Grade | Route | Gear style | Popularity | ||
---|---|---|---|---|---|
Hornsby and the North Galston Gorge The North Cliff | |||||
17 | ★★ Climb Clean
No chalk. No bolts. No pro. Or a few bad cams and one micro-nubbin if you're bold. Some hard and interesting moves at the bottom and above. Top rope anchor from tree 5m back. Start: The arete 1m right of Healthy Habits. FA: Graham Dowden, 6 May 2017 | 11m | |||
Hornsby and the North Turner Road | |||||
22 | ★ Prow
Prow with twin SS glue-in carrot top anchors. Hard mantle to breaks, then headwall. | 7m | |||
17 | ★ TR1
Wide breaks then seam and pockets below twin SS glue-in carrots. | 7m | |||
18 | ★ TR2
Wide breaks then pocketted wall below twin SS glue-in carrots. | 7m | |||
Sutherland Bangor West | |||||
18 | Sleepy Snackdogs
Around the corner from Egg Rings. Grade due to the thin start. FA: Shauno & Ryan L, Jun 2018 | 7m | |||
12 | Rainman
Ok trad gear if you look including small cams and a little wire in the 2 vertical cracks, and big cams out left. Start: The ramp 5m left (facing cliff) of the descent gully. Out left and up. easy to set up top-ropes. | 6m | |||
Sutherland Sierra Road | |||||
17 | ★ VB Slab
Start right of 'Stay Alive', but instead of following the flake, just head straight up on a blank wall of nothing. Only been top roped... for now. FA: Cody Arts | 6m | |||
Sutherland Dickhead's Area | |||||
18 | Arse Master
worthless | 9m | |||
23 | Hot Shit
worthless | 12m | |||
21 | Leeches
worthless | 10m | |||
20 | Funk of Gunk
wothless | 10m | |||
North West Dural Top Teir | |||||
16 | ★ Klepto
Start 1m left of 'Little Tradboy in Boltland' at the small wall. Two long hauls for good breaks before the summit jugs. FA: Graham Dowden, 12 Aug 2016 | 6m | |||
16 | ★ Crypto
Start in in the middle of the small wall. Span the two opposing flakes on the way to summit jugs. FA: Graham Dowden, 12 Aug 2016 | 6m | |||
14 | Lepto
Start on the left side of the the small wall. Squeeze past tree up the orange arete on way to summit jugs. FA: Graham Dowden, 12 Aug 2016 | 6m | |||
North West The Hive Little Ideas Wall | |||||
Unknown
Top rope anchors over top of wall, if anyone has information about this climb, it would be greatly appreciated if they could share it here. | |||||
North West The Hive Slabs | |||||
Buzz Kill
Start in the same spot as Honeycomb, but head up the face of the flake instead. | 7m | ||||
14 | Honeycomb
Start at bottom left edge of the large flake beside Mud Slice and follow the edge of the flake up and right to lower offs. | 9m | |||
Northern Beaches Barrenjoey Southwest | |||||
25 | A (Open project)
The ridiculously steep groove on the boulder up in the trees to the west (behind and left) of Cranky. There are two toprope bolts but they are 20yo expansion bolts (inappropriate in sandstone) and should not be trusted. Set: Greg Andrews, 1996 | 8m | |||
Northern Beaches Barrenjoey North Palm Beach | |||||
18 | ★★ Peregrine Point
Hard moves off the ground to ironstone rim and past the rounded flake, then more easily up slab above. No pro. Thread and block belay. Start: on left end of slab 5m right of "Joker Hysterical Face" . FA: Graham Dowden & Angus M, 3 Jan 2017 | 8m | |||
13 | ★★ Kestrel Edge
Fine slabby arete right of New Moon and Eagle. No pro, top block and thread anchor. FA: Graham Dowden, 18 Feb 2018 | 8m | |||
Northern Beaches Narrabeen Slabs | |||||
19 | ★★ So Familiar
Between A and Quick Fang Down The Parkway. Start on nice right hand pocket and move up to left hand side pull. Crux move is here then continue straight up to anchors for 'A' Set: Phillip Booth | 10m | |||
North Shore Blues Point Life Aquatic Wall | |||||
★ Dislocation Levitation
Direct start to "Dislocate Then Elevate". Levitate to pocket, then pull past sidepull to upper wall. | 7m | ||||
17 | ★★ Ranger Dave Saves The Day
Carrots now in place for top roping. Safety line required to set up anchor. Perform a mantle between DDD and DS. Head left through the forest and hope that Ranger Dave is there to save the day if you can't commit to the crux. FA: | 11m | |||
18 | ★★ Dislocate Then Elevate
Carrots now in place for top roping. Safety line required to set up anchor. Start same as Dislocation Station - Climb up pocket filled area behind the park bench and move right along obvious ledge, slapping and smearing. At large, deep letter box, ascend straight up following drill line near top of the cliff. Big high ball, with little choss once you blow the dust off the holds. One of those climbs worth doing once to really get the heart pumping! Originally a V4 highball problem set by Ranger Dave. A big thanks to my BIC for permission to bolt his problem. Sharing the love! FA: | 5m | |||
16 | ★ 'Thar She Blows!
Carrots now in place for top roping. Starting as for PBTS, head straight on up like a whales spout. Finish by topping out. FA: | 13m | |||
16 | In a Sea of Sunflowers - Variant 1
Up Thar She Blows followed by traversing the very top of the cliff. Use the carrots along the cliff top to set up directionals when establishing the top rope. FA: Maddie Stevie, 26 Sep 2021 | 7 | |||
20 | ★★ In a Sea of Sunflowers - Variant 2
Up 'Tar She Blows' then traverse below the lip of the cliff. Use the carrots along the cliff top to set up directionals when establishing the top rope. FA: Brendon Flanagan, 30 Sep 2021 | 7 | |||
16 | ★ Short Arms and a Big Heart
Carrots now in place for top roping. Starting at Letterbox crack, climb straight up, link on to the edge of the cave and finish just above the corner of the cave (brownish water stained rock) Could be done as Boulder Problem if focused like a fox! FA: | 13m | |||
North Shore Middle Cove Harold Reid Reserve Middle Cove Crag | |||||
17 | ★ Like Christmas Morning
Start 5m right of Ept, just R of tree. Tricky start, staying away from flake till its top. Easily up slab. FA: Daniel Webster, 30 Nov 2014 | 8m | |||
16 | ★ Practice Your Mantle Part 4
Start: Beneath the big break 1m L of K. Make your way up to the break followed by a good introduction to slab. Finish the climb with an easy mantle up the arete. Shared DBB with K. Set: Brendon Flanagan, 2010 FA: Brendon Flanagan, 2010 FFA: Brendon Flanagan, 2011 | 10m | |||
24 | Time Warp
Start: Up centre of yellow wall. The BRs on this climb are well past their best. | 10m | |||
Unknown Project 2
Start: 1m right of UA up to DBB. | 7m | ||||
23 | Cold Chisel
Start: 2m L Unnamable Arete. This route as 2 BRs which are well past their best before date. | 7m | |||
North Shore Middle Cove Harold Reid Reserve Ranger Daves School Yard For The Gifted Climber | |||||
18 | The Most Fabulous Star
15 right, facing main wall. Short, overhanging, sustained. 2 x BR for top roping. Set: Siobhan Sullivan, 10 Aug 2019 FFA: Siobhan Sullivan, 13 Jun 2021 | 5m | |||
North Shore Middle Cove Harold Reid Reserve The Lookout | |||||
17 | ★ Crispy Thin Thing
Up edge of orange cave on very thin things. | 5m | |||
★ DAJ8
Start marked on left of grey wall. Old project with 2 chopped carrots. Crimps then very little. | 6m | ||||
8 | ★ Bumblarete
An easy pleasant excursion up the arete left of DAJ8. | 8m | |||
10 | Crispy Ridge
Up the rounded grey arete via giant ironstone holes and crispies. | 8m | |||
North Shore Middle Cove Harold Reid Reserve The Eastern Outpost | |||||
Unknown
Just right of WdiPaM? The steep, short, crimpy wall. Nothing is known about this route except that it has a single belay bolt above it and that it's tough! | 5m | ||||
North Shore West Roseville | |||||
17 | ★★★ Cats Underpants
Up the face beside a right facing flared corner crack. Move left around the arete and up face passing one questionable ring bolt in the process.Top rope off a tree back from the edge, careful not to get your rope wedged in the crack as it widens near the top. FA: Munch, 1994 | 7m, 1 | |||
North Shore St Ives Fragmented Heart The Graffiti Cliffs The Danger Zone | |||||
19 | ★ Helmets Required
Dyno Start to the low hanging jug, continue upwards and finish at the VIctory Jug. (Anchors have not yet been bolted. Top rope from trees above climb) FA: gabe dickinson & Lilu Worby-Baeten, 25 Sep 2021 | 9m | |||
20 | The Blundergat
Start on "Helmets Required", continue upwards and move right midway up the wall around the large feature. Finish is same as "Helmets Required" | 9m | |||
North Shore East Killara The Queen's Hang Out | |||||
14 | ★ Teabag Time
Mush easier than it looks. Overhang then delicately up right edge of the cave. FA: Graham Dowden & Angus M, 11 Feb 2018 | 5m | |||
15 | ★★ Sir Thomas Lipton's Restriction
A flared bottomless off-width. Perhaps not everyone's cup of tea, so shove whatever you've got deep into the pot and stir vigorously! FA: Graham Dowden, 11 Feb 2018 | 5m | |||
V1 | ★ Pukka Cuppa
Start: Bottom right corner of The Odd Ball boulder. A couple of delicate friction moves off the ground, then easily up the rest. Top rope anchor from bollard on top right, or rope slung over the top. FA: Graham Dowden, 11 Feb 2018 | 6m | |||
North Shore Wahroonga Browns Road Courtyard Area | |||||
K
Up Slab 1m right of FF | 11m | ||||
22 | ★★ K2
Up slab 1m left of SS. Looks like a reasonable line if it was cleaned and bolted. Any takers out there? | 12m | |||
23 | ★★ TC
Face climb left of Veronica. Looks to be in the high 20's | 10m | |||
North Shore Wahroonga Browns Road YKS Wall | |||||
17 | ★ S
Right of walk through chimney, Left side of slab on north end of block. Thin sharp but positive holds. Could do with 2 rings in it. | 10m | |||
16 | North Arete
Arete at northern (left) end of YKS wall with 2 TR carrots. Layback the twin crack features. To lead, maybe 18 with poor pro and a hard exit. | 5m | |||
North Shore North Wahroonga Wahroonga Rocks South West Wall | |||||
14 | ★ Wiggly Wall Won
Start: About 25m right of walk down steps below giant scribbly gum. Up left side of runnel on pockets and jugs. | 6m | |||
19 | ★ Wiggly Wall Too
Right side of runnel, a few stiff moves on overhanging sandy ledges, then easier orange jugs. | 6m | |||
V0 | Twin Trunks 1
Left side. Edges with slopy topout. | 4m | |||
14 | ★ Both Kinds of Climbing
This short corner offers a range of options, from the Layback to Offwidth. For three minutes of character-building, bring long pants, thick socks and a modicum of commitment. | 4m | |||
V0 | Gritty Slopes 1
Left side of wall. Easily up the edges. | 4m | |||
V1 | ★ Gritty Slopes 2
Left of seam via tenuous gritty slopes and hidden finger pockets. | 4m | |||
V1 | ★ Gritty Slopes 3
Harder than it seams! Up via the seam then exit through scoop. | 4m | |||
16 | TOB
Laybacks, pockets and slopy topout between OTB and crack. | 6m | |||
19 | OTB
Two rusty carrots, first at 3m. Crux involves secret holds and slopiness. | 6m, 2 | |||
15 | ★ Slots
1m Left of OTB. Two rusty carrots, first at 4m. Nice pockets and edges. | 6m, 2 | |||
Running Arete
| |||||
19 | DVP Directe
Straight from the initials then trend left to crank over the roof. | 5m | |||
17 | Right Side Runnel
Burly move out right and gaining stance, then easy climbing to the top. | 8m | |||
16 | ★ Left Side Runnel
| 8m | |||
North Shore North Wahroonga Wahroonga Rocks Abseil Wall/Main Wall | |||||
19 | ★★ Osso Buffo
Overhang on pockets, slab to second overhang, then a hard slopy finish up the prow. FA: Graham Dowden | 12m | |||
20 | PLAS
A line of manky old carrots, the first too high to prevent a ground fall at the first(?) crux, and the rest too rusty to trust. Kneebar the undercling and crank to glory and beyond. | 13m, 8 | |||
19 | ★ The Knob
Start at the light patch of wall. Good start an d up jugs to where the wall steepens. Climb up steep wall past the knob and then a long move to the top. Marked. | 14m | |||
17 | ★ DTER
Start at initials. Up slight overhang to ledge, then trend left and exit up runnel past old chopped Terrier (threaded sleeve) and later expansion bolt at the top. | 10m | |||
WWCD
single carrot belay | 8m | ||||
North Shore North Wahroonga Wahroonga Rocks The Farthest Point | |||||
5 | The Ramp
Up the obvious ramp to top. | 7m | |||
10 | The Corner
Up the right facing corner a few metres right of the ramp. | 7m | |||
12 | ★ The Wall
Wall 1m left of The Corner. Note that a very poor 8mm dynabolt appeared about halfway up this route at one stage. | 8m | |||
North Shore North Wahroonga Wahroonga Rocks Shady Side | |||||
20 | ★★ Ninety Degrees In My Shades
(Left-eyed variant) Start with finger-shredding locks on left side of runnel, then up via sharp edges to reachy topout crux move. (Right-eyed variant) Layback crack on right side of runnel until established on wall, then finish as for other variant. FA: Graham Dowden, 13 Aug 2017 | 7m | |||
North Shore Riverview Tambourine Bay Main Crag | |||||
10 | ★ Easy Street
8m right of FH, at left side of small cave. Gain the sloping ledge then climb to the top. Sloping ledge is covered with a thick layer of green moss. BB. Access to top of boulder. Solo or protect with cam in break. Hidden hold on the first ledge. FA: Ian Ryan, 2007 | 5m | |||
20 | ★ In the Groove
The first climb on the back wall, just right of a small suffering tree below a faint groove. A shoulder-wrenching move for tall people; shorter folk may need to be ingenious. BB at top. FA: Ian Ryan, 2000 | 7m | |||
21 | Cuchulinn
2m right of ItG, below a bulge at mid height. Fingery moves to gain a stance below the bulge. Climb this on the left. BB. FA: Ian Ryan, 2001 | 7m | |||
13 | ★ Musical Flakes
In the middle of the wall below a large hole. Climb up to this hole and then move left and up. A variant also exits right and up. BB. FA: Ian Ryan, 2001 | 7m | |||
19 | ★ Andraste
In slight groove 2m right of MF. Up groove to sloping holds and continue to top. BB. FA: Ian Ryan, 2001 | 7m | |||
20 | ★ Mananaan
1m right of A, below smooth wall. Gain a horizontal break then straight up. BB. FA: Ian Ryan, 2001 | 7m | |||
22 | Cruel Fate
Up VFTE to ledge then move down to reach holds on the wall below a horizontal break. Climb this wall to the top. BB. Direct start is worth 19. FA: Ian Ryan, 2001 | 10m | |||
22 | ★ Cruel Fate Direct
Climb the short crack to the ledge and follow Cruel Fate to the top. FA: ian Ryan, 2001 | 12m | |||
23 | Mission Impossible
Two toprope carrots are located above the middle of the wall facing the water, above a giant hanging flake. A desperate toprope problem. FA: Unknown | 10m | |||
20 | ★ Across The Void
At right side of the front face, below the overhang. Climb up to the overhang and exit this at its highest point. Climb diagonally left across the wall on improving holds. BB. FA: Ian Ryan, 2001 | 10m | |||
18 | ★★ Fumble High
Start on slab 1m right of ATV. Climb up the arete on either side. Toprope DBB. FA: Ian Ryan, 2001 | 10m | |||
18 | ★ K3
Arete 1m right of AtV. Up the arete. BB. FA: Unknown | 8m | |||
North Shore Riverview Tambourine Bay Riverside Slab | |||||
16 | ★ Hole in the Wall
Start below the middle of the slab, on the grassy landing next to the water. Climb through fragile bulges and gain the slab. Up to a hole and then awkwardly mantle onto the top. You can escape right at the hole for an easier climb (about grade 12). DBB anchors at top (reached easily for toproping by climbing up the flakes at the back) FA: Ian Ryan, 2001 | 13m | |||
18 | ★★ Tambourine Man
An excellent exercise of faith in friction. Start as per HITW and gain the slab in the middle. Move up staying left of the hole up high. FA: Ian Ryan, 2001 | 13m | |||
14 | ★ Can't See The Forest
Start as for HITW. Climb the short wall to the ledge and gain the slab at the left end. Climb steeply on good holds to top. DBB FA: Ian Ryan, 2001 | 13m | |||
15 | Riverside Ramble
Start on the ground at the left end, below the arete. Straight up via the large jug. FA: Ned Webster, Dec 2021 | 5m | |||
Eastern Suburbs Coogee North Coogee | |||||
12 | A
| 14m | |||
Eastern Suburbs Clovelly | |||||
17 | ★ Orange Slab 1
First line after the arete on the left. Blast up to the break if you're tall or move delicately up the slab. | 6m | |||
16 | ★ Orange Slab 2
To the left of the black streak | 6m | |||
17 | Orange Slab 3
Start in the hole and continue up the left side of the streak. | 6m | |||
17 | ★ Orange Slab 4
Start in the hole and continue up the right side of the streak. | 6m | |||
15 | ★ Orange Slab 5
Between 6 and 4, right of the black streak | 6m | |||
16 | Orange Slab 6
Last climb on the right of the slab, bulge on the arete is out. | 6m | |||
16 | Peter
Start 1m right of 'Sarah'. Up the flake then through the chossy roof with a hard sandy topout. Triple BR belay | 7m | |||
23 | ★★ Haemoglobin
Start 1m right of 'Peter'. The chipped boulder problem is under this route. Start with your hands in the break. Punk up and pull on blood-blister crimps up to sloped hold and top through the honeycomb roof. Balancy. Easier on the tall, rude to the short. You can do a fun boulder / toprope combo too by staying on lax rope and pads as you boulder from under the chipped cave then out and up the wall as your belayer kicks in. Three carrot anchors shared with 'DTD'. | 7m | |||
24 | DTD
Start 2m right of 'Haemoglobin' at chipped hold marked 'DTD'. Straight up from start hold, boost up to tiny finger pocket and friction balancing on blankness. Three carrot anchors shared with 'Haemoglobin'. | 7m | |||
22 | Disparity
Start 3m Right of 'DTD'. Straight up the arete from the block, and continue onto the slab. | 7m |