Routes in Australia for selected grade

A really good alternative to the finishing slot on Milk Blood. Step right at the top of the initial crack and up the unlikely face.

Start as for No Room For Mistakes and hand traverse right into overhung line past piton.

A "convenient bundle of fun" taking in bits of a few other routes.

Start: Normally started as for "Wishful Thinking" but can also be started from the base of "Trampled Underfoot", below a fixed hange a few metres right of that climb.

From gully, pull onto wall and up vertical crack to major horizontal. Clip FH then hard moves up and right past another FH. Onwards past some natural gear and another bolt up higher.

Looks quite dramatic. The bolts are carrots and the first is pretty rusty.

Start 1 metre right of "A Touch Of The Vapours".

Awkward moves lead right past 2 bolts and a fixed wire.

Superb, intricate and sustained climbing. Originally done as two pitches but best done in a single pitch.

Start at the R-facing corner 2 metres right of "Grand Central".

Up the right-facing corner to ledge. From the ledge, delicately move over bulge. Clip bolt and zoom through a peg (natural pros available) to an easier ground. Stay R of the crack to avoid loose rock.

... a good crack too.

Bridge up the chimney right of Fever Pitch and pull onto the wall below a short crack. Steeply up crack to good holds. More hard moves lead up to and around flake, then continue up crack and face.

The overhanging, cracked arete up the gully from Lunatic and across gully north of "Flash Gordon".

Seam just right of Psychotic in hanging gully left of the arete of 'Lunatic' in gully. Continue up exciting face moves. A runner in 'Psychotic' protects crux.

Cut loose on big block about 2 metres right of 'The Last Resort'. Pass right end of small cave and go straight up to finish just left of arete.

Start: Start 2 metres left of 'Future Past'

Wonderful sustained and steep. A megaclassic.

Start about 10m right of 'Blue Hawaii' and 2m left of 'Yesterday'.

Follow an inverted staircase flake into a hanging gully. Step R and continue pass two FHs along the weakness to the overlap (peg). Crank through the steeper section on jugs to the double ring bolt anchor.

Provided the logical start to 'Lunatic' but it's now just a footnote as a link from 'Lunatic' into That's 'Fantastic'.

Follow Lunatic to the bolt. Continue for another 3 metres then step right and go up arete into That's Fantastic.

Avoids the crux of "Yesterday" via a fine alternative finish.

Start: as for "Yesterday".

Take Yesterday to bulge, traverse left along break then up the spectacular arete.

Start on the large LH jug, traverse the lip and break anti-clockwise.

Steep crack 4 metres right of 'Furphy' and left of gully.

Follow 'Tiptoe Corner' to crack left of Next Of Kin. Pull over bulge, heading left to break. Above small roof, climb straight up face.

Follow the chimney of 'Tiptoe Corner' for 15 metres and step onto the face at the first of two diagonal cracks. Up right to below flakes, then straight up these, exiting right over roof.

Start left of arch and move up and right to finish up grey streak to 'Bossy Mothers' anchor.

Up short seam 5 metres right of Wall Of The Afternoon Sun. Hard moves lead past a peg runner (if it's still there). Traverse left 2 metres and over bulge to flake. Up then left to first belay of WOTAS.

Start: Not a bad line but doesn't see much traffic.

Climbs the wall immediately R of Pumping. Two cruxy sections. The first few metres as for Watchtower Crack. Then step up and across onto the left wall to the obvious 'letterbox' slot (cam), tricky past bolt then up easy diagonal crack for a couple of body-lengths. Step L and finish directly up grey face past another bolt to a small ledge near the arete. Double rings.

Ascends the appealing 8m-wide wall which is left of Watchtower Crack and at right angles to the main slabs. P2&3 are both good. If you want a tougher outing, and/or a line which stays entirely on this slim face, start up Pumping and finish up Xenomorph for pitches of 24, 20, 23 and 26. The recent addition of Golden Handshake offers an even more consistent way to start, by continuing past the anchor of that route up the thin diagonal crack just R of the arete, to join Stumpy Tail part way up pitch 2.

1. 33m (12) Take Watchtower Crack (or Pumping, or Flamingo) to large ledge.

2. 20m (20) L up orange face past FH. Join diagonal crack to small ledge, then follow ramp to pedestal. Step up L onto short delicate face, then L to good belay cave on arete.

3. 10m (23) Up flake then over the L end of the roof. Traverse R past FH to big undercling move, then some steep moves to another good belay ledge on arete.

4. 50m (18) Step up R onto higher ledge, then the reachy lichenous face 3-4m L of Watchtower Crack (small-med cams). Slab easily up L until forced around the arete onto the Arachnus face for the last 20m.

Start up little overhang directly in front of LH tree. Up drifting L past 2 bolts then straight up past small cams and slightly right to finish at lower off. Its possible to traverse off into the moss after the first piece after the bolts, but it's better to finish direct. Two yellow Aliens or equivalent are very handy. Might be 23. Unless you're short, in which case it might be 26.

Link up. Start up Walking Simulator, hard move R over the bulge to join Amok and finish up it. Just toproped, while the climbing is good I'm not sure it's worth another bolt. Mostly did it for the name.

Wildy pumpy. Mostly cams, strangely most of them seem to be green camalot size... but save one for the topout. Chains to left or up and right.

Start: Start on left side of Amok wall behind two native pines.

Start as for Amok till the first break at about 6m (where it gets steep). Move R 1m and up 2m to a jug. A long move R off this gives a hidden pocket. Up past a bolt to the top and chains.

Tall creeps will do better. Has a carrot up high.

Start at right end of wall right of Amok, 2m L of corner. A few hard moves up the seam, then it's easy.

Originally graded 18 without grinning. Really nice rock and climbing. Despite being soloed it has gear, mostly small cams (not available in '83!). Chain on top.

Fantastic climbing, starting a metre left of 'Claw'. The shortcoming of the route is the heinously thin start that ignores the adjacent crack, and goes directly to the bolt at 3m (these moves are substantially harder than the rest of the route). A less brutal alternative (so long as you don't mind off-widths) is to do the start of 'Claw'; this makes the route more consistent (grade 23 or so).

Regardless of how you choose to do the start, after reaching the bolt there is a leftwards traverse to gain the vertical seam, after which interesting moves on sculpted stone lead to the chains.

The name says it all.

Dramatic architecture. Some people find this sleazy and gross, some find it interesting and funky.. feeling lucky? Start 5m R of the conifer.

A good warm-up for the steep stuff. This used to start beneath the "Beware of this Block" block and undercling it (!), but start to the right instead.

A better and more powerful finish. From upper R-facing corner, move up and R to reach R-trending flakes, which are followed to the top.

Start just left of overhang, 4m R of Practical Cats. Up past bolt to short crack then horizontal break, being careful not to fall off getting to crack. Continue up wall slightly left past big pockets and back up rightish to top. Finish at Rap anchor. A #5 cam is not needed as stated in the latest guide, in fact there is nowhere to put it.

A fun little roof. The 'Pilot Error' of Kitten Wall. In a little cave below 'Cadence'

A sustained and technical traverse under the ceiling, starting from the lefthand end of the wall. Can be approached via 'Cadence' as well.

Start: Start at the blocky corner marking the left end of the smooth orange wall.

1. 20m (22) Up corner to roof and traverse right with increasing difficulty to a small stance.

2. 35m (23) Continue right with even greater difficulty to obvious break in roof. Over and up to slings or easily to rap anchor above Celluloid heroes.

Lovely slab leads to awkward roof.

Bolt is rusty and rock looks loose in roof.

Start: Start 3 metres right of the starting corner of Tunnel Of Corgis.

Climb directly to flake on Stranger's Eliminate. Boldly up grey streak to ledge on 'Celluloid Heroes'. Up to roof then a reachy move leads to juggy flakes.

Start: Start 1 metre right of Stranger's Eliminate on face.

Technical climbing on perfect rock. Start 5m left of Bad Cheques, just right of 'My Soul To Keep'. Up past three bolts to join Stranger's Eliminate at it's bolt. Let me know what you think of the grade and stars. I'm bad at grading.

Well named. The reachy start requires creativity to protect the crux above an awful landing (the block). Great climbing, with adequate protection above the small horizontal leads to the chain on Strangers Eliminate.

It is possible to place a piece in a small pocket at the start, some people consider it marginal. Graded to take into account the seriousness.

A Link of Bad Checks into Tjuringa. Climb most Bad Checks till level with the flack on Tjuringa traverse right and slightly down to the flake and then finish up as for Tjuringa. Double ropes recommend

This is now considered a variant first pitch to 'Common Knowledge' but it originally had a hard (grade 25), second pitch which joined 'Common Knowledge' higher up. Tha hard section of that pitch is now the start of 'Lats Have Feelings Too'. Varied climbing up to the notch, then follow the right trending overlap and surmount it - then straight up to CK belay.

A great 2 pitch outing, though doing the entire route in one pitch is recommended. The dead tree has long since disappeared, so now you have to climb the wall to get off the ground! Double bolts now reside over the top, just below the summit block on its right side.

Start just right of Hi Mum! at bolt-protected wall.

1. 20m (23) Up wall past bolt and through right-leading line to ledge. Traverse left into right-hand flake and follow this until able to climb wall to semi-hanging belay below roof. Make sure the anchor can withstand an upwards force!

2. 15m (24) Up right-curving flake, back left to small overlap. Up headwall a few moves then traverse right, demanding with plenty of exposure, for a few metres then go up to anchor (30 metre rappel)

Right of In Lieu is an arete, and this route ascends the flake a metre right of that arete.

Up In Lieu to the ledge, then work out how to establish yourself on the flake. After the flake, go up the bulging wall above.

Starts off the ledge up and right of Perfect Stranger. Fingery moves past the bolt leads to good horizontals, before committing moves lead to the beckoning flake. Finish up In Lieu.

Start as for Bugalugs just right of Bolero through pockets to letterbox then straight up the wall with good protection in horizontals.

Up through pockets right of Bolero then move right and climb shallow orange corner to rooflet.

An attractive but serious lead.

Face immediately left of the arete.

Right arete of the campsite face.

Harder and bolder than the original.

Start: Start 2 metres right of "Follow Your Nose".

Some bouldery moves. There's a good plunge if you miss the final lunge.

Start: Start just right of "Henry Bolte"

Line of bolts to a lower-off right of "Barbed". Feel like it climbs a bit contrived by where the bolt placements are, but it's a fun little warm up for the main events up the hill. A cam is good for the top if you scare easily

Up for 2 metres then traverse right to pockets and up brushed wall to ledge. Rap as for "Gurtle Tier".

Start: Start 3 metres right of "Barbed" at a short, steep flake.

Cautiously up the grey pitted face trending R to join School for Scandal.

Maybe 20m below Barbed and 10m up from the Clown a doglegged thin crack doesn't reach the ground. Up seam in grey slab until desperately thin moves gain crack. Rap anchor. Gear is rather sketchy.

A direct on Rosshalde. Up the slippery seam past 2 bolts, follow Rosshalde to the roof and then R and up past another 2 bolts. Take lots of long slings or double ropes. After the first 2 bolts there are good small wires where Rosshalde traverses in but they are hard to see, and after rain the placement sometimes fills up with sand - a nut key may be handy to clean it out as they are pretty crucial. Might be 23.

The most attractive climb here. The start requires some small micro cams to protect adequately. If you're not confident at the grade it is recommended to rap in to pre-place or double check the first bits of gear. It is a good idea to anchor your belayer until a few pieces are placed as the consequences of a fall are very serious.

Start below vertical seam that crosses a diagonal line (Mysteries) a few metres up. Traverse R to single bolt, up past desperate crux then easier ground. Lower offs at top.

The diagonal crack leading left into 'Rosshalde' is slick and fiddly to protect but good fun higher up.

1. 15m (23) Take the diagonal crack into 'Rosshalde' and belay under the roof.

2. 20m (21) Up to roof, traverse out right to Model Phantom and up steep face.

Nice rock and good climbing but it's not worth doing as the other routes are far more logical lines. Start up 'Mysteries' diagonal, when you reach 'Blue Eyed and Blond' follow it up and right, then keep traversing right. Up higher go right and left a few more times to ensure you've got the most out of the wall, then traverse with your hands on the top and downclimb Rosshalde.

Orange arête right of Navity past 2 fixed hangers then continue direct up overhung arête on trad to finish at anchors on NDS. Vital #5 wire after 2nd bolt.

A better direct.

Go straight up from start of Dr Paul.

A scary direct start to Golden Echo. Looks worthless but in fact has a fascinating crux section.

Line in between Sounds Like and Kachoong, start directly below where Kachoong is typically started, easiest to rap in from the bolts that get you to the photographer spot. Directly up the orange wall merging with Golden Echo at the left hand end of the Kachoong roof. The wall takes small medium cams, RP's and small wires. Make sure you build a good nest of gear about 4 meters before the roof, then make thin moves to the roof. Bigger gear required from the roof to the top, 0.5 to 3 Camalot.

Poorly protected start. Douglas doesn't mind at all if someone puts 2 bolts in the start.

Start: Start about 2m R of 'Kachoong'.

Very good and very strenuous.

Won't make many "best of" lists but the climbing is surprisingly good. Aside from the off chance of toppling 40m down the gully, it's more like a highball boulder problem.

Start up Cellular Destruction, but instead of traversing right, continue up the steep overhanging crack to top out 3m left of the finish of Cellular Destruction.

From the big chalked plate at the top of the gully, move up to disappointing holds from where key gear needs to be placed, then right and up to hard (or is it ?) top-out.

Only 22 if top roped or gear is in place already

Climbs the inverted staircase just left of "A Taste of Honey" and is a superb companion route to it. Dave Jones used to solo this regularly as a warm up for the harder routes in this gully

Starts at a heavily chalked ledge low in the gully. Traverse R about 4 metres to a fixed wire before heading up on flat holds to the large break of Belly Flop. Traverse R to just before the arete, then up to the next break just below the first bolt of "You're Terminated" (virtually impossible to clip on this route). Now traverse with difficulty R around the arete to easier ground.

Finish up the lovely grade 10 headwall or backjump if you don't suffer from summit fever.

For gear, virtually every cam ever made could be placed at some point in this route, but a #0.3BD protects the crux on the arete nicely.

Linking Cavities into this can be combined for a 40m excursion from bottom to top and gives it mega pitch. Careful of rope drag - roller 'biners recommended. Or Start as for High Dive, but before the major horizontal, traverse into A Taste of Honey and along its hand traverse. At the end reach back onto the Belly Flop lip and mantle it just R of the arete up to High Dive. Continue up past previously dodgy death-block (now pinned & glued, staying about 1m R of the arete the entire way. Top out just R of the shared PCL / LITB / YT / CD finish.

Start just left of "A Taste of Honey Direct Start" at the bottom of the gully. Up overhanging crack (this was Kim Carrigan's "Cavities" from 1984) through bulge and off-width to a large grey and white ledge.

Continue more easily up corner to High Dive's initial traverse (thread runner) and step off left to finish. Given that the grade for the first half was 24, this may be quite solid at 23.

Originally described as "contrived", this route starts around the corner to the left of A Taste of Honey Direct Start.

Climb the flaring crack through an overhanging bulge into an offwidth and up to a grey and white ledge about 8m beneath the start of High Dive. A bit dirty, but also completely superseded by Dark Matter which incorporates all of this into a longer route.

This was actually the original aid line. Traverse right along the thin crack from the fixed peg.

Face between 'Broom Hilda' and Evelyn, through bulge.

A short route with shallow pockets. Three bolts to join Evelyn at about 2/3 height.

It'll be too late once you're at grips with this.

Start at crack under bolt, move up weakness to second bolt and through roof to fixed anchor.

Wandery but good climbing. Start at a pair of horizontal breaks 4 metres right of 'Temporary Imbalance'. Up to second horizontal, traverse R 4m, go up 2m then diagonally right (not straight up the seam) and up the concavity on pockets and blind holds. Diagonally left to finish. Chain on wall above topout.

The dominant line on the wall is sustained and has just enough small but good protection on the difficult start - which is the crux.

Rings above this also service Tangent.

Scary up the shallow corner and thin wall to join PB

Devious line starting as for 'Tangent'. Up through the bulge (crux) past RP's / small wires then R to seam just L of Tangent. Up and L to next break, then R and through roof.

Tangent direct. Reach problem 3 metres right of start of Tangent. Finish direct through the roof as for Angles Up.

'Cos it's next to "The Verge". Gets into some pretty sick territory. Worth doing if you're in the area.

The second pitch (an exciting roof) can also be climbed as a good second pitch for "The Verge".

1. Start up 'The Verge', but instead of stepping right into the scoop ,go straight up through the thin bulge passing a fixed wire on your left. , keep heading up easy orange face to bulge passing a FH to jugs out right and up to break, From there, power straight up the thin bouldery face and onto easy ground up to a high chain rap anchor.

2. The second pitch starts several meters to the right of the chain anchors, (trad anchor available) below an orange column with a FH. Up this to a white scoop under the roof FH. Up and out left along the pumpy lip traverse passing a FH. then over the lip and up to chain rap anchor. Rappel is 30 + m ! FA Robert Mudie & Muki Woods Alt

Start just up right of The Viragoes. Straight up and through thin crack in bulge, move right into large, guano-stained, V-scoop. Bridge up scoop to roof, past FH, swing left along lip and up short crack.

Another inspiring route name.

1. 15m (23) Middle of bulging wall right of Vandal's second pitch and just left of the final bit of 'Swallows and Amazons'.

2. 15m (23) Swing onto smooth left wall of 'Vandal', climbing midway between that climb and Puzzlin' Evidence.

Gear is fiddly, take slings for jugs. You can go L above the roof into a small corner, or just straight up. Start on left arete of gully, right of the start of Vandal. Trend right up face, through bulge, then left and up steep wall.

Start 2 metres right of Angry Penguins, up to small roof, up and right to jug on lip of another rooflet. Straight up.

Going straight up from the first roof is a variant top-roped from chains.

Black and brittle but still good. Take a thin sling for one placement. Start about halfway along the left wall of the gully, about 5 metres right of Angry Penguins. Up vague crack to a good break. Traverse 2 metres left to sickle flake then hard moves up left to jugs.

Ramp as for Opening then straight up groove to break. Step left and take thin crack through bulge right of Pick And Lose.

Right arete of Intrepid Gully. Now has a new glue-in U-bolt which requires stick-clipping. The Leasehold rap chains are just to your right on top.

The slightly overhanging little wall down and R of the entrance to Intrepid Gully has three ring-bolts. It's quite technical but very short so boulderers will probably just highball it at V2!

In fact it's a nearly blank wall. Pass the fixed hanger of High Kicks, and continue past a ringbolt, before getting to the honeycomb featured rock and a lower off.

Start just left of enormous conifer and just right of the rock step down and right from Hum. Technical moves lead to a delicate flake. The old carrot bolt, although poking out attractively, has been replaced. Finish at lower off where the nest of viper like rap slings once lurked ready to strike.

A harder variant on the second pitch of Morning Thunder. The first pitch appears a bit pointless, and the route is best done by starting up Morning Thunder.

1. 15m (-) Start as for Morning Thunder, then go left under roof to cave on left.

2. 20m (24) Go out over roof diagonally right to join Morning Thunder at prominent flake. Continue up Morning Thunder until it traverses right on the second pitch; instead go straight up then hard moves 2 metres left to gain a horizontal edge, then easily upwards.