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Little Cove πŸ„πŸΌβ€β™‚οΈπŸ„πŸ½β€β™€οΈ All Bouldering 24 routes in area

24
BLDV
VBVB+V0-V0V0+V1V2V3V4V5

Seasonality

J
F
M
A
M
J
J
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D

Summary

Fun little wall just to the left of the stairs when walking down from Little Cove entrance. Most of the climbs are sit starts as the wall isn’t super tall. Sand bottom so it’s safe to climb. Note,

Description

This crag is close to the water and is tide/sand dependent. Sometimes there is a lack of sand making the climbs taller thus making sit starts > standing starts. Enjoy!

Approach

Head down the stairs at Little Cove and head left. Easy to see.

Ethic

Please be noise aware as there are houses directly above. Please do not leave rubbish and be respectful.

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Routes

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1
V0 ★ Mantel training right - sand depending Boulder 1m

Sit start. Right and left hand match on crimpy edge on middle of the block. Left foot heel hook and mantel over. Fun and short. Must grab middle of the jug at the top for grade send.

FA: Lekki Lekki

2
V1 ★★ Mantel training left - sand depending Boulder 1m

Sit start. Left hand and right hand match on sloper holds to the far left. Right foot heel hook then mantle over. Fun and short. Must grab middle of the jug at the top for grade send.

FA: Lekki Lekki

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3
VB+ BPT Boulder 2m

Sit start on crimps. Work you way up the juggy goodness.

FA: Lekki Lekki & H

4
VB ★ Sandy crack Boulder 2m

Sit start. Next line to the left of BPT. Work way up the side pulls and top out.

FA: Lekki Lekki & H, 16 Jun 2023

5
V2 ★ Crab Boy πŸ¦€ Boulder 3m

Sit start. Pull up into the under cling. Grab the top then right foot heel hook over the lip to finish with a mantle. Be careful.

FA: Harvey Cutler

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6
VB ★ Too cool for a legrope. Boulder 3m

Sit start. Work way up side pull crack. Top out. Yell at those too cool for leg ropes.

FA: Lekki Lekki & H, 16 Jul 2023

7
V0 ★ Rocks are our friends Boulder

Sit start.Move up to sticking out boulder. Good holds on both sides which makes you hug the rock. Work way up and top out.

FA: Lekki Lekki & H

8
V0 ★ Sand chose Boulder 3m

Sit start. Work way directly up. Big boulder jugs on right are out. Top out.

FA: Lekki Lekki & H

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9
V1 ★ Probably pretty easy Boulder 5m

Nice traverse from sloper start which is the beginning of Bush Turks.

FA: H & Lekki Lekki

10
V1 ★★ Bush Turks Boulder 3m

Start two hands in the sloper slot and work your way up from there to top out finish. Big move at start then eases off dramatically.

FA: 16 Jul 2023

FA: H & Lekki Lekki, 16 Jul 2023

11
V1 ★ Crimpy Mc CrimpFace. Boulder 3m

Not a sit start. Left hand start on knobby looking rock with white dot on it. Right hand start on shared sloper with bush turkz. Left hand side wall is out. Go straight up and top out.

FA: H & Lekki Lekki

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12
V1 ★★ A side pull too far πŸ€·β€β™‚οΈ Boulder 3m

Two hand match on broken part of rock side pull. Double feet below hands on ledge. Then move left to the letter boxes. Keep going left and top out over the mega horn at the top of β€œeyes wide closed”.

FA: H

13
V3 ★★ ArΓͺte-d Development Boulder 3m

Sit start. Hands and feet on the textured arΓͺte, side walls are out!! . Straight up and top out. Watch the middle holds as they are quite sharp.

FA: Lekki Lekki & H

14
V2 ★★ So I hear you like Deadpoints? Boulder 3m

Sit start again… you’ve got three side pulls. From the 3rd and 2nd launch to top to grab a mega two handed jug. Fun times!

FA: Lekki Lekki & H

15
V2 ★★ Sounds of the ocean Boulder 3m

Sit start. Right on pinch block, left half crimp just next to it. Left hand gastone and shoot up for the two letter boxes, then dead point to the top and out you go!

FA: Lekki Lekki & H

16
V3 ★★ Sand in my eyes Boulder 3m

Sit start. Right hand on pinch which is directly next to a small gap in the wall. Left hand on bulge next to it. Rest is up to you. Just get to the top.

FA: Lekki Lekki

17
V4 ★★★ Eyes wide closed Boulder 3m

Sit start at the base of β€œsnake hole”. Left hand on under cling which is entrance to β€œsnake hole”. Right hand on sloper block. Bump right to shared start with β€œsand in my eyes” and then head up. Finish over mega horn block and top out. Toe and heel hooks are important for this one.

FA: Lekki Lekki

18
V2 ★★ Snake hole Boulder 3m

Don’t worry, it’s not really a snake hole. (As far as we know).Sit start. Look for the deep hole under lip the, get about fore arm deep and fist off width lock off to start. Eases off after you get to the jug about half way. Top out.

FA: Lekki Lekki

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19
V1 ★★ Toes before hoes Boulder 3m

Start with both feet on the ledge in the cave. Right hand to high right ledge before toes toes toes.

FA: H & Lekki Lekki, 8 Oct 2023

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20
V0 ★★ Soft and sharp Boulder 3m

Sit start with the undercling horn. Work way directly up from there sidewalls are in. Top out finish.

FA: Ike

21
V3 ★★ The H special πŸ‡¨πŸ‡¦πŸ Boulder 4m

Start sitting with two hand match on undercling horn to the right. Work your way up and traverse left over lip and straight up to mantle finish. A nice line.

FA: Harvey Cutler

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22
V5 ★★ Oh no my towel! Boulder 3m

Sit start. Same double hand start as β€œSandy Streak”. Work your way right through under clings before hitting crimper followed by the pinch block. Bump up to sloper slot then find the nice jug just above. Finish with a top out.

Anything on Sandy streak line is OUT. (Except for start hold).

FA: Lekki Lekki

23
V3 ★★ Sandy streak Boulder 3m

Sit start at the obvious juggy hole and work your way up the sandy streak - feet anywhere, hands only on the sandy streak. Top out to finish.

FA: Dunquan, 27 Sep 2023

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24
V1 ★★ Traverse warm up easier option Boulder 30m

Traverse warm up. Stay on the high line for jugs and good foot options. Careful of brittle rock on top. Start at β€œBPT” and finish at β€œSandy Streak”

FA: Lekki Lekki

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Selected Guidebooks more Hide

Queensland Bouldering

Author(s): Jimmy Blackhall & David Jefferson

Date: 2021

ISBN: 9377779499658

Hidden within the ordinary people of Queensland there exists a tight-knit community of scabby knuckles, grazed knees, massive forearms and iron-clad wills. This guidebooks seeks to shed light on this community and blocks of choice with all the information, skills and knowledge to open the door for you to explore all the bouldering that Queensland has to offer.

-5% Buy
β“˜
South East Queensland Climbing Guide

Author(s): Simon Carter

Date: 2018

ISBN: 9780958079068

A few years ago there was basically Frog Buttress and Coolum. Since then there has been more development than Barangaroo and South East Queensland should be on any climbers radar no matter what your style. Except ice climbing, definitely no ice climbing. But over 1250 routes with hard sport, multipitches and quality trad to make a great trip.

Buy
β“˜

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Lekki Lekki on ★★ The H special πŸ‡¨πŸ‡¦πŸ V3 - PXL_20230927_060456147.MP.jpg

Sat 29 Apr
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