Routes in New South Wales and ACT for selected grade

2m L of Ginsu. Climbs the steeper section of the wall following 6 or 7 camouflaged FHs and a few crimps.

Starts same as above but takes the right-hand bolt line. Trends up and R passing monster flake (climbing corner L of this) to roof, through this on flakes. 9 FH’s then mantle to anchor above lip.

15m R in central section of wall. Monster traverse - traverses about 15m R through a 45 degree overhung wall. A tribute to a very talented 12yo Italian climber on the day of his passing. 12 FH’s. Permadraws. Very chossy until the 2nd draw.

A creature with the body, tail, and back legs of a lion; the head and wings of an eagle; and an eagle's talons as its front feet. 5m R. Up past bolt onto large platform at 5m. Up a balancy slab for 15m to ledge below the steepness. Now comes a series of punchy steep sections interspersed with good rests. The finale, traversing above the sucking void is particularly exciting.

A large cephalopod-like creature with a tentacled mouth, large wings, clawed hands and scaly skin. Starting at the tree seat. Climbs the orange rock through a bulge. Standard Crossroads wall climbing through bulges takes you beyond the half height anchor to a sit-down rest. Out of here the line snakes right and left - long slings will reduce drag. The final section pits you against an arete you must cross left to right. A very interesting assortment of moves and several very good rests to keep things sane. Take 23 quickdraws.

A fearsome giant with one body and three heads. He owned Orthrus. Start is just to the right of Cthulhu. Climb up the slab to a roof and pull through a minor crux then solid steep moves to the top.

Located left of Giant at black slab with low first bolt. Another difficult slab start leads up to the ledge. Grade 22 climbing for most of the way, until things start to steepen with a tricky crux in a clean corner where your arms begin to tire. Keep it together to negotiate the arete to corner-transition finale.

The god of death and the king of the Fomorians (a race of giants). Scramble up on stacked blocks to reach first bolt on black slab above. Slab to ledge, then through a steeper bit to another ledge and super quality shield of perfect stone. Tricky moves to breach this, then up to a technical mantle to below the upper steepness. Then, up.

A monstrous wolf. Start as for Balor to get on top of the stacked blocks, then wander 5m R to first bolt. Up black slab past four bolts to the gently overhung streaky black wall. Nice sporty moves up this to typical Crossroads mantle out. More varied climbing including a no holds mantle, and then steep jugging with a punchy finale. Good fun!

High first U-bolt on dark rock (stickclip off block). Fierce moves off the deck give a brief rest before fingerlock crux above bolt four. Continuous, R-leaning climbing past another eight bolts to lower off. Climbed on the famous 41 degree day.

4m R. The big corner with glue-in rings. Large R-leaning open book corner (some shattered rock), then left. Top crux will have you thinking. Crazy pockets up top are worth experiencing.

A big wall adventure in a real jungle. Epic access, some loose rock and wet weather make this one of the harder long routes in Australia. This route was originally aided at A2+ 17, then freed shortly after at 25. The route description is for the aid ascent. There was once a track cut through the thick jungle to the base of the wall, but this is most likely long gone. The walk-in was 3+ hours with the track. Without - expect to double that time or more. You cannot see the cliff until you are standing right under it.

Aid Ascent Gear Required: 2x60m ropes, double rack of wires + cams (up to size #5 SLCD), Slider nuts, 2 x regular skyhooks, 1 size each of short knifeblade pins + a few lost arrows, no bolt brackets are required - all bolts have fixed hangers.

There is much loose rock still on the route. From pitches 5-7 the route weaves around some seriously big widow makers. The pitches in this area are short so that the belayer is safe from falling rock. All of the belays, apart from the top of pitch 7, are hanging or semi hanging. The only area suitable for an uncomfortable bivi on the wall would be the vegetated ledge midway through pitch 8. Rock quality varies along the route with the rock improving in hardness above pitch 6.

1. 15m (8) Traverse diagonally left from spear-lillys across very easy slab to crack. Up for a few moves to single ring-bolt belay under bulging roof. FA Phil Box.

2. 35m (A2 14) Aid past 2 bolts to gain pocket and then crack. Up this overhung crack to stance. Continue up wide crack to DBB. FA Phil Box.

3. 15m (15) Slab up and left for ten metres, then back right to belay at spear-lilly and DBB. FFA Neil Monteith

4. 30m (A2) Up short slab to corner and FH. Up and right onto stance then bat-hook and bolt left two metres to crack. Up this onto slab and DBB. FA Nick McKinnon

5. 20m (A2+ 14) Straight up slab to climb thin cracks. Trend left and up blocky hand crack. When this blanks out aid up then move right to bolt, bat hook and finally free up to DBB. FA Neil Monteith

6. 20m (A2 16) 'Phil's Traverse' - Climb directly right to below overhanging left leaning ramp. Aid through overhang with bolt and pull over this to spear-lilly. Climb wonderful hand and fist crack for ten metres to DBB. FA Phil Box

7. 25m (A2+ 12) Aid thin seams off belay for three metres to super hand crack. When this finishes go right through bulges then easily up and left to DBB on good ledge. FA Nick McKinnon

8. 40m (15) Free climb on slabby ground up and right below overhang. Back left and up hand-crack then onto bushy ledge. Up a few more metres to DBB. FFA Neil Monteith

9. 50m (17) A rope stretcher! Straight up to gain left leading crack. Lay back up this then onto slab with bolt. After this run it out heading slightly left for ages to arrive at last DBB. A further 100m of slabby vegetated rock is above this. Unless you like evil bush-bashing, it's recommended to rap off here. FFA Neil Monteith

Descent: Pitch 9 to 8 50m Pitch 8 to 7 35m Pitch 7 to 4 50m Pitch 4 to 2 40m Pitch 2 to 1 40m Pitch 1 to ground 60m+ (walk off possible if slab is not wet)

1. 7 - The approach slabs and traverse to get to the climb proper.

2. 24 - perhaps, hard mantling layaway using small arete and footer under roof to gain a respite on a decent ledge for a rest before launching up through a series of right leaning overhung handcrack breaks and bulges. Cameron Fairbairn 15/9/02

3. 16 - slab to spear lilly belay, start off from the top of pitch 2 and go left around and underneath the spear lilly belay hanging blocks.

4. 25 - Start from spear lilly belay, head right up and across slab into the obvious corner, reach out for a fabulous jug on the mantle ledge, swing up onto ledge from whence the hard small traverse left starts, clip bolt and then continue left to establish oneself in obvious crack, up directly to belay. Cameron Fairbairn 15/9/02

5. 20 - From belay trend left up blocky ramp being careful not to get sucked in too far left, continue up through the first easy system and then back to the right to find 2 widely spaced bolts, equalise these for a killer belay to observe the shenanigans of the roof coming up next.

6. 23 - Clip the high bolt of the belay before dropping down low and plugging a couple of aliens in out wide along the traverse line on almost non existent feet , drop a bit lower for good feet and then climb up directly under roof bolt. Yeah it`s goey hey, get on out there through that roof, campus up on rugositys to stand on the lip and then swim through the spear lilly to plug wide gear in crack behind lilly, continue up wide dirty crack to bomber anchor. Back this anchor up with a couple of cams as there is the distinct possibility of a climber falling direct on to this anchor due to the next section being so thin and poor gear direct off the belay. Cameron Fairbairn 15/9/02

7. 24 - Work those aliens and wires in baby and hold on for the ride of your life fortunately this thin seam is not overhung unlike the hand crack which this seam leads to so test that gear bucko, continue up the overhung handcrack to where it blanks out to find yourself at a walrus ledge containing thin fingers and crimpers, belly flop on to that sloper walrus ledge to find yourself with one more block to get over before arriving at a fabulously comfortable belay complete with garden and at least one square foot of space to stand on, it's practically a bivvy ledge. Cameron Fairbairn 15/9/02

8. 17 - Skirt right to skyline then trend left, take care to talk to your belayer as anchors are a direct rope fall/abseil above Pitch 8 anchors. By talking to your belayer you should be able to orient his voice to the line of fall as this slab can suck you in way left.

9. 16 - We did change out the Fixe hangers and leaver biners to Double rap ring Fixe hangers.

10. There is a possibility of adding a further pitch to this route to top out.

Start on the yellow tooth underclings. Haul left through underclings and top out via compression fridge

Sit start on underclings. heave up to sharp crimp and pounce to edge then top out

Start on sideways crimps, Out left to arete but transition onto face and exit up left

Tricky arete with bad feet, grade changes depending on sand level.

Start sitting on block, up slapping right arete and thin holds on face to finish up large pocket on left side of face.

Layaway from jam crack to gaston on face, then out left to pocket.

Watch your back! From pocket up and over with bad feet.

Can be done either direction! Slippery and pumpy.

Becoming a classic, a tall man’s nemesis.

Heads left and up wall to finish at anchors as for HG

To the right of AS, up the wall into the roof (3 bolts), a big move to clip the 4th bolt then continue up corner past another bolt to clip chain up high.

Up the Beautiful yellow wall past 4 bolts. Rebolted MAY 18

The right most route on the corner. First clip hanger from ledge, then power through some great juggy roof moves onto slopers then up face to chains.

Starts up the toilet bowl, traverse and up the existing line past some slopers to a spicy finish. Needs another bolt as lower offs. Originally bolted by Nick Wagland.

Climb flake and arete to get to 5m horizontal roof. Fire our roof near finger crack to anchors over lip.

Start left side of cave. Bouldery start, up through bulge and headwall to anchors

Direct start is open project. Start as for RD on right for 1 bolt. then step left at break and up steep line. Bring some skin.

Link Scorpio Low Traverse into Space Race/Red Dwarf for a load of sideways fun. The longest route at the crag (so far), gets a bit of a pump going.

Straight up black face and around the rooflet

Climbs the obvious overhanging arete

The obvious steepening white streak on the right of the crag.

Approx 40m to the right of Mighty Mouse. Stellar route that has it all. Is often overlooked as the bottom is a bit wet. Starts off dirty/wet ledge under obvious corner. First pitch (19): up corner (carrots and cams) then trend slightly right to just under roof (cams & carrot bolt for belay). Second pitch (25): Short and punchy. Follow carrots through roof to chains. Third pitch (22): Beautiful headwall. Head straight up on carrots and cams (up to No.4 camalot) to mixed hanging belay just below slab. Fourth pitch (24): Fight your way up slab (trending right) using tiny under clings to easier ground and the top. Belay off big tree.

SDS at big hueco. Straight up. Probably harder now that the starting foothold has broken

The right most of the 3 route in the cave. Start under flake and up steeply to finish on lip.

A link up. From the 2nd clip on Eat This G-Man traverse right into White Chump and up from the third bolt.

The prominent arete with fixed hangers at the right hand end of the big orange rooves. Up the left side of the arete to a lower off at a ledge.

Same start as Tomorrow Boy. From the forth bolt step around to the right side of the arete and continue up the face past a carrot bolt and cam to a lower-off.

The undercut, grey wall right right of the offwidth crack. Around the roof, up the wall and top out.

10m left of 'Silk 'n' Steel'. The left line of bolts that goes through the cool, pocketed rock, the small roof and up the wall. Top out or lower off the last bolt.

Mini Lala Land

...or woman, of course. The low start to Agent Starlight adds a couple of moves. Shuffle into the cave to start low (see marked holds on photo) (right hand poor crimp, left hand small edge). Pull on, right hand to poor slopey pinch, left hand undercut, then go again to snatch the starting quartz crimps of Agent Starlight, finish up this (or better, do Crimpsino Guns)

The continuation of 'On Her Traverse-ty's Secret Service' along the quartz rail. After reaching the twin crimps at the start of Agent Starlight, keep going along the rail past a quartz spike, and a bottomless slot to gain the pinch in the crack of 'You Only Jam Twice'. Finish as for this.

Linkup: 'The Man With The Golden Guns' into 'Crimpsino Royale' combines the hardest set of moves on the crag.

Sit start and up obvious good holds to slight crux up top.

Most likely done before. If the FA has any information please update

Sit start on Arete as for Slice and Dice before moving up and left to finish as for Riptide

Obvious route just round the corner of the flat overhanging slab. Start on decent flat, left-hand side pull and right undercling gaston.

Sit start out L, quite a hard pull to slopers and slab.

Start on the R, and traverse all the way L (keeping low at the end), just past Shady Dayz then straight up past diagonal rail to topout past fronds.

From large jug on right to cool crimps out left on face, then airy topout. Fill hole in landing with pads... Classic!

Best looking line at the crag. Get onto left rising diagonal into steep open book corner. Fixed belay above.

Right line through small roof, large cobblestone sloper broke at lip while working the line.

Sit start matching on good big crimp. Move to left square pinch follow by a beautiful right traverse on crimps with spicy ending using pocket and little flakey crimp.

Up the slab at start to climb the orange rock up high with a traverse right below small cave, then up to lower off.

Climb the thin corner left of arete to a cave then finish via 2 bolts and a letter-box slot

A hard friable overhung start to Progressive Taxation. A difficult bridging start to surmount the overhang leads to a sustained wall, joining Progressive Taxation at it’s crux.

Start as for CC, then step right to arete and thin face. 1 RB, 4 bolts. Suggest set up anchor off tree and place bolt plates and quickdraws as you abseil in. Mantle onto ledge to finish.

The overhanging wall through bulge, then slab it up to top lower off.

The line of hex bolts up the middle of the main wall. Nice sustained climbing on some nice pockets. Just don't think about the origins of the holds.

Up scoops right of Avalanche in centre of buttress

Starting inside the small overhang straight up the face (avoiding the tree).

Tricky face moves up reasonable quality rock, the face left of CC. Stays in shade until midday.

Up corner to roof. From roof head out left on U bolts to shared anchor with Pete's route, may need some small cams after the roof to avoid a bad fall.

Start on the arete to finish on a tough move.

Same start as 'Cross Bred', go right though, to a sharper right mono pocket.

Start on the small platform, right undercling, left pinch, high right foot up the strange sequence. Avoid the platform if you fall!

A pumpy, strenuous, crimpy traverse test piece. Staying low is recommended. Often has a wet landing.

Sit start under the small roof then up the arete. Often wet at the start.

Up the middle of the slab, to mantle on the crimper, head left to top.

The left hand route. Tough start then some nice thin moves to top, anchor has 2 figure 8's through U bolt..

RIP Trent Lee 3/12/79-20/9/20. . . Trent looked at this line and after several attempts, gifted me (JJ) the line. Trent was a great guy and was always looking to his next adventure as well as being a gear pig. Thank you for the gift Trent, the name came as a thanks to Trent and a rhyming pun. From memory I think I flashed it, so it’s not a benchmark for the grade, enjoy the gift. . . . Bouldery start past a couple of bolts to ledge then more boulderyness to large break. Have a good rest here because it's your last one. The climb finishes at the top of the delicate wall 1.5m past the anchors.

Classic up the middle of the wall directly below anchors. Thin sustained climbing. Easily to diagonal then up through shallow scoops on right, then trend left to pocket.

Possibly the only sport route on Dolphin Walls! The wall directly above the abseil station on the halfway ledge, up past 6 fixed hangers.

Middle of right side ledge. Bouldery moves off the ground to get past past 2 FHs and up to undercling and a good cam. Move out left and up using side of block to get onto slab. Small cams and little wires protect moves to large break. At break traverse slightly left to get slopey ramp with a fixed hanger that has tricky moves overcoming bulge. Step right to finish up thin seam protected with small RP’s. Belay up and left on RB anchors. Stella Line!

The obvious face with the 2 ring bolts. Nice thin moves lead the way up this classic face. Continue out right under the small roof the cut back across left to top out.

Fixed hangers and rings. Starts 2m right of Vulcanian, 2m left of Toast, out independent line to join toast at it's last bolt.

Start as for Toast, clipping it's first ring, then head out left, out pipers new line to finish at Toast anchor... or keep going!

Start 5m from edge of cave, there is a hex bolt low if needed to start. Out horizontal roof, then directly up as angle eases to lower off.

Undercut start 2m right of Toast. Trends up and right to 2 ring bolt lower off. 6 ring bolts & 2 more 4 lower off.

Better rock and steeper moves can be found in this upper section of Troglodyte. Climb left then up forever from the anchors of pitch 1. Linking both pitches from the ground may not have been done yet?

A great line taking in the whole roof. Has a small cave a 1/3 of the way. Start at the back left hand end of cave, follow rings to first cave, then step out around stalactite and contine on what seems like a never ending roof.

The horizontal roof with a steep finish, move right to anchors.

Now re-bolted on U bolts. Route is aproximatly 50m south of the access track to Hoppy's Cave. May need a little cleaning. Starts at twin grass trees and trends left. Be careful of them when lowering.

Up the hanging arete with a tough start. Project tag still on due to loose block. Finishes on common anchors on top of block

The rock that is, used 4new drill bits. Great moves to nice easy finish on slab. The route that starts under the right leaning crack

Along the low flake past 2 hangers then up through bulges. It finises at last bolt, or continue up vegetation to shared anchors on top and rappel off.

The thin left route on the boulder down hill.

First bolt can be clipped from coming in from the high right side with care, but the climb starts down underneath on the ground. Scramble up the slab section below first bolt to ledge. Bouldery moves to get off the ledge to gain the blunt flake. 2nd clip is a little tenuous, then head slightly up and right to via a tricky sequence to get to 3rd clip, Techie moves out left to get to a balancy 4th clip, then up slightly right to get to a very hard clip at 5th draw. On pumped arms head up and left to gain vague but good flake, up and back right to get to 6th bolt. Easier ground to Cold shut and U bolt anchor.

Same start for the Fridge Thing, then awkwardly step left on ledge to 2nd bolt, use a long draw. Gingerly reach up to good jug at 3rd bolt. Crux can be done two ways, knee dislocator or double crimper. 4th ring was added after 1st ascent as a dogger. From 5th bolt head up slightly left then up to ring and then head up and right into diagonal crack system. Tricky moves and hidden holds lead to last ring. Step left and then straight up to anchors.