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Cook's County Guide

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Contributors

Thanks to the following people who have contributed to this crag guide:

Matt Schimke Mark Gamble Thomas Gissing Andrew Kraut Matthew Kievel Dave Westby Bruce Schneider Chris Baker Jake Forker

The size of a person's name reflects their Crag Karma, which is their level of contribution. You can help contribute to your local crag by adding descriptions, photos, topos and more.

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Table of contents

1. Cook's County 24 routes in Crag

Summary:
J
F
M
A
M
J
J
A
S
O
N
D

Seasonality

Mostly Trad climbing

Lat / Long: -26.395489, 153.116935

description

A small sandstone crag, with an easy access and a nice position. This place makes a great summer crag as there is almost always a breeze and is in the shade in the afternoon. Note that the routes on the right side of the cliff can not be accessed at high tide due to water flooding the area. All of the climbs require the belayer to find a suitable tree and bring up a second. Helmets are recomended for climber and belayer, as there is quite a bit of loose rock on the topouts.

approach

The cliff is located at the north end of Sunshine beach. Go through the back streets and along to the end of Seaview Terrace and park here. Head north along the beach to the headland. Either walk along the rocks to access or head up the obvious walking track up the hill and take the the track leading down to the cliff.

Routes are listed left to right.

© (Matt Schimke)

ethic

Remember that you are in a National park, don't litter, clean up any rubbish, don't disturb the wildlife and no bolting. It is essential that climbing in this area remains low key.

history

History: There used to be a route called Hungover Fisherman (19) that was on a pillar, but in a storm the pillar fell over so the climb no longer exists. Also with the pillar no longer there, the route 'No Horizontal Moves' is no longer contrived.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Austro-Canadian relations

Up the corner just left of TCC. Gear is sub-optimal, but at least it's easy. May have been climbed before listed fa

FFA: Matt Pelekanos & Christine Lethbridge

6 R Trad 10m
2 The Crazy Canadian

Climb up to the grassy ledge at half height, then blast up the black slab with the crack running up it.

FA: Oliver Rickford & Terry Forbes, 2010

11 Trad 12m
3 Ruby Tuesday

Starting just to the right of TCC, this climbs the blocky and steep arete. Climb up to ledge on right, then tackle the hard step accross move. From here to top.

FA: Matt Schimke

18 Trad 12m
4 Toast Hawaii

Up the slightly overhanging corner, plug in gear and then go up on jugs to a rest stance, then right and up to nice top out. Watch for loose blocks. May have been climbed before 2019.

FFA: Matt Pelekanos & Christine Lethbridge

18 Trad 12m
5 Dwarf Shortage

Start 2 metres to the left of Grommet on the slighly overhung face, with an attractive crack at the top. Climb the steep jugs until you pull onto a ledge. Put some bomber gear in then blast up the crack.

FA: Matt Schimke

18 Trad 12m
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
6 Grommet

Chossy climb/scramble up the corner. Some good gear if you want.

FA: Denise Crook & Mark Plenderleith, 1988

4 Trad 12m
7 Moon Tan

Climb the face 2 metres to the left of LH, the top has some exciting moves.

Starting below the left leaning crack offers the best protection.

FA: Michael Byrom & Alistair Byrom, 1988

13 Trad 12m
8 Lady Hawk

A good beginner lead with enough gear to keep the innocent happy. Start just to the right of arete, and follow weakness slightly left, before trending back right at the top.

FA: Michael Byrom & Alistair Byrom, 1988

12 Trad 12m
9 No Horizontal Moves

Climb up the slab using the horizontal slots. With the pillar gone it is no longer contrived as you cannot bridge on it. Might not have much gear as it was originally done on Toprope.

FA: Michael Byrom & Alistair Byrom

16 Trad 10m
10 Ashtrays Of Emotion

Climb the thin wispy crack 1m to the left of the arete to a ledge. Place some RP's in left trending crack and continue to top.

FA: Mark Plenderleith & Denise Crook, 1988

16 Trad 12m
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
11 Leave The Cripple At Home

Start on the flat rock at the bottom of the arete, pull on the jugs. Get to ledge and blast up on sidepulls and gastons. Quite serious, as there is no gear in the top half. Originally a TR climb.

FA: Alistair Byrom & Michael Byrom

21 R Trad 12m
12 Al's Garage

A short problem to get you warmed up.

Start: Start under Mike and the Mechanic on two jugs. A few fun moves and your done. Finish by matching on the high jug, your feet should only be a foot above the ground.

FA: Oliver Rickford, 2010

V0 Boulder 3m
13 Mike And The Mechanic

Start just to the right of arete in steep bulgy crack. Climbs this untill trending slightly right into the Mambo Man crack corner at the top.

FA: Mike Cook & Frank Egyed, 1988

21 Trad 12m
14 Mambo Man

Climb the left trending jug haul just to the right of MATM, then straight up into a small corner. Look for the small hanging flake at half height. Not much gear in the first half.

FA: Ian Harrison & Mark Plenderleith, 1988

21 Trad 12m
15 Fagends Of The Aristocracy

Takes the obvious right facing corner above the start of Mambo Man . A bit contrived but if you manage to resist stepping right onto Twisted Sister it has an exciting conclusion.

FA: Ian Harrison & Mark Plenderleith, 1988

20 Trad 12m
16 Twisted Sister

Climb the slightly overhung crack corner, 1 meter to the left of BTTB.

FA: Mark Plenderleith, Ian Harrison & Denise Crook, 1988

16 Trad 12m
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
17 Washed away

Campus Problem.

Start at BTTB on crimp, then campus right along the ledge.

FA: Oliver Rickford, 2010

V0 Boulder 4m
18 Bad To The Bone

Starts 2 meters to the left of Pipeline at crackline. Follow this to top.

FA: Mark Plenderleith & Denise Crook, 1988

16 Trad 11m
19 Pipeline

Start 1 meter to the left of Cardiac Arete. Follow crackline on brilliant rock to cruxy bulge, then topout to tree belay to the left.

FA: Frank Egyed & Mike Cook, 1988

16 Trad 12m
20 Cardiac Arête

Climb obvious arete just to the right of Pipeline.

FA: Frank Egyed & Mike Cook, 1988

19 Trad 12m
21 Fortune Favours The Fuckwit

Contrived, straight up the grey wall on the right side of Cardiac Arete to a large break, up right onto ledge. From here to top.

FA: Mark Plenderleith, Michael Freemantle & Ian Harrison, 1988

20 Trad 12m
22 Break Dance

The beautiful crack corner just to the right of FFTF. Some loose rock on the top out.

16 Trad 12m
23 Redgarten Wall

Straight up the red wall to the right of BD.

18 Trad 12m
24 Seaside project

As close as you can get to the water. Thin.

Unknown 10m

2. Index by grade

Grade Stars Name Style Pop
4 Grommet Trad 12m
6 R Austro-Canadian relations Trad 10m
11 The Crazy Canadian Trad 12m
12 Lady Hawk Trad 12m
13 Moon Tan Trad 12m
V0 Al's Garage Boulder 3m
Washed away Boulder 4m
16 Ashtrays Of Emotion Trad 12m
Bad To The Bone Trad 11m
Break Dance Trad 12m
No Horizontal Moves Trad 10m
Pipeline Trad 12m
Twisted Sister Trad 12m
18 Dwarf Shortage Trad 12m
Redgarten Wall Trad 12m
Ruby Tuesday Trad 12m
Toast Hawaii Trad 12m
19 Cardiac Arête Trad 12m
20 Fagends Of The Aristocracy Trad 12m
Fortune Favours The Fuckwit Trad 12m
21 Mambo Man Trad 12m
Mike And The Mechanic Trad 12m
21 R Leave The Cripple At Home Trad 12m
? Seaside project Unknown 10m
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