Routes as boulder in Lindfield Rocks

Go down towards the right of the trail boulders and follow the wall. Start on the long diagonal flat surface (about stomach/chest height) on the middle of the boulder. Go straight up top out right above the start holds. Clean as much as possible. Put up more routes around this area if possible.

Start in the corner jug, move to left hand undercling/jug STRAIGHT TO THE EDGE, rock up and out

Sit start on same hold as other climbs but going straight to lip from large undercling.

Starting on bulge traverse leftwards through roof to top out.

Sit start on jug and make way up and right

Starting on the low rail up rightwards through to top out.

OPEN PROJECT. To the left of 2, left arete. Not sure if doable or a route. Undercling, up to the rail, kneebar, right side pull until a pocket, slopers to top out

Behind 1: Cave start, traverse left, gaston, undercling then go up jugs

Start matched in the break below the two pockets, go directly up.

Starting on bulge head upwards using small crimps.

Starting matched in pocket go directly upwards using small crimps.

Offwidth to the right of '4' not quite big enough to chimney. Chicken Wing your way to victory

Go straight up the thin face. Both aretes are in, holds on the face past the arete to the right are off, and the cliff to the left of the gap is off.

Start in the two leftmost pockets and go dynamically up. Large break and arete are off.

Start in pocket on red streak and 2-finger pocket to the left of that. Go directly up.

Sit start and straight up

Sit start on pockets and straight up

nondescript

Not so much a boulder problem as a dirty grovel under the arete

Narrow line up the right of the arete.

Easiest line up the arete, started using the incut pocket

Right hand in the incut pocket, straight up.

Left hand on an ironstone crimp in the centre. Right to an obvious incut pocket and up

Right hand on the incut crimp, grab small sidepull for left and desperately up

Just right of the tree. Grab two small crimps and crank on up

Start as for '8', on the edges. traverse right into the start of '5' and up.

Traverse the little wall from right to left. Stay below the top. This is the hard extreme right hand start of The Lindfield Traverse Complet.

Sit start on arete and make way straight up using tiny crimp

Sit start on crimps and make way upwards

To the left of traverse #1's block is a small buttress. Climb this directly without using the sides

Sit start and follow up pillar using whatever holds.

On the wall proper, layback the right arete

Right hand in the big sidepull pocket, feet up high and dyno for the top

Undercling the breaks to the left of '4', and either crimp or dyno to glory.

1/2m to the right of the obvious discontinuous crack feature is a small pocket. Off this to very crimpy stuff above

Excellent little problem, up the obvious hanging crack

If you can jamb, there is a bomber finger lock, if you're a Gym Junkie - have fun!

Crimpy stuff to the left of Discontinuous crack

It's a crack so try to jam - if you can't jam you can use use the holds on either side of the crack

Left of the big crack, on positive edges and pockets

The left arete of 'Walkdown Wall'

The most common start for the Lindfield Traverse is '3'. Move left staying low. Move slightly higher at the arete for the second section of the traverse.

The Complete Lindfield Traverse, starting at '3' on Walkdown Wall and finishing in the cave of The Overhang. A great way to warmup for those harder problems.

Has been broken down into 9 (yes, 9), shorter traverses:

'The Lindfield Traverse - 1'

'The Lindfield Traverse - 2'

'The Lindfield Traverse - 3'

'The Lindfield Traverse - 4'

'The Lindfield Traverse - 5'

'The Lindfield Traverse - 6'

'The Lindfield Traverse - 8'

'The Lindfield Traverse - 9'

'The Lindfield Traverse - 10'

Hands-free up the trackside staircase, doubles as descent route

Up the narrow face. No sides

Layback the right arete of the boulder face.

Smearing up the overlaps left of the arete

Take care not to use the chip for your foot. or deduct a grade.

There's a trick to this one. Up the next set of overlaps.

Again, avoid the chipped foothold.

Start as for #5, but go straight up avoiding the large holds on the right

Layback and undercling the long overlap to the finish of #5

Up the overlaps using a flexy flake at the top

Up using the vertical overlap above the white polished slab. Slopey edge near top.

Layback the next overlap along, diagonally right.

Start on low broken undercling, then deviously attain the face and the good holds therein

From broken undercling, reach/slap the sloping lip, then over and up using the right arete

Same as '12' except both aretes are off.

Again from the broken undercling, traverse left below slopey lip and get established round on the left side of the block

Andrew Unsworth

As if any more classics could be found on the glorious Kenny Boulder! From common undercling start, trend up and across slopers to same exit as "13" on left of boulder when looking at problem.

Freedom Day's burlier older brother, and a problem of truly quality moves. Same start and exit, but the right arete is off. Gain the sloper and hang on for a ride! (In the grey area of V6/7)

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-OdfaJS9gpo

Start standing on the left side of the block. Drop down and traverse the slopey nose to end up on the right side.

Anti-clockwise traverse of the boulder (stays below top). Hard traverse on the back end of the boulder.

Traverse The Nose then right and down through overlaps to link up with problem 7.

Traverses the block (Hermit's Cave) right-to-left staying just below the top

Start on footholds on left edge of front of boulder, traverse right, and top out up crack in the middle, all hands-free.

No hands problem: two very high steps straight up the middle of the path side.

From around the arete head for the corner avoiding the block.

To the left of Walkdown Wall is a slabby wall often used as a descent

Up the middle of the slabby wall. Commonly used as a descent route.

Thin seam on the right hand side of the wall.

Eliminate all face holds and climb the seam by finger-locking and a tips layback

Fierce little ironstone crimps just left of the seam.

Left hand sloper, right hand knifeblade. Grit your teeth and pull. Knifeblade is bigger than it used to be!

Right hand sloper, up on small holds. Sidepull to the left is off.

Just right of the crack. Plenty pockets and edges

The layback crack. Layback on its right side or jam it.

Straight up this buttress, staying out of the cracks.

The twin crack system.

Bold face to the left of '8 - Twin Cracks'.

Tricky finger crack. Do it pure for the full tick, else wimp out onto actual holds.

Excellent juggy face. Do it! Can be done with 3 dynos!

The slanting crack

The face to the left, crimpy ironstone. The left side of the face is slightly thinner and harder.

Start on the big shelf in the corner, squirm up avoiding the right face

Grab the break and mantle it to reach a pockety sidepull 1.5m above.

Between arete and corner eliminating the break and big pocket.

Starts high at the end of The Downclimb Slab. Drop down to the middle of the wall near problem 4 - feet on the obvious horizontal break. At the left hand end pop onto the shelf and scramble onto Abseil Wall without touching the ground or using the tree.

The corner crack at junction of Four Cracks Wall and Abseil Wall - used to be a common descent route. Bridge and lay back your way down or up!

Starts behind the tree on the right. uses underclings and a large rounded flake. Trend left near the top

Climb to and past the obvious square window.

Between the window and the dog leg crack, squeezed in.