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Amok Wall All Trad climbing 17 routes in cliff

17
AU
161820222426

Seasonality

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Description

A steep little orange wall high up the right side of the Watchtower faces. Approach up the Watchtower descent gully to about half height. The ledge below the wall goes right across left to the first belay of 'Panzer'. Unfortunately the top of the climbs tend to fade out into low-angled, mossy choss.

Emergency Location: Mount Arapiles, The Watchtower Faces Area

© (willmonks)

Access issues inherited from Arapiles

Cultural heritage closures now apply to some parts of Arapiles. This advice continues to evolve and may not be fully reflected in this website; refer to Parks Victoria for details applicable at the time of your visit. https://www.parks.vic.gov.au/-/media/project/pv/main/parks/documents/management-plans/mount-arapiles-tooan-state-park/mount-arapiles-tooan-state-park---aboriginal-cultural-heritage-protections---october-2020.pdf

Bird Nesting September-December Raptors usually nest on the following climbs in Spring : Cassandra, Eurydice, Harlequin Cracks, Revelations. Nesting usually finishes mid-December. There may or may not be signs in place at these times. Please keep 50m clear of these climbs if there appears to be nesting activity.

State Park - no dogs. No fires allowed Oct-Apr (inclusive).

Ethic inherited from Arapiles

Mount Arapiles is first and foremost a trad climbing area. The few sport climbs tend to be in the higher grades where no natural pro is available.

Bolting, particularly retro-bolting, is discouraged and should only be undertaken after extensive consultation with the local climbers, first ascensionists, etc. Inappropriately placed bolts have been chopped.

Do not chip the rock.

Look after the park.

  • Stick to the paths.

  • Don't disturb the wildlife.

  • Routes near peregrine falcon nesting sites are closed in the spring.

  • Minimise the impact of your camping (fuel stoves not fires, take your rubbish with you, etc).

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Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)

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1
21 Maginot Line Trad 30m

Faint groove on left side of white streak left of Amok. Hard start and hard bulge at half-height. Absolutely covered in moss these days.

FA: Ed Neve & Keith Lockwood, 1993

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2
22 X Under Control Trad 30m

Steep start left of Walking Simulator to flake and surprising pockets. No gear on crux.

FA: Geoff Weigand (solo), 1985

3
23 ★ Walking Simulator Mixed trad 12m, 2

Start up little overhang directly in front of LH tree. Up drifting L past 2 bolts then straight up past small cams and slightly right to finish at lower off. Its possible to traverse off into the moss after the first piece after the bolts, but it's better to finish direct. Two yellow Aliens or equivalent are very handy. Might be 23. Unless you're short, in which case it might be 26.

FA: Douglas Hockly & Wendy Eden, 18 May 2016

4
23 ★★ Walking Amok Trad 15m

Link up. Start up Walking Simulator, hard move R over the bulge to join Amok and finish up it. Just toproped, while the climbing is good I'm not sure it's worth another bolt. Mostly did it for the name.

FA: Douglas Hockly & Wendy Eden, 28 May 2016

5
23 ★★ Amok Trad 15m

Wildy pumpy. Mostly cams, strangely most of them seem to be green camalot size... but save one for the topout. Chains to left or up and right.

Start: Start on left side of Amok wall behind two native pines.

FA: Mark Moorhead, Chris Shepherd & Roddy McKenzie, 1981

6
22 ★★ Running Amok Mixed trad 15m, 1

Where Amok heads left, head straight up past bolt. Much more friendly for short people than the original finish.

FA: Wendy Eden & Douglas Hockly, 21 May 2016

7
23 ★ Attractively Restrained Mixed trad 15m, 1

Start as for Amok till the first break at about 6m (where it gets steep). Move R 1m and up 2m to a jug. A long move R off this gives a hidden pocket. Up past a bolt to the top and chains.

FA: Douglas Hockly, Wendy Eden & adam demmert, 22 May 2016

8
24 Small Creeps Trad 30m

Tall creeps will do better. Has a carrot up high.

FA: Mark Moorhead, Lincoln & Chris Shepherd, 1983

9
26 ★★ Helter-Skelter Mixed trad 15m, 2

Line left of Able-bodied, Boulder over small roof as for that route to get gear in the obvious flake then head left on little pockets to thin break and gear. Straight up past 2 ring bolts. More gear and a tricky sequence getting established on the slab upper wall and then to anchor on right.

FFA: adam demmert & Will Monks, 28 May 2016

10
25 ★ Able-Bodied Mixed trad 30m, 1

Start below small roof 10 metres right of 'Small Creeps'. Surmount bulge and take short flake to bolt. Desperately left and up.

FA: Kim Carrigan, 1984

11
24 AB Ciege Trad 20m

Start at right end of wall right of Amok, 2m L of corner. A few hard moves up the seam, then it's easy.

FA: Louise Shepherd, Kim Carrigan & Evelyn Lees, 1981

12
20 ★ Meekly Unconcerned Trad 15m

Right leading diagonal crack, left of Ice is Nice. Step off block at diagonal crack and follow to under cling where you can step right to vertical crack, head up this and over small roof, to ledge. Some suspect looking rock, but nothing cam off after it was hauled on and kicked. You can rap off Ice is Nice

FFA: adam demmert, Wendy Eden & Douglas Hockly, 22 May 2016

FA: Wendy Eden, 22 May 2016

13
21 ★ Ice is Nice Trad 12m

'Only in drinks' - Lou's guide

Up overhanging corner 2 metres right of 'AB Ciege' to ledge, then move left and up vague orange corner.

FA: Craig Nottle, 1983

14
23 ★ Chuckle Chuckle Trad 20m

Originally graded 18 without grinning. Really nice rock and climbing. Despite being soloed it has gear, mostly small cams (not available in '83!). Chain on top.

FA: Mark Moorhead (solo), 1983

15
18 Crash Bang Wallop Trad 20m

Hard diagonal with tricky start 5 metres right of 'Chuckle Chuckle'.

FA: Mark Moorhead (solo), 1983

16
17 Armchair critic Trad 15m

10m along the ledge leading to Amok is an old callitris growing diagonally. Behind it are 2 cracks ending in a bulge. This is the left one.

FA: Wendy Eden & Douglas Hockly, 1 May 2016

17
16 ★ Guider not a climber Trad 15m

The right hand of the two cracks. Lovely finger locks over the top bulge.

FA: Wendy Eden & Douglas Hockly, 18 May 2016

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Selected Guidebooks more Hide

Arapiles, Selected Climbs

Author(s): Simon Mentz, Glenn Tempest

Date: 2016

ISBN: 9780987526427

This selected yet in depth guide, in its third edition in 2016, is a must for first timers or regulars to the "Pines". By Simon Mentz and Glenn Tempest. It features 1200 routes over 23 different areas as well as bouldering, history info on flora and fauna, plus heaps more.

Buy
ⓘ
Arapiles 444 Of The Best Climbing Guide

Author(s): Gordon Poultney, Simon Carter

Date: 2013

ISBN: 9780987087461

444 of the best routes on the best stone on earth? Yes Please! Who has time for all those other wondering pitches anyway when Gordon Poultney and Simon Carter have picked out the classics and printed it in a pocket size handy guide with string attachment. You'll take it on the multipitches, you'll take it to read in the toilets, you'll take it everywhere!

Buy
ⓘ
Sublimb Climbs

Author(s): Lindorff, Goding & Hodgson

Date: 2011

ISBN: 9780646529387

Get ready to fully experience the rock climbing scene in Victoria with Sublime Climbs, a comprehensive guidebook authored by Kevin Lindorff, Josef Goding, and Jarrod Hodgson. This full-color, 380-page book covers the best climbing locations in the region, including Mt Arapiles, Mt Buffalo, and the Grampians. It features descriptions of over 700 routes, topographic maps, and breathtaking images. Whether you're a seasoned pro or new to the sport, Sublime Climbs has everything you need to make the most of your climbing experience in Victoria and experience all of it's classic routes.

Buy
ⓘ

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23 ★★ Walking Amok
26 ★★ Helter-Skelter

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adam demmert on ★★ Helter-Skelter 26 - IMG_3712.jpg

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