Ignore the desriptions complaining about the finish. If you are sensible enough to ignore the highly chalked pieces of mank you shouldn't pull on, there's plenty of good enough rock and the finish is fun.
Is 20 years ago long enough to claim a second onsight? This route is awesome. Take more red and gold cams than I did though. I got quite pumped shuffling.
I was loving this route until the last 5 m. The skinny detatched pinnacle and slab above inspired me to down climb and make Russell finish the route. Ran pitches 1 and 2 together, it works ok. The climbing is pretty cruisy. The second and 3rd belays are in rock that doesn't really bear too much thinking about.
I'm going to break with all tradition here and say this route is massively overrated. The first pitch is beyond mank. The roof is in a good position, but the rock is still mank. I was very happy to have a 6 camalot with me, it's in dirty but at least solid rock. There are are a few nice moves on good rock in the 3rd pitch, then it becomes a ramble ending in a manky slab. Go do Basilisk DF if you want the bombay chimney through roof experience on good rock and do Kaladan if you want to climb a quality route at Ikara.
The very good is more related to the potential of this route - it is super crozzly but if someone had some sort of angle grinder attachment to fast forward us through a few hundred ascents, it'd be awesome. Lots of red and green camalots.
