Routes in Australia for selected grade

Out through big roof in the main cave. Downgraded to 24 in recent guide.

Start: Beneath L side of Melville's Cave. Then the thin wall above.

Left-hand finish to Sagittarian (Grade could be suspect ).

Steep crack 6m left of 'Sickle' to break, then move R and up past a bolt, onto easier ground.

After the crux on 'Little Thor', continue straight up instead of scuttling off left. Take a bolt bracket.

Up weakness 8m right of 'Steps Ahead' to first bolt. Go slightly right to second bolt and hard moves lead to pin. Finish up right.

From the finish of 'Problematic', traverse L across the top of the wall under small roof-line with a piton, 2 BRs (take brackets), then over rooflet and left past a slung knob for pro.

Start: as for 'Problematic'.

Follow the wide crack the whole way up.

Start right of Asteroids, head up to small V in overhang below bolts. Follow bolts through bulges, then 2 bolts trending right through head wall to shared anchor with 'Hyperspace Bypass'.

Beware loose block. Adequacy of pro is unknown. Join 'Nothing Too Serious' at the top.

Start 3m R of NTS, just L of tree.

Start on arête up and left past bolt up to break 3cam then straight up to top of head wall small wires, then finishing out right on arête and up to high anchor

The arete.

Start 2m R of 'Thimble'.

Arete with poor pro.

Start 3m R of 'Petronius'

Caveat emptor!

Start: Start in the cramped gully, up L of 'Hunger'.

Bridge, then into seam with 1 bolt and 1 piton. Double rings on ledge.

Start: Start on the R wall of the gully L of 'Light Fingered'.

Scary face with stacked blocks, then wall and arete.

Start: Start 2m R of LF.

The middle of the buttress, no wimping off the direct line.

Start: Start R of CLC.

Flakes to BR then R and up.

Start: Start 10m R of 'Feel It Closing In'.

This pair's additions at 'Werribee Gorge' see a lot more love than these obscure numbers.

Start: Start 10m L up the gully from IaLD.

Pull through the start of 'Luxury Item' then L along the horizontal line to the arête. Up the arête past a bolt to a ledge and double glue-in lower-off anchor.

Fiddly pro initially. Step R at 15m to find the rap anchor above 'King Rat'. Apparently the "awesome" continuation up the chossy headwall is yet to be done - knock yourself out.

Start: Start beneath the grey wall which separates 'King Rat Gully' Left Fork and Right Fork.

Climb Glory Rodent until through the crux. Traverse L to jug on arete and good medium wire above. Climb arete direct, watch out for rope drag or use doubles. Extra grade just for the extra effort required... it's not really any harder than GR.

The rotten flake then the bulge to pull R into the flake, belay on R. Carrot has been replaced by a bolt

Start: Start R of KR.

Straightens out and significantly improves Kookenhagen. Easily up the line for a few metres then pull up left around the overlap past a bolt runner and up the line above (Kookenhagen stays lower and keeps traversing left).

Fingery moves. The original crap bolts were replaced in 2003.

Start: Start R of FB, beneath the huge chockstone above the gully.

The blank wall right of 'Catcher' starting 3 or 4 metres right of that climb. 1 carrot and 1 FH. A hold may have broken and may be more like 27 now.

A heady lead. From the ground, the upper half of this route may look like a straightforward pleasant crimp ladder, with its rows of appealing parallel horizontal edges; it's best not to expect the route to deliver on that expectation.

Stick clip U-bolt. Take a running jump off the end of the ledge and leap for the jug. Simultaneously, get your belayer to take in about 5 metres of slack however seems apt. Then climb the crack.

Start: Start off the R end of the ledge.

Originally supposed to stick-place a #2 hex to protect the monster jump-start. As usual there is more than one level of shade here. Originally the nut was placed and then used for aid to place a backup. Finally Mikl has put in a sensible bolt.

Start: Start as for TOR.

Link up of Skydiver to Sustained Metaphor. Start up Skydiver until the horizontal weakness at about 8m. Go L along this to the groove on Sustained Metaphor, and up this to the top. Great sustained climbing.

Start: Start 1.5m R of S.

1. 18m (23) Up the RH corner, then 2 bolts to double bolt belay.

2. 12m (21) L almost to arete, then up just R of arete.

Up BM to it's first bolt. Head right to another bolt, some hard moves and finally BM's anchor.

Louise's description is worth repeating in full! "Why pay a shrink to talk about your problems when you can do a new route and tell the whole world for free?"

Start: Start in the cave L of CC.

The bolts flex alarmingly and need to be replaced.

As for EE but span L to the jug on the prow and up the prow to finish.

Start: Start as for CC.

Up the seam, joining the last 3m of 'Entangled'.

Start: Start 8m L of 'Entangled'.

Great second pitch for 'Astral Plane' or just approach from the hole leading to the ledge of 'Pilot Error'.

Start: Start atop 'Astral Plane'.

Bridge to gain short crack, bolt, then right and up, bolt and finish on a larger crack at top. Has had a rap anchor added.

Start: Start high in the gully on the right hand or main wall looking into the gully, at a stone step towards the back.

The thin dogleg crack behind dead conifer.

Start: Start on the wall below 'Kryptonite Krack'.

Prance up the inverted trench, exit L.

Start: Start beneath the main diagonal crack through the steep bulge.

Short thin crack with very tough start. L along break to exciting juggy finish.

Start: Start R of S.

Finish direct.

Start: Start as for AF.

Bouldery.

Start: Start off boulder underneath roof.

Amazing how many people commandeer the blunt end on a bold route! Start R of C roughly in the middle of the wall.

Start just R of C. Boldly up face to bolt.

While this is very nearly a sport route, it's important to place gear past the last bolt to avoid a nasty swing into the slab if you fall off the crux.

Start: Start as for 'Cassandra Direct'.

Up the middle of the face - no pro. Stay L of the arete (which is taken by the upper part of It'll Never Fly). It is 19 but probably no easier (!!) to take a flying leap across the chasm from Cassandra's 1st belay to the halfway break!

Start: Start on the R wall of the gully, opposite PW.

Thin steep face then traverse left to arete. Up arete (#2 BD cam) to lower-off.

Start: Just left of 'Orestes'.

You can climb all of pitch 1 and the good bit of pitch 2 in a single mega pitch, then step left to the anchor of 'Afterburner'. It's a great shame that this new anchor wasn't placed 2m to the R on the front of the arete, as this would have allowed the leader to clean their own gear, but as it is someone will need to second if you do this extended version.

Start: Start at the big corner on the Flight Deck.

1. 20m (23) Up corner to piton and continue stemming, after sustained bridging, to the big white blob of rock, hand traverse right past piton to belay stance and rap anchor. The loose LHV to this pitch goes L from the top of the corner to a ledge, back R over difficult bulge via shallow groove, then exits L.

2. 20m (19) From ledge move back left and up corner crack to top, walk off.

Very unbalanced in grade with a hard start. The top wall could be a nice direct finish for 'Surface To Air'. Was a bit controversial in its day for no good reason other than who put it up.

1. 15m (24) Boulder past bolt and up to join Surface to Air. Belay to protect the second.

2. 20m (20) Continue up Surface to Air butthen take the wall up right into a groove and on to the jugs.

As for Muldoon for 10m to the cave, then steeply out to slot, and up L into crack. Best descent is to use the Fail Safe DRB, otherwise continue up Muldoon to its rap anchors.

Start on the L side of Collision Course Wall, at the top of the V-slot the trail takes, beneath a short L curving flake. Up flake for 12m to cave, then R and blindly through bulge to another cave. Finish up any other route to get off. Poor rock and gear.

Reachy. An old route that starts as for FF to the 2nd FH then keeps traversing across to CC. Superseded by FF.

An exciting face climb that is very sustained. Start as for WoI, and move left at the FH. Up past 2nd FH then back R to a 3rd FH then loweroffs (30m).

Start up inside the Agamemnon chimney, 1m L of a thin crack on the R (NW) wall. Tough move at BR then up L to short crack.

Not as good as it looks unfortunately, and the bolts are hard to clip. Start a few metres R of E, and 1m L of T.

Up Telemachus's crack then straight up the arete above to stance. Step L below red patch and straight up the middle of the buttress to the top. Good gear at crux then run-out on easier ground.

Reachy.

Start: Start 4m L of SD, below little gumtree poking out of cliff.

Up face, over pocketed roof, then up R to hole.

Start: Start under the arch.

Polished face, with 1 BR which is scary to clip, and a scary finish.

Start: Start 2m R of SDV.

Up the patch of orange rock, 2 BRs.

Start: Start on the tiny outcrop which is downhill from 'Steel Delinquency' Pinnacle, and which faces the same way.

The speckled face which may have a fixed wire. Start up around L of FP.

Flake, L past PR into small techie corner on arete. Finish L up flake or straight up. The direct start is 23 with a BR, and uses the original footholds as handholds. Start at the L arete of the FP pinnacle, 2m L of TT.

Start 8m R of Tubby Tuba. Up fragile looking flakes to join Iron Void. Gear may be suspect.

Start off the boulder and L and up the great face which swallows heaps of small wires - if you have the stamina to find the placements! You can also approach the same line by doing the reachy start of IVV.

Fingery up to BR, R across SO, and up past 2nd BR. Start up L of SO.

BR, then bold to overhang and 2nd BR. Go 4m up L then straight up. The direct finish goes slightly R from 2nd BR to 3rd BR. Start in gully L of F.

Not well protected, a serious lead. Up Private Detective to seam (about 4m), diagonally left across face and up just right of arete.

Follow the seams straight up from the start of Cadenza to the break, then finish up Cadenza. Take care as gear is hard to see and place.

A good pump in the Organ Pipes? Start left of Diapason, 2m right of Ejaculation, beneath obvious overlap.

Start at the left side of the Red Wall. Bridge up gully (G String) to clip bolt. Up blunt arete past another bolt to join Wyrd, up corner and flake. L at bolt to jugs, up thinly past another (bolt, not jug) to rings.

Start just right of Wraith. Great moves on thin face, cruxy past second bolt. Finish straight up or traverse L to finish up The Wraith or Tannin.

Lovely line that has been inadvertantly retroed. The obvious line on the left wall.

Up obvious crack stepping right, up, then right again.

May start as for Mark You've Changed and then provide a direct finish to that climb. Or MYC may be just left of this. Needs another look.

Start at the lefthand of the flakes leading to the inverted V.

Up the obvious right facing flake then right ward on thin holds to a balance crux passing a bolt, then up to the anchor.

Start 3m right of Mind Games. The seam, then join the finish of Beautiful Loser.

First 24 at Araps but otherwise a bit underwhelming. Start just R of Hyaena. Straight up then follow the R-leading diagonal.

Pretty much a separate route - straight up to the finish of Horrorscope.

Start in the gully R of Bam Bam, on the L wall. Thin crack to ledge.

The seam.

Start: Start on the L side of 'Wuss Wall'.

Start beneath the appealing finger crack in the orange wall.

Saunter on up.

Start beneath the proud steep buttress forming the highest part of Wailing Wall.

Slightly daunting start leading into the crack, then pump up the power to reach left into the next crack weakness. Up this to large pockets, then finish up and left.

Start beneath the RH crack.

Up the RH groove to it's finish, go up R to a mantle, then the face and the L-most corner.

Up to horizontal, left 1m, then reach to flake on bulge and up.

Start: Start 1m L of H.

Where strapping stumbled off left into easier ground, step right, past bolt and direct to the top. Enough spice to make you think.

The flared handcrack.

Start: Start 4m L of DF.

The vague line, needing small wires. Go R to arete at about half height, after which it eases substantially.

Start: Start 1m R of DF.

Links the middle section of Polygap into the top of Evans Above via the obvious higher traverse. Reach left from the stance on Megalomaniac to clip first and second bolts of Polygap then head up, verring slightly leftwards. Traverse left via tricky underclings and smears to join Evans Above where it steepens. Twin ropes and or long slings are handy.

Start R of Megalomaniac. Up unprotected blank wall (23) to join Power Crazy for 3m, then R on poor slopes to join a line through the bulge.

Apparently this route had a peg, however that appears to have fallen out (the missing peg shouldn't stop you from getting on it though!). Take lots of #1 RPs. Often mossy, may need a brush. Start 2m R of Devoid. Finish up the gully, before traversing right to the chains of Electric Warrior.

Start R of Vacancy. Bouldery blankness into vegetated crack.

Pumpy and scary. Wall to join flakes, then go 3m R and finish just L of D. Start 8m L of D.

Up JC to it's top roof, then traverse R past old manky fixed gear, cams, and a runout, to join Cecilia. It's worse to second than to lead. Start as for JC.

Start 3m R of Johns Corner at RB, face climb past two fixed hangers to reach the underclings at the roof, past another fixed hanger in the steepness. Lower off.

Really very good link up. Intransience's initial steep moves to a rest, then L and up as for Blind Ambition, to the chains.

(There is an alternative L finish from the last big horizontal up an obvious flake between the described finish and Cecilia, however despite the climbing being easier, gear is non-existent).

Committing traverse R gains ledge, then up R and up black wall. Start 10m R and down from Cecilia. Trad anchor on top.

Start 1m R of T. Up the R-leaning flakes, then the face.

Start 10m down R of Copyright in small gully. Up steep limestone-like wall past bolts, and R over bulge, then back left and up to an old wad of cord to lower off. There is also a few more FHs 2-3m R of this line - anyone know what this is?

Boulder into Revolution Rock using evil pockets.