | FA ★★ Banshee | 45m | ★★ Very Good | |||
FFA. This is a big beast which took me a couple of goes - Duncan later onsighted, awesome effort.
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Sun 25th May 2014 - Urbenville | ||||||
Spot X | ||||||
28 | FA ★ Extremely Unseemly | 15m, 7 | ★ Good | |||
FFA. Climbed on the 1 year Spot X anniversary. A boulder problem which requires some pounce.
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Sat 24th May 2014 - Urbenville | ||||||
Vesuvius | ||||||
23 | ★★ Lava Lamp | 27m | ||||
JJ's route. I was a bit wigged out for the first third climbing this as a warm up. Not the bolting. Just feels a bit insecure. Leany-offy.
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29 | FA ★★ Vulcan Mind Meld | 20m | ★★ Very Good | |||
FFA. Pure vertical, ultra technical. This is the first time I can remember my abs and legs failing on a vertical route. 4 or 5 days. Thanks to Glenn for encouraging me to persist with this thing.
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18 | ★ Pliny The Elder | 22m, 10 | ★ Good | |||
Sneaker rematch.
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11 | ★ Carbon Footprint | 25m, 8 | ||||
Hey Erik this is good eh? Sneaker run. Toby (8yo) punched this out today.
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Wed 23rd Apr 2014 - Point Perpendicular | ||||||
Seaside Windjammer Wall | ||||||
23 | ★★ Last Man Standing | 25m, 5 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Don't be so hard on yourself Monty - this route is as good as any of the others. Nor does it feel squeezed in to me. I notice people are avoiding the grade 23 finish by going right to the anchors on SS Minnow.
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17 | ★★★ Grey Mist | 30m | ★★★ Mega Classic | |||
I like to do this route once every 11 years. See you again in 2025.
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Tue 22nd Apr 2014 - Point Perpendicular | ||||||
Seaside Windjammer Wall | ||||||
26 | ★★ Seamstress | 30m | ★★ Very Good | |||
A searing, white, marble seam which splits off the old classic Windjammer, at half height. I preplaced the gear (tiny wires) like the first ascent team. It's certainly doable placing the gear, and doable to onsight - for a trad gun
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22 | ★★ Shooting The Breeze | 23m, 10 | ★★ Very Good | |||
This was amazing - another win from the Phillips crew. I would have rated it a classic if the anchor was two bolts lower at the obvious finish.
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16 | ★★ Man Overboard | 26m | ★★★ Classic | |||
This old beast of a corner climbs sooo much better than it looks. Wow, super cool.
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Sun 20th Apr 2014 - Point Perpendicular | ||||||
Seaside The Poop Deck | ||||||
25 | ★ Wide Awakening | 22m, 6 | ★ Good | |||
The sandy top section is incredibly tricky, technical and hard to read. Un-onsightable with no chalk? There's your challenge! [3]
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24 | ★★★ The Throne | 20m, 8 | ★★★ Classic | |||
Rapped down this to access the wall and thought it looked cool. It was!
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23 | ★★ I Once Was A Cyborg | 22m, 8 | ★★ Very Good | |||
You have to wrestle with a pebble. It's like a peanut. This would also be a tough read with no chalk on it.
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20 | ★★ Drifting Ashore | 22m, 8 | ★★★ Classic | |||
Super exposed and well worth doing - a real classic. The top is probably a bit too spicy if you're only leading 20.
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Sat 19th Apr 2014 - Point Perpendicular | ||||||
Seaside Windjammer Wall | ||||||
23 | ★★ Happy Go Lucky | 22m, 10 | Average | |||
You never like the ones you fall off. I didn't like this. Confusing down low thanks to bolt placements, and otherwise sharp and hard! [2]
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25 | ★★ I Have A Dream | 20m, 8 | ★★ Very Good | |||
The top of this was sketchy AS on the onsight. No chalk. Somehow got through. Killer!
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25 | ★★★ Vertical Romance | 30m, 11 | ★★★ Classic | |||
This totally made my day. Not a skerrick of chalk, pure onsight drop the clutch action with several "I'm off!" moments. Just awesome.
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21 | ★★ Not All There | 25m | ★★ Very Good | |||
This was really nice, not the best to warm up on as the start is quite hard.
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19 | ★★ Windjammer | 30m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Big wide crack action to finish the day. I felt bearded.
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24 | ★★ The Omen | 22m, 13 | ★★ Very Good | |||
This is the pound of flesh route, whippers galore.
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Fri 18th Apr 2014 - Point Perpendicular | ||||||
Seaside Windjammer Wall | ||||||
21 | ★★ Blowing In The Wind | 20m, 10 | ★★★ Classic | |||
This is awesome. The chalk indicates people wander around a bit. If you follow the obvious climbing, it's probably 20.
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19 | ★★ Drunk And Disorderly (Drunk & Disorderly) | 20m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Yes, very nice indeed.
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19 | ★★★ Icebird | 30m | ★★★ Classic | |||
Big trad action. Climbs so nicely for a trad route. Tons of big wires. Gets a bit old school up top.
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Thu 17th Apr 2014 - Urbenville | ||||||
Crossroads | ||||||
21 | FA Kongamato p1 | 20m | Don't Bother | |||
FFA. As part of full route FFA. This bottom pitch has a tricky start, and a fair bit of creaky rock to dance lightly over. If you can handle this, you're well prepared for the rest of Crossroads.
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24 | FA ★ Kongamato (full version) | 20m, 17 | ★★ Very Good | |||
FFA. The top corner is pure gold, like a harder version of Caritas. And just gets harder as you go. Tradlords will be at home. I've since added a long perma-sling to avoid some whimpering. Thanks to Henk for the anchor and top bolt!
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Sun 13th Apr 2014 - Urbenville | ||||||
Vesuvius | ||||||
22 | FA ★★ Joe Versus The Volcano - with Glenn | 20m | ★ Good | |||
FFA. A leany, cracky, slab thing. Some interesting tricky footwork down low.
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21 | FA ★★ People Of Vesuvius - with Glenn | 20m | ★★ Very Good | |||
FFA. This was a bit of a team effort. Sam and Glenn did some cleaning, and then I did more over a couple of days, and bolted. You wouldn't believe what this looked like before the cleaning. Some of the holds on this are about the closest you can come to holding a tufa without going to Bungonia or Europe. Will be the most popular route at the cliff I think.
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Sat 22nd Mar 2014 - Urbenville | ||||||
Crossroads | ||||||
27 | FA ★★ Wyvern - with Duncan | 45m, 20 | ★★ Very Good | |||
FFA. This blew my mind at the time as my first route on the cliff.
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Sat 1st Mar 2014 - Urbenville | ||||||
Vesuvius | ||||||
26 | ★★ Dark Days Ahead | 28m, 15 | ★★★ Classic | |||
On my earlier onsight attempt with JJ I fell after the last bolt which I am way more proud of than the actual send. This route kicks arse. It'll make you toss and turn at night. [2]
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Sat 8th Feb 2014 - Urbenville | ||||||
Vesuvius | ||||||
23 | FA ★★ Blowing Smoke | 25m | ★★★ Classic | |||
FFA. Placed all gear on lead. This was great, but as the only gear route at the cliff I don't imagine anyone will repeat it any time soon.
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Sat 1st Feb 2014 - Urbenville | ||||||
Vesuvius | ||||||
23 | FA ★★ Liquid Hot Magma - with Duncan | 17m | ★★ Very Good | |||
FFA. I can't remember much about this one but it's proving popular which is good.
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24 | FA ★★ Slumbering Giant - with Duncan | 17m | ★★★ Classic | |||
FFA. I really enjoyed this! Probably my pick of the routes on the Black Wall. This was my quickest-to-equip route of all time. 20 mins start to finish?
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20 | ★ Plinian Eruption - with Duncan | 25m, 9 | ★ Good | |||
This is a bit spacey!
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Sun 12th Jan 2014 - Urbenville | ||||||
Vesuvius | ||||||
24 | FA ★ Ashfall | 24m | ★ Good | |||
FFA. Another one I expected to have to do a few times which went first try. Leaning white corner. Might be the easiest 24 here?
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27 | FA ★★ 16,000 Dead - with JJ | 20m | ★★ Very Good | |||
FFA. Pretty cool, especially up high. Dunc smashed this out second go.
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Sat 11th Jan 2014 - Urbenville | ||||||
Vesuvius | ||||||
25 | FA ★ Herculaneum - with JJ | 23m | ★ Good | |||
FFA. Glue-in's. A portion of shitty rock at the top of the corner, but it's no big deal. The top is super cool and not easy. I expected to have to do a lot more cleaning but climbed it first go.
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Sat 4th Jan 2014 - Urbenville | ||||||
Vesuvius | ||||||
25 | FA ★★ Pompeii - with JJ | 27m, 14 | ★★★ Classic | |||
FFA. Yes, did the first ascent on the 41 degree day. Sauna training. Dunc reckoned this is one of the best 25's around.
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Mon 23rd Dec 2013 - Urbenville | ||||||
Vesuvius | ||||||
24 | FA ★★★ Pyroclastic - with Erik | 25m, 12 | ★★ Very Good | |||
FFA. First route done at the cliff. Seems to be giving people some grief. It's good though!
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Sat 28th Sep 2013 - Urbenville | ||||||
Spot X | ||||||
31 | FA ★★★ Dominatrix - with Nathan | 23m, 12 | ★★★ Mega Classic | |||
FFA. I was really psyched to get this done before heading overseas. It was getting hot at the end of September and I remember hanging in the kneebar watching the sweat drip off my forehead. Took a few weekends to get this together.
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Sat 7th Sep 2013 - Urbenville | ||||||
Spot X | ||||||
23 | ★★ Extra Shot | 18m, 9 | ★ Good | |||
Nice and popular moderate.
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30 | FA ★ Miss Sixty | 15m, 6 | ★ Good | |||
FFA. Bouldery and resistant climbing up a steep wall.
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Sat 31st Aug 2013 - Point Perpendicular | ||||||
The Lighthouse Centurion Area | ||||||
22 | ★★ Titan I Am | 25m, 10 | ★★★ Classic | |||
Finally! Super duper good, but I'm biased
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Sat 31st Aug 2013 - Point Perpendicular | ||||||
The Lighthouse Superliner Area | ||||||
23 | ★★ All Guns Blazing (Top pitch only) | 36m, 13 | ★★★ Classic | |||
Top pitch only (Monty's "23"). I was whistling happily, then the whistling turned to wailing. Hard crux I went up and down several times before grimly crimping through. Hard!
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Sat 31st Aug 2013 - Point Perpendicular | ||||||
The Lighthouse Lighthouse Lower Atmosfear Wall | ||||||
24 | ★★★ Atmosfear - with Aaron | 50m, 18 | ★★★ Classic | |||
Before Monty's wedding. Super long pitch (18 clips!) which gradually steepens. You will pump!
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Sun 25th Aug 2013 - Urbenville | ||||||
Spot X | ||||||
24 | ★★ Anasasis Xenophontis | 15m, 7 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Had seen a few moves on this prior. It's good and hard for the grade!
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29 | FA ★★ Extreme Makeover | 15m, 6 | ★ Good | |||
FFA. Another bouldery one.
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Sat 24th Aug 2013 - Urbenville | ||||||
Spot X | ||||||
21 | Anxious | 17m | ||||
No memory of this one. Repressed?
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21 | Felix On Crack | 25m | Don't Bother | |||
This wasn't remotely clean when I did it and was the loosest thing I've ever climbed and that's saying something. I do remember the top being quite good. Just needs attention.
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Sun 18th Aug 2013 - Urbenville | ||||||
Spot X | ||||||
20 | Outfox | 25m, 10 | Average | |||
Yes, this was terrifying, but has since been fixed with more bolts and better anchor placement.
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22 | ★ Bollox | 17m | ★ Good | |||
This one is pretty good.
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Sun 11th Aug 2013 - Urbenville | ||||||
Spot X | ||||||
22 | ★ X-Men Weekend | 12m, 6 | ★ Good | |||
Warm up
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22 | ★★ Expialidocious | 17m, 7 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Nice one E.
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Sat 3rd Aug 2013 - Urbenville | ||||||
Spot X | ||||||
24 | FA ★★★ Hot Sex | 35m, 14 | ★★★ Classic | |||
FFA. The crux on this seems to get a mixed response. I really like it!
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23 | FA ★★ Botox Betty | 12m, 6 | ★★ Very Good | |||
FFA. I think consensus now is that if you're a steep climber, this is 23. If not, it's definitely 24.
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Sat 27th Jul 2013 - Urbenville | ||||||
Spot X | ||||||
28 | FA ★★★ Epoxy Doxie | 15m, 8 | ★★★ Mega Classic | |||
FFA. This route is my cup of tea. 45 board climbing.
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27 | FA ★★★ Toxic Shock Syndrome | 15m, 8 | ★★ Very Good | |||
FFA. Near gassed myself on glue fumes while putting this up. Logan onsighted this in its v1.0 state.
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Sat 20th Jul 2013 - Urbenville | ||||||
Spot X | ||||||
23 | ★★ Sherlock Hemlock | 17m, 7 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Sent on the original X-Men weekend.
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22 | ★ X-Men Weekend | 12m, 6 | ★ Good | |||
Sent on the original X-Men weekend. Has since changed a lot as the flake continues to give of itself unto us. Neil's ground up bolting of this "one bolt at a time" was hilarious.
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Sat 6th Jul 2013 - Urbenville | ||||||
Spot X | ||||||
25 | FA ★★★ Tito Traverxa - with The X-Men | 28m, 13 | ★★★ Mega Classic | |||
FFA. The monster line of the crag. A journey.
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25 | FA ★ Flexion | 22m, 10 | Average | |||
FFA. This one is still worth doing, but not as nice as its neighbours.
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Thu 6th Jun 2013 - Urbenville | ||||||
Spot X | ||||||
21 | FA ★ Naughts And Crosses - with Sam and Glenn | 15m, 6 | ★ Good | |||
FFA. An interesting little warm up.
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Sun 31st Mar 2013 - Point Perpendicular | ||||||
The Lighthouse Rex Hunt's Area | ||||||
26 | ★★ Eviction Order - with Duncan | 15m, 3 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Brushed, chalked, pre-placed, 10mm dynabolts tightened up. Then sent packing.
|
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Sun 31st Mar 2013 - Point Perpendicular | ||||||
The Lighthouse Centurion Area | ||||||
21 | ★★ Australia's Hardest Climb - with Sam | 15m, 4 | Average | |||
Maybe I'll make the news!
|
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Sat 30th Mar 2013 - Point Perpendicular | ||||||
Seaside Windjammer Wall | ||||||
22 | ★★ Hot to Trot - with Erik | 23m, 11 | ★★ Very Good | |||
Chossy down low, but quite hard in bits up high with better rock. Would be 23 anywhere else.
|
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24 | ★★ Barracouta - with Erik | 30m, 4 | ★★★ Classic | |||
This was an old dog from years ago. Super insanely happy to NOT fall off the top. Ended up dynoing off tiny monos to the clifftop and just stuck it.
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24 | ★★ Hate Mail - with Neil | 25m, 5 | ★★★ Classic | |||
A Monty route, climbed with Monty. Some of the best rock around up high, pretty impressive. You have to jam a cam in a critical pod which is your handhold which I actually thought was cool. Don't be put off by the rusty U-bolts, they're fine. Needs some stainless mallions added to anchor.
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16 15 to 16 | ★ Beside the Seaside (She sells sea shells (pitch 3)) - with Johnny | 40m, 2 | Don't Bother | |||
"You'll be fine Sam! It's a 40m sport route. Take 20 quickdraws!" Actual bolt count = 2.
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Fri 29th Mar 2013 - Point Perpendicular | ||||||
The Lighthouse Red Riding Hood Area | ||||||
23 | ★ Sieze The Day - with Duncan | 28m | ★ Good | |||
This was pretty good, arms were a bit tired by this stage. 23/4?
|
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Fri 29th Mar 2013 - Point Perpendicular | ||||||
The Lighthouse Liquid Insanity Area | ||||||
22 | ★ Grandmas ta Flash - with Erik | 15m | Don't Bother | |||
This was one of the weirdest and maybe hardest routes of the day. Wacky. You could probably give this a miss.
|
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23 | ★★ Unorthodox Liasons - with Sam | 15m, 5 | ★★ Very Good | |||
I had to lunge for that edge. Some hard moves.
|
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Fri 29th Mar 2013 - Point Perpendicular | ||||||
The Lighthouse Red Riding Hood Area | ||||||
18 | ★★ Hooray for Hippies - with Sam | 28m | ★★ Very Good | |||
Retroing = popularity.
|
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23 | ★ Big Bad Wolf - with Sam | 20m | Average | |||
Hmm, never great to have your crux directly above an ankle breaking ledge. A bit scary.
|
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Fri 4th Jan 2013 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Blackheath Area Shipley Upper Grand Junction Wall | ||||||
26 | ★★★ Supercallousfragileextradosage - with Ross | 25m, 13 | ★★★ Classic | |||
Yesss! Very happy. Pure desperation throw and latch on the crux. Lucky.
|
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Fri 4th Jan 2013 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Blackheath Area Shipley Upper Hot Flyer Wall | ||||||
22 | ★★ Lardy Lady's Lats (The Lardy Lady's Lats) | 25m, 13 | ★★★ Classic | |||
Warm up.
|
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Thu 3rd Jan 2013 - Blue Mountains | ||||||
Blackheath Area Centennial Glen White Linen Wall | ||||||
20 | ★ Dr Foopsickle - with Sam | 8m | ★ Good | |||
You really have to pull. Done previously.
|