Routes in North Shore for selected grade

Super Classic Problem. Helps to do yoga before (especially the Extended Lateral Angle Posture) Sit start at Red Cheeked and move up to the top of the scoop before heading left to the little side pulling crimper. Finish with both hands on large ledge in Salute to the Sun Posture. Repeat.

The positive matchstick edge crimps left of TOCAC crack. Avoid the crack until the holds truly run out, then sidepull the top 40cm block at the top of the crack to finish. Start wherever you can, options converge quickly. Sit-start also possible. Currently doable (Sep 2021) but the top metre a bit obscured by branches.

Starting just left of Monkey Magic, on the wall right of the obvious vertical crack line (Fingers Full of Steel), Use the angled crimpers, while avoiding the holds of Monkey Magic and climb up the face, scarce with holds. Finish with both hands on the sandy ledge common to the other climbs

Super fun, challenging climb. Sit start left of vertical drill line, using two gaping holes. Move right and up to finish with your head touching the manky roof. Pivoting, smears, laybacks and slaps makes this a truly intricate, technical climb.

If you don't mind Beta - check out this 3 star wonder here - http://youtu.be/81_X2kNe1Xo

Matthew Ritchie

Starting on the left of Bruce Lee just before the Peeking Patch Jurrassic Root, you should see a pocket and a sidepull. Sit start on those two starting holds and traverse to the finish of Bruce Lee.

A beautiful climb with minimal holds requiring some dedicated core strength and balance. For all lovers of laybacking!

At the sharp arete of the first slab you come to, start on the left side, using the corner and its features to reach the top. The holds are predominantly on the left of the arete but the climb utilises the holds on the right face within 30cm of the arete.

Balance, Dedication and a satisfying finish!

• Historical FA: Unknown
• Documented FA: Ranger Dave Archer, 2013

From the left arete, move 2m right and up for a fun time and desperate top.

The route starts on "The Sandy bay roof" V6. Follow the line that is going right until you reach the end of the good hand holes then jump on the big jug of the v4 "Roadkill" (jug just above Roadkill's start). Then follow the Roadkill line. This is a link-up. It is an "endurance boulder" with a decent rest in the middle.

Slide deep into the back of the cave to start on an undercling. Move out to buttress via powerful moves (and yes, it's super low-ball roof).

Start both hands on the juggy hold under the lip. Climb directly outwards towards the road around the most overhung section of rock. Continue over the ledge to standing, and finish by topping out directly above.

Awesome jug hauling up the stunning overhanging prow leads to a crimpy, 'easy yet somehow desperate', exit. Start low and stay true to the prow. A picturesque must-do classic.

Variant: Use a few higher jugs on the left and take a couple of grades off - still fun.

Start low with your hands on the big reverse layaway, then slap up the overhanging arête to finish on Jump and Mantle (the big sandy foot ledge is on).

Start as for 7 then traverse left before climbing up via the big pocket.

Start as for problem #8, but walk the ledge rightwards and finish on the jug on the arête (or higher up if you wish). Stretchy, balancey, and good fun.

In the middle of the boulder to the left of Three storey Rock, go up the right tending flake, then leave the flake to go left passing two slopey crimpers and top out as for Stick Your Foot In.

Initialled, further down track. Up past BR on orange rock.

Crag classic. Heel and toe hooks to a topout.

Sitstart.

Climb the left side of the bulb, left of the groove.

Cool! The left side of Cair Paravel boulder. Start with one hand in the low scoop and one on the arete. Follow the rising arete with poor feet. Not over the top till the top!

Right side of Cair Paravel boulder. Start at left end of scoop with underclings. Gain good hold over lip (under little overlap). Over and up.

Start at the base of the ramp on the right arete. Sit start, moving awkwardly up the ramp. Then up and left to a good horizontal line. Follow it till established on face. Then rightwards up the round arete.

The obvious arete 6m right of Homeless. Maybe v3, but a grade added for head space.

Start as for HPH. Just after the historic chipped holds, move over the lip.

Start as for Super Tramp. Over lip and escape around left. Bad landing.

Starting in the little cave at the bottom of the other long block. Yes, behind the black pipe. Sit start. Over lip and then easily up and right all the way up the block, only using the lip just before the tree. Don't fall at the top!

Start on crimps, move up and left, move right along overhung arete, mantle the left hand side of the overhang.

A powerful problem requiring some body contortions and a committing left hand!

Sit start under the corner of the featured wall and the overhang with a left foot up high. Some solid moves up the arete, topping out via the overhang.

Resist temptations for a easy hunt - The slaby wall to your right is out of bounds for hand or foot!

Start: 4m L of EOL. Up, directly through roof to big 'pillow' hold. Chain lower off set back on left. Rebolted.

Start just R of Z. Up, passing three (recently replaced) ring bolts and a long reach. Stay out of the crack! Belay is two somewhat hidden carrots on ledge at chest height.

Start: Up centre of yellow wall.

The BRs on this climb are well past their best.

Start: 2m L Unnamable Arete.

This route as 2 BRs which are well past their best before date.

Well, not that lovely, but OK. Seated start on the side pulls just left of the crack about 15m right of LSF. Move left and up, finishing leftwards.

Starting 0.5m left of Spider Stairs, straight up through a series of pockets and holds.

In the middle of the blankish face is a fine right leaning line. Mantle the bulgey start then go up the line heading rightish using the crimp.

About 3m left of the cave. Up using good holds to stance, then using crimp move up to take slopey edge then top.

Grab the rail of LIAS and move straight up the face. Good.

Start on the low rail as for Somme climb, traverse right through the shallow roof of Mini Sub to finish on the obvious iron ore horn on the arête.

Middle route on final poxy face. Jump to pod, then up, right to rest, and rightwards at final bolt. Hard crux sequence if you're short!

Extension of Aria and probably the best route at the crag. Start as for Aria, clip third bolt with a long draw. Move right then up flake and slopers to double RB lower off. Five bolts in total, 4 of which are BR's.

Stand start on undercling, head left and up to top out.

A great little climb in the backyard of the North Shore!

Start: Marked "24 Thunderbird". The first climb you reach after the walk down on the far left of the crag.

Over chossy undercut onto balancy, slabby face (1 carrot, 1 FH) up to old blue sling on RB. Out to lip of roof 1 carrot and 1 fixed hanger. Then go diagonally through roof passing 2 ring bolts. Ignore previous route info this is how the route is done.

Start just right of crack on big jug and left of Deal with it. Crux at top.

OPEN PROJECT. To the left of 2, left arete. Not sure if doable or a route. Undercling, up to the rail, kneebar, right side pull until a pocket, slopers to top out

Easiest line up the arete, started using the incut pocket

Just right of the tree. Grab two small crimps and crank on up

Start as for '8', on the edges. traverse right into the start of '5' and up.

Traverse the little wall from right to left. Stay below the top. This is the hard extreme right hand start of The Lindfield Traverse Complet.

Undercling the breaks to the left of 4, and either crimp or dyno to glory.

The Complete Lindfield Traverse, starting at 3 on Walkdown Wall and finishing in the cave of The Overhang. A great way to warmup for those harder problems.

Has been broken down into 9 (yes, 9), shorter traverses:

The Lindfield Traverse - 1

The Lindfield Traverse - 2

The Lindfield Traverse - 3

The Lindfield Traverse - 4

The Lindfield Traverse - 5

The Lindfield Traverse - 6

The Lindfield Traverse - 8

The Lindfield Traverse - 9

The Lindfield Traverse - 10

Start as for #5, but go straight up avoiding the large holds on the right

Eliminate all face holds and climb the seam by finger-locking and a tips layback

Left hand sloper, right hand knifeblade. Grit your teeth and pull. Knifeblade is bigger than it used to be!

Straight up this buttress, staying out of the cracks.

Bold face to the left of '8 - Twin Cracks'.

Grab the break and mantle it to reach a pockety sidepull 1.5m above.

Climb to and past the obvious square window.

Up past a bullethole pocket to finish on crimps.

The blankish runnel in the middle of the wall

Start on the right, move onto the arete itself, then back on the right.

Thin moves up the black wall just left of the arete.

The left side of the black wall. Still thin but apparently jug heaven compared to '2'.

Centre of the wall, aiming for the ironstone "horseshoe' crimps high in the middle. Very, very good.

A tough part of The Lindfield Traverse Complet. Undercut sandy footholds are off.

Thinly up the centre of the wall on mostly positive holds.

Starting in the chimney on the right. Desperately up the wall using small and slopey crimps

Start with your left hand in the slot and lunge for the high slopey pocket.

Starting in the layback flake, traverse left keeping feet low to the arete.

The easiest way across is to bridge across the back of the gully and traverse high on the wall. The hard way is to stay low and link Corals with '16'.

Choose your conditions; the slopers are far from positive and dry, cold conditions could make all the difference

Start just left of the undercling, laying away on two small pockets about 1m apart

Up the overhanging orange streak in the middle of the wall. Desperate and has a bad landing.

Left of the descent gully, below the tree is an intense little one-mover. Up the center of this little wall. The tree root is off!

The testpiece of the wall. 'Required' qualification for the Lindfield Hardman badge. Scene of chip/fill shenanigans in the past. Classic. Chips have recently been filled in (Aug 2017).

To the right of 'She-Oak Crack' is a thin seam. Climb it.

Step across the descent gully to The Small Blank Wall, downclimb The Offwidth then traverse low across the wall to the top of The Golden Triangle and step across to The Overhang. This is probably the crux of The Lindfield Traverse.

Alternatively traverse high across The Blank Wall and drop down at the end which is much easier.

Drop a plumb line down from the centre of the face and follow this through line through the overhang.

Traverse left to right under the orange roof, finishing up the headwall or off right.

Start matched on the lower left rail and dyno way up into the slopey slot, continuing as 'The Overhang'.

Mentioned in the Sydney Bouldering Guide as having been done many times over but not recorded as a route there.

Contrived. Start: Undercling the large flake and go straight up to a match with both hands in the thin break.

First of the up problems, from the big sandy footledge move out via two reasonable slots to finish up and right.

Just left of the two-hand feature in the middle is a good sized undercling. Start here and head out to a small slot above Pipe Dreams. From here, left to a sloping slot, right hand good pocket, top.

About 20m to the right of the next problem. Start on the right of the cave's lip, and traverse out left.

Far left (looking in) is a decent sized cave. (More problems here?!) Start on the nob and a crimp below the hole (lorikeet nest) with feet in big break. Up to hole, then left to good holds before rounding lip to ramp. Finish just below the moss and drop off.

Sit start just left of the orange streak. Follow ramp til onto arete. Dive right for orange jug under roof. Up and over roof.

Same start as "Vienna Frankfurther", except the arete above the starting holds are off.

Sit start with right hand on the gaston, and left hand on the crimp directly left of it. Join up with "Re-heated Hotdog".