Routes as boulder in Middle Cove

A core strength loving slap and smear traverse with great holds and a slight over hang

Sit start at the far left of the wall, straddling the rounded arete.

Pull up to the top of the rock and without letting your feet touch the ground, slap and smear your way to the right

Staying on the ledge lines at the top of the wall move right until you at the far arete.

love the easy arete up for the top out.

Reach and endurance required!

A slap and smear traverse that is half the length of Long The Bison Roam

Sit start at the far left of the wall, straddling the rounded arete.

Pull up to the top of the rock and without letting your feet touch the ground, slap and smear your way to the right

Staying on the ledge lines at the top of the wall move under the second peak roughly 4m along the rock and top out

A basic sit start good for practice and warm ups

Sit start 3m from the left rounded arete with your fingers jammed into the horizontal crack about 1m off the ground.

Crank up to the ledge above and top out using the peak slightly to your right

An easy V2 with some good throws and a trickier top out

Sit start 1m right of STRRF using the right most section of the crack

Once off the ground throw to the edge above and then move right till your under the second peak.

Using the 3-4 holds above mantle up

Love it

Start in the cave on the lowest jug. Make your way out left, around the arete and top out.

Start in the cave on the lowest jug. Make your way up with some nice crimps along the way and top out. Very nice flake over the top to help with the top out.

Same start as Project 5.

Go up to the crimp rail from the cave and make your way right to a good crimp to top out. The crimp left of the cave from Project 5 and Project 6 is out.

Vid: Richard C

Start on lowest jug in cave.

Climb your way under and around, topping out the same way as Project 5.

Very satisfying toehook sequence.

Link Pants Up Hands Down! into the second half of Hands Up Kookaburra!

Same start as Long The Bison Roams. Make your way through the crack and finish up the far right arete. The top of the rock during the traverse is out.

Currently feels impossible to traverse out of the crack unless someone else can figure it out

A one move boulder problem.

Right hand on a good side pull and left in a shallow two finger pocket located right at the end of the crack. Left foot on a bit of a buldge above the tiny cave under the boulder.

Slap to the peak above and top out.

Same start as Shorties Lament but the flat crimps above the ledge are in.

Sit start with left foot on the obvious point under the boulder and right heel in the 'L' shape jug.

Left hand begins on slightly awkward crimp with middle and ring finger sitting higher than index finger (May need a bit of feeling around to find it). Right hand on the straight white ledge.

Pull off the ground and locking off the left arm, reach for the slopey crimp. Make your way to the hand sized pocket (All the other random pocket holds above are out) and top out over the peak.

Same sit start as the original.

From the slopey crimp reach out right to a pinch hold and walk feet over to reach a pocket located around a sloper hold. Top out using anything to the right of the pocket.

Link Stem Junior 2 into Project 6.

Some nice back and forth movement around the arete.

Everything above the pinch and pocket level are out on the starting face of the rock. The top peak of the arete is out.

Vid: Richard C

Link Hands Up Pants Down! into Kookaburra Attacked My Girlfriend.

Solid holds in good places

Sit start at the left most place of the boulder. Move up and to the right to top out next to the Arete.

A good first move for beginners to the world of Sit Starts

A powerful problem requiring some body contortions and a committing left hand!

Sit start under the corner of the featured wall and the overhang with a left foot up high. Some solid moves up the arete, topping out via the overhang.

Resist temptations for a easy hunt - The slaby wall to your right is out of bounds for hand or foot!

super tough project inside the open book.

A strong sit start followed by a ledge loving traverse and over hanging top out

Start on the rounded holds of the right most part of the boulder. Use a high right foot to leaver your self off the ground and throw your left hand to the ledge

Follow the ledge to top out via the over hang and arete

Start 1 meter right of SFC. Using the two deep scoops to start, head up and tend right to top out above the right hand scoop.

The first FA of the crag. Facing the corner make your way up by bridging between the left and right boulder

Around the next corner from WMRDG is a round, bulgy face. Climb up it, staying towards the centre.

Well, not that lovely, but OK. Seated start on the side pulls just left of the crack about 15m right of LSF. Move left and up, finishing leftwards.

The right side of the crack. Hands on right only. Nice knee bar!

Starting about 2m left of Spider Stairs and about 0.5m right of gully. Straight up using nice side pulls.

Starting 0.5m left of Spider Stairs, straight up through a series of pockets and holds.

The most unique feature of the crag. Starting to the left of the arête using the evident head high break as the start. Tend right and follow the evident line of jugs to the top. A V1 that gets the heart pumping!

A beautiful problem! Starting about 3m right of Spider Stairs. The right side of the same scoop. Up groovy lay aways.

Start up Spider Stairs till mid height, then finish up Scorpion Stairs.

Start up Scorpion Stairs and finish up Spider Stairs.

A beautiful problem mingling balance, dedication and problem solving

Start 3m right of Spider Stairs by semi mantling the chest high ledge up to a delicious side pull. Traverse your way along to the right using gastons, crimpers, side pulls and underclings till all holds above you disappear and you are forced to follow the holds down.

Finish by walking off the right most section of the problem after working through two challenging crux's

A pleasure at any time of the day!

In the middle of the blankish face is a fine right leaning line. Mantle the bulgey start then go up the line heading rightish using the crimp.

About 3m left of the cave. Up using good holds to stance, then using crimp move up to take slopey edge then top.

Starting 0.5m left of cave. Up the cave's left edge bearing leftwards.

Start in the middle of the cave, up to obvious incut, then move left to groovy holds and over.

Start in middle of cave. Up to obvious incut then straight over. Holds on left only in for feet.

On the first wall you walk past, about 3m before the first corner. Up on sharp crimps before moving right to good ramp and up. Nice.

Corner crack avoiding the walls.

Left arete of high front face on its left side, moving leftwards at top to finish. Great.

Not many Sydney climbs can claim to be fully enclosed, but if you want sub-meter chimney in the semi-underworld this has it all.

Start: Behind the face climbs, or walk down from above.

Compress into it at any number of places, with or without petrophilic flora and overhangs, to your personal taste.

Same arete, but climb it on the right side.

Start about 2m left of right arete on front face. Up through flakes to top flake and over. Hint: Look right over the lip, and don't fall!

Right arete on its right side, moving rightish towards top, but topping out left of the crack.

Starting at arete just left of wide crack (good for decent). Roughly follow the crack that goes diagonally left to top, but finish on right side of crack.

Start at same arete, but go straight up. Stay left of wide corner crack.

About 8m left of LO there's a slab in the corner with a rail running across is. Traverse this right to left then climb arete.

Grab the rail of LIAS and move straight up the face. Good.

Start on the low rail as for Somme climb, traverse right through the shallow roof of Mini Sub to finish on the obvious iron ore horn on the arête.

A sketchy Traverse about 5 meters long, make sure you have a buddy to spot you. The rock is super crumbly so place your feet and hands wisely.

Start with hands on large moss covered feature far left. Traverse across with feet underneath, climb either into cave or go over the top. From there there is a solid ledge sticking out of the outside of the cave which can be used as either a foot hold climbing back down or a solid hand hold. Continue until you can no longer climb.