Routes as sport in Central Tablelands

Great climbing with shade in the morning and sun in the afternoon. Lots of bolts and plenty of stylish moves. Hard for the grade!

Steep problem tending right then up. Mostly 19-21 moves with a single 23 sequence near the beginning. Very stylish climbing.

On the left side of the crag coming down the stairs, third route along. Nice rock in the sun all day, and out of the wind! Good bit of winter rock!

Up crack to ledge, pull up onto wall, over edge to juggy slab. Struggle boltplates onto oversized bolts and veer left to TBB.

The line of bolts (mixture of carrots and fixed hangers) to the right of Papillon.

Share with the world which crux spat you off.

Excellent, sustained, varied face climbing on hard water polished stone. Start 7m R of Bartens Effort at large tree. Bridge up tree , clip BR and up to ledge. Thin moves lead left to a desperate mantle. Straight up wall to another hard section by 6th BR. Then left 1m to large hold and fire up wall on small incuts to top. 6BR , 5FH , 2BB + Ubolt. Rebolted Sept 2014.

ugly bolting, good climbing originally done in 2 pitches

A burly start leads to a seemingly endless pitch of quality face/slab questing.

The bolts are standard Wolgan relics, approach with usual grim acceptance. A true 80m rope will just get you down with rope stretch.

Sling/maillon anchor on tree. 16 bolts.

Thin face climbing up the superb clean sweep of rock right of The Righteous Brothers

Another great line envisioned by Giles Bradbury who first climbed it at 28M1. It has seen very few (2?!) free ascents.

Maybe the best route in the Wolgan?! Fantastic climbing up a gorgeous face spectacularly perched way up high. Start under the middle of the gorgeous orange face.

1. 45m (22) Techie thin corner then move a bit R up a long face to the half-height roof, bust L over this to the anchor just above.

2. 15m (22) Head L.

3. 20m (22) Up to DRB at the big break under the roof.

Named for the snow storm that enveloped the first ascent party.

Slab, right of Mr Big.

Add a grade or so if you stay on line.

Has an extra ring as a variant. (Long story). And shares lower offs with Cold Finger.

Arete on rings right of CA. Has lower offs.

Technical wall climbing up some great orange rock. Share the first three bolts of Birthday Bolts then take the left line direct up the steeper face. This was the first of the modern sport routes established in the Binary Cave, and kicked off Neil's tradition to establish a new route at this crag on every birthday. 3 years running so far.

Start: 1m right of 'Splat'.Up slab past bolts.

DBB at top.

Start: 10m up hill right of the corner of Through the Looking Glass. Another hard start to a good slab. Up slab past 3 BRs to DBB and chains behind the tree.

Note: new DBB & chains can be used for 4-5 climbs in this area, and using them will save the long-suffering tree. This belay station can be accessed by walking around and through the slot to set up top ropes if you prefer.

Original without bolts or brushing - FA solo. Up slab past 4 BR.

Start: 2m left of DW.

Chains at top.

Start: 1m right of TtLG. Desperate bouldery start off the blocks past BR, then at a more sane angle up pleasant slab past 2 BR to BB.

Up blunt nose and thin hollow flake right of Through the Looking Glass.

Start: 1m left of TtLG. Lovely smearing. Up a few metres on L of brushed streak, then step up and R past 3x FH to ledge & DBB / chains

Original without bolts.

Start: 0.5m left of Jonestown, line of new carrots just right of the short seam. FA solo.

Start: Water streak 2m left of Jonestown. Up slab past 4 BR to chain. Often wet.

Start: 5m down and left of Scabby Lizards. Up slabby wall past 5-6 BR to DBB & chain. Good sustained low angle climbing.

Good climbing up sustained, steep slab.

Start: 4m left of DMB. Up past 5 BR (2 with FH) to small ledge and rap station.

Start: Marked. 7m down and left of DMB. Desperately smooth slab - up past 6 BR to DBB rap station.

Sustained all the way to the summit.

Start: On West arete of a big boulder approx 120m W of the Deckout buttress. Bridge up desperately between tree and wall, then up past 6 BR.

Start: Near the top of the Coffin Hole 'Gully', about 10m right of 'Field Commander Jagusch'. Up slab past 5BR to DBB

Good sustained climbing up a striking line. Start: 2m right of TOfE.

1. 25m (Crux) up slab past 4 BR (3 with hangers) to large ledge with BB.

2. 30m (crux) Sustained and thin slab climbing past 5 BR between Finger Tight and SDotT. After last BR, 15m of easier climbing leads past large ledge to DBB of SDotT.

Sustained with a thin start. Start: 3m left of 2001BB on top of log. Fire up past 5 BR (with FH) then easily to a small ledge with DBB - rap off.

Sustained, varied climbing. Start as for TfJ.

1. (24) Up TJ to bolt, then straight up wall past 3 more BR to DBB at back of ledge.

2. 15m (24) Slither up corner behind past 3BR (BR at top protects second) and then walk right to 'Mr Sheen' belay

3. 15m (23) finish up MS p2.

Start: As for TfJ. 3 pitches.

Start: 3m left of Barry Dur. Up past 4BR to chain on Barry Dur.

Start: 2m left of 'Barad Dur'. Climb arete past 3BR to join Barad Dur at lip of roof. Left to chain.

This climb is wrongly identified in the Crag. Blue Train is actually the re-named Dyke. Correct name to be fixed later.

Up short wall, then follow the blunt arete.

Start: Left of 'Cirdan'.

Start: Right side of central buttress in the middle of Goog Gully.

Excellent delicate slabbing on clean rock past 5FH to rap station.

Renamed "Psyke (16)" around 2015 in the absence of accurate information.

Start: As for Celeborn. Left to dyke, follow water smear over bulge. Left up wall to ledge at 3rd bolt. Then left to finish on BMDiL and DBB.

Good clean fun.

Start: 1m right of Celeborn. Up slab and overlap past 4BR to rap station on small ledge.

Start: 5m right of 'Honey, I Shrunk the Kids' and 2m left of Optem Bop.

Up past 3 fixed hangers and a carrot to rap station or lower offs at 15m. Crux passing 1st BR

Start: 10m right of Celeborn. Middle of face over bulge (undercling hold) by BR, up slab to join NoR. Rap from chains.

Start: A few metres right of Optem Bop - interesting crux start followed by easy ramble.

Up past 3 fixed hangers to rap station or to lower-offs at 15m.

2FH to chain.

Start: At tree 2m left of 'Small Pox Wall'

3 FH to break, FH and up to DBB.

Start: 1m right of 'Small Pox Wall'

Short wall and ribbed arête (dyke) on central buttress in the middle of Goog Gully.

Thin moves to gain the dyke, then easier up to rap station on top.

Renamed "Dyke (15)" around 2015 in the absence of accurate information.

Up blunt arete 2m right of Goog Gully. Al said he bolted it but it's never been climbed and he may remove it.

Steep and technical with 6 SS FH.

Short but pleasant climb.

Start: West inside of Split Cwym Boulder 2m left of arete. Up past BRs.

Start: 3m left of Stairway to Heaven.

Go for 2 small finger holds, a smear, a high step, then straight up - no bridging or cheating stones at the start!

Exit route used to get out of Butterbox Canyon that doubles as the access to the bottom for all of the climbing routes. One short (~12m) section of technical climbing (or an abseil when descending) that is massively overbolted.

Stiff moves for the original grade (8) especially with a pack on and canyon gear. The traverse on a sketchy ledge that leads up to the climb has also been bolted. Bolts can be used to rig a traverse line.

Multi-pitch sport climb. ~100m. Grades 19,19,17,14. All protection is ring or U bolts, no carrots. Faces south west - so shade until early afternoon.

Access path is 60m SOUTH of Cahill's Lookout on Cliff Drive, Katoomba. (access path: http://goo.gl/maps/1TsvL)

Take at least 14 draws. Be prepared for hanging belays, take lots of locking ‘biners. Twin or double ropes recommended for long abseils and sharp rope-cutting ironstone which is abundant on this route. There is plenty of loose rock on this route - be careful to stick to the line and not stray into the chossville around it. Helmets highly recommenced and be very careful if there are multiple parties on the route at the same time.

Alternate Access if the abseils are swarming with guided groups-either walk down Devil's Hole (pretty but hard to find the start) or rap down off 2 Ubolts 3m west (R facing out) of normal rap anchor (straight down pitch 4). Then go down the gully for a few meters and walk/traverse out on right wall and eventually find the top of P3 (i.e. reverse the normal route). Leave a long cordlette on the Ubolts to get the screwgate over the edge and rap the route. Either 3 raps or it looks like you can rap P3 (35m) and P2 (25m) in one 60m rap (it's slightly diagonal so the first down should clip one or two bolts) , then P1 (40m)- I haven't tried so take 2 x 60m ropes (or longer) and prusiks.

Orientation: the crag runs more-or-less NORTH-SOUTH. The access path is the EAST side of the cliff, the Megalong Valley below is on the WEST side of the cliff.

Follow access path until you reach 2 chains. This is where you will start and finish.

Rappel ~20m down from chains to the floor of the gully below. (On your way down, scan on your left (if facing rock) for U-bolts which will be protection for the climb out on P4.)

Walk SOUTH, following the rock face on the WEST. Do not take the much steeper, narrow northern path. (On the walk down, try to spot the single U-bolt placed high up on the western face, about half way down the gully hill; you walk past it or could rap from it.)

Follow the track around to the right, traversing at the height of the U-bolt until you have almost done a complete circle. You will pass another U-bolt on the right at about head-height. You will find a very windy chimney/rock split.

You need to pass through the chimney to access 3 rappel chains hidden from view. You can solo this part or setup belay from previous U-bolt. 2 U-bolts in chimney, 1 outside chimney.

Rappel down from 3 chains. You should head WEST when you lower. Try to spot the 2 rappel chains below you and aim for them. You may rappel ~15m to lower 2 rappel chains, or skip those chains and continue ~25m (~40m total) to a single ring-bolt chest-height on SOUTH face of wall.

Rappel ~10m to 2 rappel chains on edge of cliff. (this step can be skipped, but be wary of running out 50m rope)

Rappel ~40m from 2 chains to solid ground.

Following the cliff on your right, head WEST then NORTH along path until you reach U-bolts. This is the start of the ascent. If you reach a nose, or tree with slings around it you have gone too far.

1. 40m (19). Start is difficult and belay is right above huge drop-off so make sure belayer is on safety. Finish at 3 U-bolts. Setup semi hanging belay.

2. 25m (19). Soft, sandy slopers mostly. Watch for funnel web spiders; they are deadly. Finish at 3 U-bolts at ledge.

3. 35m (17). Really easy but be careful of sharp ironstone, it can sever rope. Finish at multiple U-bolts on top ledge.

Walk EAST on the top of the cliff and walk to the left (north) of the first pinnacle, over the sketchy looking ledge. Follow path to the right (south) of the second pinnacle, which is the "Boars Head" rock feature.

Follow the cliff around the southern side of Boars Head and you will find the gully from the first rappel. Stay belayed and keep traversing.

1. 25m (14) Climb back to 2 rappel chains at the start. Climb is located 6m left of the top abseil at start. First bolt can be hard to find, you may need to solo about 2m at the narrowest point of the chimney to find first bolt. Either sneak off right at the top, or direct on left.

Note: this guide does not distinguish between ring bolts and U-bolts. If U-bolt is listed, ring bolt might be present.

Guide by Paul Hauner and Joel Griggs. February 2014.

The first route as you arrive.. If you like steep and thuggy then this is your number. Be careful on the first couple of bolts as the ground isn't far away.

Easily the easiest route here. The warm up... if you're a pumper. Jug along with glee.

Doesnt get as much attention as 'Headshot' but just as good. Perhaps a little more thuggy?

A tricky sequence at the start leads to a good rest then mostly good grips for great sustained fun.

Took 5 days to bolt with much head scratching, almost didn't happen. Thought it would be 21. Maybe it is?

The warm up if you aren't a pumper. The most popular route here. Good climbing!

Hard and sustained edges from half height, is considered solid for the grade now with the direct finish.

Like a Cornetto... no boring parts! A great climb if you like mountains pockets and the hardest of the 4s at this crag. At least 2 grades harder than Funky!

Same start as the last two climbs but keeps drifting right to anchors on the arête. Sent as horizontal hail arrived.

Steep orange wall of bomber rock with two distinct cruxes. 'Fantastic' rock shapes.

15m past the descent rungs.

Another good steep orange line. A one move wonder on thin holds, the rest is juggy steep fun. Might be grade 24 if you can crimp?

Use shared lower-off with Remember the Alamo.

This is the middle route with shiny FHs and lower-off.

More great wall climbing on orange rock.

Sustained orange wall finishing right of the corner

Pumper, follows obvious right leaning ramp. Now starts on the ground and stops at lower-offs at 35m. Needs 16 draws and 2 more for the anchor, and a 70m rope. The good hold for the hard move down low snapped in June 2013, decide for yourself whether this does anything to the grade.

Up and right along ramp then up.

With a recent rebolt this is now a good sport pitch - and one of the only "warm-ups" in the area. Starts about 20m left of Clockwork Orange. The original top pitch is trad but unremarkable and not recommended.

1. 18m (20) Thin start then left into great orange scoops and up wall to lower-offs at base of black slab. Make sure you stick clip the first bolt.

2. 30m (15?) Don't bother - but if you do bother go left from anchor onto unprotected low angle black slab. Up this to small ledge with large scary blocks - then easy trad corner to top and chain.

A great long pitch but a botched rebolt has created a bit of a mess. Bring lots of long runners and a couple of bolt plates (to clip the old bolts - which are actually much better positioned than the new bolts!). Most just do the first pitch and lower-off. Start 15m right of 'Sidewinder' at ringbolted arete.

1. 35m (23) Start on right side of arete but quickly swing onto left side (crux - sandbag). Up long wall for several bolts then traverse left under overlap (hard to clip bolt above this) then mantle up left to base of short corner (ignore random ringbolts on the right side of the arete). Up corner to belay ledge. 60m rope will just get you down on rope stretch. Its a bit of a rope killer- maybe best to rap rather than lower/

2. 20m (15) Right from belay and up.

Sustained slab. Look for the painted initials 4m up, beside the big block split away from the slab.

1. 25m (23) Tough first move, but then keep it together. Absorbing climbing on rings and historic fixed hangers.

2. 25m (24) The reputation pitch!

Very good. Has 2 totally different pitches. Start 3-4m L of Excalibur at the ring bolts. At the end of pitch one consider building the first bolt of pitch two into the anchor to allow for the stance to be much higher and more comfortable, the current anchor forces a painfully bunched belay.

1. 27m (22) Very trad, for a sport pitch. Corner to faint arete. A hold at the start came off so this pitch is a little harder now, but really worth the effort.

2. 20m (25) Some consider that this is one of the best aretes in the mountains!

Starts right of Excelsior, 3-4m L of Excalibur. up chossy arete to awesome face on fixed hangers (red). Excellent climbing! Has a bit of reinforcement at the top. Runout.

1. 20m (20) Very choss, but worth it for pitch 2. Start 1m R of Excalibur. UB then FHs up choss into corner. Through the steep bit to a semi-hanging belay at small foot ledge (DRB).

2. 40m (25) Left and up arete and wall for about 6m to break, then R and up the middle of the beautiful face to lower-off. This pitch is all new RBs (approx 15 bolts) except for the old anchor. You need to lower off the last RB if your rope is less than 70m.

Start 2m R of Lucifer's Hammer. Sandy start with a high 1st FH; stick-clip may be prudent. Follow the R line of FHs thru choss for 15m, heading for the exposed right arete. After pulling through the roof, you are rewarded with a delightfully sculpted 10m arete. Chain lower-off.

1. 25m (25) Start as for Thrustblock, traverse out across left wall to arete. Hard moves on arete then around L and up to DRBB.

2. 25m (22) Follow rings diagonally R to small ledge and DRBB.

3. 20m (20) Up left side of arete to DRBB.

A long shady classic slab/wall on impeccable rock. This is the ringbolted orange face just right of the monster corner of Thrustblock. When everything else at Porters is being hammered by arvo sun this route has blessed shade. Watch your rope length when lowering off and be ready to rethread on the DRB at 25m (and beware several big loose blocks beside/above them, which need to be trundled).

The bolted direct of The Mind Boggles remained unclimbed for well over a decade before an Italian snuck in for the sneaky send. Looks thin and blank!

Start in the corner as for the next two routes, then straight up and to the left of La La Land following the leftmost bolted line and finishing at anchors shared with LLL.

Is a favourite for aspiring 24 leaders. The central, very chalked line of the three.

Same start as previous but follow bolts trending out right.

A couple of longer slings / extended draws will be handy to reduce drag on first few bolts. (especially bolt 3)

A thin move to get established on the slab leads to a long sequence of interesting climbing interspersed with rests.

The final section may be baffling, but can be done a few different ways.

Shallow corner/crack just after the waterfall. Apparently the 'original' start of the FFA of 'Sesame Street'!

Starts as for CA then traverses left as far as possible.

Start as for Ca then left.

Careful on the unnecessary runouts, there's some ledge fall potential down low.

Start: Start as for CA.

Straight up the wall following seam in centre of wall.

Crimpy Slab

Funky, cryptic stemming up the obvious open book corner.

Starts on the path below the Dogs, Cats and Apples ledge and finishes up SStK.

Left hand route off the ledge.

Keep off Nylon Happy at the top to earn the grade and another star.

Rebolted 2004. '23' in the 2015 Blue Mountains Guidebook. Rest assured that it is indeed 22. The crack/seam in the middle of the wall. Be careful of some hollow rock.

Great, reasonably committing slabbing. Starts up the same crack feature as Nylon Happy but steps right almost immediately. Up past/into rooflet to interesting face above.

Classic at the grade. Great funky moves on good rock up the slab to awesome conclusion on fairly unique scoops. Rebolted 2004.

This is basically a retrobolt of Dragons Egg.

Has been retro-bolted with ring bolts and has a new finish out to the left after rooflet. Start 3m right of Ness is Best, by the tree.

Rebolted 2004.