Routes in Mid North Coast

2m right of Barn Storming. 3 bolts.

The original start on the right side of the arete is about 17. However, a better start is on the left side of the arete and is more in keeping with the grade of the rest of the climb - 14. Excellent value. Straight up the arete to top, natural pro.

This and the next route are on a short, orange section of the cliff with small roofs and caves. Imagine having pus in your boots! An overhanging arete then easy to top.

The left hand corner of the "Shower Recess". Up the corner with jugs to tree belay. The first good route climbed at the Fun Parlour (and possibly all of the Coffs area).

The closed seam leading into the crack and bowl. Nice easy beginners climb,

Bottomless to BR, then up black rock on gear

1m right of PS

3m right of WTPGHH around where there is a dish like depression half way up.

Super fun flake/crack up the middle of Lama Land. Bolt belay.

Direct start to Happy Lama.

Up flack and through bulge

Far right side. Start 4 R of O climb up corner. Anchor long slings 2 boulders.

Low tide only.

A glorious scramble along untamed coast leading to a single easy boulder problem (VB? V0?). From the east edge of Number One Beach scramble 500m towards Boat Beach via jagged basalt slab formations.

When you find yourself above a narrow channel that heaves with the tide, you'll be funneled into the boulder problem. Grip the overhang and pass over the channel to the rock platform beyond. You'll be at Boat Beach in seconds.

Easy face with plenty of holds up to the cave. To get off down climb to the left in the corner.

Up the centre of the slab facing the ocean, viewpoint is just to the left

Left hand side of the most northern face of the crag

Sit start and to the top

Climb the carrots on the white streak, the rock is better than you think it might be. 2 fixed hangers at the top.

NP route. Up the open book cnr crack, then traverse to line above the bolt on T. Follow the NP line taking you around the left of the face. Up to chain belay under ledge.

This climb is designed to be a novice's first lead, It is all natural with good placements for SLCD. A chain belay is waiting on a reasonable ledge

The crack 1m right of Knuckle Sandwich. Jam to cave, exit right. Small cams.

1m right of ‘Love and Marriage’. Up obvious chunky route to right of tree Natural pro, tree belay

The right arete of the "Shower Recess". Low angle arete with one bolt and trad gear. Cruise up and right on jugs to top to a double bolt belay.

A traverse of terror leading to a balancy face.

the corner crack on left of wall

The big corner that divides Central Wall from Left Wall. Head up corner using obvious crack line and juggy holds. Top-out over obvious grassy block onto the descent ledge/path 5m R of RFID. Build anchor to rap or walk off R (see RFID for descent details).

Up slap, remember using some rp's to a single fixed hanger and pandanus belay at top placed by the now defunct 'Yarrahappini Outdoor Ed'

L of RFID. Start above obvious crack line at the base. Climb up to top and walk off over the back to the far L.

An easy but bold slab route on the extreme downstream (north-eastern) end of the South Gorge wall. Solo to belay at a large pocket. 1st pitch (48m): Up right to body pocket up of left hand side of clean slab, belay in grass. 2nd pitch (50m): Up slab veering right then up steep 10m wall. Belay at loose block. 3rd pitch (55m): Up, slightly left then right to crack in block. 4th pitch (50m): Traverse out left on easier ground to large tree. One 50m rap to ground. The photo topo is an estimated. Please update if you know where the route goes.

30m upstream (south) of 'Unlucky for Some', at the furthermost flat pocket, along the same slab system. 1st pitch (48m): Up tending right to dirty cracks, step left and up clean, unprotected slab to belay ledge. 2nd pitch (48m): Up through steep section, step right and belay at base of corner/dierdre. 3rd pitch (52m): Up on left hand side of diedre, follow line of pockets left, then straight up easier slab to ledge and poor belay. 4th/5th pitch: Easy traverse to left then down to abseil tree as for 'Unlucky for Some'. The photo topo is an estimated. Please update if you know where the route goes.

50m right of Smug Dolphin Prick up left side of the left side of the crack. tree belay.

About 10m right of Rabid Dog. A layback crack below a ledge with a large tree.

1. Follow the corner crack to exit left on a small ledge. Up blocks to a large ledge.

2. From the left hand end of the large ledge, head straight up to the grass and traverse right or alternatively finish straight up from the large tree. Watch out for the see-saw rock!

Solo or top rope the corner chimney

The next corner right of BOOT THE PUSS. Every cliff needs a horrible climb. Up corner crack to cave, up wall to top.

A very short wall between SNOWMAN and WOMAN. Nice moves.

The crack in the corner just right of BALLROOM BLITZ. Named after the feeling you get just after you put on your harness. Bridge and jam.

The corner crack, all natural gear, traverse right at the top to join the anchors of TB.

Starts at crack between light and dark rock. Follow broken line to top. See RB for descent details.

The big open corner 2m R of RWS. Head up corner using obvious crack line and juggy holds to stance. Continue up to Top-out over obvious grassy block onto the descent ledge/path. Build anchor to rap, down climb or walk off (see RFID for descent details).

The corner right of SANDY SANDSHOES. Neil's first route! Up onto the step then bridge up corner.

A fun, relaxing lead up blocky rock and crack, opposite Port Pillar. Rock quality is average to sub par on this end of the pillar, especially in the last few metres, some blocks have dislodged recently (2023). Setting up an anchor may be problematic; it is recommended you belay off harness and preload anchor.

2m right of Round up! up crag then trend left to top tree belay.

The crack 3m right of Punters and Collectors. Climb crack to tree belay. Large cams.

The left hand, low angled side of the small buttress.

The left hand arete of the "Shower Recess". Up the arete then easily to top. A great beginners' route.

Corner Crack on Right side of wall. no anchors except you can traverse left to anchor on project

An access route. No pro. Better not to do it. On the easy side.

A waste of space. No .. not women .. just this route. A very short crack. More of a quick way to the top of the cliff.

One of the first routs at this cliff by the Dodgy Brothers. A fist sized crack in a short wall. Strait up. Right of SHORT AND SWEET.

The ocean facing wall just r of rwav

At the RH end of Ripple Wall before the Pandanus. This is the easiest route to take down when descending Ripple Wall.

A good beginners route with interesting juggy features up a small slab. A little blocky at top. Easy descent to the R.

Walk or climb up slanted face

A good way to check out the holds for the others.

sds and up. FA done by 7 yo.

The short, right hand crack in the corner to cave. Down-climb to clean.

The short, left hand crack in the corner to cave. Down-climb to clean.

Reverse moves to get down.

Used to escape ledge after toping out on other problems or done ground up.