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Little Cove πŸ„πŸΌβ€β™‚οΈπŸ„πŸ½β€β™€οΈ Guide

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Contributors

Thanks to the following people who have contributed to this crag guide:

Lekki Lekki H Harvey Cutler Michael Byrnes Crosby Rechtin David Shin Larissa Botelho

The size of a person's name reflects their Crag Karma, which is their level of contribution. You can help contribute to your local crag by adding descriptions, photos, topos and more.

Table of contents

1. Little Cove πŸ„πŸΌβ€β™‚οΈπŸ„πŸ½β€β™€οΈ 24 routes in Area

Summary:
J
F
M
A
M
J
J
A
S
O
N
D

Seasonality

All Bouldering

Lat / Long: -26.384557, 153.094899

summary

Fun little wall just to the left of the stairs when walking down from Little Cove entrance. Most of the climbs are sit starts as the wall isn’t super tall. Sand bottom so it’s safe to climb. Note,

description

This crag is close to the water and is tide/sand dependent. Sometimes there is a lack of sand making the climbs taller thus making sit starts > standing starts. Enjoy!

approach

Head down the stairs at Little Cove and head left. Easy to see.

ethic

Please be noise aware as there are houses directly above. Please do not leave rubbish and be respectful.

RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
1 Mantel training right - sand depending

Sit start. Right and left hand match on crimpy edge on middle of the block. Left foot heel hook and mantel over. Fun and short. Must grab middle of the jug at the top for grade send.

V0 Boulder 1m
2 Mantel training left - sand depending

Sit start. Left hand and right hand match on sloper holds to the far left. Right foot heel hook then mantle over. Fun and short. Must grab middle of the jug at the top for grade send.

V1 Boulder 1m
3 BPT

Sit start on crimps. Work you way up the juggy goodness.

FA: Lekki Lekki & H

VB+ Boulder 2m
4 Sandy crack

Sit start. Next line to the left of BPT. Work way up the side pulls and top out.

FA: Lekki Lekki & H, 16 Jun 2023

VB Boulder 2m
5 Crab Boy πŸ¦€

Sit start. Pull up into the under cling. Grab the top then right foot heel hook over the lip to finish with a mantle. Be careful.

V2 Boulder 3m
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
6 Too cool for a legrope.

Sit start. Work way up side pull crack. Top out. Yell at those too cool for leg ropes.

FA: Lekki Lekki & H, 16 Jul 2023

VB Boulder 3m
7 Rocks are our friends

Sit start.Move up to sticking out boulder. Good holds on both sides which makes you hug the rock. Work way up and top out.

FA: Lekki Lekki & H

V0 Boulder
8 Sand chose

Sit start. Work way directly up. Big boulder jugs on right are out. Top out.

FA: Lekki Lekki & H

V0 Boulder 3m
9 Probably pretty easy

Nice traverse from sloper start which is the beginning of Bush Turks.

FA: H & Lekki Lekki

V1 Boulder 5m
10 Bush Turks

Start two hands in the sloper slot and work your way up from there to top out finish. Big move at start then eases off dramatically.

FA: 16 Jul 2023

FA: H & Lekki Lekki, 16 Jul 2023

V1 Boulder 3m
11 Crimpy Mc CrimpFace.

Not a sit start. Left hand start on knobby looking rock with white dot on it. Right hand start on shared sloper with bush turkz. Left hand side wall is out. Go straight up and top out.

FA: H & Lekki Lekki

V1 Boulder 3m
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
12 A side pull too far πŸ€·β€β™‚οΈ

Two hand match on broken part of rock side pull. Double feet below hands on ledge. Then move left to the letter boxes. Keep going left and top out over the mega horn at the top of β€œeyes wide closed”.

FA: H

V1 Boulder 3m
13 ArΓͺte-d Development

Sit start. Hands and feet on the textured arΓͺte, side walls are out!! . Straight up and top out. Watch the middle holds as they are quite sharp.

FA: Lekki Lekki & H

V3 Boulder 3m
14 So I hear you like Deadpoints?

Sit start again… you’ve got three side pulls. From the 3rd and 2nd launch to top to grab a mega two handed jug. Fun times!

FA: Lekki Lekki & H

V2 Boulder 3m
15 Sounds of the ocean

Sit start. Right on pinch block, left half crimp just next to it. Left hand gastone and shoot up for the two letter boxes, then dead point to the top and out you go!

FA: Lekki Lekki & H

V2 Boulder 3m
16 Sand in my eyes

Sit start. Right hand on pinch which is directly next to a small gap in the wall. Left hand on bulge next to it. Rest is up to you. Just get to the top.

V3 Boulder 3m
17 Eyes wide closed

Sit start at the base of β€œsnake hole”. Left hand on under cling which is entrance to β€œsnake hole”. Right hand on sloper block. Bump right to shared start with β€œsand in my eyes” and then head up. Finish over mega horn block and top out. Toe and heel hooks are important for this one.

V4 Boulder 3m
18 Snake hole

Don’t worry, it’s not really a snake hole. (As far as we know).Sit start. Look for the deep hole under lip the, get about fore arm deep and fist off width lock off to start. Eases off after you get to the jug about half way. Top out.

V2 Boulder 3m
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
19 Toes before hoes

Start with both feet on the ledge in the cave. Right hand to high right ledge before toes toes toes.

FA: H & Lekki Lekki, 8 Oct 2023

V1 Boulder 3m
20 Soft and sharp

Sit start with the undercling horn. Work way directly up from there sidewalls are in. Top out finish.

FA: Ike

V0 Boulder 3m
21 The H special πŸ‡¨πŸ‡¦πŸ

Start sitting with two hand match on undercling horn to the right. Work your way up and traverse left over lip and straight up to mantle finish. A nice line.

V3 Boulder 4m
22 Oh no my towel!

Sit start. Same double hand start as β€œSandy Streak”. Work your way right through under clings before hitting crimper followed by the pinch block. Bump up to sloper slot then find the nice jug just above. Finish with a top out.

Anything on Sandy streak line is OUT. (Except for start hold).

V5 Boulder 3m
23 Sandy streak

Sit start at the obvious juggy hole and work your way up the sandy streak - feet anywhere, hands only on the sandy streak. Top out to finish.

FA: Dunquan, 27 Sep 2023

V3 Boulder 3m
RouteGradeStyleSelected ascents
24 Traverse warm up easier option

Traverse warm up. Stay on the high line for jugs and good foot options. Careful of brittle rock on top. Start at β€œBPT” and finish at β€œSandy Streak”

V1 Boulder 30m

2. Index by grade

Grade Stars Name Style Pop
VB Sandy crack Boulder 2m
Too cool for a legrope. Boulder 3m
VB+ BPT Boulder 2m
V0 Mantel training right - sand depending Boulder 1m
Rocks are our friends Boulder
Sand chose Boulder 3m
Soft and sharp Boulder 3m
V1 A side pull too far πŸ€·β€β™‚οΈ Boulder 3m
Bush Turks Boulder 3m
Crimpy Mc CrimpFace. Boulder 3m
Mantel training left - sand depending Boulder 1m
Probably pretty easy Boulder 5m
Toes before hoes Boulder 3m
Traverse warm up easier option Boulder 30m
V2 Crab Boy πŸ¦€ Boulder 3m
Snake hole Boulder 3m
So I hear you like Deadpoints? Boulder 3m
Sounds of the ocean Boulder 3m
V3 ArΓͺte-d Development Boulder 3m
Sand in my eyes Boulder 3m
Sandy streak Boulder 3m
The H special πŸ‡¨πŸ‡¦πŸ Boulder 4m
V4 Eyes wide closed Boulder 3m
V5 Oh no my towel! Boulder 3m
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