A Crag Guide gives an extensive view of all sub areas and climbs at a point in the index. It shows a snapshot of the index heirachy, up to 300 climbs (or areas) on a single web page. It shows selected comments climbers have made on a recently submitted ascent.
At a minor crag level this should be suitable for printing and taking with you on a climbing trip as an adjunct to your guidebook.
This guide was generated anonymously. Login to show your logged ascents against each route.
Warning
Rock climbing is extremely dangerous and can result in serious injury or death. Users acting on any information directly or indirectly available from this site do so at their own risk.
This guide is compiled from a community of users and is presented without verification that the information is accurate or complete and is subject to system errors. By using this guide you acknowledge that the material described in this document is extremely dangerous, and that the content may be misleading or wrong. In particular there may be misdescriptions of routes, incorrectly drawn topo lines, incorrect difficulty ratings or incorrect or missing protection ratings. This includes both errors from the content and system errors.
Nobody has checked this particlular guide so you cannot rely on it's accuracy like you would a store bought guide.
You should not depend on any information gleaned from this guide for your personal safety.
You must keep this warning with the guide. For more information refer to our:
Usage policy
Contributors
Thanks to the following people who have contributed to this crag guide:
Lekki Lekki Dunquan H Harvey Cutler Michael Byrnes Crosby Rechtin David Shin Larissa Botelho
The size of a person's name reflects their Crag Karma, which is their level of contribution. You can help contribute to your local crag by adding descriptions, photos, topos and more.
Table of contents
- 1. Little Cove ππΌββοΈππ½ββοΈ 24 in Area
- 2. Index by grade
1. Little Cove ππΌββοΈππ½ββοΈ 24 routes in Area
- Summary:
-
All Bouldering
Lat / Long: -26.384557, 153.094899
summary
Fun little wall just to the left of the stairs when walking down from Little Cove entrance. Most of the climbs are sit starts as the wall isnβt super tall. Sand bottom so itβs safe to climb. Note,
description
This crag is close to the water and is tide/sand dependent. Sometimes there is a lack of sand making the climbs taller thus making sit starts > standing starts. Enjoy!
approach
Head down the stairs at Little Cove and head left. Easy to see.
ethic
Please be noise aware as there are houses directly above. Please do not leave rubbish and be respectful.
|
||||||||
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
1 |
★ Mantel training right - sand depending
Sit start. Right and left hand match on crimpy edge on middle of the block. Left foot heel hook and mantel over. Fun and short. Must grab middle of the jug at the top for grade send. FA: Lekki Lekki | V0 | 1m | |||||
2 |
★★ Mantel training left - sand depending
Sit start. Left hand and right hand match on sloper holds to the far left. Right foot heel hook then mantle over. Fun and short. Must grab middle of the jug at the top for grade send. FA: Lekki Lekki | V1 | 1m | |||||
3 |
BPT
Sit start on crimps. Work you way up the juggy goodness. FA: Lekki Lekki & H | VB+ | 2m | |||||
4 |
★ Sandy crack
Sit start. Next line to the left of BPT. Work way up the side pulls and top out. FA: Lekki Lekki & H, 16 Jun 2023 | VB | 2m | |||||
5 |
★ Crab Boy π¦
Sit start. Pull up into the under cling. Grab the top then right foot heel hook over the lip to finish with a mantle. Be careful. FA: Harvey Cutler | V2 | 3m | |||||
|
||||||||
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
6 |
★ Too cool for a legrope.
Sit start. Work way up side pull crack. Top out. Yell at those too cool for leg ropes. FA: Lekki Lekki & H, 16 Jul 2023 | VB | 3m | |||||
7 |
★ Rocks are our friends
Sit start.Move up to sticking out boulder. Good holds on both sides which makes you hug the rock. Work way up and top out. FA: Lekki Lekki & H | V0 | ||||||
8 |
★ Sand chose
Sit start. Work way directly up. Big boulder jugs on right are out. Top out. FA: Lekki Lekki & H | V0 | 3m | |||||
9 |
★ Probably pretty easy
Nice traverse from sloper start which is the beginning of Bush Turks. FA: H & Lekki Lekki | V1 | 5m | |||||
10 |
★★ Bush Turks
Start two hands in the sloper slot and work your way up from there to top out finish. Big move at start then eases off dramatically. FA: 16 Jul 2023 FA: H & Lekki Lekki, 16 Jul 2023 | V1 | 3m | |||||
11 |
★ Crimpy Mc CrimpFace.
Not a sit start. Left hand start on knobby looking rock with white dot on it. Right hand start on shared sloper with bush turkz. Left hand side wall is out. Go straight up and top out. FA: H & Lekki Lekki | V1 | 3m | |||||
|
||||||||
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
12 |
★★ A side pull too far π€·ββοΈ
Two hand match on broken part of rock side pull. Double feet below hands on ledge. Then move left to the letter boxes. Keep going left and top out over the mega horn at the top of βeyes wide closedβ. FA: H | V1 | 3m | |||||
13 |
★★ ArΓͺte-d Development
Sit start. Hands and feet on the textured arΓͺte, side walls are out!! . Straight up and top out. Watch the middle holds as they are quite sharp. FA: Lekki Lekki & H | V3 | 3m | |||||
14 |
★★ So I hear you like Deadpoints?
Sit start againβ¦ youβve got three side pulls. From the 3rd and 2nd launch to top to grab a mega two handed jug. Fun times! FA: Lekki Lekki & H | V2 | 3m | |||||
15 |
★★ Sounds of the ocean
Sit start. Right on pinch block, left half crimp just next to it. Left hand gastone and shoot up for the two letter boxes, then dead point to the top and out you go! FA: Lekki Lekki & H | V2 | 3m | |||||
16 |
★★ Sand in my eyes
Sit start. Right hand on pinch which is directly next to a small gap in the wall. Left hand on bulge next to it. Rest is up to you. Just get to the top. FA: Lekki Lekki | V3 | 3m | |||||
17 |
★★★ Eyes wide closed
Sit start at the base of βsnake holeβ. Left hand on under cling which is entrance to βsnake holeβ. Right hand on sloper block. Bump right to shared start with βsand in my eyesβ and then head up. Finish over mega horn block and top out. Toe and heel hooks are important for this one. FA: Lekki Lekki | V4 | 3m | |||||
18 |
★★ Snake hole
Donβt worry, itβs not really a snake hole. (As far as we know).Sit start. Look for the deep hole under lip the, get about fore arm deep and fist off width lock off to start. Eases off after you get to the jug about half way. Top out. FA: Lekki Lekki | V2 | 3m | |||||
|
||||||||
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
19 |
★★ Toes before hoes
Start with both feet on the ledge in the cave. Right hand to high right ledge before toes toes toes. FA: H & Lekki Lekki, 8 Oct 2023 | V1 | 3m | |||||
20 |
★★ Soft and sharp
Sit start with the undercling horn. Work way directly up from there sidewalls are in. Top out finish. FA: Ike | V0 | 3m | |||||
21 |
★★ The H special π¨π¦π
Start sitting with two hand match on undercling horn to the right. Work your way up and traverse left over lip and straight up to mantle finish. A nice line. FA: Harvey Cutler | V3 | 4m | |||||
22 |
★★ Oh no my towel!
Sit start. Same double hand start as βSandy Streakβ. Work your way right through under clings before hitting crimper followed by the pinch block. Bump up to sloper slot then find the nice jug just above. Finish with a top out. Anything on Sandy streak line is OUT. (Except for start hold). FA: Lekki Lekki | V5 | 3m | |||||
23 |
★★ Sandy streak
Sit start at the obvious juggy hole and work your way up the sandy streak - feet anywhere, hands only on the sandy streak. Top out to finish. FA: Dunquan, 27 Sep 2023 | V3 | 3m | |||||
|
||||||||
Route | Grade | Style | Selected ascents | |||||
24 |
★★ Traverse warm up easier option
Traverse warm up. Stay on the high line for jugs and good foot options. Careful of brittle rock on top. Start at βBPTβ and finish at βSandy Streakβ FA: Lekki Lekki | V1 | 30m |
2. Index by grade
Grade | Stars | Name | Style | Pop | |
---|---|---|---|---|---|
VB | ★ | Sandy crack | 2m | ||
★ | Too cool for a legrope. | 3m | |||
VB+ | BPT | 2m | |||
V0 | ★ | Mantel training right - sand depending | 1m | ||
★ | Rocks are our friends | ||||
★ | Sand chose | 3m | |||
★★ | Soft and sharp | 3m | |||
V1 | ★★ | A side pull too far π€·ββοΈ | 3m | ||
★★ | Bush Turks | 3m | |||
★ | Crimpy Mc CrimpFace. | 3m | |||
★★ | Mantel training left - sand depending | 1m | |||
★ | Probably pretty easy | 5m | |||
★★ | Toes before hoes | 3m | |||
★★ | Traverse warm up easier option | 30m | |||
V2 | ★ | Crab Boy π¦ | 3m | ||
★★ | Snake hole | 3m | |||
★★ | So I hear you like Deadpoints? | 3m | |||
★★ | Sounds of the ocean | 3m | |||
V3 | ★★ | ArΓͺte-d Development | 3m | ||
★★ | Sand in my eyes | 3m | |||
★★ | Sandy streak | 3m | |||
★★ | The H special π¨π¦π | 4m | |||
V4 | ★★★ | Eyes wide closed | 3m | ||
V5 | ★★ | Oh no my towel! | 3m |