Routes in Central Western Slope and Plains

Squat start on good side pulls and up burly compression on small holds. Super sick

Emmanuel Madayag (FA)

Stand start on 2 sharp crimps before crux move to pinch of Director's Special.

Sit start on bottom left of face on sidepull crimps and climb up and right into Mohs to finish as for that problem.

Emmanuel Madayag (FA)

Sit start on jug and undercling. Hard start to easier and interesting finish

Recommend at least 2 pads and good spotter so you don't fall off the ledge/cliff

Emmanuel Madayag (FA)

Stand start on big underclings in interesting feature and up big moves via compression on crimps and slopers. Very fun

IMPORTANT - Beta changed after an important hold broke

Emmanuel Madayag (Original FA)

Emmanuel Madayag (New Beta)

Stand start in heuco and head directly up via small crimps and undercling. Bit of an eliminate

Stand start on opposing poor slopers with hooks or poor feet. Up via good and bad holds to a final big throw. Mantle up left

Sit start maybe possible v10+

Sit start on slopey right and and good left hand with cramped feet. A couple hard hand and foot moves into the start of Tilted

Sit start at start of The Hanging Wall Proj and traverse left on worsening crimps into the start of Offset to finish as for that problem

Sit start on sidepull crimp and move into the start of Tranquility to finish as for that climb

Crouch start on decent slopers and up big moves on slimps (sloping crimps). Slopey jug to the right from J Sun is out. You know which one

Stand start on arete with 2 good side pulls and up good holds to top out with a tricky mantle on the right side

Emmanuel Madayag (FA)

Start at stone cold and climb up and right through small crimps to top out above Director's Special

Emmanuel Madayag (FA)

Standstart on opposing vertical pinches in middle of face and move up easy compression before a difficult traverse up and right on the slippery slopers to finish up some hard moves to crimps and side pulls. Top out Take a grade off if you kneebar for the mantle

Climb as for Rover/Fida to the chimney and finish via Big Worm. Limit your rests to depump/get breath back for the grade, so 3-5 mins max on Arete after Ridgeback then 1-2 mins around the Crumpers, power to technical stamina fest, great climb.

Sit start up arete on cool pinches to top out at the peak on the WarmupBungle face

Climb as for Rover finishing via the left exit of chimney.

Climb roff then continue back over to Smokestack via Crumper moving right into and up the chimney exiting on its right side.

Sit start on crimp ledge. Hard move to good holds and then easy top out

Stand start on sloper and head up and left through techy and powerful moves to top out. Sitstart adds a couple fun moves on jugs

Emmanuel Madayag (FA)

Sit start on bad sloper crimp thing and hard cross to another sloper crimp thing before busting right to good horn near lip. FA used a bicycle on the arete

Crouch start on left hand arete and right hand bad sloper. Hard tension move then to the lip

Stand start on good flat (left leaning) edges and make big move up to some bad slopers. Quite an off balance climb

Don't use any of the pebbles in the thin band, they're highly likely to come out

Start as for Artifact, reversing Mohs traverse into the top of Thunder

Climb Ridgeback continuing 360deg around bloc via Stile on KB side of boulder.

Sit start left hand edge, right hand small sidepull off of StNE moving left into and up Razoback.

Climb as for Ridgeback St via the short detour on Smokestack as for Reverse Crumper.

Climb rbx continuing 360deg around bloc via Stile on KB side of boulder.

Climb rbc and continue 360deg around bloc via Stile on KB side.

Wide compression on crimps and jugs, exiting straight up. Easier the taller you are

Stand start on left arete and right hand crimp. Move up face to top out in middle of face. Crux moves at the lip. Very cool

Emmanuel Madayag (FA)

Sit start in crack on 2 finger jams and jam/layback up crack to some proper palm jamming up top.

Sit start variant of Razoback starting both hands on shark tooth.

Contrived technical sit start to Razoback starting left hand edge, right hand shark tooth.

Climb Razoback and complete 360deg lap around bloc via Stile on the KB side.

Start as for A Lo Bien but head left towards the top of Crescent Rose

Stand start on opposing good sidepulls and up via face compression with a bit of stem feet. Mega

Sit start on left hand crimp right hand sloper on arete and move up and left

Stand start on good side pull and move up and right to mantle onto slab to top out. Pick your feet well

Emmanuel Madayag (FA)

Start as for Caldera finishing with the Eruption dyno

Sit start on crimps and climb up and right to lip of the bowl to top out up

Emmanuel Madayag (FA)

Sit start on left broken crimp and right hand on terrible sloper. Hard deadpoint into start of crouch start

Emmanuel Madayag (FA)

Sit start on two chunky side pulls move up to nice clean set of crimps and then traverse right around to arete. Finish matched on the large overhanging sloper block.

Sit start right side of overhang, out left side of over hang then squeeze onto & up tricky sharp easing arete.

Climb Razelu and continue 360deg around boulder via Stile on the Kevin Bacon side of bloc.

Climb raff raff continue around bloc to bridge back over to Smokestack via Crumper moving right into and finishing via Big Worm. Technical with great rests, much easier than Razoback albeit much longer!

Pretty fun link up even if a bit contrived. Start as for mustard in the moonlight and do its hardest moves but before going to the top, punch right through crimps to gain the starting jug on mustard it up and keep traversing through jug rail to easy topout

Sit start in rooflet and up nice crimps to easy top. V5 without big foot ledge and v2 with

Sit start on gaston crimp and up to big pocket before top

Cramped sit start on left edge and right jug. Moving up some good edges to top out jug. Sketchy landing

Sit start to the right of Spherulite Sit and up cool slopers with a cool foot cam

Start as for Mohs but exiting halfway at the triangle jug to easy topout

Takes the crux and exit of Razoback starting from stand/crouch inside the pod both hands beneath the central ridge/spine,somewhat technical and thuggish.

Climbs up to and across Flight of the Phoenix, joining London's Dockyard to finish.

Possibly the hardest multi-pitch in the Bungles. Tackles the major face between 'Crucifixion' and the Tourist Route. This is NOT a sport route - and the rock quality is a bit sub par on pitch 4. Take a double set of cams to fist size, double rack of wires including RPs, at least 15 draws and several long slings. A helmet is also a must.

Starts on right side of east face at section of black steep slabs, aprox 100m left of the rap descent route.

1. 35m (20) Wall (3 FHs) to left facing orange corner with fiddly small gear. At the top of corner step left onto wall (vital small wires) and then up trending slightly right past 2 FHs and several small wires and cams. Belay on ledge at DBB. 5 bolts.

2. 30m (14) Up blocky crackline just to the left of the belay to small ledge belay 3m left of major chossy orange corner (Hex Generation).

3. 25m (22) Straight up tricky wall on trad for 10m to FH, then continue up and right on steep grey wall and arete past a further 4 FHs to final exposed right step across crack into pea-pod belay directly above 'Hex Generation' crackline. 5 bolts.

4. 40m (24) Pumpy technical climbing on the left wall - keeping left of the bolts makes for harder but better climbing. Stay right and experience chossy terror. When the bolts run out follow the corner crack for 25m to comfy big ledge. 6 bolts.

5. 48m (24) Move belay to double bolts at far left end of ledge. Up slab and out left across face with couple of tough moves. Finish up epic wall with a section of micro wires supplementing the bolts. Belay on ledge at double rings. This is the last opportunity to rap off. 9 bolts.

6. 45m (14) Up blocky line above then leftwards up easy angled corner on lovely rock. Belay on trad when you can.

7. 40m (14) Continue up leftwards leaning easy crack line to summit. Traverse ridge and then down the Green 'Gully'.

Sit start on crimps and up nice incut crimps to hard mantle. Classic

Left hand undercling right hand crimp crouch start. Up to bad crimp and jump to lip. Hard to grade

Start as for The Index, traverse into start of Gneiss Arete with some cool moves to top out as for that problem

Emmanuel Madayag (FA)

Start as for Meteorite but dyno from the left hand crimp to the top, eliminating the right hand sloper jug

Start as for Kinematics but exiting just before the top to the slab on the left

Emmanuel Madayag (FA)

Crouch/stand start with both hands on pale patch. Establish on poor feet and move up right to rail. Finish with interesting mantle. Be careful not to fall into the hollow stump. Edge is OUT for hands and feet.

Crouch start on crimps up face

Stand start on jug and undercling and up big move on decent holds to a struggle in the offwidth crack to mantle. Feels desperate

Sit start on two sidepulls and move up through slopey pinches and slopers to top out straight up.

Emmanuel Madayag (FA)

Sit start to the left of Bootylicious, climbing into the same exit

Climb as for Smokified! adding the lap out and back on Crumpet of the South 2 before summiting.

Climbs as for Nevada with a lap out and back on Crumpet of the South 2 before summiting.

Start as for Lamington finish as for Blockbuster.

Climb as for Style completing a lap of Crepe whilst over on Smokestack (bridge back via either Crumper).

Start up Razel Razel continuing around bloc 360deg short detour on Smokestack via Reverse Crumper then Stile back on KB side of boulder.

Sit start arete on two obvious flat jugs. Up through side-pulls and crimps to easy topot. Fun and powerful with minimal choss

Sit start up nice pinches on arete to easy ish top on Star Gazers face

Stand start in trench and climb up big moves on good crimps.

A-void (haha) falling through the hole on the other side, it leads to a cliff

Sit start to Dead' Arete from low rail/crimp centre of Dead Edges wall.

Climb as for Smokified! adding the lap of Crumpet of the South 1 before summiting.

Climbs as for Nevada adding a lap out and back on Crumpet of the South 1 before summiting.

Climb as for Smokified! finishing via CEL.

Climb as for Nevada finishing via CEL.

Star up Razel Razel and continue 360deg around boulder via Stile on Kevin Bacon side of bloc.

Steep and sustained linkup pitch between Icarus and Falling Feathers.

1-2: As for Icarus.

3: 35 m Traverse R from Icarus corner to weakness. Up and slightly R to base of overhanging groove. Groove, then L at top. Up, then R to crack in slab. Crack and wall to base of Icarus buttress and Falling Feathers.

Takes the striking arete R of Ginsberg and follows it all the way.

On the small block opposite crescent rose

Sit start on slopey edge before big move to lip and slopey mantle

Awkward sit start with right hand pinching arete and left hand on face or arete. Directly up to awkward mantle

Sit start on two right facing sidepulls, and move up through small crimps

NOTE: Original sit start right hand is now broken. Start one move in right on small crimp. Original start position goes at approx v7

Stand start on good jug and pinch on arete and big move to top of wall with smear feet

Left-hand side of the wall up good holds to mantle crux

Sit start on good slopers at lip and mantle up. Feels impossible till you figure it out

Sit start. Left hand on big sidepull, right hand on sloping gaston. Choice of feet on broken off detached block. Big span out to the arete and finish as per Cubic Cleavage.

Sit start to PPL on sidepull jugs.

Start 2 hands on right wall and stem up corner to a fun mantle, staying in the first groove

Same start as Hole of Glory, but up and left to more difficult mantle. Very cool